Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: wallyworld on April 29, 2005, 02:45:35 am
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I'm a newbie who's thinking down the road to building my own 4-Player (Quad) Contol Panel, and I'd love to see photos of what you folks have built and hear about how happy you are (or are not) with the layout and controls you chose. Show and tell me what you did right, and what you'd do differently... Thanks!!!
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Heres mine:-
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/CP.jpg)
Two Ultimarc T-Stick Plus's (PL 1 + 2)
Two Happ Rotaries with custom turned 'sticks (PL 3 + 4, also doubles up as PL 1 + 2 for rotary games)
The T-Sticks rock in my opinion. Not everyones view but I am really happy with them.
I would have liked a trackball + spinner but I dont play many games that require them. The CP is inter-changeable so I may add a dedicated trakball/ spinner CP at a later date.
Im changing the button bezels to white this week on the top row of player 1 + 2 buttons to make it more obvious that they are the Neo-Geo buttons.
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My old one, using UA2 base design modified on Slikstik Quad. I am in the process of remaking my cp however. The dedicated 4 way was a bad idea, too many buttons on p3 and p4.
I have 2x 49-ways with randys hardware, that will be used for 1st and 2nd player joys- and usable as 49way , 8way , 4way , and 4way diagonal. Players 3 and 4 are going to 4 buttons each (in two offset rows). I have 2x LS-30s with druins hardware. The spinner is moving down closer to p1 joy (slightly to the left of the stick) and will be using p1 buttons instead of having dedicated ones. recessed stainless cup holders from pokerchest.com will be added in.
I tried to "hide" my admin buttons. The two on the left of the 4 way were L/R mouse buttons and two on left of spinner were escape/ shift. That got too confusing so Im adding one single admin button at the top by the start buttons to help- probably an escape button. Im also adding two boom N64 adapters for PJ64 games. Trackball will stay in the same place and will be laminated again. Ill post pics when I get them. Coincidently I will be selling this board when Im done- all 8 ways, 4 way, some buttons and trackball mounting plate (removing these requires delaminating the surface)
Tek
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(http://webpages.charter.net/cablehaven/ArcadePics2/panel3.jpg)
This is still a WIP as we speak.
I am VERY happy with the way it is turning out.
Things I did right (In my eyes)
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I'm curious about putting all 4 players in a straight line as opposed to angling p3 and p4. Every time I see it I think that 4 people in a row would be too tight, particularly if one of them is "less than thin" ;D.
Any thoughts on that?
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The only good thing about putting all the joys in a straight line is it makes life easier if you want to play any dual joystick games. Karate Champ, Smash TV, Robotron. As you have only 4 joys instead of 6.
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(http://ldgonzales.home.comcast.net/cpanel.jpg)
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Very cool, versa! Are those pinball buttons comfortable to push, or are they farther apart than would be ideal?
Are those speakers on the front side? It's hard to make it out.
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I made this last summer and had it photographed. I'm pretty happy with my work, but I still don't think it made sense for me to put 7 buttons on the 3 and 4 player controls. Oh, well live and learn.
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Very cool, versa! Are those pinball buttons comfortable to push, or are they farther apart than would be ideal?
Are those speakers on the front side? It's hard to make it out.
The pinball buttons are very comfortable actually. I rest my hands on the front corners, which are spaced 31" apart, and the buttons are very easily pressed from that positioning.
My cabinet is home to an Xbox, and what you see on the front are the memory card/xbox live communicator ports.
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Yes, Versapak, very slick lookin
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Here is my WIP 4 - player panel.
(http://homepages.ucalgary.ca/~mmacdona/cpanel.jpg)
This setup was just a test using some wood I had around the house.
Things I like:
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I made this last summer and had it photographed.
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Here's mine. A little less width (38" wide).
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Saaaweeeeeet Markrvp!!!!
You can see me Nuts (oo-er) in all there backwards supporting glory on the 1st reply! ;D
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Saaaweeeeeet Markrvp!!!!
You can see me Nuts (oo-er) in all there backwards supporting glory on the 1st reply!
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Here's mine.
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Thanks markrvp, but I must bow down to you. I'm gonna call you Victor from now on. Geddit'? ;)
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I built my cabinet with 2 games in mind:
SmashTV
Crystal Castles.
For SmashTV the player 3 & 4 joysticks *have* to line up straight with player 1 & 2. None of this angled out shite. Although daveg2000's design works as well (but would be way too big on my cabinet). My design looks like it might be crowded, but it's worked out great playing 4 player Sunset Riders.
