The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: sean2276 on March 11, 2005, 12:42:39 am
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I JUST PICKED A NEW GOLDSTAR AGT 19" COLOR VIDEO ARCADE MONITOR. DO I NEED AN ISOLATION KIT OR CAN I JUST PLUG IT IN AND PLAY? (1942)
THANKS
SEAN
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GOLDSTAR DOES NOT MAKE COMMERCIAL ARCADE MONITORS!
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then is it a pc monitor? if so then what will i need to use it on my 1942 arcade game
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Is this a cased monitor or is it an open frame? If it's open frame then the Goldstar sticker is on the picture tube. Goldstar does make picture tubes for arcade monitors, but they don't make the monitor.
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here is a picture of it. I have not recieved it yet.
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That's a Kortek brand widely sold by Betson-Imperial (a.k.a. Imperial International) and several other monitor resellers.
This monitor REQUIRES the use of an isolation transformer. Don't connect it to power without one or it WILL be damaged. It may or may not come with a power cord with the usual arcade 2 pin white Molex power connector on the end to plug into the game cabinet's monitor power connector. It's possible the monitor may come with a plain old power cord. Don't plug it in to a wall outlet! If it has a plain power cord you'll need to chop it off and put an arcade Molex connector on the end to match the connector in your machine.
The video/sync input connector should already match what's in your machine, but they normally include a video cable with the monitor in a little plastic bag.
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this will work won't it?
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Yeh, that looks like an isolation transformer.
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Heh... that looks like the pic from Video1963's auction of a iso.
The concern I have with his (and specifically the on you pictured above) is that it is only rated for 85 watts. (See the marking in blue on the top label)
However, these monitor chassis that he sells and presumably what/who you're buying from (the Weiya's) are rated at:
80 watt/1.2 amp max. (1.2A = ~132 watts @110v) for some 19" chassis
85 watt/1.3 amp max. (1.3A = ~143 watts @110v) for some 19" chassis
100 watt/1.5 amp max. (1.5A = ~165 watts @110v) for the 25" chassis
Therefore that transformer is "on the edge" for the 19" chassis normal current draw, and definitely too small for the 25" chassis, and not to mention, no headroom for the maximum draw (presumably power up or with extremely bright screens) on any of them.
I would get a larger ISO myself. Ken--what are your thoughts on the topic?
(And BTW--I think it is incredibly stupid for those chassis to be sold with a standard power plug, even if you buy the power-plug/receptacle equipped ISO... too much chance for it to be plugged in directly and cause untold damage.)
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All the isolation transformers I have worked with have all been rated at least 100 watts.
I've always wondered why some of them came with a standard 'plug-into-the-wall' power cord myself.
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so what do you recommend I do?
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That picture of the transformer you posted, is that the transformer currently installed in your game cabinet? If it is then you should call up Happ Controls, Bob Roberts, or Arcadeshop and order a real arcade isolation transformer.
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no it is one that I saw on ebay. Which of the three would you recommend?
thanks
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What transformer is installed in your game cabinet now?
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im not sure
I can find out tomorrow
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Take a picture of the inside rear of your cabinet so we can see what's in there now.
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O.K I will do that and send you a messege tomorrow, thanks for your help
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ken here are the guts
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A picture is worth a thousand words.
You have a Stern upright cabinet. If the original cabinet paint color was yellow it was a 'Bagman' game If it was clay red it was a 'King Tut' game. Anyway you already have a great isolation transformer sitting in the machine shown in the last picture. If I remamember corrctly on that cabinet there should be a black and a white wire terminating in a male white 2 pin Molex connector. That's where your monitor plugs in. Take the back door off the cabinet and look around for this cable and if you follow it backwards will lead you to the power transformer. Everything should already be wired for you in that cabinet. That old transformer had several windings inside it that went to the original game power supply circuit board, yet there was also a winding that fed the monitor isolated 115 volts AC power.
That blue unit with the black face/terminal strip is the switching power supply for running the gameboard.
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Great
Thanks Ken for all your help.
OHH one last thing before I forget what is the best way to take my old monitor out without frying my self?
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Take off the back door.
Unplug the monitor power connector.
There should be a ground wire/strap connected to the monitor metal frame. Disconnect that.
Unplug the video/sync connector from the monitor.
Now go around the the front and open the upper coin door. Unlatch the control panel and unplug it. Set it out of the way somehere.
Lift the monitor glass up and out of the machine. Now remove 4 monitor mounting bolts (I think they had 3/8" hex heads). The monitor will pull straight out the front of the machine. Be careful not to bust the neck of the tube as you lift the old monitor out and you drop the new monitor in.
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thanks
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Ken
Does it matter if I put the new monitor in vertical or hori.?
I would like to put my NBA Jam board in there and be able to play both.
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The cabinet you have was originally a vertically mounted monitor so if you want NBA Jam it's a horiz game so you'd have to chop/carve/modify the wood monitor cutout to put the monitor in horizontally.
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O.K.
other than that there should be no problem? I know that would make 1942 hori. but I think that would be kind of cool. I might have to rotate the joystick. What would you recommend to use to connect multiple boards? Is there a limit to the number of boards?
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If you want to run multiple Jamma boards in one cabinet visit www.multigame.com and buy the multijamma kit.
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Can I run a non-jamma board? and do I need to re-wire everything?