The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: RetroACTIVE on September 26, 2005, 05:06:06 pm
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Completely modular using post and cam latching.
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questions...?
Why not in Project Announcements ?
;)
Cheers.
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Yes... this does belong in project announcements! I'm sorry for posting it in the wrong place. I got a little ahead of myself.
moderator...please move this post.
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BTW -- cabinet looks great ... kit or DIY ?
Cheers
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DIY..
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Looks very tidy. 4 player cab is it?
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Nice laminating job ... look forward to construction pics.
Also be good to see documentation DIY post and cam ... that would be useful to lots of people.
Nice work.
Cheers.
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I'm writing a doc now... plan on producing an entire DIY package
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yes... it will be a 4 player cab when I'm through...
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I like.
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more pics
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and the back...
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I am digging those castor wheels on the back. Dunno if that is original but it is a good idea.
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I'm a total hack.. I took ideas from different cabinets and basically built it around a common midway shape.
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I'm a total hack.. I took ideas from different cabinets and basically built it around a common midway shape.
There is nothing wrong with that. With so many before us it's becoming impossible to ever claim originality.
The main thing is your cab is looking sharp so stand proud. ;)
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yeah... that is pretty much what I did... I cant wait till its done....
btw I will be painting all the bare wood before I'm done...
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I am digging those castor wheels on the back. Dunno if that is original but it is a good idea.
Many "real" cabs have casters and grab handles on them. I'm able to move my Bally cab around by myself very easily. It's a great setup.
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Look ma... no bolts!
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WHERE DID YOU GET THAT SPEAKER GRILL MESH!?!?!?
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coolerguys.com
its 120mm fan grill material... I sandwiched it between the formica and wood.
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I am digging those castor wheels on the back. Dunno if that is original but it is a good idea.
Many "real" cabs have casters and grab handles on them. I'm able to move my Bally cab around by myself very easily. It's a great setup.
My Mortal Kombat is set up like this. Makes it much easier to move around.
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Franken-panel at its ugliest... somebody round up the lynch mob!
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Where'd you get your post/cam hardware? Do they give suggestions for how far apart to place them, and are you referring to using them throughout the entire cabinet to make it easy to disassemble?
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Yes I wanted to see if I could build a "kit" type cabinet which would allow me easy assembly and if needed disassembly.
I got my post and cam (aka knock down connectors ) from:
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?offerings_id=348
you'll find the technical documents there.
There are better ones like these Rafix type:
http://www.thermwood.com/shop/products.nsf/ItemMasterLookup/pHF-26312705?OpenDocument
I did not go with the Rafix brand because they require a bit more jigging because of the 2 bores per cam lock assembly.
However...The ---smurfette--- with the Blum connectors is you pretty much need to sandwich the whole thing together all at once, making sure each pin is aligned with each cam. The Rafix allow you to put each panel in at any time (ala SlikStik cabinet, if you have ever seen how those are constructed).
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Before I drill any holes....
I've decided on 4 player (see above pic) w/a pseudo-stargate form. Spinner is directly above the track ball, all other stuff is pretty standard not very original... but just looking for quick comments.
For those who don't like the all-in-one franken panel.. feel free to insult you won't hurt my feelings one bit.
either way... thoughts/ideas are appreciated.
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My suggestion on your control panel is to make all of your joysticks orient the same way. True up should be directly up toward the monitor. I had mine oriented the way you did at first (where the UP is relative to the positioning of the buttons), and got nothing but complaints from people playing it. So I redid it and now people seem to be happy. Just a suggestion.
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My suggestion on your control panel is to make all of your joysticks orient the same way. True up should be directly up toward the monitor. I had mine oriented the way you did at first (where the UP is relative to the positioning of the buttons), and got nothing but complaints from people playing it. So I redid it and now people seem to be happy. Just a suggestion.
good point... I had thought of that but originally dismissed it,
thank you
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more progress!
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and more...
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and more...
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more...
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...
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...
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...
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...
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...
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putting it back together...
