Neat!
You should make some variety of JAMMA adaptor to plug into JAMMA cabs. Maybe even plug right into the socket.
That'd be a good idea. All it would be is a JAMMA fingerboard with some screw-terminals for video, sound and power inputs, and an IDE cable for plugging into the Wiz.And depending on the pinout, the same adaptor would work with either the KW Eco or the GP Wiz.
Would you be willing to tell me a few technical details? I'm curious about what controller the module uses.<sarcasm>Would you also like him to provide the firmware source code and make a schematic of the PCB etching?</sarcasm> I don't expect an answer to this one.
Also, is the difference between the solder and no-solder versions just the presence or absence of the dual-row pin headers?That's it.
I expect (hope) RandyT will provide technical answers later, but I thought I'd say what I can now.Would you be willing to tell me a few technical details? I'm curious about what controller the module uses.<sarcasm>Would you also like him to provide the firmware source code and make a schematic of the PCB etching?</sarcasm> I don't expect an answer to this one.
Yes.
I'm a little weak on the digital axis thing too. Is this just another keypress?Digital axis would be like the D-pad on a game-pad - It would be identified through Windows as J1 Right, J1 Left, etc., but it is digital so it only sends pressed or released, not how far pressed, and wouldn't work with potentiometers.
Oh, come on. I could find out what controller he's using by buying one and reading the label under the sticker.Don't count on it. (Just trying to save you money if that's your only intent.)
Maybe I could even make a good guess based on the placement of the capacitors and power and USB lines. It's not going to be any great secret. Nor is the circuit schematic, or the board layout. Not to people with eyes.Fair enough.
And there's a big difference between having the designs for a product like this and actually manufacturing it at a reasonable price. This board does not look like a home-brew one-sided etched board.Agreed.
When I build my encoder using the PIC18F4550, it'll probably cost me as much to build it as it would to buy his.If not considerably more.
It's a simple technical question. If RandyT would rather not answer, I understand completely. It's his business what he does with information about his product. But let's let him make that decision, alright?Hey, calm down, I just said I didn't think he'd tell you that. It's a free country, he can post whatever he pleases, regardless of what I say.
Oh, come on. I could find out what controller he's using by buying one and reading the label under the sticker.Don't count on it. (Just trying to save you money if that's your only intent.)
Mind your own business if you've nothing useful to contribute.I mainly was letting you know that the pin headers were the only difference in the two versions, and explaining what digital axes were.
Neat!
You should make some variety of JAMMA adaptor to plug into JAMMA cabs. Maybe even plug right into the socket.
That'd be a good idea. All it would be is a JAMMA fingerboard with some screw-terminals for video, sound and power inputs, and an IDE cable for plugging into the Wiz.
RandyT; is there something up with your site, none of the images in the shopping section are displaying for me.
Would you be willing to tell me a few technical details?
Do you know how the 10ms-or-less polling for USB HID compares to the performance of the PS/2 keyboard port? You compare the unit's behavior to USB keyboards but not to the legacy types. (Ah, I guess this was already asked..)
Also, is the difference between the solder and no-solder versions just the presence or absence of the dual-row pin headers?
Would you be willing to tell me a few technical details?
Sorry, this is a commercial product, and as such, some of the details are proprietary.
Just a quick note here for those considering "rolling their own":
Just because you have a reference design for one controller, that doesn't mean that a simple mod will allow you to do what you want in the end. I found out the very hard way that if you expect a design to work cross platform, and you don't want to write your own drivers from scratch, there is very little help for you out there.
Wow, USB from RandyT? I thought I'd never see the day! ;)
Just messing with you, Randy, I'll probably buy a few of these down the road.
Pointing out that this product is built from a usb kit is just lame. It doesn't matter.... the tools to properly program the eproms cost about 200 bucks (and I'm being conservative) so unless you are running a business and already have the tools, this route is unaccessable to the average consumer.Huh? Who said anything about a USB kit besides HC? I don't follow you. More comments coming . . .
The whole reason eveyone uses keyboard encoders is that not every emulator, pc game or application has gamepad support. Mind you this isn't as big of a problem as it used to be by any means, but still.My feeling is that while this is workable for a primary MAME interface, it works better for an add-on panel.
