Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: DanteBK on March 01, 2005, 11:11:27 pm
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I'm about a week away from taking my CP apart so I can put on the new overlay I got from mamemarquees.com. While I'm in there I'm going to hook up my vibration detector, coin door, and P1/P2 LEDs. Imaging putting the artwork on is kind of messing me up, so I was just wondering:
What are some problems you all have had putting on CP art? Any problems at all. Let me learn from your mistakes!
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The most common problem with CP art application is to cut the holes in the CP before using the CPO as a cutting template.
If you set the CPO on the CP, make some small holes through the button / joystick centers on the CP and then cut, you will find your CPO will line up very well.
Other than that... I don't hear to many problems... Other than someone using the wrong materials, or getting bubbles, etc. With something from mamemarquees.com, you've started off on the right foot.
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i was planning on sandwiching a print on gloss paper from a colour plotter between the MDF CP and plexi top surface pre cut to the right shape. How do the mamemarquee CP tops work? Are they printed on the plexi itself?
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Just curious... What are you using for vibration detection...? Is this going to be your 'bump' in pinball?
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The mamemarquee is printed onto thick paper, with some type of laminate applied over the top, so it looks & feels like a vinyl cpo. With a mamemarquee cpo, you don't NEED the plexi... it's like the cpo on one of the original cabs when it was new. Course, so many people grew up playing on plexi covered converted machines that they might not remember a time without plexi.
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To answer jfunk's question: I'm pretty much following this tutorial exactly: http://www.arcadecontrols.com/arcade_vdt.shtml
My local radio shack didn't keep these things in stock, but they did place an order for me and send it right to my house. I haven't gotten 'round to doing it yet, 'cause I'm waiting to have all the parts I need for everything I want before I take my CP apart to put the art on.
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I don't know how that's supposed to work. I tried it with no luck. The thing wasn't responsive enough, and the beating I had to give my cab just made it worthless. Regardless of the sensitivity settings... it works too much like a slam switch. I'm guessing the person that wrote that tutorial used it in a CONTROLLER, not a cabinet, making it easier to slam (and thus work) I like the idea of using one of the plumb-bob switches to accomplish the vibration in a cabinet.