Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: TurboC-- on August 24, 2005, 01:31:02 pm
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I'm trying to fill in some button-sized holes in my metal CP, to shore it up prior to applying my peel&stick CPO.
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Well, the standard suggestion is going to be bondo. I filled in several holes in my metal panel with that. Just put something behind the hole, gloop the bondo on, and then when it's hard, sand it down smooth.
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I would go with the bondo suggestion. I would definitely not use wood putty. One problem with wood putty is that some types of it will shrink after use.. so if you fill a hole with it, the hole may not be filled when it dries! Bondo is more of a what-you-see-is-what-you-get kind of experience. Bondo will also be stronger than the wood putty.
-88mph
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bondo is also designed to be used on metal.
as opposed to wood putty... which is not.
Of course, you could always go with METAL PUTTY!!! (http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/labmetal.html)
That stuff says you can even powder coat it!!!
HERE (http://www.rgvac.com/restoration.asp?projid=19) is a walk-thru on repairing metal control panels with bondo.
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HERE (http://www.rgvac.com/restoration.asp?projid=19) is a walk-thru on repairing metal control panels with bondo.
Excellent link ... thanks! (I'm not the OP, but definitely goes in the useful links file).
Cheers.
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Well, I kinda don't feel like spending the money on bondo (it isn't cheap) just for this one thing. And even if I did, looking at that patching guide, the guy uses metal plugs on the bottom of the panel. I don't get this. Now the panel will not be flush with the wood underneath it. Maybe he doesn't HAVE wood underneath his? That's what I was wondering, if bondo was strong enough to form a patch without anything (like metal plugs) holding it underneath. According to this guide - apparently not. So I am back to my original options, and it's looking like duct tape may win out! (At least it's thin...)
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......the guy uses metal plugs on the bottom of the panel. I don't get this. Now the panel will not be flush with the wood underneath it. Maybe he doesn't HAVE wood underneath his?
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There is a complete plank of wood underneath the metal control panel?
If that was the case, then your joys and buttons mount through both a metal panel *and* the wood underneath?
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How about good old JB weld! That stuff is pretty strong and they say you can file it, sand it and drill it!
http://jbweld.net/index.php
Here's just some of the stuff it will work on!
I think it only cost a few bucks for the stuff at any auto store!
fuel tanks
radiators
cracked engine blocks
transmission & rear-end casings
cylinder heads & sleeves
generators, starters, water & fuel pumps
axles & hubs
valve guides
press fit bearings
crankshaft pulleys
casting defects
door stops
key ways
stripped threads
body shop repairs
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The reason that he has the metal plug underneath is to keep the "wet" bondo from just falling through. Bondo when mixed up and applied has the consistancy of toothpaste.
When I did my metal panel, I used a fine metal mesh behind the panel to hold the bondo in place. Once it hardened, I could sand down the back until iit was flush as well as the front.
The small bondo kits are only about $10 at Auto-Zone.
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Mesh eh. Seems unnecessarily messy when you could use something non-porous. I don't want to use duct tape, but I was thinking about what other materials would be thin enough to not cause a problem in mounting, but inflexible/hard enough at that thickness to do the job. Maybe they sell metal that's thin but not too thin. Hmm...
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Mesh eh.
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But what is supporting the patch job? That's the general problem.
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I echo SteveJ34's question (I am having real trouble visualizing how the plugs can cause a problem when you have buttons, joysticks and other things that stick much further out) -- if putting the plugs underneath is a problem, then perhaps a picture of the metal/wood CP would help us make recommendations.
Cheers.
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But what is supporting the patch job?
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Directly flush beneath the metal CP is the solid wooden section of the CP.
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Still don't really get it -- the only panel that I have that contains both metal and wood is on my big Capcom cabinet adn they are glued together instead of in two pieces.
I guess I would ask if the holes go through the wood as well (I presume that there are matching holes in the metal and wood to accomodate buttons and joysticks).
Cheers.
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No, the holes do not go through the wood in most areas. Just the metal. The whole panel was hacked up to convert Pac-man to a trivia game. I restored the wood part very nicely. Now I have to patch the holes in the metal.
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No, the holes do not go through the wood in most areas.
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in that case the support for the bondo should be provided by the wood panel backing, no?
Not unless it's 100% perfectly flush at all points? (It isn't.) And not unless it is currently installed? What happens when I have to remove my metal panel? Sounds like a really bad idea all the way around. And aluminum foil looks only marginally better than duct tape. Why spend another $10 on bondo just to have aluminum foil all over my panel. I'd rather just duct tape in some stupid cutouts of plastic, or whatever better "cheap as free" method I can think of with stuff I have lying around.
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Not to nit pick but you never said anything about removing it, just that you needed the surface to be flat for your CPO :)
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I guess, not sure that would be thin enough though.
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Goof Off can wins again! In addition to cleaning the artwork, and the can's paint providing a near-exact color match for Pac-man yellow, now the rest of the pieces of can made a nice metal patch for the control panel. ;D I feel like a Native American, using every part...