Secondly, you are billing it as a modular solution. How exactly? It has 32 inputs, but only two axis... so unless you want to use some of the buttons as 2 player axis (which imho is very hacky and you shouldn't have to do), it can't even handle 2 players, despite the enormous amount of button inputs.Well, most mame games don't need an analog axis (there are exceptions). Here is how I see this working.
No analog inputs? Why? It's the one thing that nobody has... a non-hacked, cheap, analog interface solution.I assume you are familar with Daveb's AKI and it didn't meet your criteria for "cheap", correct?
Secondly, you are billing it as a modular solution. How exactly? It has 32 inputs, but only two axis... so unless you want to use some of the buttons as 2 player axis (which imho is very hacky and you shouldn't have to do), it can't even handle 2 players, despite the enormous amount of button inputs. It doesn't handle sub-panels well either, because of the cost. 20 bucks seems cheap until you realize that you have 5 panels.
I'd be curious to know more about how this is being envisioned as a modular system. I have some ideas about the kind of approach I want to take but I'm curious about what Randy has in mind, since I'll surely learn something from it.True, but the unique identifier is mainly useful so that panel 2 remains panel 2 if you leave all your controls hooked up and turn the machine off and back on. For a modular design, where you plug and unplug panels, there are some other interesting effects:
But basically, one approach goes something like this: since each GP-Wiz has its own unique identifier, the front-end software can identify what controls you've connected to the system, and automatically set up the game's input configuration accordingly.
[size=0](Sorry I was kind of a dick yesterday.)[/size][size=0]No problem.[/size]
I love new hardware.... but i've got to be honest I don't know why anyone would choose to use this.
First off, it's essentially a gamepad. The whole reason eveyone uses keyboard encoders is that not every emulator, pc game or application has gamepad support. Mind you this isn't as big of a problem as it used to be by any means, but still.
Secondly, you are billing it as a modular solution. How exactly? It has 32 inputs, but only two axis... so unless you want to use some of the buttons as 2 player axis (which imho is very hacky and you shouldn't have to do), it can't even handle 2 players, despite the enormous amount of button inputs.
It doesn't handle sub-panels well either, because of the cost. 20 bucks seems cheap until you realize that you have 5 panels. I know some of you are saying.... "Well you can just make a harness and keep the pcb in the cp box, thus only switching out the controls."
Yes, yes you can.... you can also double wire your keywiz/ipac inputs to a custom harness and do the exact same thing, thus eliminating the need for this product.
While we are on the matter of cost... I'll admit 20 bucks is a decent price for a gamepad with that many inputs, however, I can get a pc pro pad 8 usb joystick for 6 bucks at any local store. It's easy to hack and although it only has 8 button inputs, I save not only 10 bucks on the initial cost, but also the cost of shipping. I woldn't mention this, because a non-hacked solution is obvioulsy better for the slight cost increase except:
No analog inputs? Why? It's the one thing that nobody has... a non-hacked, cheap, analog interface solution.
As is the usb pcb that you've made doesn't offer any features worth using it over a keyboard encoder. If anything it's limitations would put some people off from buying it.
I want you to succeed, it's just that this doesn't seem like a good idea to me. If it had analog inputs and some additional axis for the same price then I'd be all over it... but as is, it merely limits what you can do with your inputs, as opposed to a keyboard encoder, which potentially can offer just as many inputs, without the hinderance of requiring joystick support or usb support.
*personal note*
Pointing out that this product is built from a usb kit is just lame. It doesn't matter.... the tools to properly program the eproms cost about 200 bucks (and I'm being conservative) so unless you are running a business and already have the tools, this route is unaccessable to the average consumer.
But since then, I have sold at least as many KeyWiz's as Oscar has sold spinners, to very satisfied customers, I am proud to add.
They are small enough to put inside of a classic gaming controller to convert it to USBWell, it's cheaper to buy one already converted from http://www.sealiecomputing.com/retrozone/ , but the GP-Eco is undoubtedly a higher quality encoder, and the other arquments are valid.
Are you listening to yourself, Howard? I think you just said, paraphrased, that "games don't use game controllers" :DWell, Howard does have somewhat of a point here. A lot of the PC simulations that I use (not emulation or arcade related), use keyboard control only, but there's also a caveat - You can use Joy2Key to enable a gamepad (or GP-Eco) with keyboard based software much more easily than you can find software to enable a keyboard to work as a joystick (although there was a thread about that as well - dpadpro if memory serves - someone wanted it for EA virtual tennis).
