Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Matthew Fisher on October 07, 2005, 01:05:17 pm
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I have a Happ controls analog joystick on the way, but I will need to replace the 5K pots with 100k. Happ's wants over $25 a piece for its "s taper" (which I think means linear) 100K pots.(!) Do I have to go with these, or would any linear 100K pot (assuming it fits) work?
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Any linear POT that fits will work, but high quality POTs are better than low quality, and happs says theirs is high quality (not that I'd listen only to them) ;).
Other options include leaving the 5k POTs in and use an interface such as AKI, APAC, or others that can take 5k.
I think the "s taper" describes an S curve in a rotation vs resistence graph, but I'm only guessing.
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I have a Happ analog joystick with 5K pots. I used a DualStrike hack.
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I would stick with the 5k pots and interface as u_rebel says. I have found in the past 5k pots work best.
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I would gladly hack a DualStrike, but my only problem with the hacks, A-pac, etc., is that I can't use USB (at least I think I can't because I'm stuck with DOS for now). Did the DualStrike ever have a gameport version? I couldn't Google one, so I'm assuming no...
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I would gladly hack a DualStrike, but my only problem with the hacks, A-pac, etc., is that I can't use USB (at least I think I can't because I'm stuck with DOS for now). Did the DualStrike ever have a gameport version? I couldn't Google one, so I'm assuming no...
I'm not sure...but sounds like you are stuck with the gameport. Still, go for some 100k pots and you should be fine - I would probably avoid Happ since they are so expensive...worse case with a cheaper pot is that it'll wear out quicker.
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btw, there are some real differences in quality. Some will break apart right away. I believe all pots are rated in resistance range, throw length and number of turns before they die (other then the physical ones). some of the cheaper ones aren't ment to be used 100k times + but maybe 1000 times (for a dial used for volume lets say). Those will not make it.
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The "S taper" makes it so that the stick has to move significantly from center before a movement reading will be seen.
On a linear pot, any movement from center will result in a change in resistance, and thus movement.
On the "S taper" ones the center has a dead spot, where you can move the stick a bit without changing the resistance on the pots.
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The "S taper" makes it so that the stick has to move significantly from center before a movement reading will be seen.
That's very interesting to know. I have a Happ analog stick which I've never been happy with - it would probably benefit from the S-taper ones but their 3x as expensive as the standard ones.
I presume these would also work well in steering wheels since a bit of deadzone would be a good thing.
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Edited to reduce confusion.
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You can just override the joystick via software, using the analog dead zone adjustment.
How do you do that?
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Sooo, what I'm getting here is that IF I could find linear pots of the same size and same quality as the Happ's, I'd be OK.
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P.S. I think you can set dead zone in the analog controls tab menu, although I don't know if it's called that. I also think you can set it directly in MAME32 in properties. I could be wrong about this, though...
There isn't a deadzone setting in the tab menu (Analog Controls), just digital speed, autocenter speed, reverse and sensitivity.
I know there is the a2d_deadzone in mame.ini, but this is analog to digital deadzone so doesn't apply to analog games.
I've never seen a deadzone setting on a system level but I'd love to hear if it is there...
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Oops.
It's Unreal Tournament that has the deadzone adjustments in it, not MAME.
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I've never seen a deadzone setting on a system level but I'd love to hear if it is there...
It depends. ;)
The deadzone could be from:
- the hardware (such as the 'S' taper POTs),
- the driver (my gravis Xterminator digital pro driver has it, but it doesn't use the normal control panel game controller window),
- the app (through directX),
- "poor" programming of other apps that apply/change a deadzone, but then don't return to default on exit (reboot removes it).
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One last question (I'm trying like hell not to have to drop $50 on those Happ pots! :'(). Resistors in series are additive, so if I put a 47.5k resistor (or equivalent resistors) in line before the 5V hits the pot, my voltage should be centered (2.5V goes out when the stick is centered) but the attanuation range will be knocked down by 20X, I think. Would I be able to calibrate the stick with this reduced range? Please don't flame me too badly if I've said something stupid. I'm kinda just thinking out loud here...