Franco, I'm curious. Your Player 3 & 4 joysticks appear to line up straight. Although I imagine "Up" for them is at an angle to Player 1 & 2 joysticks. But can you remap SmashTV so that "Up" is actually "Diagonal up" or whatever angle would be equivalent to Player 1's up? That would allow you to remap the 2 joystick games and give your player 3 & 4 people more space.
Mine (note the pinball plunger!):
(http://www.singleclick.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core:DownloadItem&g2_itemId=38828)
Mine is based, loosely, on Jakobud's:
(http://www.jakobud.com/images/mamecab/cp_front_med.jpg)
You can download plans for Jakobud's here:
http://www.jakobud.com/
Joseph Elwell.
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Looks cool! I'm planning on building mine based on parts of jakobud's, and parts of UAII. Mostly just using UAII for some dimensions.
I was going to do a 48" panel but I think I'll actually shave it down to 47.5 or something, just to allow for material widths not matching up... unless my Lexan and MDF both end up perfectly 48".
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Here's mine. A little less width (38" wide).
I was planning to build my 4 player panel off of the SlikStik Quad
but you have some cool ideas going on here too dude
Looks like I'm going to have to borrow a bit from both ;D
So back to an earlier reply.. does it make ANY sense to have 7 buttons for players 3 and 4?
Is it better to angle players 3 and 4 so as to conserve space and looks or would it be better to line them all up so that you could play the few 2 player dual joystick games?
Is it better to have your start buttons across the top of the panel or grouped with the sticks?
I'll be using 4- 49ways a spinner and a trackball
I hadn't thought about a tron stick :o
If anyone has any ideas on how to improve the SlikStick Quad or markrvp's CP please share
(drawings would be nice) ;)
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My 2 cents:
I've played the angled CP (my buddy has a UA II) and it gives everyone some more breathing room that I believe would be absent when all 4 are in a row.
While I haven't tried it in person, I think the player 3/4 sticks might not be so far away that you still couldn't play Smash TV.
I also prefer the admin buttons up at the top, since you are going to have to have some up there anyway, why not all the ones that don't have to do with playing the game?
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As long as you are playing single player (or alternating player games) my spacing for Player 1 & 2 joys is great for playing Robotron, Crazy Climber, Smash TV.
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Not the greatest photo (you can't really see the trackball. The eventual plan is to add dual spinners to it. I'm mostly happy with the layout. However, if I had it to do again, I'd angle the 3 & 4 player controls more and cut them down to only 4 buttons each.
(http://www.pezchasers.net/arcade/pictures/cpfinish.jpg)
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Well.. with the 49 ways could you reorient the orientation (that doesn't sound just right)
so that you could play smash tv on an angle?
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Well.. with the 49 ways could you reorient the orientation (that doesn't sound just right)
so that you could play smash tv on an angle?
YES!
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the only problem I see for you is that your sticks don't seem to be running on the same angles
or is it just the picture?
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You know.. i need to get someone around Topeka KS, to build me a nicer 2 player one.. id spring for the wood and such, and booze if one were wanting a drink or three.. i mean, id help too, but i just lack the over all skill to do it.. :(
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If you ever get down to the Dallas area look me up.
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If you ever get down to the Dallas area look me up.
You know, its funny, you're style is the style id want too..
DAMNIT! i hate living in kansas..
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Well.. with the 49 ways could you reorient the orientation (that doesn't sound just right)
so that you could play smash tv on an angle?
YES! GOOD IDEA!
The Diagonals setting should work nicely as I have the player 3 & 4 joysticks rotated at exactly 45 degrees. You would just need to map it in Mame the first time you play.
I just started fooling around with placing the sticks in line with one another and on a 45 degree angle from one another so that the 49ways can be reprogrammed for dual SMASH TV setup
Does this look too goofy?
(http://img146.echo.cx/img146/8260/492bc.jpg) (http://img146.echo.cx/img146/8260/492bc.jpg)
This is just "eyeballed" right now.
Once we get a good layout I'll measure it more precisely.
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I notice some people have 3 buttons above their TB...isn't this awkward for playing games...why not just use the player 1 buttons? Is there something I'm missing??
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Wow! I really don't think that i have the skill to build any of these. Some of these just blow my mind...
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My 2 cents:
I've played the angled CP (my buddy has a UA II) and it gives everyone some more breathing room that I believe would be absent when all 4 are in a row.
eh, i prefer crowds anyways.