I did a ton of research and could find only one that was a problem...and that one wouldn't even let you change key assignments.Just a hunch, but I'm guessing you mean Stella, which I haven't used, but Z26 is an altenative, and CPViewer's author has a version of it which does allow you to change key assignments. (but I think you'd need Joy2Key for 2 player usage, but maybe not if you used two GP-Eco's).
Your "it can't even handle 2 players" statement couldn't be more wrong. It can handle as many players as there are inputs to connect joysticks to.Actually - virtually unlimited b/c you can use multiple GP-Eco's. I think there's a limit of 128 GP Ecos' per port (or maybe total) but that will be a busy arcade machine.
I don't know how many people have 5 sub-panels, but if they do, some "fancy dancin' " is going to be in order regardless of the solution chosen.I'm not sure I agree with this statement. See my example above - if MAME is used and all panels use their own GP-Eco, I see very little "Fancy dancin'", other than I have to tell MAME that Coin1 is J1Button10, Coin2 is J2Button10, etc. Am I not considering something???
Howard, you used exactly the same "HC Brand" of logic when I introduced the KeyWiz (the other "product without a need" according to your opinion.)Yep, I remember that.
No analog inputs?
True, but MAME games like afterbuner need it, as will Nintendo 64 or Playstation or Dreamcast (I think) emulation. I wouldn't bash the GP-Eco for not including it, though. It won't support a spinner or trackball either, but that's not it's function.
Why? for the same reason there are no analog inputs on a KeyWiz or Ipac. It's not designed for that purpose. A 4 or 8 or even a 49 way joystick and buttons (or dancepad, or whatever) use digital inputs, just like a game pad does.
And yes, I am considering a version for 49-way sticks.Cool!!!
"What the heck is Howard on about and who is this statement directed at?" :DI wondered and asked the same thing myself. The first mention of USB Kit is Howard's post above???
But just for fun, try $2000 for dev tools and there are no "USB kits." You actually have to read books and work hard and stuff :)
But since then, I have sold at least as many KeyWiz's as Oscar has sold spinners, to very satisfied customers, I am proud to add.
Secondly, you are billing it as a modular solution. How exactly? It has 32 inputs, but only two axis... so unless you want to use some of the buttons as 2 player axis (which imho is very hacky and you shouldn't have to do), it can't even handle 2 players, despite the enormous amount of button inputs.
What is of the utmost importance is that the buttons perform equally to the Axes, and in the case of the GP-Wiz, great care was taken to ensure this. To be quite honest, I would have made ALL the inputs buttons, were it possible to do so and still have cross-platform compatibility using the HID spec.
There are a number of very useful applications for the GP-Wiz, not the least of which, and has been pointed out several times, supplemental controls for upgrading the capabilities of a current keyboard encoder installation.
Pointing out that this product is built from a usb kit is just lame. It doesn't matter.... the tools to properly program the eproms cost about 200 bucks (and I'm being conservative) so unless you are running a business and already have the tools, this route is unaccessable to the average consumer.
"What the heck is Howard on about and who is this statement directed at?" :D
Well, it's cheaper to buy one already converted from http://www.sealiecomputing.com/retrozone/ , but the GP-Eco is undoubtedly a higher quality encoder, and the other arquments are valid.
QuoteAre you listening to yourself, Howard? I think you just said, paraphrased, that "games don't use game controllers" :DWell, Howard does have somewhat of a point here. A lot of the PC simulations that I use (not emulation or arcade related), use keyboard control only, but there's also a caveat - You can use Joy2Key to enable a gamepad (or GP-Eco) with keyboard based software much more easily than you can find software to enable a keyboard to work as a joystick (although there was a thread about that as well - dpadpro if memory serves - someone wanted it for EA virtual tennis).
I don't know how many people have 5 sub-panels, but if they do, some "fancy dancin' " is going to be in order regardless of the solution chosen.QuoteI'm not sure I agree with this statement. See my example above - if MAME is used and all panels use their own GP-Eco, I see very little "Fancy dancin'", other than I have to tell MAME that Coin1 is J1Button10, Coin2 is J2Button10, etc. Am I not considering something???
