Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: tecmo on January 13, 2003, 05:16:37 pm
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Hi all,
Here's a question from a newbie to the MAME world. I'm currently knee deep in my first MAME project and am exploring the possibilities of having two conrol panels. Unfortunately my electrical skills (slim and none) are preventing me from actually desiging a panel to fit everything, and my current budget prevents a purchase of some of the larger prebuilt control panels. So, I have opted for the x-arcade for the joystick games, and will eventually build a second panel for trackball games with the PS/2 interface. I'm searching for ideas on how to easily but securely swap these panels out. Once completed the cabinet is sure to take some serious abuse with my buddies getting frustrated as I destroy them in all the classics! Any ideas or experience on this would be greatly appreciated!
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You can build swappable control panels. I used a parallel port extension cable for mine. This allows me to leave the expensive interface mounted in the cab and only swap the panel that has the cheaper joysticks and buttons. Its also hot swappable since I never unplug the interface.
(http://www.hower.us\misc\IMG_7846.JPG)
With an x-arcade the interface is mounted in the control panel. You could probably move the interface or purchase additional interfaces for your control panels.
Another option would be to buy the x-arcade kit to build your own control panel. This way you could plan for swappability. If your going to do that though you might also want to consider the Ipac or the soon to be announced keywhiz.
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search through my site, you'll see I used the ipac with a db25 connector too. Otherwise everything else will be usb.
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I have swappable panels, but I went with molex connectors which are
IMO easier to wire. I don't have a steady enough hand to crimp the
small connectors or solder the solder cup DB connectors. I currently have 5 panels, all metal. I'm currently working on a new panel that is completely
modular using rack mount components. This should be very flexible
when it's finished.
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I have swappable panels, but I went with molex connectors which are
IMO easier to wire. I don't have a steady enough hand to crimp the
small connectors or solder the solder cup DB connectors. I currently have 5 panels, all metal. I'm currently working on a new panel that is completely
modular using rack mount components. This should be very flexible
when it's finished.
Are you talking about actually swapping the sticks and buttons out of the CP? I've seen this do before. Its pretty cool. Can you post pictures of what your doing?
If you cut an existing printer extension cable you don't have to worry about soldering. If you strip some extra length off the end and fold the wire a couple times crimping the quick connects is easy.One advantage to this is you can do a 2 player control panel on one plug.
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Unfortunately no picks of yet because I am still assimilating a design. Appreciate the ideas guys! Hopefully I can do this right the first time, but I doubt it.
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I designed mine swappable because I wanted to keep the lines of the original cabinet (space invaders deluxe), and didn't like the look of massive control panels. Also, some games, like Mortal Kombat 3, Defender, and Tron, just don't play well if they aren't laid out the same that they were in the arcade.
I used DB25 rs-232 jacks with the ipac and optipac mounted in the cabinet. If you use terminal blocks on the control panels it makes it a lot easier to deal with the DB25's tiny wires.
The hard one is going to be mounting the stun runner yoke -- that thing is big and heavy!!
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I used DB25 rs-232 jacks with the ipac and optipac mounted in the cabinet. If you use terminal blocks on the control panels it makes it a lot easier to deal with the DB25's tiny wires.
I second that! I used terminal blocks on my swappable panels too. It makes it easy to keep the wires organized, and if you need to swap a few wires around because you screwed up (like me ::)), it's a snap to do so.
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do you want to know about securing the panel on the cab ?? or the connections for each panel ??
To secure the panel to the cab, you can use "panel clamp" from Happs... they are really good.... expensive, but good...
The one I did... uses 4 clamps... and it stays with the cab TIGHT.... I tried to shake it as hard as I could (even rock the cab), but the panel is not moving a bit....
you'll need to cut same size wood for different panels...
just install the clamp on the cab, and clamp it to the hinge....
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but if you're asking about the wires connections... then the others have given a lot of good suggestions... printer cable, molex, db25.... I myself uses cat5 cables... (not ecactly simple.... but ok....)
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To secure the panel to the cab, you can use "panel clamp" from Happs... they are really good.... expensive, but good...
A couple other options I've seen mentioned:
Industrial Velcro
Window sash locks
Bob
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do you want to know about securing the panel on the cab ?? or the connections for each panel ??
