Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: arcadeboy0000 on June 20, 2005, 08:25:09 pm
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Has anyone had difficulty with products from Oscar Controls? I have a model 3 spinner and usb interface that does not work. I have tried many things to get it to work and it has been a while since I have had the spinner. When I contact them to be able to send the items back, they don't even get back to me. They even messed up my order by giving me the wrong spinner top. But I can't even get a return address from them. Has anyone else had bad experiences with Oscar Controls? Has anyone had success troubleshooting their Model 3 spinner?
???
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Kelsey is doing a lot of travel for his full-time job (not Oscar Controls) so has ordering on his site disabled at the moment.
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It's actually pretty hard to get anything from Oscar to NOT work.
Are you using his USB mouse hack to connect it?
Do you have a multi-meter to troubleshoot it with?
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I bought the USB interface that goes with the Model 3 spinner. The interesting thing is that windows sees another mouse device, it just never works. It is lined up perfectly as far as I can tell. Because of this, I think something is wrong with the spinner board and not the USB interface. As far as the multimeter, I don't haveone, but probably should. Its going on my list of things to pick up.
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Does it even move the cursor in Windows?
Do the optics on the PCB line up with the encoder wheel?
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SEEING the mouse, and having the mouse WORK, are two different things.
My first suspect would be a loose wire on the header, but it'll be almost impossible to troubleshoot without a multi-meter.
Try reseating all the wires on the cables themselves.
Try to lightly wiggle the headers on the mouse hack, to see if they are loose, and not getting a good signal through.
look for broken traces on the mouse hack PCB.
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Does it even move the cursor in Windows?
Do the optics on the PCB line up with the encoder wheel?
It does not move the cursor in windows even though it is recognized as a mouse device.
I have realigned the PCB a couple of times, but I am pretty sure its lined up correctly. The design of the wheel makes it almost impossible for the spokes of the wheel to not pass through correctly.
SEEING the mouse, and having the mouse WORK, are two different things.
My first suspect would be a loose wire on the header, but it'll be almost impossible to troubleshoot without a multi-meter.
Try reseating all the wires on the cables themselves.
Try to lightly wiggle the headers on the mouse hack, to see if they are loose, and not getting a good signal through.
look for broken traces on the mouse hack PCB.
Thanks for the suggestions, i'll be doing this in a little. Will report back later on today. Ill be picking up a multimeter later today too. Any suggestions on a useful one that wont run me too much over $50ish? (link me to a good one from radio shack so I can go pick it up!)
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btw, you should be able to test the optics by just spinning the wheel through it (without the spinner attached).
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Be sure to let Kelsey know what's going on. He will make things right for you as soon as he has time. He's always gone above and beyond for me.
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Any suggestions on a useful one that wont run me too much over $50ish? (link me to a good one from radio shack so I can go pick it up!)
I'm not a good one to ask.
Mine's about 20 years old, and is analog.
Basically, any digital multimeter that has a diode setting, and a continuity setting, would be fine.
You don't really need anything super fancy for arcade work.
You'll be reading AC/DC voltages, and continuity, more than anything.
You want to know that whatever you're working on is getting proper voltage, and that the buttons/etc... are opening/closing properly.
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You can find an average multimeter at a hardward store for about $25. I passed on one with digital and analog readouts for about $35. I prefer analog over digital, and those units tend to be less expensive.
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If the computer is accepting the USB interface as a mouse device, then it is likely the USB interface is working properly. Kelsey usually tests each of the optic boards before he sends them out, but as stated he has been busy lately and maybe didn't have time to check it. He will more than likely send you a replacement optic board once he gets your message, as that seems the likely culprit. Don't worry.
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Any cheap digital multimeter is ok. $15
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I received a PM that said
Make sure your optic board is attached to the outside of the metal support.