Why? for the same reason there are no analog inputs on a KeyWiz or Ipac. It's not designed for that purpose. A 4 or 8 or even a 49 way joystick and buttons (or dancepad, or whatever) use digital inputs, just like a game pad does.QuoteTrue, but MAME games like afterbuner need it, as will Nintendo 64 or Playstation or Dreamcast (I think) emulation. I wouldn't bash the GP-Eco for not including it, though. It won't support a spinner or trackball either, but that's not it's function.
Cool link. But I think making a box to support several of them would be a more efficient use for the GP-Wiz.More efficient, agreed, but there's just something cool about being able to take what looks like an original NES controller and plug it into any computer's USB port.
That was thrown out as something you could do iif you wanted to, but it would have to be one of the larger retro controls like the NES arcade stick (which I already used an Eco with for a friend)That would be cool.
I will take a look at the Joy2Key software to see how well it performs.I don't know either, but it's been out for a long time and a lot of people have mentioned it.
Heh. I only meant that if you have 5 sub-panels, there's a lot of work involved figuring all that out regardless of the interface used. But once you have it set the way you want it, no problems.
True, but MAME games like afterbuner need it, as will Nintendo 64 or Playstation or Dreamcast (I think) emulation.Actually, not very well. . . it's the other way around - As you know, I spent years playing MAME with a PC flightstick and only recently with digital joysticks. 1942 and Pac-Man are playable in MAME on a Flightstick (except for the sloppiness and long throw), but it's near impossible to play Paperboy or Star Wars with a digital joystick.
Understandable, but these will most likely still work with digital controls.
And until someone starts selling an arcade quality analog stick for a price comparable to the digital ones the majority of us use now, a conventional PC stick with it's own interface might be the best choice.Agreed, or for that matter, you buy an arcade stick on E-bay, gut a $15 USB PC stick and off you go!
Note:
Note: Some gamepads are clunky in the implementation of their buttons and would never work as directional controls.
So this would be good for DDR :)
It's programmable like everything else, right? The labels on the board are just defaults/mame setup.
Have a pic of it next to a quarter or something else for size comparison. Even though I know how big a 40 pin header is.
But since then, I have sold at least as many KeyWiz's as Oscar has sold spinners, to very satisfied customers, I am proud to add.
]But since then, I have sold at least as many KeyWiz's as Oscar has sold spinners, to very satisfied customers, I am proud to add.
Hmmm, curious that you would have the information to make such an assessment. There is only one person that would know how many spinners I have sold, and she might even share that info with me since I brought her paczki today. :)
If you would prefer to make an informed statement like that rather than just speculate, please email me and we can discuss.
BTW, nice little USB board. I think I have a future project that can make use of such an interface! :)
Hehe. You made a public announcement a while back regarding quantities and I extrapolated the rest .
But yes, it was speculation....guilty as charged :-[
Thanks! That new spinner is pretty kickin' as well ;)
RandyT
RandyT, one question, when you plug this guy in, what is the name that shows up in the Windows Control Panel Gaming Devices?
What happens when you have multiple ones plugged in? Is there a way to distinguish which ones are which? I am just wondering so that perhaps if you are in a game and you are wanting to set up your controls and it lists the gamepad devices that are attached, if they are both the same name.. do yo just have to rememeber that the first one in the list is the first one you plugged in?
Watchin' for these to be posted for sale online.....where be them USB cables?
I assume they are still in transit and item will be posted any day now.
I have 2 of 4 xbox pad based CPs with USB convertors given as gifts last year with PCBs gone bad, this looks like just the ticket to "fix and forget".
I've got a 6 and 7 year old buggin' me every day to get their "arcades" workin again.
At the moment you see a "GP-Wiz" for every one connected, but this is about to change.This is bad - Okay for standalone controllers where it will follow a first-in first-out scheme, but bad for cabinets where the GP-Wiz is permanently plugged in and the device will be randomly (on some systems) as Mouse1 or Mouse3,etc. on boot-up.
What happens when you have multiple ones plugged in? Is there a way to distinguish which ones are which? I am just wondering so that perhaps if you are in a game and you are wanting to set up your controls and it lists the gamepad devices that are attached, if they are both the same name.. do yo just have to rememeber that the first one in the list is the first one you plugged in?Assuming that it works like gamepads currently would (of the same brand), in which case, first in gets the lowest number, however, for standalone, it's not really a big deal, unless you REALLY want to use Ctlr.cfg files. Otherwise, just plug it in, go to Input this game and press the button and MAME will match the settings. Worst case, you might have to swap controllers if you forgot the order you plugged them in.
