Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Arcade Collecting => Restorations & repair => Topic started by: rchadd on May 16, 2005, 07:50:32 am
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Just purchased this half completed restoration project on ebay.co.uk
I now need to organize means of
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more pics
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Nice project..!!
Any chance of a shot of the BACK of the cabinet..?
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Nice project..!!
Any chance of a shot of the BACK of the cabinet..?
will post more pics when i have picked it up
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Well that CP is shot. I wouldn't waste my time trying to cover it up. The cab, itself, looks pretty good though!
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yesterday i saw another centipede machine (caberet style) on ebay.co.uk and contacted the seller on the chance that he might have some parts.
luckilly he has passed me onto another guy in the UK that has:
- perspex bezel with scratch :(
- blue cardboard monitor surround
- control panel
- leafswitch fire button
its a shame about the bezel being scratched - i thought the bezel would be glass anyway.
he has advised that should be able to polish the scratch out of the perspex. Is that true?
I'm still looking for a trackball and a CPO.... so contact me if you have one!
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looks like a good project.
you might get the scratch out with jewelers rouge but don't take my word on it lol.hope to see more pics when you start project.
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looks like a good project.
you might get the scratch out with jewelers rouge but don't take my word on it lol.hope to see more pics when you start project.
i might just get repro bezel graphics shipped from aradeshop at same time as CPO and the source glass locally here in the UK.
new glass has got to look better than polished out scratched perspex - and no chance of more scratches in the future.
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ordered a 2 1/4" imperial trackball from ebay seller for $49 shipped
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Nice project..!!
Any chance of a shot of the BACK of the cabinet..?
heres some pics
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top
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Heehee.. you knew EXACTLY what I wanted a picture of didn't you..! ;D
Thanks for that rchadd
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Heehee.. you knew EXACTLY what I wanted a picture of didn't you..!
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today i made myself a new paper bezel
i managed to acquire an original one but it was in rather poor state - i had a go at making a replica using posterboard that i purchase from a local art supplies shop.
unfortunately there is not a colour match with the original bezel - wrong shade of blue and matt not glossy. i am thinking that i might try and find a suitable spray paint (gloss royal blue). or i might just leave as it is because it look ok in my opinion - if 100% authentic
i was really surprised how well the bezel came out - i will now have a try at making one for my cocktail cab. much cheaper than a plastic one from happs.
you can see my new coindoor in the background - it looks great but need to get some UK coin mechs and better reject buttons
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here is the plexi bezel - artwork is good but there are scratches in the plexi that needs to be polished out.
also the original monitor surround - i disassembled it to act as template for my reproduction one
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here is the back of the original centipede coindoor
currently has 1 & 2 deutsche marck mechs (now defunct coinage) - need to get current UK coinage mechs
has slam switch, lamps and coin counters :)
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Good project rchadd, nice to see you are restoring it!
Good luck :)
OT there is a nicely restored Centipede cab (although running Millipede IIRC) in a nightclub in Brighton, looks like it has repro artwork etc...dunno why I mentioned that, other than because it is unusual to see a classic restored cab in public use nowadays...
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Good project rchadd, nice to see you are restoring it!
Good luck :)
OT there is a nicely restored Centipede cab (although running Millipede IIRC) in a nightclub in Brighton, looks like it has repro artwork etc...dunno why I mentioned that, other than because it is unusual to see a classic restored cab in public use nowadays...
thanks
i always wondered whether there was a demand for classic cabs in pubs and clubs these days. Does it get much use? (or abuse???)
I've got a track and field pcb and was thinking about building a repro 4 player table and approaching a local pub/club owner on 50:50 split basis. figured it might go down well being a competitive group game.
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i always wondered whether there was a demand for classic cabs in pubs and clubs these days. Does it get much use? (or abuse???)
I've got a track and field pcb and was thinking about building a repro 4 player table and approaching a local pub/club owner on 50:50 split basis. figured it might go down well being a competitive group game.
I think it got a fair bit of play judging by the hiscore table (there were some good scores on there too). That said I didn't see too many people playing on it, but then I have only been there once!
I reckon any tabletop would go down pretty well in a pub for the right price...I'd love to see a T&F in my local!
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control panel stripped and primed, painted down sides and around holes that might be visible when cpo fitted with satin black
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fitted cpo from arcaderenovations.com (fantastic quality and only $30!)
fitted new trackball, fire button and start buttons
looking good
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purchased complete wiring harness from US after posting message on usegroup rec.games.video.arcade.marketplace
will try and test ar2 power board tomorrow
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Keep up the progress reports! I have always wanted a Centipede, and when I finish my current cab, I might just pick up a "project" like yours! (Definitely more affordable than buying a restored or reproduction one!)
