Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: bossyman15 on August 22, 2005, 02:26:30 am
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tomorrow morning i will go to home depot and buy MDF and stuff with my trusty $150 gift card ;D
but today my mom and I cleaned out the garage (sorry i didn't have "before" pic) but i was so messy you'd hardly be able to walk around.
http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/9349/cimg09363or.jpg
yes that's my bowflex...
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??? ???
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Welcome. I hope you fully understand that by showing us a completely empty garage before you even start, that you are expected to have about four million pics on here before your through. None of the old, sorry I haven't updated in a long time crap. On days you do nothing to the cab, there better be pics of you eating cereal and descriptions of what the heck was going on. Oh yeah, welcome aboard, and good luck!! ;D
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What type of cabinet do you have in mind? C'mon, share the details!
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... you are expected to have about four million pics on here before your through. None of the old, sorry I haven't updated in a long time crap...
Furthermore, even if you do this, expect lots of people to look, but almost none to comment.... or maybe they just don't like me here.
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What type of cabinet do you have in mind? C'mon, share the details!
well ok it will be LuSiD cabinet (oh no! not another LuSiD cabinet!)
and i hope to go for Modular Panels CP. it will be 4 player (3rd, 4th Modular Panels, 1st, 2nd fixed)
and also to all of you... if you think you can help out with my artwork here....
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=41948.0
thanks!
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A modular frankenpanel. Fates help us all.
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I never knew that BnB game existed (well, non-existed, that is).
Good luck on your cab. I can't wait to see what you come up with.
I smell a well decked-out MameWAH layout, complete with sound effects. There are only a million or so BnB wav files out there. :)
-Stobe
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I somehow get the feelin that the "Heh-heh.....Huh-Huh" of having a BnB cab will wear off quickly.
Its your cab thoug man, and if you can pull it off, great. ;) :police:
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... you are expected to have about four million pics on here before your through.
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thanks everybody for your comments!
but damn it my local home depot doesn't have 3/4 MDF! they only have 5/8 MDF!
but i did buy other stuff from there
http://img369.imageshack.us/img369/659/cimg09375hw.jpg
http://img369.imageshack.us/img369/9449/cimg09386bi.jpg
4 clamps comes with 4 free mini clamps
screws of different sizes all #8
shelf brackets for montor
elmer's wood filter
3" casters (i hope that is good size, and strong enought and not too big)
eye glass and mask
6 foot 2x2 lumber for supports
bunch of L brackets
well i gonna have to check out lowes' ( i hope i have lowes' in my city, san jose, ca)
edit: just checked out lowes website and closest one to my house is in femont, CA about 15 miles from me :(
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Those casters will be fine although I am surprised that you got four of the swivel type.
You forgot earplugs. (I can make comments like this now that I have gone all safety conscious.....)
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I think a beavis and butthead theme to a cab would be cool....but there is no beavis and butthead game...so people are going to wanna play beavis and butthead after seeing your cabinet, and then be sadly mistaken. :-\
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I think a beavis and butthead theme to a cab would be cool....but there is no beavis and butthead game...so people are going to wanna play beavis and butthead after seeing your cabinet, and then be sadly mistaken. :-\
ha ha well the artwork on my cab won't be excat the same as protype but it should have same pictures from that machine only on different area on my cab.
anyway i found a wood store that has 3/4 mdf and they will bring it here tomorrrow and i should start working on wedesday.
i will be going to sears soon to get some other stuff i need. i have $50 sears gift card ;D
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Make sure and get a respirator. Not just a dust mask. Spend the money, your lungs will thank you for the rest of your life.
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Make sure and get a respirator. Not just a dust mask. Spend the money, your lungs will thank you for the rest of your life.
mmmm really well i guess i could take it back and get respirator
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thanks everybody for your comments!
but damn it my local home depot doesn't have 3/4 MDF! they only have 5/8 MDF!
but i did buy other stuff from there
eye glass and mask
I thought that said glass eye and mask! I was thinking for a minute you were working on BYOM (Build your own monster).