I will be giving them individual names and device numbers so that they appear to be completely different devices to Windows. I.e. GP-Wiz, GP-Wiz-2, GP-Wiz-3, etc... This just means a little more effort on my end to keep them straight, but I'm more than willing to go that route if it's preferred and keeps things simpler for the users.This will be a big improvement, IMHO. . .
No analog inputs?
I can verify this (somewhat) as well. When I had a PC joystick for MAME, I had to disable it in the mouse games. However, this was a PC gameport joystick and not USB and I always assumed it was just poor calibration of the gameport under Win98.No analog inputs? Why? It's the one thing that nobody has... a non-hacked, cheap, analog interface solution.But then I shelved the whole thing. The reason was I found that apps, including MAME don't seem to perform well when there is an analog gamepad device present. I did not do much research on the cause of this problem, whether it was Windows or the app itself. The problem is, so few games use analog that having a performance hit on the vast majority that don't use it, was unacceptable. I get quite a few emails from people complaining about button sticking or mouse (trackball) stuttering and the solution is usually "turn off joystick support".
I might do some more investigation into this at some point.
So this performance is issue is both Mame32 and Mame? I had hoped it was just Mame....I would assume so. To me, it's not a performance issue as much as a control issue. - The cursor would start drifting when it shouldn't because the joystick lost calibration and was feeding inputs to MAME when it shouldn't have been.
In the games where you would enable analogue joystick support is there a performance hit as well as the games where it is not used?Well, yes, I guess, b/c MAME has to poll the joystick port, but you can't play those games with a digital stick (very well, see above), so you take the performance hit if you want to play the games. I didn't notice it in these games, though.
Also does disabling the input within Mame thourhg the Tab-menus solve this?Yes
If so surely its a matter of changing the default controller setup to always have this disabled?It's a little simpler than that. In MAME it's a matter of setting joystick 0 in the MAME.ini and then joystick 1 in the analogjoystickgamename.ini. In MAME32 it's a matter of setting Inputs Controllers to Joystick unchecked and then the individual game settings to enable it.
No doubt I'm missing something obvious....Don't think so.
QuoteWhat happens when you have multiple ones plugged in? Is there a way to distinguish which ones are which? I am just wondering so that perhaps if you are in a game and you are wanting to set up your controls and it lists the gamepad devices that are attached, if they are both the same name.. do yo just have to rememeber that the first one in the list is the first one you plugged in?
I will be giving them individual names and device numbers so that they appear to be completely different devices to Windows. I.e. GP-Wiz, GP-Wiz-2, GP-Wiz-3, etc... This just means a little more effort on my end to keep them straight, but I'm more than willing to go that route if it's preferred and keeps things simpler for the users.
I had some other questions on here, but they have become moot. Unless there are objections to the above, this is the route I will take.
If anyone has any comments or suggestions related to the above, please chime in.
QuoteWhat happens when you have multiple ones plugged in? Is there a way to distinguish which ones are which? I am just wondering so that perhaps if you are in a game and you are wanting to set up your controls and it lists the gamepad devices that are attached, if they are both the same name.. do yo just have to rememeber that the first one in the list is the first one you plugged in?
I will be giving them individual names and device numbers so that they appear to be completely different devices to Windows. I.e. GP-Wiz, GP-Wiz-2, GP-Wiz-3, etc... This just means a little more effort on my end to keep them straight, but I'm more than willing to go that route if it's preferred and keeps things simpler for the users.
I had some other questions on here, but they have become moot. Unless there are objections to the above, this is the route I will take.
If anyone has any comments or suggestions related to the above, please chime in.
Does this mean you've observed the "game devices switch around at startup" effect? Did you have to do anything odd to make it happen or did it just happen?
Does this mean you've observed the "game devices switch around at startup" effect? Did you have to do anything odd to make it happen or did it just happen?I may be jumping the gun here. The problem occurs if the devices have the same identifier to Windows (in addition to the same name in the Windows Display Panel).
Now, I have one idea for you that perhaps you should consider... How about offering a version of the GP-Wiz that doesn't have the USB connection on it?Just my 0.02, I see your point but I think there would be a VERY limited market for this. And - anyone that would want to mount this in a controller and solder wires to it, will have the technical ability to desolder the connector as well.
speaking of special orders...
where's our 4way\8way\49way\q-bert\analog\digital switchable with a machanical \ optical switchable rotary control and multiple button topfire with a thumb accesable trackball on the handle with adjustable throw and spring tension balltop?
where's our 4way\8way\49way\q-bert\analog\digital switchable with a machanical \ optical switchable rotary control and multiple button topfire with a thumb accesable trackball on the handle with adjustable throw and spring tension balltop?
