Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: delta88 on April 17, 2005, 06:39:33 pm
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GroovyGameGear.Com Link (http://www.groovygamegear.com/cgi/surfshop/shop.cgi?ud=Q0tCOUlTNkJXNSUlJSUlJTExMTM3NzY1NzIA&storeid=1&cols=1&categories=0043&&c=detail.htm&itemid=GPWIZSTD01)
I see that there is a solder version and a no solder version.....I checked the site and no cable/connector fo the no solder version.. aparently it looks like the solder version is less of a hassle...cut wire prefered length and solder or find a ?ide cable? cut it , seperate each wire, strip them back and then attach that small little wire to a larger wire or block to then apply a connector to to run to a switch...
If this is inacurrate lemme know. Id love to see some pictures of how the no solder verion has been put to use in a cab.
thx
d88
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I'm pretty sure that is for an IDE cable. At least that's what Randy was saying it would be when the eco II first came out.
To me, it's completely worth the extra $3.00. I soldered my Eco I myself and it wasn't THAT bad, but it was enough to convince me that the IDE version would be easier.
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Solder version less of a hassle? With the no solder version all you do is insert a wire, and tighten a screw.
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Solder version less of a hassle? With the no solder version all you do is insert a wire, and tighten a screw.
That would be the Max. I think he's asking about the "No-Solder Eco", which is the 40=pin header. ;)
RandyT
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I thought stripping an IDE cable would be really hard until I tried one the other day. IT IS EASY! You can strip the end with a utility knife, and the wires peel apart to give you 40 separate wires going to the IDE connector. As long as the IDE cable wires are long enough to reach your controls, you don't need to use a block.
Also, instead of trying to crimp quick disconnects onto the small wires, use a small solder joint. This is actually very fast (I wouldn't have thought so) and if you were willing to solder 40 wires to a PCB so close together, then 40 solder joints connecting easily separatable wires to disconnects should be a snap for you.
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I used the "no-solder" version a few months back when wiring up a panel for a friend. It was easier than soldering one up would have been (and I am good at soldering).
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I used similar wiring on my cab with I used a MK64.
Nice things. You can keep groups of wires together with the IDE cable by pulling apart the wire between 6-7 (for instance) so 1-6 are still connected in one clump until you get close to where you need them. This really does help.
Bad things. You can't crimp well on quick disconnects. And your always worried about pulling them off.
I ended up taking the wires to a barrier strip and using good wire from that point on.
But all said and done. I moved to a screwdown version..... And WORTH EVERY PENNY!
If this is for your own project, I would recommend it!
But knowing that Delta seems to trade games a lot. You might want to save a few bucks.
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I got the no solder version of the eco from Groovy Game Gear, as well. I had never dealt with an IDE cable before and found it to be no trouble. I actually used those little wire nuts that look like pen caps but are threaded on the inside to connect the tiny wires from the IDE (doubled over) to the 22 AWG stranded wire that connected via quick disconnects to the joysticks and buttons. That was easy, but time consuming. I'm currently building a bartop and will go with an encoder with screw on terminals this time 'round. I've decided that I value the time more than the money.
KenToad
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I've used a no solder version Keywhiz and a couple of GP-Whiz's in recent projects.
Instead of using an IDE cable, I picked up a bunch of 4 pin CD sound cables from a local computer surplus store similar to:
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are the wires thicker?
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Ohh! using those 4-pin cables is a GENIOUS idea!
Shreading and Stripping the IDE cable wasn't as bad as i thought it was going to be (it was simple to do really). But there was a LOT of trial and error (lots of errors!) while picking the right wire to strip for the desired pin (apparently I'm not too good at counting LOL! Using those 4-pin cables would make that job a WHOLE lot easier!
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are the wires thicker?
The ones I found and used were close to 22g wire so I was able to crimp .187 disconnects directly to the wire. They are a bit thicker than what you normally see on a sound cable.
The also had the wide 4-pin connector on each end so I was able to just cut them in half so I ended up with 8 wires for each I had.
These were for a couple of small projects...(2) single player desktop CPs and a YDKJ controller so I didn't need much wire length.
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I've used a no solder version Keywhiz and a couple of GP-Whiz's in recent projects.
Instead of using an IDE cable, I picked up a bunch of 4 pin CD sound cables from a local computer surplus store similar to:
Brilliant!
-S
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Hi,
I purchased a round IDE cable ($5.00)