To secure the panel to the cab, you can use "panel clamp" from Happs... they are really good.... expensive, but good...
The one I did... uses 4 clamps... and it stays with the cab TIGHT.... I tried to shake it as hard as I could (even rock the cab), but the panel is not moving a bit....
you'll need to cut same size wood for different panels...
just install the clamp on the cab, and clamp it to the hinge....
Have you seen the panel side of the clamp sold seperately? I was planning to try to bend some steel to make some of these.
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do you want to know about securing the panel on the cab ?? or the connections for each panel ??
To secure the panel to the cab, you can use "panel clamp" from Happs... they are really good.... expensive, but good...
The one I did... uses 4 clamps... and it stays with the cab TIGHT.... I tried to shake it as hard as I could (even rock the cab), but the panel is not moving a bit....
you'll need to cut same size wood for different panels...
just install the clamp on the cab, and clamp it to the hinge....
--------------------
but if you're asking about the wires connections... then the others have given a lot of good suggestions... printer cable, molex, db25.... I myself uses cat5 cables... (not ecactly simple.... but ok....)
(copy and paste link)
http://free.hostdepartment.com/s/SirPoonga/images/y_cab17.jpg
I hold it down just like a real arcade panel:) The latch in the center is from my double dragon cabinet.
The brass plates on the edges guide the cp into place. The cp does not move.
Put the CP on, use the brass guides, reach through coin door and clamp down. tada:)
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yeah... I was looking for that also.... (the panel side... which is basically just a L shape thing with 2 screw holes...)
couldn't really find them... and now its winter.... since I work in garage and its snowing / freezeing here in NYC... I didn't work on anything lately.... and didn't visit home depot either....
I'll post if I find any.... plz let me know if you have more info also...
thanks,
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do you want to know about securing the panel on the cab ?? or the connections for each panel ??
To secure the panel to the cab, you can use "panel clamp" from Happs... they are really good.... expensive, but good...
The one I did... uses 4 clamps... and it stays with the cab TIGHT.... I tried to shake it as hard as I could (even rock the cab), but the panel is not moving a bit....
you'll need to cut same size wood for different panels...
just install the clamp on the cab, and clamp it to the hinge....
Have you seen the panel side of the clamp sold seperately? I was planning to try to bend some steel to make some of these.
Hi 8bit, I had the same issue (had the bottoms of the clamps, but not the "L" with the little catch) and could not find a good hardware store replacement...
k & S amusements (http://ksfamilyamusements3.hypermart.net/cabparts.htm) where I got my free gutted cabinet, has used clamps for 5 beans (you could maybe get just the tops if he has some extra's laying around, I imagine) He's a fairly nice person to work with based upon my experience and some positive feedback in rgvac...
*shrug* are there any local vendors around your area that might have extra used crap that they'll let you sift through or sell you the clamps?
Bob roberts might sell em too
rampy
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I'm redesigning my panel with a removable center module. Right now, I have a 23" wide two-player, 4 button per player layout with a trackball and a spinner in the middle. I'm going to cut out a module bay in the center, and have removable modules for a trackball, a spinner (both connecting to serial), a 4-way stick (connecting to duplicates of the player 1 inputs), an analog stick (an old Thrustmaster Top Gun, through either the game port or a RumplePad hack), and eventually a Star Wars yoke and a 360 degree steering wheel.
The only problem is that the maximum size for the bay is about 4.5x6 inches. My trackball, spinner, and 4-way joy will fit here, but I'm not sure about the rest. In addition, there is a 1" setback from the front of the panel plus a 3/4" support, and I need a half-inch or so in the back of the bay for supports, so there's really not a lot of stuff that can extend below the surface of that bay...
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Have you seen the panel side of the clamp sold seperately? I was planning to try to bend some steel to make some of these.
Actually, that's exactly what I did. For my second panel, I used part of some old horizontal blinds (it was either that or a bracket for some old curtains). My dad had it in his shop. I think it was the piece that ran across the top of the blinds that held them in place.
It was about 6 feet long, and I just cut off a 3 inch piece or so, and cut the bottom part of the "C" off about half way and bent it up at an angle for the clamp to hook into. That's all I had to do because it was exactly the same size as a real panel bracket.