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ummm today i will be getting my wood and will start work tomorrow.
but ummm i don't have saw horses so are there any other stuff i can use as saw horses?
also i forgot to add that the place i got my wood is called southern lumber and it is right across the street from Wendy's where that finger thing happened!
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You could possibly us a table, just make sure you don't cut through it :o I had to buy the plastic saw horses and I found out my circular saw cuts them just like butter ;D I didn't mind buying the plastic saw horses, because I have used them throughout the whole project. BTW, that MDF is heavy. I found out to move a 3/4 " 8' x 4 ' sheet I had to stand it up on it's end and pick it up (grabbing on each side) and lean back a little. Then take small steps and set it down every so often when I got tired. Not recommended but it was the ONLY way I could even move the stuff around by myself. A friend is a much preferred method. Just offer him/her some play time when it is done ;D
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You could possibly us a table, just make sure you don't cut through it :o I had to buy the plastic saw horses and I found out my circular saw cuts them just like butter ;D I didn't mind buying the plastic saw horses, because I have used them throughout the whole project. BTW, that MDF is heavy. I found out to move a 3/4 " 8' x 4 ' sheet I had to stand it up on it's end and pick it up (grabbing on each side) and lean back a little. Then take small steps and set it down every so often when I got tired. Not recommended but it was the ONLY way I could even move the stuff around by myself. A friend is a much preferred method. Just offer him/her some play time when it is done ;D
then i have a problem because i will be doing this mostly by myself. my mom could barely lift one side of MDF and my dad is gone for buiess (SP?) trip!
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You could bang your own up out of some 2 X 4. It wouldn't be very difficult.
Wow almost ready to start! I am erect in anticipation. 8)
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You could bang your own up out of some 2 X 4. It wouldn't be very difficult.
oh why didn't i think of that!?
those 2x4 costs maybe 5 bucks at home depot...
but what type of wood would be good for it?
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If I had to make my own, I would just use some pine. It's cheap & easy to cut.
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There IS a Beavis and Butthead game. It's for SNES.
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Sawhorses are only like $30. The 2x4s would cost nearly that!
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There IS a Beavis and Butthead game. It's for SNES.
but this is different game than snes ones
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There IS a Beavis and Butthead game. It's for SNES.
but this is different game than snes ones
Then use the Genesis version ;D
Oh yeah, are you gonna use that rough marquee I posted in the Artwork section?
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Use the PC version. Virtual Stupidity was a good game.
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Oh yeah, are you gonna use that rough marquee I posted in the Artwork section?
yeah but first i gonna get my friend who are good with photo shop to fix it up a bit.
anyway update for today...
my mom was nice enought to buy me a pair of saw horses.
but i only done very little today... :( just one side of cabinet cut so far...
http://img393.imageshack.us/img393/8525/cimg09395mu.jpg
i cut it using jigsaw... didn't like using circlar saw because i have more control using jigsaw plus it has speed control, i can make it go slow or fast. my circlar saw are just fast.
also this is what happened when i used circlar saw
http://img393.imageshack.us/img393/3496/cimg09428nf.jpg
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You did a nice job cutting, but that looks like a Lusid cab, are you not going to make it the shape of the beavis and butthead prototype? Anyhow, looks good, keep posting pictures.
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You did a nice job cutting, but that looks like a Lusid cab, are you not going to make it the shape of the beavis and butthead prototype? Anyhow, looks good, keep posting pictures.
no it will not look like beavis and butthead prototype... it will just have some BB artwork on it (if i could get the scans of those artwork). just in different places.
also i could work on it some more but my mom went out and i couldn't be able to lift another sheet of MDF up on top of sawhorse, i'll have to wait for her to come home before i can do more :(
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there is a beavis and butthead golf game for PC.... "Bunghole in One" maybe it would play well with a trackball...???
