Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Barkuti on November 24, 2005, 06:33:37 pm
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Some "lighted" one for a quick question ;D . I would like to know if it's possible to correctly install a 10 mm LED (a bare led with legs) onto a 10 mm wedgebase lampholder; the bare led, not a T10 led assembly. For "correctly" I understand that the LED must stick in its place, and should be able to get power through the lampholder's terminals.
Is this an easy procedure?
Cheers
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Sounds like it might work mechanically. The only way to find out is by getting one and fudging it.
Also unless the LED has an integral resistor you would need to have a resistor either on the quickconnector or in the lead to the supply voltage.
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Next week I'll have my illuminated pushbuttons, I'll be able to take a look at the lampholders then. If the terminals make a good fit, nice. If not, then I'll have a lot of work soldering the LEDs' legs. Touch wood!
I'm going to power up around 32 LEDs, 3.2-3.4 V 20 mA rated. Most probably through a wall-wart rated for 6 V and 2100 mAh. Good enough for wiring in serial connected pairs, as it will deliver around 6.4 V for 320 mAh (16 pairs at 20 mAh) total estimated load. Or I can plug the wall-wart into the USB hub it was designed for, as it will go into the CP, and take the regulated ~5 V. In that case the LEDs will need a 90 Ohm resistor in series. Less efficient approach but more stable voltage. What would you choose? ???
Cheers
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I would probably use the wall wart rather than the USB port. Some USB ports have fuses on the 5V line to stop excessive current drain.
If you are using a PC then take the 5V or 12V from the a molex connector from the PSU, making sure the PSU can handle the extra current.
On a side note its always preferable to have a resistor in series with the LED's even if the voltage matches in multiples. Inserting a 10ohm resistor or similar will help limit the current should a LED fail or go short.