Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: thndrckn on November 23, 2005, 08:36:47 am
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Has any one done this? I getting ready to build a UAII cab, and I did not want a frankenpanel so I want to do a modular one, I have searched and looked at exapmles but unless i am missing something it seems no one has done one on this cab. Any suggestions on where to start would be great.
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No one has any suggestions? anything could help.....
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Has any one done this? I getting ready to build a UAII cab, and I did not want a frankenpanel so I want to do a modular one, I have searched and looked at exapmles but unless i am missing something it seems no one has done one on this cab. Any suggestions on where to start would be great.
Hi there,
I have modular panels in my cab but I have no idea what a UAII is. Do you have some pictures? There are a few different methods for doing modular controls depending on whos project you look at. I used rack rails and blank rack panels and I am very happy with my choice.
hth,
~telengard
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UAII is Ultimate Arcade II - See link for pictures/plans
http://www.mameroom.com/arcadecabinets.asp
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A friend of mine modularized a cabinet that was in this "style". He basically used my design (panels that insert over rails with dowels in them) but made longer panels to fit into the larger profile.
Check my web site in the signature section for some good ideas.
Doc-
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My UAII cabinet has/had a detachable control panel (the cabinet is in pieces right now after a moving mishap).
The control panel was one separate unit. The base is a wooden open top box, the controls are in a board that goes on top and is connected to the box by a hinge.
It connects as follows:
(http://www.gerety.net/quickanddirty.jpg)
There are 4 l brackets (red on the diagram) on the inside of the cabinet. 2 on each side, spaced equally front and back. Where are corresponding holes drilled in the bottom of the control panel box. I put the CP "box" onto the cabinet, Open the hinged top, and put 4 bolts through the holes in the bottom of the box, which in turn go through the holes in the l brackets. I then secure it with wingnuts from underneath, then put in the keyboard drawer. It holds TIGHT, and removes as quickly as you can remove 4 wingnuts. (Read: 30 seconds, maybe.)
The pictures below show the hinged control panel, and the bottom picture shows the wingnuts on the bottom of the panel.
(http://arcadia.gerety.net/images/cabinet004.jpg)
(http://arcadia.gerety.net/images/cabinet008.jpg)
In the bottom picture you can see 3 wires, a Grey wire, and 2 white wires coming down from the control panel. These are 2 DB25s and one DB15 (2 parallel, one monitor cable) that I used for all of the controls.
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A friend of mine modularized a cabinet that was in this "style".
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Take a look here:
http://www.beersmith.com/mame/panel_mounting.htm
The panels actually lock in place naturally under the bezel and over the dowels, but in addition I have cabinet clasps on the joystick panels that help to add a little more friction against lifting during heavy play.
It works quite well - people who have played it are amazed how well it locks in place.
Doc-