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If you do a search in "arcade miscellanious" I started a whole thread about the beavis and butthead prototype a while ago... I believe theres some nice pictures of the sideart and cpo...not positive tho, if there is I could probably draw you something in paint.
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It's looking good so far. I was curious, did you follow the book when making the curved part by creating the 1 inch grid? I did, and then I looked around the house for a jar lid that was about the right size. I used the jar lid to draw around the curve. I tried drawing it without the circular lid and had a lot of trouble making it look right. I wouldn't worry about the chip too much, I banged up the corners of mine trying to handle those sheets of MDF by myself. I don't even notice those anymore. You can always turn that on the inside if your other side panel comes out OK. You must have a pretty good jigsaw. On mine the blade always ended up bending a little so the cut ends were not always 90 deg. with the sides. Since you are following the book you might want to see my thread, it has a lot of photos:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=41086.0
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http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=34386.0 There, i Did the search for you, if you look at the picture Tbombaci posted, you have a great idea what the control panel looks like, and you have an idea of what the sideart looks like, hope that helps, Doug.
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You must have a pretty good jigsaw. On mine the blade always ended up bending a little so the cut ends were not always 90 deg. with the sides.
well while my blade didn't bend at all, it still made some angled cuts. if you look at my second pic closely you should be able to see that its not all at 90 deg.
edit: (i always forget to add something ::) )
my mom just got home, time to get back to work :D
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ok i'm done for tonight...
last pics for tonight
http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/8075/cimg09434el.jpg
first side of cabinet for tracing a second cabinet side
http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/2272/cimg09456ph.jpg
added monitor shelf and lower support and base plate (well not yet). i measured lower support and base plate wrong because i got confused which line on measuring tape was 3/8.
will finish it and cut it tomorrow after i get back from college.
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Looks like you are making progress. I saw you had marked all your pieces and included the small amount for the thickness of the blade, that's good. After you cut an adjacent piece, I would still measure the next adjacent piece again just in case your blade thickness is not what you thought it was. I guess I was lazy, I didn't want to calculate in the thickness of the blade all the time, so I would mark one, then cut one, then mark the next one then cut it. If you can pull it off without having to go get another piece of wood you will be doing better than I did. I sure hope that bowflex can handle the sawdust ;D
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well while i haven't work on my cab yet. i did weight one side of the cabinet that i cut: 43LBs
also i added up the cost : $117.09 so far...
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my update for a day (8/25/05)
on the way back from college i stopped by home depot to take back one of my set of clamps with free mini clamps (becuase mini clamps are crap) because when i took my dust mask back yesterday i saw near checkstands the set of clamps but with free hand clamps! >:( why didn't i see that in first place! and it cost about 9 bucks less!!!!! :(
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/762/cimg09496bs.jpg
well i done measure it right and cut it. (second side, base supports, and montior shelf)
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/7599/cimg09473go.jpg
time to sand the difference!
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/9752/cimg09503tv.jpg
but i'm still not done sanding it because my power sander's sander ripped and i don't think i have a spare so tomorrow i'll have to go to store and get a new ones
but good news tomorrow's friday! i'm free all day! i should get third sheet done before day is over! :)
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Looks great so far! I have a similar sander and I don't like it very much. It sands OK, but that little on/off switch thingy on the front of the sander is awefull. It usually takes me several tries to either get it turned on or off. You will be using that later one when you sand down all your surfaces before painting. That was boring tedious part that doesn't give back much reward. How are you planning on painting it? Roller? Brush? Spray?
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Looks great so far! I have a similar sander and I don't like it very much. It sands OK, but that little on/off switch thingy on the front of the sander is awefull. It usually takes me several tries to either get it turned on or off. You will be using that later one when you sand down all your surfaces before painting. That was boring tedious part that doesn't give back much reward. How are you planning on painting it? Roller? Brush? Spray?
well i was thinking about spraying, its a lot easier to do. any flaws with that?
also i was thinking about painting it light blue. but not sure about CP base... and tmolding color
oh and i went to sears and i don't seen to find t molding slot for router... where could i find it? home depot?