While I haven't tried it in person, I think the player 3/4 sticks might not be so far away that you still couldn't play Smash TV.
Seriously, it will *NOT* work unless you put a whole lot of care into your 3/4 stick placements. And then even then I'd be concerned that it wouldn't work. The problem is the standard wing formation means that "UP" for player 4 is not parallel to players 2's "UP". Could you imagine playing Smash TV and pressing both controllers the same physical direction and ending up with two different directions in the game? I'm not sure you can even map the controls, in MAME, to fix this since "UP" would actually be an angle (two microswitches contacting). Which is harder to hit than a normal "UP". Not to mention that the feel would just be all wrong.
I'd still like to hear from Franco on whether he's mapped his cabinet up for 2 player Smash TV.
Joseph Elwell.
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That's why Mark and I started talking about using the 49-way sticks.
As long as sticks 1&3 and 2&4 are in line with one another on perfect 45 degree angles you can
reprogram sticks 1 and 2 to work on the same angles as 3 and 4 8)
look at my picture and imagine each player standing in player 3 and 4 position with sticks 1 and 2 re-programed for angled play
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(http://www.taffe.us/Upload/ctaffe/2005-03-12-IMG_0398.JPG)
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Quote from: Veinman on April 29, 2005, 11:32:17 PM
While I haven't tried it in person, I think the player 3/4 sticks might not be so far away that you still couldn't play Smash TV.
Seriously, it will *NOT* work unless you put a whole lot of care into your 3/4 stick placements.
Joseph:
I really respect you from other posts you've made, but you're talking out of your ass on this one. I have a 49-way with a GP-Wiz 49 that I have correctly mapped for diagonals. See my post yesterday Re: Q-bert in the GP-Wiz 49 way thread. The digital restriction for diagonals with a generous grid makes it WAY F'KNG EASY to hit diagonals as that is the only thing that will register.
IA, good job. All it takes is putting the player 1 & player 2 joysticks in diagonals mode (GP-Wiz 49) and mapping it in MAME.
See here:
I had to put player 4 deeper into the CP to make this work out
I'd like some opinions on that
and also the optimum spacing between sticks
and the preferred amount of space between the controls and the edge of the CP
i left the trackball centered for now
do you think it should stay centered?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=36073.0;id=12887;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=36073.0;id=12887;image)
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Leave the trackball right where it is. Move the spinner up a couple of inches so you don't hit in during Golden Tee Golf.
You might also put the Trackball 1 & 2 buttons at the high left and right of the trackball plate.
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When I said that angled p3 and p4 would work for Smash TV, I wasn't thinking about how the sticks are oriented at an angle as well.
As mentioned, this can apparently be overcome with 49-way sticks, but for standard sticks...I was wrong.
So..this means that I likely won't be getting any co-op action on Smash TV on my cab, but oh well. I can still play by myself with P1 and P2. :)
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I can group player 2 and 4 and move them more to the right (plenty of space there)
but I was just worried about keeping a sort of overall balance to the CP
I guess it won't hurt to see what it looks like...
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I notice some people have 3 buttons above their TB...isn't this awkward for playing games...why not just use the player 1 buttons?
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but oh well. I can still play by myself with P1 and P2. :)
I really like playing with myself. Um. . . I mean . . . by myself. ;)
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OK
I moved things around a bit so that P4 won't have to reach as far
but maybe P2's blue buttons are getting a bit too close to the edge ???
moved the trackball and spinner around a little too.. just checking..
oh, and how many buttons do I really need for the trackball anyway?
BEFORE
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=36073.0;id=12887;image)
AFTER
(http://img138.echo.cx/img138/7904/24uk.jpg) (http://img138.echo.cx/img138/7904/24uk.jpg)
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Oops, I was talking out of my own arse.
You won't use diagonals mode, you will use 8-way mode for all joysticks. You will need to map Player 1 & 2 Joys so that UP actually equals UP+RIGHT and so forth, but it will still work perfectly because the 8 way zones are very even on the 49-ways.
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Here's mine. A little less width (38" wide).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=36073.0;id=12619;image)
How far apart are your player 2 and 4 sticks?
Does your player 2 stick get in the way of the trackball?
that's a 48" template I'm working on
I'm amazed that you squeezed all of that into 38"
do you recommend I try to do the same?