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All that I have left to do now is to wire the control panel, hook up the marquee light and cut the plexi for the marquee. I totally underestimated the amount of work to be done.... for those who don't have a dedicated work-shop... I feel your pain.
Anyway, I am very happy with it and can't wait to get it running now.
:D
This forum has been invaluable to the process. I'm really impressed with everyone's work. Doing this has really left me with a great deal of appreciation for the amount of effort it takes to do it right. For those of you who create your own theme/artwork... totally jealous... If I could do one thing differently... it would be to at least create custom panel artwork. But for now I am very very pleased with mamemarquees.com prints and the "atomic" (Pixelhugger) theme.
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Very nice, I like the black laminate. Must of been a pain in the ass on those angled pieces to trim properly.
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Must of been a pain in the ass on those angled pieces to trim properly
Yes... I tried a few techniques.. heating it, using a miter saw to cut the proper angles... in the end overlapping the edges and using a file to trim it flush turned out to be the best approach.
I almost decided to paint the control panel base but was happy with the final product.
I'm waiting for 7/8" t-molding now to finish it.
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At first glance it looks like that CP has "huge tracts of land". Roomy. But when I look closer, I think it's because the buttons and control colours blend into the CPO.
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At first glance it looks like that CP has "huge tracts of land". Roomy.
Your right it does look vacant. The coloring on the picture is a bit off the first three buttons adjacent to the stick are actually purple and in real life don't blend all that much and looks fuller.
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VERY NICE
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Looking good. I love the CP layout design ;)
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I love the CP layout design
thanks.... its a total rip-off of the SlikStik quad with some "Williams" and flight stick tweaks.
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I had a similar idea when I did this one. It's really good for playing all the games.
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I had a similar idea when I did this one
Actually at some point I did come across your design... I liked it very much and thats why mine looks so much like yours as well!
Like I said before.... Total Hack I am! :laugh:
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I had a similar idea when I did this one
Actually at some point I did come across your design... I liked it very much and thats why mine looks so much like yours as well!
Like I said before.... Total Hack I am! :laugh:
That's the fun part of this hobby . . . you can see a bunch of cool ideas and take them to the next level. You've done a great job of putting together a very functional, elegant cabinet.
Can you show some more pics and describe how you mounted the power supply and cooling fan into the lower back panel.
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Can you show some more pics and describe how you mounted the power supply and cooling fan into the lower back panel.
Sure... I'll get some more pics! Tonight I am planning on starting the CP internal wiring.
For the power supply, I created an aluminum access panel at work (we have a cheesy machine shop for metal bending / stamping) and mounted it in a routed recess.
For the fan/fan filter I used threaded inserts mounted into the panel to accommodate the machine screws. And like the power panel, I routed out the material around/under the fan filter so that it would mount flush to the wood work. I also mounted the fan rotated 45 degrees so the screw inserts for the fan would not collide with the screw inserts for the filter... you can see a pic of that mounting technique above.
BTW: I hate my steel screws... I wanted black anodized instead but could not find them at the hardware store. I don't like visible screws... a pet peeve of mine.
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How did you template your trackball and joystick openings? Or did you just cut them by hand with a jigsaw?
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How did you template your trackball and joystick openings?
For the trackball: I used a straight edge to route the recess and hand cut the hole with a jigsaw.
For the joystick:
1. Marked the center point.
2. Used a "BIG" compass set to the correct radius (8 1/4" = 2 1/4" recess).
3. Drew the circle around the center point of the joystick.
4. Drilled a pilot (1/16") hole all the way through the panel at the center point.
5. Drew another circle on masonite board and cut it out using a jigsaw. Sanded it and cleaned up edge.
6. Clamped the masonite template on the panel aligning it with the circle previously drawn.
7. Routed out the recess.
8. Hand routed the underside for the joystick base.
9. Drilled the 1 1/8" hole for the stick
10. Oh yeah .. also did the t-nuts at some point.
BTW: thanks for the compliments.
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Duh.. for the analog joystick... I got a little full of myself on that last post...