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As far as painting goes, I think spraying with a spray gun would be the best, and I have heard canned spray paint doesn't look too good. I used a Latex Gloss paint that was put on with a really fine foam roller. It is not bad looking, it has an orange peel type texture to it, I was hoping I could make it smoother. Luckily since I used gloss, if you are not standing right up next to it, you don't see the bump texture, and you see the reflections. So from across the room you can't tell mine is not sprayed on. I used an extra piece of MDF I had laying around to try all the painting out before I painted the cabinet (the last photo below). It seems like the general consensus is to use semi-gloss paint, but I liked the gloss. Spraying will make a mess with the overspray unless you deal with it somehow or it doesn't matter (that would make that bowflex look pretty ;D). I think the best way to paint a cabinet would be to have it done at an auto body type shop with a paint booth, but that would be really costly. I bought my 1/16" slot cutter at Home Depot. I also ordered one from Amazon that was 3/32", but I didn't use it. The t-molding I bought from tmolding.com worked good with the 1/16" cutter, and it will not pop off easy.
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You used black paint in that area? Holy hell, you used up all of your life's luck just in not destroying your foyer.
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ChadTower, That's pretty funny ;D, no I didn't paint it there. That would be a super quick way to have the project canceled from the significant other. I painted it in the garage, right next to my red sports car though, so I guess I walked the tightrope of luck a little bit.
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mmmm almost done cutting all pices (will have a pic later)
i went to homedepot but they don't have 1/16 slot for t molding :(
where else could i find it? (went to sears but don't think they have it)
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picture so far...
http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/5765/cimg09547nm.jpg
finally finished cutting all pieces! will start building the base!
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grrrr how disappointing!!!! i called OSH and they said they have slot cutter bit for router but i went over there and they don't have it!!! >:(
well i'll have to order it from tmolding.com
so once i build my base no more work unil i get it in mail!
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I guess I was lucky to find the slot cutter bit at Home Depot. I don't think Lowe's will have it either. Looks like you will have to wait to connect the sides to the base, but there are other things you can do. You can start assembling the control panel base which if you follow the book requires Velcro and small wood strips, it took me a full day to get the control panel base setup and the guides screwed onto the bottom of the control panel top. One thing I did was practiced drilling pilot holes to see which drill bit would keep the wood from splitting when I tried to screw into it. The base will take a good amount of time to assemble also. Actually come to think of it, I don't see why you couldn't go ahead and add the sides to the base (and all the other back and top pieces also). When you get your slot cutter, you could just lay your panel down on it's side and it doesn't seem like it would be any different than laying on a sawhorse. You'll have disappointments along the way, I know I did ;D
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well i'm done for tonight...
the base is done! (execpt for casters)
i was gonna put casters on but i relize that i didnt' buy machine screws and nuts :(
so i will have to go BACK to wonderland (home depot) to get those after work.
http://img366.imageshack.us/img366/4586/cimg09553zb.jpg
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well i'm done for tonight...
the base is done! (expect for casters)
i was gonna put casters on but i realize that i didn't buy machine screws and nuts :(
so i will have to go BACK to wonderland (home depot) to get those after work.
http://img366.imageshack.us/img366/4586/cimg09553zb.jpg
edit: oh i forgot...
this was my first time using wood hot glue.
i was surprised how strong this thing was! i put wood down and BOOM it sticks like iron! i only had like 5 seconds to place it before it sets. (through, the bag said it sets in 60- 90 second :-\)
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Wow, you are moving along really well. Have you decided if you are going to wait for the slot cutter or go ahead and build the main part of the cabinet?
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i will go ahead and build the rest of it.