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OK.. here's my first attempt to trim it down to 38" wide and still keep the sticks lined up on a 45 degree angle for 49way smashtv
(http://img197.echo.cx/img197/1262/382kl.jpg) (http://img197.echo.cx/img197/1262/382kl.jpg)
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What type of box will the top panel be mounted to? Draw out the wood frame for the box as an overlay and let's make sure there is clearance.
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I had a similar setup.
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I had a similar setup.
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You won't use diagonals mode, you will use 8-way mode for all joysticks. You will need to map Player 1 & 2 Joys so that UP actually equals UP+RIGHT and so forth, but it will still work perfectly because the 8 way zones are very even on the 49-ways.
It's going to take ALOT more programming than that to make this work properly.
As you have it, you will have either a 4-way stick (provided you use Q*Bert mode), or you will have HUGE deadspots on the original directions.
If UP=Up-Right, and LEFT=Up-Left, then the joystick will send no usable signal when only the Up switch is pressed.
I'm not completely sure that the following mapping will work because I haven't tested it, but it should.
It should also work on any 8-way stick--if it DOES work.
You need to map the inputs as follows:
NOTE: Red are MAME inputs, Green are Joystick inputs.
UP=(Up NOT Up-Left) OR Up-Right OR (Right NOT Right-Down)
LEFT=(Left NOT Left-Down) OR Up-Left OR (Up NOT Up-Right)
DOWN=(Down NOT Down-Right) OR Down-Left OR (Left NOT Left-Up)
RIGHT=(Right NOT Right-Up) OR Down-Right OR (Down NOT Down-Left)
Using this mapping, the original cardinal directions SHOULD send signals to 2 separate inputs (i.e. Up SHOULD trigger both the UP command, and the LEFT command).
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...still trimming
this is about 38"x20"
will build box to suit
(http://img179.echo.cx/img179/5092/38207gc.jpg) (http://img179.echo.cx/img179/5092/38207gc.jpg)
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I had a similar setup.
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You won't use diagonals mode, you will use 8-way mode for all joysticks.
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Here's 38"x20" with frame
..had to move things around a bit more
maybe I should add a few inches width ..
i'm worried about the trackball placement for one thing
(http://img213.echo.cx/img213/8288/3820b9qj.jpg) (http://img213.echo.cx/img213/8288/3820b9qj.jpg)
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I would probably never try this with regular joysticks that use switches, but I think it is going to work with the GP-Wiz 49 & 49-way joysticks.
That is exactly how the 49-way appears to MAME when using 8-way DRS mode, like you mentioned above.
I'm going to try the mapping I posted above, and see if it works.
Let me know what you find out with the analog settings.
My gut feel is that they aren't going to work either, for the same reasons mentioned above.
(X-axis=+/Y-axis=0) will have no mapping, and probably create a dead spot.
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somebody get Randy over here!
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Here's tested mappings.
I was able to simplify them once I got to testing.
UP=(Up NOT Left) OR (Right NOT Down)
LEFT=(Left NOT Down) OR (Up NOT Right)
DOWN=(Down NOT Right) OR (Left NOT Up)
RIGHT=(Right NOT Up) OR (Down NOT Left)
This will work with any 8-way stick, but will work best with round restricted sticks (Wicos/Monroes/P-360/49-way DRS)
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Here's tested mappings.
I was able to simplify them once I got to testing.
UP=(Up NOT Left) OR (Right NOT Down)
LEFT=(Left NOT Down) OR (Up NOT Right)
DOWN=(Down NOT Right) OR (Left NOT Up)
RIGHT=(Right NOT Up) OR (Down NOT Left)
This will work with any 8-way stick, but will work best with round restricted sticks (Wicos/Monroes/P-360/49-way DRS)
Good job.
How do I map that in MAME with the 49-way and GP-Wiz 49?
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See the thread I just started about this.
Make sure you are using the 8-way DRS mode, when you do the mappings.
Or, easier yet, use the keyboard to do it.
That way you don't accidentally hit two switches at once.
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Just replied with a new question in new thread.
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(http://www3.sympatico.ca/rawker/arcade/3.jpg)
(http://www3.sympatico.ca/rawker/arcade/5.jpg)
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Iam very pleased with this layout.
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Here's mine:
(http://www.ogredog.com/images/MAME%20Construction/CP%20Complete.jpg)
I've just completed my control panel construction webpage:
http://www.ogredog.com/mame_cp_construction.htm
My on-going cabinet construction thread / web page link are here:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,36000.0.html
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That's why Mark and I started talking about using the 49-way sticks.
