Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: VMJ Team on November 22, 2002, 03:46:22 pm
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Some of you who check out the other boards, such as the Jukebox and software boards, probably have seen my latest project...the Virtual Jukebox. If not, you can check it out here:
http://www.cybertechdesign.net/software/Jukebox/vj_cabinet.htm (shameless plug)
Anyways, I'm currently in the process of building a second jukebox for a family member for x-mas...since other family members are chipping in on the cost, I'm going all out. I purchased ALL iluminated pushbuttons from happs. I already have the "control" panel build and operational...However, Since 14v DC power supplies are hard to come by and aren't cheap...I did what I did for the illuminated pushbuttons on my Virtual Jukebox cab...I replaced the 14v light bulbs with 12v light bulbs from AutoZone and just used a 12vDC power supply. Well with 24 illuminated pushbuttons all right next to each other....this thing is generating more HEAT than I feel comfortable with. I don't want to melt anything, so I need to know what I can do to keep the heat down without loosing too much illumination.
Any one have any suggestions?
Thanks
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Replace the bulbs with leds and resistors.
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Hmm, would this work? Remove the light bulbs and place an 18" florescent bulb/fixture central, near the most buttons?
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You do NOT need a 14V power supply to run a 14V bulb. Its obvious the bulbs you replaced the original bulbs with are a much higher wattage bulb. Just put the original bulbs back and run them with a 12V supply. It will be a little bit dimmer than if you ran with 14V, but you probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference much.
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As liche said, (most) incandescent lamps will glow with almost any current running through them. In one of my coin doors, I use a 12V automotive lamp powered by a variable "black wall wart" transformer, the kind that does 4.5, 6, 7.5, 9, 10.5 and 12 Volts. I've found that for my cabinet in my room with the fairly opaque "25c" card in front of it, 9V is about perfectly bright, and I've had it on for weeks at a time without the metal around it being even warm to the touch.
You could definitely use lower voltages to lower the heat. Automotive bulbs are made to be seen from hundreds of feet away in traffic. See what they look like when powered from the +5V lead, or get a variable transformer and dial it to whatever you want
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Hello,
We use LED's to light the trackball on the SlikStik, they are 5v and get power right from the IPAC, you can get 5 volt right off a pc motherboard I think. They are a little pricey I think though, if you send an email to info@slikstik.com, Christian can probably help you find a source. Or you can easily track them down on the web.
JMascari
http://www.slikstik.com
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With LEDs, you can basically run them off any voltage as long as the forward voltage of the LED is met. The 5V LEDs you speak of most likely have their own current limiting resistors inside them, so the minimum voltage you can run (without losing any brightness) is 5V. You could run that LED with a 120VAC if you wanted to, you just need to have the proper current limiting resistor. Also, when running LEDs directly off of 120VAC, you must remember that the LED (being a diode) is only going to conduct for half the 50/60Hz cycle. You should choose a resistor for this based on the peak voltage which is 120 * SQRT(2).
Also most standard LEDs will be happy with about 10-15mA driving them. You can calculate your current limiting resistor using that figure.
For example, you want to run an LED with 10V with 10mA current.
We'll also neglect the forward voltage of the LED in our calculation
Using ohms law V=RI
V/I = Resistor Value
10/10mA = 1k resistor
NEVER hook up a LED directly to a voltage source or you WILL destroy that LED.
(does not include LEDs that have built in resistors)
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Hello,
JMascari
http://www.slikstik.com
Aren't you the CEO or something of SlikStik? :)
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Not the CEO, but one of the principals.
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I replaced the bulbs with the original bulbs and they are slightly dimmer, and generating less heat, but not a whole lot. It just seems to me that something in not right. I know light gives off heat...but aren't these things supposed to be designed around that factor. We're not talking about melting plastic, but your finger definately feels the heat when pushing the buttons. If this is normal, then I'll leave it...but I'm afraid to leave it plugged in for long periods of time.
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24 incandecent bulbs are going to produce heat no matter what you do IMHO.
If you truly want no heat than go with LED's. Simple as that. The initial cost will be more but you won't ever have to replace them, you don't need a transformer and they produce zero heat. The Pro's easily out weigh the cons.
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LED's are the way to go. Happ sells LED replacement bulbs that will fit all of their stuff (buttons, coin doors etc etc). But if you don't want that huge expense you could possibly try a small pc fan in the control pannel... a chipset fan or something similiar to blow across the lights... you probably have one of those laying around.
Just an extra suggestion to get you thinking... I personally would go the LED route.
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Hate to burst your bubble Brax, but LEDs do produce heat. Take a white LED and drive it with about 30mA current (usually the maximum rated continuous current for the device) and after a few minutes that LED will be pretty warm if not hot.
There are one to five watt LEDs available now (made my Luxeon) which are finding there ways into high performance flashlights and even automobile headlights. These LEDs actually have a built in heatsink because they get so hot.
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Sorry to leave loopholes. I was assuming he knows he doesn't need 1000 footcandles coming out of his buttons.
low powered leds will work fine for his application and will produce imperceptible heat. White leds are more expensive too so if you have red buttons you can use the cheaper red leds.. etc.
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Sorry to leave loopholes. I was assuming he knows he doesn't need 1000 footcandles coming out of his buttons.
I was just searching for the current thread on putting LEDs inside Happs pushbuttons and thought this was a funny comment. I don't know, I like the idea of 1000 footcandles/button.
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Hmm, would this work? Remove the light bulbs and place an 18" florescent bulb/fixture central, near the most buttons?
Seems to me this would be the easiest (and cheapest) solution. I know at least one other MAME cab uses this type of setup, but i don't have a link handy.
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how bout take the lights out. Personally colored lights are gay. just my opinion though.
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how bout take the lights out. Personally colored lights are gay. just my opinion though.
It's a good thing we have homosexuals in the world. Otherwise we'd all be crashing into eachother at intersections :P