Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: angryadmin on October 30, 2005, 10:33:07 pm
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http://www.happcontrols.com/monitors/49049300.htm
If not which should I use?? The original has some bad screen burn in.
NH
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Yes, it will work.
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It'll work, but, it wont just bolt up into a Pac-Man, you'll either have to mount this monitor in the old frame, or modify the cabinet to mount this frame.
The latter option isn't very good, you should'nt be hacking up classic cabs, the former option is easy and doable (it was the only way I could fit my new Happ monitor in my Neo Geo gold cab), but voids your warranty. I didn't worry about that, I figure if it breaks I'll just ask Ken how to fix it..
Normal discharging/safety caveats apply to swapping the metal frames, though I managed to do it without disconnecting the tube from the chassis board.
Be aware that if you do swap frames, you might find, as I did, that the video and power inputs are in awkward spots. In my case the video input is now wayyy up near the 'front', partially under the neck. It's really awkward to get to when installed in the cab (also do to the cabs design). I basically have to reach my hand up and in and "feel around" for it. Don't do this with power on.
Another note I read on Happs is that mounting one of these monitors vertically may result in some color purity issues, which should be fixable by manually degaussing the thing. I don't think anyone specifically manufactures vertical monitors anymore.
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I used two lengths of L channel 1/8 steel as rails and drilled holes where needed, took about 10 min.
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This one might be better, since it's a universal mount, not shelf mount: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=45326.0 Only $4.45 more.
Also, would it not be possible for him to use the old frame and swap in the new tube & chassis?
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The universal and shelf mount at happs cost the same (at least they did when I bought mine). I actually bought the universal. The frame on that thing is fairly deep, as it sticks out about 2" past the neckboard to protect it. Unfortunately it made it about 2" too deep to fit in my Neo Geo.
I swapped frames no problem (like I said already). Had to drill a couple holes in the old frame's pan and get a couple nylon spacers from lowes to mount the chassis, but it was no big deal. The new chassis board was somewhat larger overall than the old one (old WG 7000), and it just fit with about an inch to spare, width-wise.
I was worried about the new location of the chassis, as now the onboard iso transformer was much closer to the tube, I was worried it'd mess with the picture, but it's not a problem at all.
Taking it out of the frame does void your warranty with Happs though. I guess if you were careful, and kept the new frame, you could swap it back and pretend like it never happened.