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whaaaaa you did some nice progress keep the good job
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grrrr how disappointing!!!! i called OSH and they said they have slot cutter bit for router but i went over there and they don't have it!!! >:(
well i'll have to order it from tmolding.com
so once i build my base no more work unil i get it in mail!
not sure if you bought ur slot cutter yet but I found this place online because my home depot was a complete rip off for the slot cutter set. the bit was like $15 and the 1/2" shaft/shank kit for the bit was like $50 I found this place online that only sells router bits and got the whole kit and slot cutter bit for $16 shipped and it only took 4 days to get here even though it said it would take 10 with free shipping. hopefully I'll get a chance to use it this week but I'm still building my frame myself and i'm only putting T-molding really on the control panel so I'm in no rush
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_slot.html
Your projects coming along nicely btw keep up the good work
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grrrr how disappointing!!!! i called OSH and they said they have slot cutter bit for router but i went over there and they don't have it!!! >:(
well i'll have to order it from tmolding.com
so once i build my base no more work unil i get it in mail!
not sure if you bought ur slot cutter yet but I found this place online because my home depot was a complete rip off for the slot cutter set. the bit was like $15 and the 1/2" shaft/shank kit for the bit was like $50 I found this place online that only sells router bits and got the whole kit and slot cutter bit for $16 shipped and it only took 4 days to get here even though it said it would take 10 with free shipping. hopefully I'll get a chance to use it this week but I'm still building my frame myself and i'm only putting T-molding really on the control panel so I'm in no rush
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_slot.html
Your projects coming along nicely btw keep up the good work
mmmm well too bad i already placed my order at tmolding.com. but that's ok. thanks for showing me that.
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the only thing i done tonight is rebuilding my base. when i was gonna put caster on, i noticed that the supports are not evenly placed as you can see in the pic. i didn't like the look of it.
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/6434/cimg09562ym.jpg
so i unscrewed the left side one and used hammer to lightly tap the board off the glue.
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/7006/cimg09573zc.jpg
I applied the wood filer and shoved as much of it as i could down the holes.
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/9113/cimg09589th.jpg
but after that when i took a second look... i had a second thought of where boards should be placed. I didn't like the idea of placing the wheels in between as it could cause a balance issue as it would be narrow instead of wide.
so i took another board off as well.
i then draw the line where the casters will be placed. and put the boards in between the casters. i then screw the board back on. I'd say it looks a lot better IMO!
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/6329/cimg09593rd.jpg
well that's it for tonight. i will put on the casters tomorrow once i get back from work. then its time to do homework and continue on Monday.
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Making some great progress! Keep the pics coming. 8)
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I like the idea of your support boards on the inside for balance improvements. I'll have to go push on my from the side and see how it wobbles ;D One thing I should mention that showed up on mine was when my rotating wheels were turned 90 degrees (closest to the support boards) they just barely touched them. I notched out the support boards a little to prevent the wheels from dragging. Yours is looking good so far.
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well i just finished installing the casters. you can see in the pic that it looks like wheels are touching the supports but its not (well very close) but it works!
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/8367/cimg09702hq.jpg
on the ground
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/7010/cimg09691zt.jpg
i may will put sides on today if my friend aren't busy (not sure) and he can come over to help but i'll have to wait and see.
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cool good job ....
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Yea, MLCS has the best price on the slot-cutter by far. Do yourself a favor and pick up their 1-1/8" forstner bit also to make the button holes in your CP.
-Ace-
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well here's my progive (sp?)for now...
http://img360.imageshack.us/img360/7655/cimg09718tj.jpg
i have attached first side on the base (man what a work out!!!!!) i am now putting on second side but i first would like to ask you guys for some tips to make it easier before i do the second side....
well any good tips i could use?
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It looks like they way you are doing it is pretty much what I did. Just try to keep the side panels square with the base. What part was hard? I am guessing trying to keep the base standing up while moving around the heavy side panel to square it up. Now that you have one panel fastened on, I think the second one will go easier because you will not have to be balancing the base as it will be somewhat free standing. I used my sawhorses to also help keep things supported while getting things like I wanted. Here is a picture showing how I used my sawhorses. Also, I stacked blocks of MDF scraps under the base since my garage floor was not level.