-------- <---- This part is screwed to the panel.
| |
|
|
| |
--------- <---- I cut this part about half way and bent it upward to receive the clamp.
Please forgive the crudity of this model. I didn't have time to draw it to scale. ;)
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I have swappable panels, but I went with molex connectors which are
IMO easier to wire. I don't have a steady enough hand to crimp the
small connectors or solder the solder cup DB connectors. I currently have 5 panels, all metal. I'm currently working on a new panel that is completely
modular using rack mount components. This should be very flexible
when it's finished.
Are you talking about actually swapping the sticks and buttons out of the CP? I've seen this do before. Its pretty cool. Can you post pictures of what your doing?
If you cut an existing printer extension cable you don't have to worry about soldering. If you strip some extra length off the end and fold the wire a couple times crimping the quick connects is easy.One advantage to this is you can do a 2 player control panel on one plug.
Yeah, that's what I'm doing. Just about any configuration will be possible. Centered single
trackball, dual trackballs, trackball to right with
'volcano' buttons, etc. I've bought tons of
different controls too to duplicate most of
my favorite games. :) Can't wait to
play 'Tapper', and other games with their original controls!!
I've seen it done once but it didn't look very sturdy.
I wanted something sturdy enough to play a rough
game of Robotron on and I think the parts I'm using
will work fine. As for pics, none yet, but I'm getting
close to completion and will post them as soon as
I'm done.
I guess I could use a cut printer cable but for some
reason I just find the Molex connectors easier to
work with.
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Yeah, that's what I'm doing. Just about any configuration will be possible. Centered single
trackball, dual trackballs, trackball to right with
'volcano' buttons, etc. I've bought tons of
different controls too to duplicate most of
my favorite games. :) Can't wait to
play 'Tapper', and other games with their original controls!!
I guess I could use a cut printer cable but for some
reason I just find the Molex connectors easier to
work with.
FYI- If you use a db25 type cable don't use a printer cable, it has to be a printer or serial [extension /b]cable.
Molex connectors is perfect for your application. The db25 option is nice for swappable panels because you only need one plug for the whole panel. You application is much more modular and the big plugs would get i in your way.
I assume your mounting the countrols to mounting plates. Whats holding the mounting plates down?
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Yeah, that's what I'm doing. Just about any configuration will be possible. Centered single
trackball, dual trackballs, trackball to right with
'volcano' buttons, etc. I've bought tons of
different controls too to duplicate most of
my favorite games. :) Can't wait to
play 'Tapper', and other games with their original controls!!
I guess I could use a cut printer cable but for some
reason I just find the Molex connectors easier to
work with.
FYI- If you use a db25 type cable don't use a printer cable, it has to be a printer or serial [extension /b]cable.
Molex connectors is perfect for your application. The db25 option is nice for swappable panels because you only need one plug for the whole panel. You application is much more modular and the big plugs would get i in your way.
I assume your mounting the countrols to mounting plates. Whats holding the mounting plates down?
Yeah, I meant DB25 cable, I have a bunch of these I use
to extend a 25 pin serial connection I've got. Real printer
cables are called something like Centronics IIRC.
Here's how it works. I have a metal control panel. I currently
use sheets of steel for swappable panels (this is all documented
on my web site). They are held down by screws/rivet nuts.
The downside to this is that steel is hard to drill holes in.
Each hole takes minutes to cut using a bi-metal hole saw.
Also the panels are quite large and hard to store.
My new panel is just another panel like the others, but it
has a very large rectangle cut out of the middle. I've mounted
standard computer rack rails along the top and bottom of this
opening. I can then use standard blanker panels (1U, 2U, 3U)
etc cut to the right length (8") to mount on the rails. These are either 1/8" or 1/16" thick aluminum which is much easier to cut. I don't know if this helps 'paint the picture' but I hope
to have my pics up soon. Right now I'm debating using the 1/8 or 1/16 panels. I have a couple of both and am trying them out
w/w-out plexi coverings etc. My big hold up was finding a tool
that could cut the standard 19" panels of varying widths down
to 8" with a very straight line. The tool I'm using is called a
'chop saw'.