Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: ninjazx7 on December 03, 2002, 02:15:32 pm
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Hey guys, I just received my new switching power supply. I am a little confused though. There is no cord or anything that gets plugged into the wall. The following is what I have....
http://www.dameon.net/BBBB/ps.jpg (http://www.dameon.net/BBBB/ps.jpg)
Do I just need to hack apart an extension cord or something and attach it to the bottom 3 hookups?
Any help is much appreciated so I don't blow myself up. :-)
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What are you going to use this for? Oviously your not going to replace and existing PS that has a Arcade Game boasrds installed. Just wondering what is it for (lights, Joysticks etvc..) ?
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What are you going to use this for? Oviously your not going to replace and existing PS that has a Arcade Game boasrds installed. Just wondering what is it for (lights, Joysticks etvc..) ?
Sorry, I should have been more descriptive. I am building a JAMMA cabinet. The main thing I need the power supply for is to power the PCBs that I have. I may wire up some lights to it also, but not sure. The unit doesn't have any wires coming out of it, it just has the connectors with the screws and I don't see how to get the power into the supply.
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http://www.dameon.net/BBBB/buildit.html
http://www.hardmvs.com/html/powerBoard.htm
(they're basically the same thing, the second one is more detailed)
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That stuff up above is nice and all, but if you're really itching to get it running, you can hack up an extension or an old monitor cord. When I first got my JAMMA up and running I did that. It worked fine.
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That stuff up above is nice and all, but if you're really itching to get it running, you can hack up an extension or an old monitor cord. When I first got my JAMMA up and running I did that. It worked fine.
Hey wee beastie....did you do anything special? Do you remember which wires you connected where? Also, did you leave it this way, or did you finally set everything up with the isolation transformer and stuff?
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According to the diagram you linked to on Bob Robert's site, you would hack a 3 prong AC extension cord and hook the 2 main wires to the 2 terminals marked "AC". The third ground wire connects to the terminal marked "FG".
Bob roberts has a bunch of other stuff connected between the cord and the powersupply (fuse, line filter, on/off switch, dist. block) but this is the down and dirty method if you don't have/aren't using that stuff.
Be aware that the power supply will be "ON" as long as the cord is plugged into the wall. The only way to turn it off is to unplug it or wire in a switch. Bob's diagram was excellent in showing how to wire everything properly. I suggest you study and invite someone over who is more knowledge to help you if you are having trouble understanding it.
Good luck!
One important note: If you are actually using this to power a jamma cabinet and it has the original arcade monitor then I believe you HAVE to use an isolation transformer or you're in for serious trouble. I think the monitor's chassis ends up being "hot" at all times without it... VERY dangerous...
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_Iz- --- I will actually be using a TV instead of an actual arcade monitor. Without the isolation transformer, do you think the PCB itself will be alright?
Instead of hooking everything up like the diagram says, do you think it's possible to hook up a computer power supply instead of the fuse, transformer, etc.?
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I will actually be using a TV instead of an actual arcade monitor. Without the isolation transformer, do you think the PCB itself will be alright?
The iso transformer is only needed if you have an arcade monitor. Actually, some newer monitors (e.g. the Hantarex ones) don't even need it...
Instead of hooking everything up like the diagram says, do you think it's possible to hook up a computer power supply instead of the fuse, transformer, etc.?
heh...PCB's on TV = supergun
Of course you can use a PC PSU (better if AT type) but you won't be able to adjust the voltage with that. Also, it wouldn't be a bad idea to insert fuses in the +5v and +12v lines (10A and 2A respectively) as the amperages of a PC PSU are much higher than those of an arcade PSU, so better safe than sorry...
Note that unless you live in Europe (where RGB TV's are widely available) you'll need a RGB->NTSC converter to get it to work on a US TV...
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you probably figured it out, but I stumbled across this tonighthttp://www.mameworld.net/massive/How-to/Cabinet_Extras/cabinet_extras.html (http://www.mameworld.net/massive/How-to/Cabinet_Extras/cabinet_extras.html)
picture and description
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MKL.... I found a RGB-->NTSC convertor, so I'm not worried about that.
gtjoe.... Thanks alot for that site, it'll help alot.
Anybody else have any info?
Thanks.