Like the trackball... straight edge for the recess, hand cut hole with jigsaw... :-[
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More pics from various angles
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Front and back... I have just chucked the stuff in for now to get it out of the general living space of the room!... when I complete the internal wiring it will be cleaned up!
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Adding the AC power cord... using strain relief grommet.
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All done!
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Cooling fan filter removal and replacement.
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Internal fan mounting... machine screws in through the fan body and into threaded inserts in rear bottom panel
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Power switch and monitor kill switch...
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Those castors look proper handy! Where did you get them? My local store only has light duty ones or massive wheels.
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I know that happ controls sells similar ones. I got mine from partsexpress.com (262-278) ... 330lb capacity... I wanted a more rubberized wheel for in the home.
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BTW... the manufacturer of the wheels is Penn Fabrication... UK based!
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Cheers, found the wheels on their site. I'll email them for a UK distributor.
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Made some more progress... tied up cables and built all wiring harnesses for coin door, power switch, etc...
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Volume control, mounted to the base of the controller, cable set into routed channel. I opened the controller up and put 4 machine screws through the base that were long enough to go through the wood. I did not want to use tape...
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Here is a view of the coin door from the rear. As you can see I made two separate harnesses for lighting and credit switch.
The soft-start power switch was wired to the power panel, I cut the small fan (3 pin molex) connectors from the power source on the inside and used it to break out the 2 pin power and reset switch. I don't see a need for the reset.
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Ooohh romantic..!
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Its ALIVE!
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All the p360's are working and some of the buttons.
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Very nice cab. I love the look of the Midway cabs, and the handle/caster idea will hopefully end up in mine.
I wanted to ask you about your monitor. It appears to be an arcade monitor, is that correct? Or is it a decased TV (which I plan on doing). Either way, how was it mounting it, ie, did you have to make custom brackets or anything?
I guess while I'm at it, I'll ask another question. I love the cam lock idea for construction, but was unsure whether or not to pursue it due to durability. Is the stability of your cabinet pretty solid? How many times have you assembled/disassembled it?
And to echo some of the thoughts in this thread, I've been wanting to build a cabinet for last 6 years or so, but I plan on doing it shortly since I've settled down and own a house now. I've been reading these forums forever and have really honed in on a couple of cabinets that I plan on modelling mine after, including yours.
I love how much work these guys put into their cabs, and how willing they are to share their learnings. Not too many other hobbies can say that.
Again, very nice work.
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Thanks for the compliments!
I used a Betson arcade monitor and I purchased slikstik custom monitor brackets. I liked the simplicity of the slikstik cabinet so I built mine almost identical to theirs.
I've taken the beast apart more than 10 times now... it is really SOLID! It does not wobble and I was pleasantly surprised as how sturdy it ended up.
Yeah.. some of the cabs people have done are pretty fricken' amazing! I just wanted mine to not look homemade...
thanks again
good luck
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Finished up the CP...
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More CP innards...
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and the IPAC-4...
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Well folks... I am done... for now...
My daughter, step-daughter and step-son were playing this thing out from under my feet!
This has been one heck of an experience. Thanks to all for kind words and suggestions.
On the agenda:
- order a piece of glass for the monitor...
- clean up what mess I have left around the house...
- get my wife some flowers.... and anything else I can afford!.. to thank her for letting me be a kid again and temporarily destroying the downstairs and garage! This project has taken way more time and money than I thought it ever would. However, the results are worth it.
- when the dust settles... buy a pinball machine!
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Incredible job! I hope my eventual cabinet looks even 1/4 as good as yours does.
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Thanks unix!
I have just ordered some new lighting. I'm going to replace all of my 12v incandescent lamps with super bright leds. The coin door I could live with, however the trackball is dismal. I figured I'd give the incandescents a shot, but based upon what others have said/done, I was not expecting it to be fantastic... guess what.... it wasn't.
Here's to thinking I was done ! :D
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ok... I couldn't resist!
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When I saw the first coin pic, I was thinking "Damn! Dude mighta got a good deal on buttons, but why put ALL of 'em on his CP!"
