Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Silverwind on January 27, 2003, 07:57:03 pm
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I was browsing http://www.dameon.net/BBBB/parts.html#tbs and he has a few trackball parts... is there an easy way to build your own from these parts?
IE TB Kit, housing, ball, etc?
Or is ebay the way to go?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3203855769&category=13718
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3203856563&category=13718
with one of these ebay trackballs... if they are used.. they might need to have parts replaced... how hard are these to "restore" back to good working order.. and is there ever an instance of a trackball being too far gone to fix?
I don't mind replacing the low cost parts.... which parts of the TB are the expensive ones I should look out for? Thanks :)
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To get most trackballs working all you need its
1) trackball shell, that's what I started with, a happ shell from ebay.
2)most likely new rollers and optics, get those from www.therealbobroberts.com for happs
3) an interface like the optipac.
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don't forget the bearings. used bearings are often rusted and don't spin that well. :(
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with one of these ebay trackballs... if they are used.. they might need to have parts replaced... how hard are these to "restore" back to good working order.. and is there ever an instance of a trackball being too far gone to fix?
Depends on the condition they are in and how good you are at fixing them. Nothing is to far gone to fix, at some point it will be cheaper to buy a new one though.
I don't mind replacing the low cost parts.... which parts of the TB are the expensive ones I should look out for? Thanks :)
Depends on the trackball, usually its not cost so much as finding the right parts. A lot of the parts are interchangeable or similar enough other components are hard to find.
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with one of these ebay trackballs... if they are used.. they might need to have parts replaced... how hard are these to "restore" back to good working order.. and is there ever an instance of a trackball being too far gone to fix?
Depends on the condition they are in and how good you are at fixing them. Nothing is to far gone to fix, at some point it will be cheaper to buy a new one though.
I don't mind replacing the low cost parts.... which parts of the TB are the expensive ones I should look out for? Thanks :)
Depends on the trackball, usually its not cost so much as finding the right parts. A lot of the parts are interchangeable or similar enough other components are hard to find.
Did either of those ebay auctions look decent? Eventually I would like two trackballs to play two player trackball games.. like rampart/marble madness
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Did either of those ebay auctions look decent? Eventually I would like two trackballs to play two player trackball games.. like rampart/marble madness
They look decent to me, assuming the pictures are of the actual trackballs. Other problem is an E-bay auction that is $5.00 today may close at $75.00 in 3 days.
Another option (that I plan to use) is www.wicothesource.com sells new 2-1/4-inch TB's for $25 and new 3-inch for $50.
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Did either of those ebay auctions look decent? Eventually I would like two trackballs to play two player trackball games.. like rampart/marble madness
They look decent to me, assuming the pictures are of the actual trackballs. Other problem is an E-bay auction that is $5.00 today may close at $75.00 in 3 days.
Another option (that I plan to use) is www.wicothesource.com sells new 2-1/4-inch TB's for $25 and new 3-inch for $50.
Yeah.. It could end at any amount by auction end... especially if there are several days left..
How do the wico trackballs compare to the happ in quality?
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Did either of those ebay auctions look decent? Eventually I would like two trackballs to play two player trackball games.. like rampart/marble madness
They look decent to me, assuming the pictures are of the actual trackballs. Other problem is an E-bay auction that is $5.00 today may close at $75.00 in 3 days.
Another option (that I plan to use) is www.wicothesource.com sells new 2-1/4-inch TB's for $25 and new 3-inch for $50.
Yeah.. It could end at any amount by auction end... especially if there are several days left..
How do the wico trackballs compare to the happ in quality?
Wico are actually made by Suzo, now. Andy Warne (I-PAC) had very good things to say about them. I think Urebel has used them but I could be wrong. Do a search on the msg boards. They've been discussed before.
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http://www.wicothesource.com/new2/pages/page89.htm
on the 2 1/4, what is the difference of the high/low models?
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http://www.wicothesource.com/new2/pages/page89.htm
on the 2 1/4, what is the difference of the high/low models?
Active Hi and Active Lo - makes a difference how you connect it to the interface. Opti-pac can work either way, but you would have to change a jumper if say your T-ball was Active Hi and Spinner was Active Lo, I forget which one was better. Either OSCAR, Sir Poonga, Boba, or Urebel should know. You might want to ask in a new thread
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http://www.wicothesource.com/new2/pages/page89.htm
on the 2 1/4, what is the difference of the high/low models?
Active Hi and Active Lo - makes a difference how you connect it to the interface. Opti-pac can work either way, but you would have to change a jumper if say your T-ball was Active Hi and Spinner was Active Lo, I forget which one was better. Either OSCAR, Sir Poonga, Boba, or Urebel should know. You might want to ask in a new thread
Thanks for the reply!
Now regarding 2 1/4" & 3" which is commonly preferred... 3" because it is larger and easier to get a handle on? I'm thinking 2 1/4" right now just because they are half the price.. and will take less room.. i'm not hardcore on a lot of trackball games (at least not yet) so i'm not sure if it would be worth it...
also I like the idea of being able to plop a billiard ball in place of the 2 1/4" trackball... I could put the 1 & 2 billiard balls in there and I would have the first and second player trackballs labeled ;)
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Depends on you, the 3" ball is commonly preferred for golfing and bowling games and other games where you really need to put some torque on the ball. The 2 1/4" is preferred by centiped afficionados among others for its authenticity.