I had a working device like that designed last year, but I decided not to market it because Pr0nMAME skipped a few frames when you twisted the ball-top and rubbed its tummy too fast.
No analog inputs? Why? It's the one thing that nobody has... a non-hacked, cheap, analog interface solution.
I can offer a reason for this. I designed an analog gamepad USB device with a shedload of buttons last year. The Mini-PAC board has the hardware capability of analog but it's not used by the firmware. But then I shelved the whole thing. The reason was I found that apps, including MAME don't seem to perform well when there is an analog gamepad device present. I did not do much research on the cause of this problem, whether it was Windows or the app itself.
I might do some more investigation into this at some point.
Randy,
The encoder is hot-swappable via the USB, but I am curious if it would be via the inputs. Meaning if I have the iput poles wired to a rs232 connector or somthing similar and put the encoder in the cab, can I then wire up a cp with an rs232 connector and swap the panels that way?
O
------|------
| CP |-------[male rs232][female rs232]--------{GP-WIZ}-----USB--------->PC
-------------
Sweet
After reading through all this, I have a question about this product:
If I use the GP-Wiz to control my 2 player panel with a street fighter setup plus the normal MAME buttons, will it cause my mouse-hacked trackball to behave strangely?
Think of all the work that will cause you.
Not to mention the anxiety of trying to figure out where to put 26 sq. ft. worth of controls.
Store link above isn't working. Find the GP-Wiz's at this link (http://www.groovygamegear.com/cgi/surfshop/shop.cgi?ud=SFNVMEgzNkE5OSUlJSUlJTExMDg0OTA5NjMA&storeid=1&c=search.htm&categories=0041).
The MAX has screw terminals for those that are wondering.
Tiger-Heli is right in that the market for this would probably be pretty limited, but I don't mind special versions for those who need them in a certain configuration.
Tiger-Heli is right in that the market for this would probably be pretty limited, but I don't mind special versions for those who need them in a certain configuration.Does this also apply to firmware?
Throughout the life of this thread I was going to groovygamegear.com and wondering where the heck all this other stuff was supposed to be... I just saw the KeyWiz and Omni-Stik. I guess I never thought of clicking the shopping cart image.
We have a number of products emerging and quite frankly, I'd rather be "inventing" than "web designing".I rather you be "inventing" as well. Bring on the new products and maybe let someone else do the web design (no I'm not volunteering or recommending anyone).
Tiger-Heli is right in that the market for this would probably be pretty limited, but I don't mind special versions for those who need them in a certain configuration.Does this also apply to firmware?
Only to a very limited extent, and then usually only when quantities are required. Too much work goes into customizing firmware to be able to offer the service on an "on request" basis.
Randy, I know you are very busy with production, but could you please answer my stupid questions?
1) I would like to make sure that it will work flawlessly with Joy2Key using
all 32 buttons, so please post your testing results.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm assuming the 4 axes buttons : (Up, Down, Left, Right) will all be recognized by Joy2Key?
2) If GP-Wiz is connected to a WinXP home PC, on the Control Panel- Game Controllers Properties- Test tab, would it show: a single Axis x/y and 28 buttons,
or would it show: just 32 buttons?
3) (forgive me, because this might be a stupid question)
Would a GP-Wiz using Joy2Key software be a better (i.e., faster, more reliable, etc.) than having a Key-Wiz using your Key-Wiz software?
Thank you very much so designing such an excellent product.
Joytokey can be found at http://hp.vector.co.jp/authors/VA016823/joytokey/english.html
I am considering getting one of these to replace my keywiz max wich may have shorted out. I got the keywiz max because it had the screw terminals instead of soldering. How would I connnect the wires using the non solderless version of the gpwiz? It says it has an Ide adapter on it for $3 extra. How would I wire it up. I am a novice when it comes to this stuff?
Thanks a million for your answers. I apologize for not spelling "JoyToKey" correctly.
Now that you can download it, I would really appreciate if you could give
GP-Wiz a thorough test with it. I have a hunch it will perfom flawlessly.