;D
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not real creative... not a photog... just like shiny stuff... and a little full of myself right now...
;D
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Oh, we'll all be doing the same thing too.
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Any pics of the cam-and-post jigs you used?
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Any pics of the cam-and-post jigs you used?
Actually... it was pretty simple... I did not get any pics... >:( and I accidentally chucked my jig... I can't seem to find it anywhere... I made my own with the exception of the Jig-IT tool I got from rockler.com... you can see pics of the Jig-IT tool in my control panel images, it was invaluable for proper allignment and depth of the forsner bit (since I don't have a drill press).
Here is an excerpt from the paper I was writing on how to build my cabinet....
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Got my coin mechs to accept my BYOAC tokens last night.
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Here is a pic on how I marked all of the locations of the post / cams.
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Thank you for the pictures. A very simple, elegant solution to placing them, IMO.
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Great job on that cab! I hope you get a chance to finish that paper, I'd relly like to see it also.
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Thanks IG-88!
I hope to finsh the paper as well... I've got so much cr@p around the house from building this thing... once I clean up a bit, I can justify some more "me" time....
BTW: IG-88 sooo kicks Boba Fett's --I'm attempting to get by the auto-censor and should be beaten after I re-read the rules-- IMO...
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;D There is actually a short story written about IG-88 and how he came to be along with IG-88B,C,D and an IG-72! I just stumbled across it a few months ago. Kinda cool to find out some background on him/it
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You should change your post title! Your project looks immaculate, hype the thread up some more!
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You should change your post title! Your project looks immaculate, hype the thread up some more!
Thanks, that means a lot to me, as your Kong Cab is IMHO "immaculate" as well. I did not want to be to proud... all of the custom themed projects around here put me to shame...
However I am very proud of the fact that my cabinet does not look home-made at all... there is not hardly a gap or imperfection on any joint and it is rock solid... my goal was to home build a "kit" type and I achieved it.
I've cleaned it up, put it in place and will take some final parting shots to end the story...
Anyway... that's about it on the ego trip!
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I agree, your cabinet looks excellent.
The cam-post locking mechanism is excellent. I really badly wanted to build mine like this so that I could take it apart and move it up/down stairs. It looks like it's rather difficult to do however.
Congratulations tho, it looks excellent.
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A couple of final shots...
I wish I knew more about photography!
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Check PM for propositioning. :-*
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PM sent :o
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Hey, where'd you get those kewl tokens?
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Hey, where'd you get those kewl tokens?
Let me tell you something... they are kewl...
My kids are actually using them :o! I was shocked... I didn't think they would appreciate them, much less use them....
Its easy to get so used to pushing the credit button.... I didn't think the average 13-14 year old would expend the energy to plunk a token in the coin slot... but THEY DID and it was very natural for them....
8)
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Ok... Now that the machine has been getting some play time... I've realized I made (at least) one critical design flaw with the control panel (see pic)...
the spinner placement...
I was showing GT to a friend and told him before we stared ... be carefull this thing isn't GT friendly... on the first drive WHAM! I thought he broke his finger... my tornado spinner now has a bit of a crunchy sound when I spin it. I felt so bad for my friend, I thought for sure he busted his finger...
so... I will be re-designing my panel soon.. MOVING THE SPINNER!, adding illumination (LEDWiz) and a 49 way joystick (w/GPWiz49)... I may drop the tstick plus... I don't really see the need for a switchable 4-8 way since I have dedicated p360s everywhere else. I will use the GPWIZ49 to handle 2, 4, and diagonal modes instead. I'm not sure I care for the action on the tstick plus anyway, honestly it feels kind of chincy to me...
Anyway... here is to never being done!
BTW: Also I received 4 illuminated ball top handles for Christmas... and they look un-freakin-believeable! I now have an Atomic theme for mamewah.. thanks to PH! Once I get it installed, I'll take another pic with all of the blue leds and the new front end...
