Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: wescotte on January 11, 2003, 05:41:32 am
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I'm having problems mounting my happs super to a 5/8" MDF.
If I use happs assembly instructions there is no way the joystick is long enough to make it through the 5/8" MDF and be at a normal joystick height. This image shows on the left happs instructions (cut/paste by me) and on the right is a suggestion by a friend. It will allow me to get the proper height but I'm afraid this configuration on the right will make the joystick harder to use and less responcive. Any suggestions?
(http://www.wescotte.com/joystick2.jpg)
Note: the setup on the right has no spacer just above the locking piece. When I swirl the the stick I don't hear the buttons clicking every time.
Also I was able to get the proper height using this setup.. Same deal.. Is this gonna affect how the joystick operates? I can route the CP so the happs instructions are the correct
height but it's something i'd rather not to because I'm afraid if somebody hits the joystick hard enough it might just break right off the CP. (I'd have to route more than half way trhough the 5/8" to achive a playable height)
(http://www.wescotte.com/joystick.jpg)
Thanks
Eric
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IMHO the joystick will not work well in any configuration but the first one (from Happs).
I routed quite a bit from my 3/4" MDF. I think the joystick would break long before the MDF would. If you are "bolting through" I doubt you could break it on purpose.
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If you want max Height on the joystick route from the top down, then cover with some kind of over lay. Any option would be to use a mounting plate.
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I'm having problems mounting my happs super to a 5/8" MDF.
If I use happs assembly instructions there is no way the joystick is long enough to make it through the 5/8" MDF and be at a normal joystick height. This image shows on the left happs instructions (cut/paste by me) and on the right is a suggestion by a friend. It will allow me to get the proper height but I'm afraid this configuration on the right will make the joystick harder to use and less responcive. Any suggestions?
I've mounted 3 of my supers through 1/2" MDF and 1/4" lexan (3/4 total), following the standard Happ instructions, and they have plenty of height. Are you sure that you are using the proper top spacer? (short one for wood) That bottom piece that you referred to as a spacer is actually the actuator - it has to be on the bottom to make contact with the microswitches. It flips one way for 8-way operation, the other for 4-way. It should be snug against bottom of the stick.
Also, be sure that the tube-type spacer at the top goes onto the stick BEFORE the large black ring, with the lip on the top. I'm sure you've done these things, but I'm just trying to think of what could be going wrong...
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Please correct me if I am wrong but wouldn't that be the longer spacer to give max height to the stick for mounting in wood. With the longer spacer the clip goes in the bottom notch. With the shorter spacer there is more stick poking thru the actuator piece and the clip goes in the next notch.
The pieces only work properly when assembled as per the Happs drawing. The only choices are short or long tube at the top and flipping the actuator for 4 way or 8 way.
If you like more stick showing you will have to use a router to take off a quarter to a third on an inch underneath the cp. Or you could mount from top down and router the top for flush fit and cover with a graphic and lexan.
BobA
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Please correct me if I am wrong but wouldn't that be the longer spacer to give max height to the stick for mounting in wood. With the longer spacer the clip goes in the bottom notchBobA
Oops, my bad. I meant to put "(short for metal)" but as usual I spazzed out.
I will admit, though, that they diagram doesn't seem to make much sense until you actually put one together, then you can see how it all works. When I first looked at one, I couldn't understand the need for that top tube, but when I assembled one, it made sense.
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Well when I assemble the joystick according to the instructions happs gave me the ball of the joystick nearly touches the wood. It's way way to low for it to be playable. I'm pretty sure I'm doing it correctly. Can anyone with a super give me a picture of an assembled joystick?
Eric
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Here we go. Pardon the poor photo I cannot do macro with this cheap camera.
(http://members.shaw.ca/bakaye/super1.jpg)
Picture of xgaming super clone.
When assembling for a wooden panel.
First thing on joystick is long spacer with lip at the top, next the donut shaped hole cover, next the small spacer with wide part facing towards bottom, slip the shaft into joystick at this point.
The actuator is shown at the bottom with the clip. If you want 8 way mode the fatter part is up thus it hits the switches sooner. If you want 4 way the fatter part is down where the clip attaches.
Does that make sense?
Note if you were to assemble as shown in the picture, fat end of actuator down or closest to clip then it would be in 4 way.
Hope that helps.
BobA
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Here we go. Pardon the poor photo I cannot do macro with this cheap camera.
(http://members.shaw.ca/bakaye/super1.jpg)
Picture of xgaming super clone.
When assembling for a wooden panel.
First thing on joystick is long spacer with lip at the top, next the donut shaped hole cover, next the small spacer with wide part facing towards bottom, slip the shaft into joystick at this point.
When you slip the shaft into the joystick does the smaller spacer go in or does it rest on the lip? I'll have to check that out but maybe I have that upside down and going into the joystick...
Eric
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The small spacer is fat side down and it rests on the lip inside the body. The long spacer and small spacer set the height of the stick on the joystick assy.
BobA
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Having the cone piece upside down will make the stick seem shorter and will mean the actuating piece doesn't contact the microswitches properly - I know as I had it wrong the first time. Make sure the e-clip goes in the last notch. It shouldn't be easy to get the clip on, you need to push quite firmly on the actuator to expose the notch (I do :-\).
If you think those sticks are short then stay away from T-stiks - much shorter.
Cheers
-cdbrown
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If you think those sticks are short then stay away from T-stiks - much shorter.
I mounted a t-stick under 3/8" plywood (no routing) with 1/8" plexi and I'm comfortable with the height. They should probably be used with metal control panels or mounting plates though.