As long as sticks 1&3 and 2&4 are in line with one another on perfect 45 degree angles you can
reprogram sticks 1 and 2 to work on the same angles as 3 and 4
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Oh well. Now I'm wondering what games point "UP" like gauntlet for the edge players and what games re-angle "UP" to be parallel to the player.
How are the Quad slik sticks mapped? Does everyone fix "UP" to point directly to their monitor despite the flare on the sides?
There are many threads on this, the 4-player arcade games had their joysticks pointing in the same direction, UP towards the monitor. Almost all of them were either rectangular or squarish in shape.
Many builders here have control panels with 45 degree angles for players 3 and 4 and many have also angled those joysticks at 45 degrees so that moving UP is in relation to their stance. There are a lot of people who are happy with this design.
I think it depends on the shape of the control panel, if it's rectangular have the joysticks pointing towards the monitor. If it has 45 degree angles then angle the joysticks at 45 degrees. In the end, it's your control panel, build it so it feels right to you. BTW, the SlikStik has their joysticks mounted at 45 degrees for P3 and P4.
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One advantage of a 4 player control panel with all sticks "up" towards the same direction (monitor) is that the "4-player" panel is also useful for 2 player, 2-stick games.
When I first layed out my panel, I aimed the 1st and 4th stick at 45 degrees on the prototype. That's one od the major things I changed for the final panel. I'v played Gauntlet form all four positions with and without the 1st and 4th players at 45 degrees.
All sticks in the same direction is more natural (to me) and is how the real 4 player games (Gauntlet) are.
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This looks just like the picture from the Visio files I have on my website for 4-player CP layouts (based heavily on an early 4-player CP visio file from this forum). It even has the text up the upper left-hand corner I put to remind myself of some measurements! So I am not sure how this is just eye-balled since the Visio file does contain precise measurements...
http://www.tc.umn.edu/~gust0208/visio/
Well.. with the 49 ways could you reorient the orientation (that doesn't sound just right)
so that you could play smash tv on an angle?
YES! GOOD IDEA!
The Diagonals setting should work nicely as I have the player 3 & 4 joysticks rotated at exactly 45 degrees. You would just need to map it in Mame the first time you play.
I just started fooling around with placing the sticks in line with one another and on a 45 degree angle from one another so that the 49ways can be reprogrammed for dual SMASH TV setup
Does this look too goofy?
(http://img146.echo.cx/img146/8260/492bc.jpg) (http://img146.echo.cx/img146/8260/492bc.jpg)
This is just "eyeballed" right now.
Once we get a good layout I'll measure it more precisely.
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I did several, all of them special order. Only one (of mine) that I really liked the look of, even though I think it's crazy over-the-top, is this one. Specifics here: http://www.mameworld.net/massive/Cabinet/Zeldamame/Zelda.htm
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This looks just like the picture from the Visio files I have on my website for 4-player CP layouts (based heavily on an early 4-player CP visio file from this forum). It even has the text up the upper left-hand corner I put to remind myself of some measurements! So I am not sure how this is just eye-balled since the Visio file does contain precise measurements...
http://www.tc.umn.edu/~gust0208/visio/
Well.. with the 49 ways could you reorient the orientation (that doesn't sound just right)
so that you could play smash tv on an angle?
YES! GOOD IDEA!
The Diagonals setting should work nicely as I have the player 3 & 4 joysticks rotated at exactly 45 degrees. You would just need to map it in Mame the first time you play.
I just started fooling around with placing the sticks in line with one another and on a 45 degree angle from one another so that the 49ways can be reprogrammed for dual SMASH TV setup
Does this look too goofy?
(http://img146.echo.cx/img146/8260/492bc.jpg) (http://img146.echo.cx/img146/8260/492bc.jpg)
This is just "eyeballed" right now.
Once we get a good layout I'll measure it more precisely.
I did use your template but changed the layout so that players 3 and 4 are in line with and on a 45 degree angle to players 1 and 2
this way you can reprogram the 49 way sticks for players 1 and 2 to work on 45 degree angles to give you 2 parallel sticks for simultaneous 2 player dual stick games like Smash TV
(http://img245.echo.cx/img245/5217/a8ms.jpg) (http://img245.echo.cx/img245/5217/a8ms.jpg)
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this way you can reprogram the 49 way sticks for players 1 and 2 to work on 45 degree angles to give you 2 parallel sticks for simultaneous 2 player dual stick games like Smash TV
Regular 8-ways will program like this too.