-- Chris
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Could you post a low res scan of the blue bezel? I would like to make one as well but I am having trouble finding a source to copy.
Thanks!
-Tom
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Could you post a low res scan of the blue bezel?
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here is a photo of the bezel
here are the measurements. sorry dont have anything to measure the angles. if you want amy other measurements please let me know.
note that you need to score the card either on the front or the back in certain places in order for it to fold correctly to give required shape. pay attention to photo above for idea on how it should look.
A=56.5cm
B=54cm
C=19cm
D=49.5cm
E=16.5cm
F=16.5cm
G=4.5cm
H=56cm
i=54cm
J=16.5cm
K=49.5cm
L=19cm
M=19cm
N=12cm
P=14.3cm
Q=8cm
R=14.3cm
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Thank you very much!
-Tom
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Could you measure the length on the inside corners? (the edge that is against the tube)
I guess it would be from the bottom of "L" to the bottom of "J", etc... With this measurement, I can get the correct angle. Also, I am assuming the lip is 2.75cm with the exception of the long lip that is 4.5cm.
Thanks again for all your help. For some reason, I just can't bring myself to buy the Arcadeshop repro!!
-Tom
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Could you measure the length on the inside corners? (the edge that is against the tube)
I guess it would be from the bottom of "L" to the bottom of "J", etc...
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fitted control panel and coin door
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Wow -- looks great!!! It looks like your coin door might need a coat of paint, though. (Unless that's just the lighting in the photos.)
-- Chris
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Wow -- looks great!!! It looks like your coin door might need a coat of paint, though. (Unless that's just the lighting in the photos.)
-- Chris
its a rare stainless silver one! it needs polishing though
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its a rare stainless silver one! it needs polishing though
Come to Australia.. there are stacks of them here - not sure why tho..?
Looks bloody awesome too btw..!!!
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its a rare stainless silver one! it needs polishing though
Wow -- that's cool! I don't ever remember coming across one of those! (But then, I was more concerned about playing the games in those dark arcades than in looking at the coin doors...)
-- Chris
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i just been testing my ebay untested AR2 board and happily it all seems to be working
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connected up the game board and tested the voltages
here are the readings
test point = reading
+5V = 5.10
+22V = 25.6
-22V = -25.9
-15V = -15.0
-30V = -26.8
-5V = -5.17
+12V = 12.32
not sure if these are ok (within acceptable range)
havent connected up to a monitor yet so unable to figure out if it is working ok
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You could try to tweak some of those adjustments to get them closer. The -30 that's only a -26.8 on your machine may be ok. Those numbers kinda bother me but I'm sure someone else will know for sure.
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looks like your psu and boards could use a bit of a cleaning, and i would try to get the voltages as close as possible to what there supposed to be with a load on the psu.
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Those readings (under load) don't seem to bad but I would, as matter of course, replace all the electrolytic caps on the PSU board as they most likely be dried out by now..
The most important voltage is the +5 volt rail which can be adjusted via AR2.
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Ripped out the jamma wiring/psu that was installed in the machine by previous owner.
Fitted the transformer, PSU and Game boards. Started to rewire using 100% complete wiring loom.
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just learned that the Euro monitor bezel that i have is different to the US version. It has red bugs and mushroom, the US version has Green ones.
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nearly completed fitting everything inside - just a little more tidying is required
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couldnt resist a test
theres something strange going on with the sync - tried adjusting the pots on the remote board of the hantarex monitor but could not get the monitor to sync. scrolling of the screen was uncontrollable.
any ideas what could be wrong?
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fixed the display simply by switching the monitor form negative to positive sync. there is a toggle switch on the chassis pcb :)
set dips switches so game in free play mode.
test played and number of minor issues appear:
1. loose ground connection in the control panel wiring - sometimes buttons suddenly stop working. wriggling the molex connectors can get it working again.
2. constant beeping when coin door harness connected. need to double check wiring hack/soldering. disconnected coindoor temporarily - not a problem as in freeplay mode.
3. vertical movement of the trackball is reversed - simply resolved by crossing over yellow/green wires on the trackball harness wiring.
4. volume pot does not seem to make any affect on the volume
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need to check my wiring harness hack for the coindoor - it causes constant beeping when connected!
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i think i can now consider the project as finished!
looking pretty good i think
only outstanding issue is the monitor degaussing is not working. identified that the fuse has blown. hopefully after i replace it it will automatically degauss on startup.
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close ups
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tidied up internals
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fixed the degaussing issue.
project officially completed!
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GREAT Restoration, really clean.
I have been dying to restore a Centipede, I need to keep my eyes open for one.
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Just awesome. You gotta be proud of this.
So what's next? :)