You also need to consider cost and control panel space. If your not sure then you'll want the 3".
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Depends on you, the 3" ball is commonly preferred for golfing and bowling games and other games where you really need to put some torque on the ball. The 2 1/4" is preferred by centiped afficionados among others for its authenticity.
You also need to consider cost and control panel space. If your not sure then you'll want the 3".
Sounds good... I will probably go with a 2 1/4" then..
is it difficult to play golf/bowling on these?? Or possible, but just easier on the 3".
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Sounds good... I will probably go with a 2 1/4" then..
is it difficult to play golf/bowling on these?? Or possible, but just easier on the 3".
I feel like I'm typing to myself. Didn't you read my post?
You will not be happy playing golf/bowling on the 2 1/4". Thats my opinion, you asked for it, I gave it.
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Sounds good... I will probably go with a 2 1/4" then..
is it difficult to play golf/bowling on these?? Or possible, but just easier on the 3".
I feel like I'm typing to myself. Didn't you read my post?
You will not be happy playing golf/bowling on the 2 1/4". Thats my opinion, you asked for it, I gave it.
you just said it was preferred to use 3" not impractical to use 2 1/4"
now how about something like marble madness.. does that require 3"?
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now how about something like marble madness.. does that require 3"?
It doesn't require 3" as you could play with a joystick if you really wanted to but you will be much happier with the 3" one.
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http://www.wicothesource.com/new2/pages/page89.htm
on the 2 1/4, what is the difference of the high/low models?
Go with Active Hi's if you have the choice as they are more flexible in what you can use for interfaces. The Hagstrom encoders, as well as mouse hacks, expect to see "sourced" optics, meaning the optics are supplied 5mA through the use of 1k ohm resistors. Active Lo optic boards sink current to ground (shown in Wico's diagram), and thus won't work with Hagstrom encoders or most mice.
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now how about something like marble madness.. does that require 3"?
It doesn't require 3" as you could play with a joystick if you really wanted to but you will be much happier with the 3" one.
Hmm... you mentioned 2 1/4" is preferred for centipede for authenticity.. I guess that would mean a 3" would work just fine for centipede(just not authentic).. but a 2 1/4" wouldn't work quite as nice for golf/etc..
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http://www.wicothesource.com/new2/pages/page89.htm
on the 2 1/4, what is the difference of the high/low models?
Go with Active Hi's if you have the choice as they are more flexible in what you can use for interfaces. The Hagstrom encoders, as well as mouse hacks, expect to see "sourced" optics, meaning the optics are supplied 5mA through the use of 1k ohm resistors. Active Lo optic boards sink current to ground (shown in Wico's diagram), and thus won't work with Hagstrom encoders or most mice.
thanks for the information.. if it specifies i'll get the High model.. the 3" is unspecified (high/low).. do you think these are high or low? Is there a standard?
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I honestly don't know, I haven't had the opportunity to play with a Wico 3" yet. Give their sales department a call and see if they can help you out, they should be able to answer a technical question like that (or put you on hold until they ask an engineer!). ;)
A few people here have the 3" Wico's, u_rebelscum comes to mind, perhaps they will see this thread and have an answer for you.
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I honestly don't know, I haven't had the opportunity to play with a Wico 3" yet. Give their sales department a call and see if they can help you out, they should be able to answer a technical question like that (or put you on hold until they ask an engineer!). ;)
A few people here have the 3" Wico's, u_rebelscum comes to mind, perhaps they will see this thread and have an answer for you.
The wico 3" is an Active HI, just like betson and happ 3" trackballs. I'm still deciding which trackball I like best, but am leaning toward the happs. This is my take on all three, ATM
Happs (3" high-lip): Spins the longest, spins the loudest. Took at little bit longer than the others to break in (smooth out). Best lip if you are worried about pinching your skin between the ball and the case (least likely to happen). Smallest case. Location of rollers indicates better for games with more down (toward user) spin than up (away from user) spin (but I haven't noticed problems with golf/bowling games) and better able to do slanted control panels. "High lip" means the ball won't be sunk as much if mounted under a lexan top.
betson/imperial (3" non-PS/2): Biggest case only because it's looks like a football; if it didn't have those round diagonals, it would be exactly the same size as the wico. Second longest spin, but not much difference between third place. Case bracing and roller locations exactly like the wico. Location of rollers indicates better for games with more up (away from user) spin than down (toward user) spin (but I haven't noticed problems with marble madness or cabal) and better able to do non-slanted control panels. Has a "high lip" meaning the ball won't be sunk as much if mounted under a lexan top, like the happs.
wico (3" $50): Very much like the betson except: corners cut of straight instead of round, not high lip, mounting holes smaller. Other than those and losing to the betson in spin time by a small amount, very little difference AFAIT. Has a old school lip, meaning the ball won't mount under a lexan top very well.
All 3" are active high, all have the same location of mounting holes, all molex plug wiring is the same, all are arcade quality. I wired a molex female plug to an optipac, and can swap the balls with no problems. There is a small difference in in-game response that I can't discribe except that it's there, but not noticable unless I just swapped trackballs.