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mmmmm i have a bit of problem....
but first pics of what's done so far...
installed second side into place,
installed back bottom section,
(no pic yet) installed (sorta of... not screwed in place but the support block are glued in place) top section (above the marquess)
http://img352.imageshack.us/img352/6669/cimg09723qt.jpg
http://img352.imageshack.us/img352/1073/cimg09738fj.jpg
now on to the problem...
i am now trying to put up the angled back section but it hard to do. i'd need 2 or more people to keep it in postion and my mom aren't strong enought to do that. so... any idea how i could do it myself?
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well finally an update after a while becuase of damn homework!!! >:(
i was able to find a place to put support for angled back section but i am now wondering about something else
see this gap in front of cabint top section.... its about 3/4 inch from front.
http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/2210/cimg09745ut.jpg
closer look of gap...
http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/6307/cimg09753ao.jpg
now how narrow to the front should it be for maquees to be close flush to front? (say about just less than 1/4 inch)
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boy the help is never around when you need one :'(
anyway i called betson and they said their new shippment should come by this friday.
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That 3/4" gap at the front where the marquee is looks fine. Mine was the same size. What IS different is the side panels on my cabinet stick up by 3/4". Actually, the side panels stick out by 3/4" all the way down the back side (including the angled section). I don't think there is anything wrong with yours and is shouldn't cause any problems, but I understood from the book that there should be 3/4" sticking up with the side panels
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I have a little bit more time to write now, so I thought I would show you a link to my project that will show you how my marquee area looks. As you can see, not only do I have a 3/4" section of the side panels sticking out the front, I also have them sticking up. My marquee takes up about 1/4" inch of the 3/4" gap since it is two sheets of 1/8" Lexan with a piece of paper in between.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=41086.msg383185#msg383185
Like I said before, I don't think yours will create a problem, except maybe how the angled piece works in the back. Since it will be higher, it may not line up with the angle on the sidepanel. Still not a big deal.
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ok finally i got my slot cutter bit and all 3/4 free sample tmolding in mail today!!!!
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/1536/cimg09768rt.jpg
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mmmm i may will have to bite the bullet and order coin door from happs.... :(
do happs still charge high shipping?
i searched everywhere from ebay to www.coinopwarehouse.com, i even posted in BST fourm but no luck... :'(
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ok finally i got my slot cutter bit and all 3/4 free sample tmolding in mail today!!!!
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/1536/cimg09768rt.jpg
Man, those samples are excellent. All I could get was black. >:(
Keep the updates coming. 8)
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my update so far...
there was a bit change of top section of cabinet, i pulled the angled seciton back a bit so that the back of it will match the flush of bottom section. however now there was the gap between the angled section and top section. but i fixed that by puting the srcaped wood in between...
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/2343/cimg09775ec.jpg
and put LOTS of hot glue to hold it there.
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/4282/cimg09794gh.jpg
after that i screwed in the top section
the finished pic...
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/9302/cimg09804ou.jpg
ready for tmolding groove!!!
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/1663/cimg09810yl.jpg
i'd say tmolding went smoothly... the slot cutter cut through MDF like butter. no mistake at all!
this is the mess after cutting... ::)
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/33/cimg09820jp.jpg
well now i plan to put in higher back seciton (under the angled section.) however i plan to make that a door to make a easy access to the monitor.
enjoy ;)
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my update so far...
there was a bit change of top section of cabinet, i pulled the angled seciton back a bit so that the back of it will match the flush of bottom section. however now there was the gap between the angled section and top section. but i fixed that by puting the srcaped wood in between...
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/2343/cimg09775ec.jpg
and put LOTS of hot glue to hold it there.
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/4282/cimg09794gh.jpg
after that i screwed in the top section
the finished pic...
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/9302/cimg09804ou.jpg
ready for tmolding groove!!!
