Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: dema on November 30, 2005, 10:25:55 am
-
In the event that I opt for a plexi top to my control panel I thought I'd ask a few questions.
I'd want the plexi to be very thin, and I was wondering if 1/16" was too thin. I didn't even want to use the stuff, but I have a rotating control panel and the sides of the cp are going to be brushing up against the cabinet sides and I want to ensure a corner of the artwork doesn't get snagged or anything. I currently have 3/32" scraps of plexi, but I was thinking of getting 1/16" and keeping the clearance as low as possible.
Secondly, I know people talk about the difficulty of cutting acryllic and its tendency to crack around the holes. Will that still be the case if it's such a thin piece of plexi? I was thinking I could go with a router to do the button holes, since I figure the router makes the cuts quick and easy enough to where it won't crack if it's sandwiched in between a couple pieces of wood.
Thanks for your help.
-
I had no problems with using a standard spade drill bit with my Lexan, and then beveling the edges with a router for a smooth finish. But, the thickness was 3/32", so you might run into some problems with the smaller thickness.
I did do a few of the holes with the router itself, simply because my bit was sharper and it went much faster. Using the spade bit, I did keep the Lexan between two peices of wood.
-
My advice would be to try it out with a small piece. Drilling through plexi isn't bad as long as you get the hang of it first. I found that drilling with a spade bit at very high speeds with a very small amount of downward pressure worked best as the drill bit tended to melt through the plastic instead of cutting or cracking it. Once you make the straight cuts to the plexi to shape into your CP, save the extra scraps for making practice holes prior to drilling your real button holes.
-
Don't forget the difference between lexan and plexiglass.
Lexan bends.
Plexi shatters.
-
Good point. Still, I really only had one piece of Lexan crack on me--even with drilling and cutting in near-freezing temperatures.
-
I've read up a lot on the advantages and disadvantages of both, and I know there's a trade-off. I just wasn't sure if one was more preferable than the other when you're working with such a thin piece (1/16"). I'm guessing a router will work just fine with both, since my prior experiences trimming thicker plexi edges with my router worked out well.
-
Plexiglass (Acrylic) Cracks easily but hold up to scratching better. Should not be a problem if using a router and sandwich templates to form. The thinner it is, the easier it is to crack. Scratch "resistant" coatings are available. If you are worried about the finished product being worked or getting bent in the future, use Polycarbonate.
Lexan (Polycarbonate) Almost impossible to crack, shape with common woodworking tools. Much easier to scratch, but you can get coatings that are "scratch resistant". Much more expensive than Acrylic, but much more forgiving for the heavy handed fabricator.