I wouldn't use square restricted sticks though.
They would feel funny.
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(http://ldgonzales.home.comcast.net/cpanel.jpg)
also......
FoX: http://www.taffe.us/Upload/ctaffe/2005-03-12-IMG_0398.JPG
How did you guys get the glossy look over the control panel and the side of the cab?
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How did you guys get the glossy look over the control panel and the side of the cab?
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How did you guys get the glossy look over the control panel and the side of the cab?
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It looks like he used a faux marble laminate.
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Let's say you decide to connect a dreamcast or xbox or playstation to your cab
How many buttons will each player need?
Also, if you are using 49way sticks I don't suppose it would be possible anyway would it?
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Heres my 4 player main panel. This is a standup cab. I'm using a rotatable panel so the center two player areas will change but this is the main panel. I decided to use 2 joys for player 1 and 2 for games like Smash TV.
I would change the layout a little bit by bringing players 3 and 4 forward a little more as the angle for the screen is a little tight. I also screwed up with the "Enter Grid" text for players 3 and 4. It gets severed when I rotate the center panel.
The large holes on top of the panel are cup holders.
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Mine.
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Nice panel Mark, I really like it. Do you have a page for this?
Here's mine.
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Nice panel Mark, I really like it. Do you have a page for this?
Here's mine.
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My rendition of the Gauntlet CP, Mame style. :)
(http://www.hotseatgames.com/uploads/content/6/images/6_0474.jpg)
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I'm a newbie who's thinking down the road to building my own 4-Player (Quad) Control Panel, and I'd love to see photos of what you folks have built and hear about how happy you are (or are not) with the layout and controls you chose.
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heres mine...yay
(http://home.comcast.net/~daviddilday/DSC00290.JPG)
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I'm a newbie who's thinking down the road to building my own 4-Player (Quad) Control Panel, and I'd love to see photos of what you folks have built and hear about how happy you are (or are not) with the layout and controls you chose.
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figure I'd slap mine up here - haven't shown it off in awhile:
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johnnysmitch...wheres the rest of it? or did you build just the cp and not the monitor section? i want pics!!! ;D
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johnnysmitch...wheres the rest of it?
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Nice Job, Johnnysmitch. I have been planning a control panel similar. at least in principal. I am making a roll away CP for 4 players that will be able to hook up to an actual Cabinet. As I do not have a projection TV at the moment to make a showcase cab. what did you make your CP base out of? Got any plans?
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hey i dont have a projection tv for a showcase cab either. i just used a 27" tv with s-video for mine, and it works great.
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what did you make your CP base out of?
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(http://arcadia.gerety.net/gallery/Cabinet004.jpg)
http://arcadia.gerety.net/
Sorry, Wish I had a better image. :-/
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with a UAII would there be a large gap between the monitor bezel/glass and the back of your control panel if you didn't notch your CP top to go in there like that?
The reason I ask is I am planning on using that area, if there is an "area" for a small panel that will stay with the cabinet when I swap out panels.
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see pic for area I'm talking about
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what did you make your CP base out of?
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see pic for area I'm talking about
Timoe:
That notch was basically just for my panel design, and to save wood. I didn't need the space that was notched out, so I notched it out. If I cut that part off the control panel, there would be a large gap there...
I would not recommend taking that area away from the CP, however. That part of the cp is the exact width of the cabinet, and rests on the "Lip" part that of the base that is designed to support to control panel. My control panel sticks out a great deal farther than that lip. Unless you use a really good method of securing your CP down, you're going to have trouble because a lot more of your CP will be overhanging the front of the cabinet frame and it'll be unstable.
I hope I expressed that clearly enough, It's 5:00PM, I'm about to leave work, and my brain is totally shot.
--NipsMG
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Ahh, it's nice to see my artwork being put to good use!
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Ahh, it's nice to see my artwork being put to good use!
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I agree with Sinner in asking about that?
Do you need to place buttons above a trackball? Can't you use the player 1 buttons with it..
i.e.
A B C GHI
D E F (Joy) ( TB ) (Joy) JKL
Couldn't you play Centipede, let's say with A button to shoot and TB, as well as use AB as mouse buttons when not playing?
The other thing that always makes me wonder about designing CPs
When people put a 4-way right about the TB. Doesn't that make it awkward to use?? Don't you hit wrist on TB or drive hand into stick when using TB?
Tony
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what did you make your CP base out of?