Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Forum => Topic started by: MrD on July 13, 2005, 01:59:34 pm
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I was thinking of adding this to my jukebox for deep bass. It has it's own built in amplifier.
http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=6015&cat=SPK
Assuming I can get the 12vdc to handle it, does anyone have any thoughts on it?
Thanks
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Looks cheap and chearful, but I'm sure it will add some base. Its quite small, so the mount of air is actually gonna move is limited - but if its going inside a cab that will probably act as a resonater anyway...
Note that its designed for use in a car, and is such is expecting an engine and/or a car battery to power it. So if its anyway near its claimed 200Watts, it could pull 16amps on your 12V supply. This is probably seriously beyond what a PC powersupply can give on its 12V rail, even it has "500W" stamped on the side.
I would reccommend a completely seperate supply (ie a seperate AC->DC transformer) for it.
Having said all that, I may be being over cautious!
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I would be skeptical of the "200W" in the printed material. There are a lot of interpretaions of what this means. There is a meaningless scale called "music power" and the more meaningful RMS. If it was 200W RMS, that would be a hugly powerful sub that would probably be way too much for a jukebox. As it stands, the 200W music power (porabably) will still deviver quite a kick in your juke cab.
I totally agree with Silver. DO NOT attempt to power this with a PC power supply. You'll kill it with the first beat. To power something like this without the car and huge capacity battery that is constantly being charged by the engine/alternator would require a very large power supply. I am thinking it would have to be in the 10-15 amp at 12VDC range. That's a pretty massive power supplu and transformer setup. In fact, it may be cost prohibitive to attempt. I would look for an adequate powersupply and it's costs and factor that into the purchase if I were you.
Hope this advice isn't too late...
Good luck
Bumble
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Nope not too late. I started another thread about a power supply but it's applicable here.
look at this power supply. 650 Watts with 34 Amps on the 12vdc side.
http://www.chiefmax.com/psu/cm650.php
I'm not necessarilly going to buy this sub, but I know I need a power supply to handle any kind of amp, etc. Even if this one can't do 34Amps 12v, It would at least appear to be a lot more then some of the 8-10amp models. I'm not going to run off the same power supply as my pc. I'm thinking of using it independently.
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As big as it is (and it is a big PC power supply), this is still a switching power supply. This would still be a poor choice of supply for powering something meant to be in a car. It simply cannot supply the kind of current a car audio amplifier will be demanding constantly.
What you would need is something more like this or even larger if you can find it:
http://store.yahoo.com/allcable/alsmpowsup7.html
Basically, beware of any power supply that does not include a hefty (meaning very large and very heavy) transformer. If you have a surround sound receiver that puts out 75 to 100 watts per channel, take a look through the vent grill on the case. Chances are, you'll find one of these humongus transformers I am talking about. Anything without a large transormer is probably a switching power supply that can only deliver the rated output for very short bursts. A PC power supply falls into this catagory.
I have found that for the most part, making things designed for a car work without the car is not always a fruitful endeavour. Speakers are the exception as though they are 4 ohms and the standard home speakers are 8 ohms, most current day, higher technology amplifiers are capable of driving the smaller loads (ever see a car amp ad that says "2 ohm stable"?).
Hope this helps
Bumble
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Yeah, I don't know that I would trust the rating on that supply. I would go with something a little more industrial where you can trust its rating such as:
http://www.power-factor-1st.com/shop/enclosed-switching-power-supplies/pfc-series/sp-320.html
A switching supply will work fine and be lighter...look for PFC like this one has to ensure low noise. Just put a fuse inline with the amp at the power supply rating so you know you aren't pushing it too hard. Its definitely possible to run car audio without a car since they do it at the audio stores to demo the merchandise. You may want to choose a 13.5 volt version since thats actually closer to what it would be getting in a car with the car running.
After its all said and done though, you may be better off and end up spending less on a nice set of surround sound pc speakers like the Klipsch promedia series.