Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: coasternuts on February 11, 2005, 07:50:04 am
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So I am planning on recessing the trackball plate and a couple of joysticks into 3/4" plywood. I have the $99 Porter Cable fixed base 1 3/4hp router with a 1/2" straight cutting bit. I was thinking of using 1/8" fiberboard as a template for both.
Questions:
1) Drill first, recess cut second?
Should I drill a hole into the plywood first before starting the router? For the trackball(w/mounting plate), is it best to cut out the square first before recess cutting? For the joysticks, is it best to drill the hole first?
2) Prevent unlevel recess cutting?
For routing larger areas, like the dimensions on a trackball plate, how do you cut so as to keep the base plate of the router from dipping into the material since the material you are riding on is being cut away? Should I route in a clockwise fashion from the outside to the inside, or inside-out, or line by line left to right, right to left?
This will be the first time I have fired up a router, so it might explain my newbieness questions.
I hope I've put the bit in properly....
Thanks for any info.
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Yes, you will need to drill a starter hole first unless you have the plunge attachment. With no plunge set up you will want to drill a hole at least as big as the router bit so it can get started.
Don't stress about it as it really is easy to use and control. The hardest part is seeing where you are going and what still needs to be removed.
For the trackball I used the template provided by Saint and traced that onto the CP. I then drilled a 1/2 inch hole in the middle of it and used my jigsaw to cut the center out. I then used my mounting plate and hit it a few times to give me the indentations for the four corners and where I needed to drill holes for them. Make those holes a little bigger than the posts but not by much.
I then used a guide on all four sides so my router would not go beyond that point to the right. Does that make sense? As long as I kept solid pressure on the router and made sure that the majority of it was on the non-routered section I really didn't have a problem with it dropping down.
Let me know if you have any other questions and how it goes. Might be a good idea to test it out on a sample piece first.
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routing the inside you should go clockwise to avoid chipping. get the outsides first then circle th stuff in the middle in a counter clockwise pattern if you have to use a movable template. some routers you can actually attach a thin board to the bottom of it.
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Can I ask some similar newbie router questions....
I'm trying to work out what bits I need. I have a dewalt 1/4" shank router with no bits.
I know I'm after:
straight bit
flush trim bit
chamfer bit if I want to do beveled edges
1/16" slot cutter (t moulding)
And I know I need carbide tipped bits. But what sort of size diameter bits would be best? And will other bits come in handy?
I've read that you can do most of a cab with a router. I'm planning on using plywood and mdf.
Will I need more than 1 bit of each?
Thanks
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The smaller the bit the better, the larger they are tha faster the motor needs to spin. But it also depends on what your trying to do with what type of bit.
And yes you can do almost anything with a router.
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One of each will be fine.
As for a the chamfer bit goes, diameter and size dosent really matter. Its how high or low you adjust the base of the router.
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You might want to check out a roundover bit as well. Dunno, but I always seem to find a use for these, and if you decide to skip the t-molding, this will put a nice finished edge on yer cab.
Since you have a router, you'll ALWAYS find another bit that does something you never knew you needed it for ;)
If'n you really wanna get fancy, dado your cab for additional strenght and possible ease of assembly.
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Yes I was thinking of Dado'ing some joints after seeing the highly impressive work of KrawDaddy on his awesome cab....
I'm new to the woodworking side of things though:
Can I not just use a straight bit for dados?
Or do I need some special bit that can go straight down into wood from above? (handy for routing out areas under cp too?)
A clear description of this would be really appreciated. I plan to take my time, and get it (almost) right....
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Or do I need some special bit that can go straight down into wood from above? (handy for routing out areas under cp too?)
You need a plunge router to do that. or you have to drill a pilot hole.
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If he's careful, he can do recessed areas with a fixed base router and a template, but as far as dadoes go, you don't need any special features other than a straight edge to run your router along.
They make specific-sized bits for more uniform dadoes with plywood and the like, but yes, you can use your straight bit.
And unless you're doing a small number of cuts and will throw the bit away after those cuts, NEVER EVER buy anything but carbide bits for your router. HSS (high speed steel) bits are asking for burned and ragged cuts after a VERY short while. The additional cost of carbide will pay for itself in the quantity of HSS bits you'll have to purchase to get an equal number of uses as carbide.