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/1663/cimg09810yl.jpg
i'd say tmolding went smoothly... the slot cutter cut through MDF like butter. no mistake at all!
this is the mess after cutting... ::)
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/33/cimg09820jp.jpg
well now i plan to put in higher back seciton (under the angled section.) however i plan to make that a door to make a easy access to the monitor.
enjoy ;)
also would someone answer my question about happ in my last post?
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also i was wondering what's the purpose of the speaker panel?
the size of speaker panel as shown in project arcade book is 24x26 inch!!!!
why is it so huge?!
i'm pretty sure that big size is not needed!!! unless it has other purpose?
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very disapointing!!
i drilled 2 holds for european cabinet hinges... but when i put the door (the back door) on it aren't even!!!!!!
i surely hope i could fix it!!! but if i can't i may just screw it and just make that part a perminent part.
anybody got any tips on how to fix it?
what i did so far is wood putty the screw holes hoping that when it becomes hard i could drill it and make it even...
would that work?
EDIT: well i was able to fix it...
it was just as i thought, the wood putty, even when dry and hard, woudlnt' hold the screws so i had to use a LOT of hot glue on it. and it works! while it aren't 100% perfect, its still good enought for me to live with it. HOWEVER....
the door bends down a bit because of the weight of the door, (note the clamp under the door to hold it up)
did you guys have that problem? if so, how do you guys overcome it?
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/6756/cimg09831md.jpg
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In the future, for filling large areas, you may want to consider fiberglass re-enforces auto body filler (Bondo).
Much stronger than wood filler, and completely sets up in about 15 minutes.
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well hello everybody!!! been maybe 2 weeks since my last update!!! :angel:
i decided to wait until i finish the main part of the cabinet before posting more updates...
well here it is!!!
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/3690/cimg09958hu.jpg
my coin door
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/1921/cimg09947cu.jpg
this is TV i will be using as my monitor, model: JVC AV-27530 costs close to $250, half price of arcade monitor!!!
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/5214/cimg09893ai.jpg
the camera doesn't work on TV very well so it makes it look a lot worse than in life.
the only work left for me to do is to fix the keyboard drawer up a bit and repair the tmolding grove around the CP area. (the grove wasn't perfectly centered, don't know how that happened)
well there are some changes in my plan since then...
1) i have been thinking i may not go with beavis and butthead cab. the more i think of it the more i thought it would be to hard for me to get the pics i need for cabinet arts.
so i decide to go with simpler theme which was one of my idea before i thought of beavis and butthead.
ARCADEFOREVER
yes one word but arcade would be red and forever would be yellow or blue (not sure yet) so it wouldn't look like it is really one word but 2 words. with subtitle under it "THE GAME IS NEVER OVER" it does really blend together.
2) cabinet would be black instead of blue for BB theme. but not sure of color for tmolding. maybe blue.
after i am done with leftover work it would be time for me to start drawing up the artwork and CP layout...
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I have a JVC like that @ home and it dosent have s-video, i hope yours does as it will result in a much better picture than RCA :)
Looks good
Cheers.
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I have a JVC like that @ home and it dosent have s-video, i hope yours does as it will result in a much better picture than RCA :)
Looks good
Cheers.
yes it does have s-video
you can see the s-video cable in the pic
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WELL it looks like my project will be halted for a while because i will be moving in with my friends soon! :D i can't wait!!!
i think the apt do have a place to put my cab (in the gragre). but i do have enought time to fix my cab up a bit before moving.
but for now...
MORE CHANGES....
since i will be moving then i might not use Modular Panels (due to stoage issue) but i saw this CP http://www.ogredog.com/mame_cp_construction.htm
and i like the joysticks and button layout... so my CP will be based on that with some changes
3rd and 4th players are 4 buttons each
removed 5 button for astriods
moved trackball button to bottom
narrowed the CP width by about 2 inches
pic and if you have access to visio program... just change file name to .vsd
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see my CP thead in main fourm...
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=43850.0