Lookin good Billy Ray! 8)
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On the 49-way, cut the hole for the shaft 1" or 1-1/8" to enable the wood to act as a "restrictor" for the joystick. It doesn't take much travel to activate the motion, but the overtravel is very big (read: very long throw). For 2-way and 4-way games I think you will like the restricted movement better.
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...the overtravel is very big (read: very long throw)
I wasn't sure about this, since I have never used a 49 way before. I figured somebody would chime in... thanks for the input!
I've found the whole switching the joystick very frustrating for people (other than myself). After seeing the cabinet in action it was very obvious to me how unrealistic it is to expect the average user to know what control to use never mind the need to switch between 4 and 8 way modes...
Hopefully the auto switching capability of the 49 way coupled with leds to indicate the appropriate controls will make the whole thing that much easier to use...
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how are the wheels on the bottom supported? I was thinking about doing something similar, but i'm afraid if I dont support them properly they will rip right out when i tilt the cab and put weight on them (or the wheels stay in place and rip the sides of the cab up!)
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Trust me....the best of both worlds. Up front and center for Pac-Man (The way it should be!)
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how are the wheels on the bottom supported? I was thinking about doing something similar, but i'm afraid if I dont support them properly they will rip right out when i tilt the cab and put weight on them (or the wheels stay in place and rip the sides of the cab up!)
I built a separate floor unit and the wheels are anchored into it. The floor/platform of the cabinet is built like a small deck. The sides are anchored to the floor unit using oak cleats (see pic on post 35) and the sides hold the front and rear panels together... so the wheels are not going anywhere.
KrawDaddy:
Thanks for the tip... I love your cabinet, I came across it many moons ago... very innovative.
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Now now... don't laugh too hysterically...
Here is a first cut at re-vamping my layout...
Things I absolutely don't want to give up:
Defender / Asteroids layout
Things I want to change:
Move the dang spinner
Add a 49 way switchable for 2 / 4 / diagonal games
Add dedicated front-end navigation buttons
Get the 4 way stick closer to the operator... I cant stand it so far away (original design)
Move credit/player switches closer to actual controls.
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Player one button layout looks like a dinosaur(brontosaurus) ;D
It looks a little jumbled together in my opion.
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Select? You don't need a select button. Map player 1 start to do that!
You also could map existing buttons to be "L" and "R" too.
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Player one button layout looks like a dinosaur(brontosaurus)
I agree it is jumbled... I (like many others before me) am trying to accomplish the "all in one" with some real specific requirements... causing the jumbalia....
Select? You don't need a select button. Map player 1 start to do that!
Absolutely... that is pretty much the defacto-standard (and what I have today) but after watching people play the thing and having to explain it (basically because there is no artwork to indicate what button does what)... I thought it would be convienient and easy to use if all of the front end controls were separate from the "arcade" controls.
ThanX!
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Ok... I'm letting go of Defender and Asteroids for now... so nothing too fancy... I've changed the button layout to "curved" style.... Some like it some don't as for me I'm not sure... I felt like throwing some curves into it...
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My control panel is all curved, and honestly I wouldn't go that route again.
When playing solo it is more comfortable, but when playing with others, where you don't have the space to have your elbows out, then the curve is very uncomfortable.
The straight layout is easier to compensate for.
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I concur. I made a curved layout on one of my multi-panels for fighters and StreetFighter is a lot easier to play with the buttons layed out straight 3x2. My future panels with 6 or 7 button layouts will have the buttons straight.
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Thanks Markvp and Versapak... comments appreciated!
I'm convinced... curved is out.
.....
Ok... I've beat this thing to death... and honestly... this it isn't all that interesting to me or anybody else for that matter. I've decided to implement a psuedo Defender/Asteroids layout... I just can't seem to let it go.
I've put the 49 way right above the spinner. I thought about jettisoning the analog flight stick all together, but after a few reads... it appears 49 way raw doesn't really work well for StarWars... so it stays for now. The real question for me will be how well does the GPWiz49 play with the Apac... not sure how Windows and/or MAME will be able to handle various inputs...
