Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: eggedd2k on September 12, 2005, 03:54:28 pm
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getting the wood cut for my defender cab this coming friday (can't wait!)
i'm currently considering the options for screwing all the cabinet panels together. The only requirement i've set myself is no visible screws from outside the cab.
what options are there for screwing the panels together? so far i've just seen the wooden baton method. i also saw one that used plastic corner type things.
any advice?
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ony one prob with using glue - i need to be able to take the cab to bits easy for moving etc.
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ony one prob with using glue - i need to be able to take the cab to bits easy for moving etc.
thats an important requirement that belongs in the OP ;)
why not do a variation of what Tiviore did with his cab? Countersink holes in the panels and epoxy in bolts. Then fill the holes with filler and put the vinyl/paint over them. Then on the inside its just a matter of attaching washers+nuts to the bolts for strong seamless design. And can be disassembled.
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why not do a variation of what Tiviore did with his cab? Countersink holes in the panels and epoxy in bolts. Then fill the holes with filler and put the vinyl/paint over them. Then on the inside its just a matter of attaching washers+nuts to the bolts for strong seamless design. And can be disassembled.
I liked the idea of countersinking my screws (bolts in this situation) but I hated the way wood filler looked (that is unless you do it perfectly and lots of sanding). The method I used was to put in "wooden caps" they look like wood plugs but they flare out at the top.
You put a drop of glue in the countersunk hole, hammer in the wooden cap, and let it dry overnight. Then you take a saw, preferably a Japanese saw since it lays completely flat on the surface and needs one nice pull on the saw, and the top of the cap is chopped off. Leaving a completely flush and smooth surface. A little sanding may be required depending on how smooth the cut was.
Good luck with your project.
BTW, I hear you about being able to take it apart. A lot of the cab plans and instructions floating around assume that you'll be leaving the cab in your basement when you move.
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i'm gonna consult the guy when he cuts my panels out on friday - surely a shopfitter like him'd know the best way to put a cabinet together.
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ony one prob with using glue - i need to be able to take the cab to bits easy for moving etc.
WHY in the world would you have to do that?
Do you take your couch apart to move it? How about your dresser? Coffee table? Your desk, do you take that apart to move it?
Taking your cabinet apart is a BAD idea. And it doesn't even make any sense for a small cabinet like Defender. All you have to do to ease moving is take the monitor out.
I can carry a plywood Defender (with monitor and backdoor removed) up or down 2 flights of stairs by myself (I've owned several of them).
If you are making an MDF one then you will need a friend to help carry it, but it still will be easy.
I have on a few occasions had to take a cabinet apart and reassemble later. They are NEVER the same after you do this.
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he's got a point. i'll have to consider.
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so far i've just seen the wooden baton method. i also saw one that used plastic corner type things.
Not understanding what you're talking about, or having a picture to look at, I can only assume you're speaking of dowels in the first instance, and no idea with the second.
Glue, as was mentioned.
Biscuits. Probably harder to line up than most folks care to deal with
Pocket holes. Go to www.rockler.com and look for something called a Kreg jig. Should be pretty self explanatory. Dunno how it'd work for building a cab, but you could easily take it apart, and if it were a tad wobbly, you could fill the holes a touch with some wood putty before reassembling.
Look for "decking fasteners". These are used in construction of decks for a house. Joist hangers, plate fasteners, corner braces, etc.
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I'd go the countersinking and wood filler route. It's not hard at all to do. I did a quick sanding and then painted the cabinet, and I can't even tell where the screws are anymore. It's much easier and sturdier to do it this way, in my opinion.