Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: HaRuMaN on August 21, 2005, 09:15:01 am
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I got my Wei-Ya chassis in for my WG7000 25" monitor. The e-bay seller states that this chassis does need an isolation transformer even though the chassis has a household plug.
I plugged it into a power strip (no isolation transformer) and hooked everything up and my Mortal Kombat runs great on it.
Is there a risk this will damage the game/chassis/myself? Should I not plug it in again until I get an isolation transformer?
That being said, is this a reasonable transformer (even though it says 8-liners)? It comes with the female plug already installed, so I could plug the Wei-Ya chassis right into it:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ISOLATION-TRANSFORMER-for-8Liner-Video-Arcade-Monitor_W0QQitemZ6200077556QQcategoryZ13718QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
I just got my MK up and running. I don't want anything bad to happen. :D
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Looks like a iso to me, that should work fine.
Later,
dabone
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Yes that is an isolation transformer and will be fine in your application.
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Blow up? Everything I've ever read about monitors and ISOs is that it's a SAFETY feature, not a "do or die" sort of thing.
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Blow up? Everything I've ever read about monitors and ISOs is that it's a SAFETY feature, not a "do or die" sort of thing.
Yeah, that's what I thought, too... but I'm buying one anyway, just to be on the safe side. I won't turn my game back on until its installed.
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Yeah, that's what I thought, too...
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A "hot chassis" monitor (one that NEEDS an isolation transformer) can quite literally blow up immediately on power up if an isolation transformer is not connected. The same can even go back and destroy your video circuitry on the gameboard too!
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::) Haruman is a lucky guy I guess.
Hell he even swapped yoke wires with the power on and didn't mess things up. ;D
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::) Haruman is a lucky guy I guess.
Hell he even swapped yoke wires with the power on and didn't mess things up. ;D
Hey, I had a funny buzz in my ears for a minute, does that count?
All kidding aside, I was lucky not to have gotten hurt by what I did. From now on I'm gonna check and double check the power before working in my cab. My isolation transformer is supposed to arrive in 2 days, then I can get back to some Mortal Kombat! ;D FATALITY!
I will say, the Wei-Ya chassis is very nice. Very easy to set up, and the picture looks great! The pictures controls work well and are located on a remote (wired) that you can stick (with included self-adhesive pad) or screw down wherever it's convenient. All in all, I'm very satisfied, and for the low low price of $96.
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Any pictures of this new chassis?
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Is the model number 825H1 or 826?? I just got an 825H1 directly from Alva Amusements for 69+ shipping. The 826 is the same price. Other than that on my tube I cannot get the picture narrow enough, I really like everything else about it. The picture is bright and looks brand new!
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Just $69 for a new 25" chassis? I might have to do that on the two 255" monitors I've got taking up space! I had no idea they were that cheap. However, you're the second person to mention width issues with those things. That makes 2 for 2.
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Well, Haruman seems to be ok. The seller on eBay he got it from gets them from Alva and resells them on eBay. After reading his posts again I am thinking he got the 826H instead of the 825H. The 825H doesn't have remote controls.
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Is the model number 825H1 or 826?? I just got an 825H1 directly from Alva Amusements for 69+ shipping. The 826 is the same price. Other than that on my tube I cannot get the picture narrow enough, I really like everything else about it. The picture is bright and looks brand new!
I got the 826HR.
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The "R" on the end of the model number indicates Remote adjustment board.
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The Wei-Ya chassis do NOT need isolating transformers. I have seen plenty of these fitted in Japanese cabs with no transformer and have a couple of Wei-Ya monitors in cabinets here, work fine, no transformer needed.
Andy
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Well, my iso came in the mail today, so I'm back in business. Looks like a brand new monitor! Yay! :D
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Monitorguru, I stand corrected, sorry for the bad advice.
I am a bit mystified though, surely all these have switch mode PSUs which are by definition isolating? I am not sure how or why the non-isolated version exists.
On the subject of being lucky while working on kit, I had to sit down and have a stiff drink earlier today after I disconnected the anode cap on a monitor while it was STILL POWERED ON!
The only reason I am still here to write this was that the monitor had gone into sleep mode and so was therefore sort-of powered down but I would NOT recommend this!!
I knew that this type of monitor does not store CRT charge and I suppose that knowledge gave me a false sense of security when attacking the rubber cap, otherwise I would have powered it OFF and discharged! The shock was not physical but the realisation of what could have happened if it were not a monitor with a sleep mode.
Andy
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Man, when it comes to this stuff, I take no chances. I UNPLUG the cord.