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I don't think there's room on there for a dead horse
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I don't think there's room on there for a dead horse
I just don't want it to turn into a pile of horse sh*t... Allthough I'll be the first to admit... its clolse! :)
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Which are your "O" and "K" buttons? ;)
I think it looks fine, m'self. A bit more than I'll have, but if it makes sense to you.....
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Waitaminutejustasecond.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=43594.0;id=22471;image)
What's with the fistful of buttons you added off to the left there and a few other places?
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Its not immediately apparent, but I've included an "Asteroids / Defender" layout.. Two of the 6 buttons on the leftmost (player 3) are used for asteroids cw and ccw buttons, and the other two extra above the player 1 are the thrust and fire (used both for Asteroids and Defender)... And now that I look at it AGAIN the two buttons to the left of the spinner could be removed, they are not needed.
Thanks for forcing me to explain it. :)
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There hasn't been, isn't and will not be any game that's not playable with such
a panel.
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Ok... PH offered to do skin for Mamewah for me based on his Atomic theme... I FREAKN' LOVE IT! Couple that with blue SlikStik illuminated joystick handles, super bright leds for the coin door and trackball... and BAM!
The only thing left (besides a respin of the panel) LedWiz! Illuminated buttons! I have to take a break for a while... I've reached my salary cap.
I've purchased the GG 49 way controller, the 49 way stick, a ball top, Druin's rotary interface and Mark Oats rotary adapter...
to be continued...
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One more gratuitous pic of the 49 way controller, cable and stick.. don't mind the paper buttons strewed about, I forgot to remove them before I snapped it...
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RetroA
Not sure how I managed to miss this project. Must of been during my off time in this hobby... ;D
Your cab is freakn nice!!! :notworthy:
I love that Mamewah skin, is that layout available anywhere or is an exclusive from Pix? ;D
I think it would go perfect with my ol' lil cab
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=35490.msg310042#msg310042
Finally after about a year its ready for the side art.
hehe I guess my cab just found its long lost father :D
mj147
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Ummm, didn't see this exact answer so...
In your list of things to provide for the rest of us, will that include a rough estimate of $$ spent and parts used/bought/borrowed?
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RetroA
Not sure how I managed to miss this project. Must of been during my off time in this hobby... ;D
Your cab is freakn nice!!! :notworthy:
I love that Mamewah skin, is that layout available anywhere or is an exclusive from Pix? ;D
I think it would go perfect with my ol' lil cab
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=35490.msg310042#msg310042
Finally after about a year its ready for the side art.
hehe I guess my cab just found its long lost father :D
mj147
Like your cab too!... thanks for the comp :D
Pix cranked that mamewah theme out for me... I was very happy to get that done... as with everything he does... it looks great. I'm sure he still has a copy kicking around ;)
Ummm, didn't see this exact answer so...
In your list of things to provide for the rest of us, will that include a rough estimate of $$ spent and parts used/bought/borrowed?
Yeah... I have a pile of receipts and such that I'm afraid to add up... To be fair... I would just add up the stuff I actually put into the thing... not all of the mistakes I paid for ::)
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Very nice! I'm working on a collapsible cab myself, but don't have anywhere near the woodworking skills you do. I wish I would've thought about cams, because I'm not too sure about bolting everything together. It's amazing how clean your cab looks, I swear it looks like a pre-made kit! ;)
One question, where did you get those things to hold down the wires in your control panel and what are they called? When I get around to wiring my cab for the last time, I want to make sure I get everything clipped down and neat.
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Very nice! I'm working on a collapsible cab myself, but don't have anywhere near the woodworking skills you do. I wish I would've thought about cams, because I'm not too sure about bolting everything together. It's amazing how clean your cab looks, I swear it looks like a pre-made kit! ;)
One question, where did you get those things to hold down the wires in your control panel and what are they called? When I get around to wiring my cab for the last time, I want to make sure I get everything clipped down and neat.
Thank you! I used plastic cable clamps like:
http://www.happcontrols.com/electrical_supplies/90000200.htm
They have them at Home Depot or any other place in the world that sells electrical supplies... mine were 3/8" in size.