Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: IntruderAlert on March 17, 2005, 12:25:48 am
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Looks like maybe the sides have been painted over or somethin'
Any idea what kind of cab this is?
(http://img186.exs.cx/img186/2238/mm13ri.jpg)
(http://img114.exs.cx/img114/1854/mm22td.jpg)
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Mortal Kombat 3...
http://www.klov.com/game_detail.php?letter=M&game_id=8754
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Thanks GGK
It sure looks like you are right.
(http://img50.exs.cx/img50/5203/cmortalkombat34jf.jpg)
I am planning to put a 4 player control panel on this
It looks like it would work out well to me.
What do you think?
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Sure.. just make a bigger control box.
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I like the one that Krawdaddy made for the gold mine.
But that's probably too big for this cabinet.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=21952.0;id=8034)
Who else has nice 4 player CPs?
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I do... just check the examples ---> http://arcadecontrols.com/arcade_examples.php
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eh ...ok.... ... ... see ya' next year ... lol
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I did a little more looking around on KLOV and it looks like some of the Mortal Kombat II machines used this cab as well.
(http://i147.exs.cx/img147/4923/cmortalkombatii7me.jpg)
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Or a Killer Instinct cab too...
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Or a Killer Instinct cab too...
That was my guess as well
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Yeah.. Killer Instinct or more likely Killer Instinct 2 with that red trim
..well anyway, I'll bet there's some Midway art under that paint.
If I want to put my own artwork on the side panels should I strip the paint off or just apply it on top?
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Yeah.. Killer Instinct or more likely Killer Instinct 2 with that red trim
..well anyway, I'll bet there's some Midway art under that paint.
If I want to put my own artwork on the side panels should I strip the paint off or just apply it on top?
I would say to go right over it. There is no use stripping it.
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If you look at this picture you will see that it's not a perfect paint job
How do you think this will affect the look or adhesion of the new graphics?
(http://img186.exs.cx/img186/2238/mm13ri.jpg)
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I found some paperwork in the bottom of the cab
It was indeed a Mortal Kombat II
Also found a Hantarex Polo monitor manual
Is that standard resolution?
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If you look at this picture you will see that it's not a perfect paint job
How do you think this will affect the look or adhesion of the new graphics?
Sand it a bit and give it a couple coats of fresh paint before you apply your new graphics. The extra work will be well worth the better end product that you will have.
-S
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ok.. thanks for the tip
i've been searching through all of the upright machines and can't find any 4 player CP that I like as well as this one
http://www.slikstik.com/quadfeatures.htm
(http://www.slikstik.com/images/quadl.jpg)
although Mugopain
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Mine is similar to the Slik-Stik one. But I only have 4 buttons for P3 & P4 and I don't have a spinner above my trackball. Trust me, with the Slik-Stik, you'll whack your hand on the spinner or joystick when playing Golden Tee.
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well where the heck is yours at???
there's zillions of cabs on that list!!!
my eyeballs are popping out by now . . lol
.and now that we have an I.D. i guess I'd like to move this to the projects section if one of you MODs would be so kind :)
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I have always liked the BOTTOM deck of the "Supercade". I'm not so keen on the upper deck. I could be wrong but it looks like a hassle to use the controls there.
(http://www.cybercoma.com/supercade/images/cp_front.jpg)
Another is "Talking Octopus's" 4 player deck. To be honest, It is a little larger then I would like to have mine, but I have used this as the launching point for my 4 player deck design.
(http://webpages.charter.net/rbecker5/images/cpAll.jpg)
I changed the fighter style 6 buttons to be more ergonomic, and flush upwards, the way I rest my hand on the cp.
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those are both pretty nice
and i like the idea of the "Supercade" but I wonder how difficult it would be for small kids to reach the upper CP
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Well I opened up the back of the machine today
This is my first real JAMMA machine so I'm not familiar with most of this stuff
This was originally a Mortal Kombat II that was converted to a Martial Masters so I suppose that's why there are plugs and wires here and there that are not connected and some look as if they were cut or pulled from their connectors
(http://img205.exs.cx/img205/3129/cab29iw.jpg)
(http://img240.exs.cx/img240/5786/cab0ry.jpg)
(http://img240.exs.cx/img240/1235/game28fc.jpg)
(http://img204.exs.cx/img204/5748/game5eg.jpg)
here's the polo 25
(http://img94.exs.cx/img94/611/han9sb.jpg)
and the remote control for it
(http://img94.exs.cx/img94/3568/moncon6aa.jpg)
i guess this is the flyback transformer
(http://img94.exs.cx/img94/9435/fly1rk.jpg)
i don't know what this peter chou device is
(http://img94.exs.cx/img94/3515/chou7pr.jpg)
and inside the coin door are these controls
(http://img94.exs.cx/img94/6380/vol0nc.jpg)
the "begin test" button and "service credits" button work fine
but I can't figure out how to turn down the volume and it's way too loud :o
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The one device is the power supply. Did you try pushing in or holding down the volume buttons? They may not be connected to that box.
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The "flyback" transformer is actually the isolation transformer for the monitor. You need this.
The Peter Chou thing is the power supply for the cabinet...it's a top notch power supply for cabinets. :)
Ed
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Did you try pushing in or holding down the volume buttons? They may not be connected to that box.
Midway is one of the few manufacturers that had volume control buttons on the front door. My guess is when the JAMMA conversion was done, these buttons had no equivelant on the new board, and are thus "dead".
Look for a volume control pot on the board, or go through diagnostics to see if there is a software volume control setting somewhere.
APf
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OK .. thanks I'll try that
Do you guys know the best way to remove the instruction stickers from the glass?
There seems to be some on both sides of the glass
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Razor blade followed by Windex.
APf
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I have found that there are some areas on the side panels that the laminate had chipped off and the bare wood exposed before they painted it all black.
You can see what I am talking about on the top near the marquee.
(http://img186.exs.cx/img186/2238/mm13ri.jpg)
Is there any way to fix something like that?
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The "flyback" transformer is actually the isolation transformer for the monitor. You need this.
The Peter Chou thing is the power supply for the cabinet...it's a top notch power supply for cabinets. :)
Ed
Actually, the 120v is isolated on the main power brick on that Midway cabinet. The flyback transformer is not the isolation transformer for the monitor.
Newer monitors have a second transformer on the chassis for isolation. Typically, there is a big 'ol sticker on the power leads informing the user if the monitor requires isolated power.
-tom
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Not sure if you've already seen it, but I have the exact same cab. Mine was an MK3, but it still used the Polo 25" and all the other components I saw in your pics. If you're interested in my progression/conversion, you can check it out here. I take a lot of pictures, so beware! ;)
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,32169.0.html
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Yeah.. I noticed that topic the other day when you got back from the beer factory ;D
I'm guessing that vinyl you used would be to thin to cover or these chipped off sections of laminate on mine.
I'm thinking I'll have to either re-laminate the whole panel or bondo and repaint
Any ideas?
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Actually, on the back corners of my arcade, I had a little damage similar to what you described. Mine wasnt that bad, so I just took the vinyl right to the edge and called it a day. If yours is a little worse off, you can always go to Home Depot or Lowes and get a tub of wood spackle. Its really cheap and works for filling in holes and notches in wood. Just fill in the missing chunks with the spackle, take a putty knife to it, let sit, then sand and smooth. If its a really big piece thats missing, near or right on the edge, I'd say go ahead and cut out the area around it and replace it with a new piece of MDF.