Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: REBIRTH on December 15, 2002, 07:05:10 pm
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I am considering making my own sideart in a windows application and getting it printed on some type of vinyl or somthing by Kinko's or the like. Has anyone done this? If so, any recomendations?
Thanks
Doug
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yes....self adhesive vinyl would do the trick.i used vinyl for my CP this time around and WOW! :D.crezy nice looking on vinyl..the material is strong too.but there is a draw back :-\.it scratchs easy unless you can laminate vinyl.thats about all i know.
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Large format printing is a dark art. It has been discussed here numerous times.
Basically, you should talk to whoever will do the work first, and find out what their file format preferences are. If you care about what colors you actually get, print up a small sample first, because about the only certain thing is you won't be able to predict the output based on either your screen or your printer.
If you wan't to be able to look at the image from a couple feet away and think it's sharp, then you need about 100 to 150 dpi in the full sized artwork.
You can print on self adheasive vinyl. I don't like the way it looks. I think I would print on paper and have it single surface laminated to a thick semi-gloss plastic, and then rubber cement it to the cabinet. Kinkos doesn't have that kind of equipment. It will probably cost $100 a side to have it done at a service bureau.
Or maybe just print it on paper, glue it down, and protect it with semi-gloss polyurethane. If you do that, keep your sample, and test your finish on it first.
Bob
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Sounds expensive to have it done, especially if the mas market places liek Kinkos does not do this.... too bad, I don't want to spend that much just fort he side art. I was considering painting the sideart by hand but figured it would come out much better if I could do it in graphic design software.
Thanks for the input!
Doug
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http://www.angelfire.com/clone/mameart/
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Large format printing is a dark art. It has been discussed here numerous times.
Basically, you should talk to whoever will do the work first, and find out what their file format preferences are. If you care about what colors you actually get, print up a small sample first, because about the only certain thing is you won't be able to predict the output based on either your screen or your printer.
If you wan't to be able to look at the image from a couple feet away and think it's sharp, then you need about 100 to 150 dpi in the full sized artwork.
You can print on self adheasive vinyl. I don't like the way it looks. I think I would print on paper and have it single surface laminated to a thick semi-gloss plastic, and then rubber cement it to the cabinet. Kinkos doesn't have that kind of equipment. It will probably cost $100 a side to have it done at a service bureau.
Or maybe just print it on paper, glue it down, and protect it with semi-gloss polyurethane. If you do that, keep your sample, and test your finish on it first.
Bob
Has anyone here attempted the paper/laminate/rubber/cement or the paper/glue/polyurethane method?
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
Searcher7@mail.con2.com
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Has anyone here attempted the paper/laminate/rubber/cement or the paper/glue/polyurethane method?
Yep...
1UP's sideart (http://www.1uparcade.com/arcade-artwork.html)
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Someone should put together a FAQ for printing artwork :D Or does one exsist already? heheh
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Has anyone here attempted the paper/laminate/rubber/cement or the paper/glue/polyurethane method?
Yep...
1UP's sideart (http://www.1uparcade.com/arcade-artwork.html)
Yes, but has anyone actually compared what he did to the often talked about adhesive vinyl method?
I assume that his way is cheaper, but how does it look next to the more expensive ways of producing artwork?
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
Searcher7@mail.con2.com
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I am purchasing a 36" color plotter over the weekend...I will be using this plotter primarily for printing full-sized cutouts for my cabinet plans on www.mameroom.com (shameless plug).
I also purchased a 36" x 40' roll of HP adhesive vinyl to play around with for control panels/side art. It's my understanding that printing on this vinyl is just like printing on a piece of paper using an inkjet printer. The ink will run or smudge if wet. I'll be playing around with laminating and other sign-printing methods. It is my intention to custom print side art, marquees, etc...much lower than the competition. So far I've found places that will print full-sized side art (custom) for around $100-$150 per side. I plan on doing the same for 1/2 the price. I will have more info after the weekend. Check the www.mameroom.com website for future details on custom oversized printing.
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Has anyone here attempted the paper/laminate/rubber/cement or the paper/glue/polyurethane method?
Yep...
1UP's sideart (http://www.1uparcade.com/arcade-artwork.html)
What I did was have Kinkos print on regular paper (not gloss) and sprayed the printed side with several coats of Krylon acrylic clear coat. This gives a semi-gloss, protective finish that won't scratch easily and matches the finish of wood laminates.
Rather than rubber cement, I used Krylon spray adhesive. I would look for a stronger adhesive, as the artwork tends to keep bubbling and curling around the edges with the Krylon stuff... It would be difficult to spread rubber cement over such a large surface. Anyone know a good spray adhesive?
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I've used Krylon "Triple Thick" clear acrylic for artwork on pinball machines. It works great for this type of application and will save you several coats. Normally one coat will do nicely and give the same look as several coats of the normal Krylon acrylic.
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Anyone know a good spray adhesive?
Well, 3M invented the stuff. It's around 20 bucks a can up here but I've had nothing but good luck with it. 3M recommends coating both surfaces with it's product for a permanent bond. (much like contact cement) Since you're applying to laminate, the overspray would be cleaned off very easily with a goof off (or similar product) It's a little work but you'd never have to mess with it again. 3M's spray adhesive is the best sray glue I've ever used. (and I've used tons....)
I like 3m's Super 77.
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Has anyone here attempted the paper/laminate/rubber/cement or the paper/glue/polyurethane method?
Yep...
1UP's sideart (http://www.1uparcade.com/arcade-artwork.html)
What I did was have Kinkos print on regular paper (not gloss) and sprayed the printed side with several coats of Krylon acrylic clear coat. This gives a semi-gloss, protective finish that won't scratch easily and matches the finish of wood laminates.
snip
Okay, have you compared it to anyone's adhesive vinyl art project? And if you have, what are the differences you saw?
I realize that opinions are subjective, but does your artwork really have a "professional" look when viewing it in person?
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
Searcher7@mail.con2.com
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Printing on adhesive backed vinyl gives the least professional look. The printed surface tends to scratch fairly easy, and laminated vinyl also looks kind of cheesy.
You are better off to have your artwork reverse printed on something like 10 mil lexan, and then use spray adhesive to stick it down. This is much more durable and costs about the same if you find a printer that stocks lexan film.
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Printing on adhesive backed vinyl gives the least professional look. The printed surface tends to scratch fairly easy, and laminated vinyl also looks kind of cheesy.
You are better off to have your artwork reverse printed on something like 10 mil lexan, and then use spray adhesive to stick it down. This is much more durable and costs about the same if you find a printer that stocks lexan film.
You are talking about cabinet side-art, correct?
Usually when I hear lexan mentioned it is in reference to the marquee and/or the control panel.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
Searcher7@mail.con2.com