Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: marcopolo on December 11, 2002, 10:25:33 pm
-
Anyone know of any websites, besides Radio$hack.com, that sell eletronic components such as terminal blocks, crimp connectors, stranded wire, etc??
-
You did not specify where in the world you are located but here are a bunch of US websites.
Jameco Electronics www.jameco.com (http://www.jameco.com)
Electronix Express www.elexp.com (http://www.elexp.com)
All Electronics www.allcorp.com (http://www.allcorp.com)
Digikey www.digikey.com (http://www.digikey.com)
and of course
The Real Bob Roberts
http://www.dameon.net/BBBB/siteindex.html (http://www.dameon.net/BBBB/siteindex.html)
Just some of many
BobA
-
www.digikey.com
www.mouser.com
www.newark.com
www.partsexpress.com
I've purchased from all of the above (as well as others I can't think of right now). Mouser and Newark have the friendliest customer service.
Call Newark if you want to hear a NJ accent answer the phone. Or call Mouser if you prefer the southern drawl. ;D
-
Hey Oscar!
I bought a spinner off you. It's great. Thanks.
I have a question for you. I also read your page on building the opti-board for a wheel.
http://www.oscarcontrols.com/projects/steeringwheel2.htm
I found a used wheel and built the thing just as you show with the optical switches from Newark Electronics .
I can't get it to work like a mouse wheel though! It just stutters a little.
The wheel on the steering column is exactly the same as the one on your spinners. It is also lined up with the optical switches just as the spinner.
The only difference I can see is the size of the resistors I used. I have a much larger 220 Ohm resistor then the one on your spinner board.
Plus I also noticed on the cable that came with the spinner has two more resistors on the end by the ME4 encoder connecting the X1 and X2 lines to the 5v line through a 1k resistor????
I also tried this on my cable and used 1/4 watt 1k resistors. It still won't work. These are also much larger than your resistors.
1.) What wattage are the ones you use?
2.) What can I do with a multi-meter to see if my board works correctly? Or test if the opti-switches are functional?
3.) What would you charge just for an opti-board and cabling.
I would really like to use my wheel.
Thanks in advance for any help.
P.S.
Here's a shot of my controller with your spinner in use. You build the best spinners!
http://www.arcadiasystem.com/controllers.html
-
First, apologies to marcopolo for the thread hi-jack... :)
All of Hagstrom's mouse encoders require pull-up resistors on the optics. These are the 1K resistors the connect the signal wires to the +5V input. I use 1/8 W metal film resistors which are about 1/3 the size of a 1/4 W carbon resistor, which is probably what you used. Your optic circuit will not work with the ME4 without these pull-ups.
If you are experiencing a only a slight stutter movement, then this is a good indication of a blown phototransistor. With your optic board connected to the ME4, you should be able to measure ~4.5V between the +5V lead and the A3/B3 signal inputs when the phototransistors are "closed" (nothing blocking them). Place something between the emmitter/detector pairs (piece of black paper) to "open" the circuit, and then you should be able to measure about 1.5V between the +5V and A3/B3 leads. If your measurements are much less, then the the transistors are most likely fried.
The new Model 3/Pro optic boards include pull-up resistors and work with Hagstrom encoders without adding any more components to the circuit. Email me to purchase just the optic board.
Please feel free to contact me if you have any more problems with your steering wheel hack, I'm happy to help.
-Kelsey
p.s. - Thanks for letting me know you are happy with your spinner! :)
-
I'm in NY.
You did not specify where in the world you are located but here are a bunch of US websites.
Jameco Electronics www.jameco.com (http://www.jameco.com)
Electronix Express www.elexp.com (http://www.elexp.com)
All Electronics www.allcorp.com (http://www.allcorp.com)
Digikey www.digikey.com (http://www.digikey.com)
and of course
The Real Bob Roberts
http://www.dameon.net/BBBB/siteindex.html (http://www.dameon.net/BBBB/siteindex.html)
Just some of many
BobA
-
order bob roberts....very easy to deal with..great product,fair price and fast shiping(was quite fast then usual as the dude sent before he actually received the MO,SEE...people trust me :)).
I am in NY too...we are NY mamers okay ;).
-
digikey is a GREAT place! Too bad I also have to pay sales tax for it!
-
Anyone know any places in Canada?
-
First, apologies to marcopolo for the thread hi-jack... :)
All of Hagstrom's mouse encoders require pull-up resistors on the optics. These are the 1K resistors the connect the signal wires to the +5V input. I use 1/8 W metal film resistors which are about 1/3 the size of a 1/4 W carbon resistor, which is probably what you used. Your optic circuit will not work with the ME4 without these pull-ups.
If you are experiencing a only a slight stutter movement, then this is a good indication of a blown phototransistor. With your optic board connected to the ME4, you should be able to measure ~4.5V between the +5V lead and the A3/B3 signal inputs when the phototransistors are "closed" (nothing blocking them). Place something between the emmitter/detector pairs (piece of black paper) to "open" the circuit, and then you should be able to measure about 1.5V between the +5V and A3/B3 leads. If your measurements are much less, then the the transistors are most likely fried.
The new Model 3/Pro optic boards include pull-up resistors and work with Hagstrom encoders without adding any more components to the circuit. Email me to purchase just the optic board.
Please feel free to contact me if you have any more problems with your steering wheel hack, I'm happy to help.
-Kelsey
p.s. - Thanks for letting me know you are happy with your spinner! :)
My apologies also.
And thanks Oscar.
I bought six phototransistors in case I fried a few in the learning process. ;)