Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: DreamWeb on January 26, 2005, 10:39:59 pm
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Hey folks.
I'm just wanting to get a second opinion on this one.
I'm really wanting to build a control panel with 2 8-way joystick, 1 4-way, a spinner, and a trackball.
I have included pictures of a cab. With a CP replacement, do you think I could fit all that on there on a cab this size? Preferrably, I'd want to avoid goind outside the side edges of the cabinet. Basically, just replacing the existing CP with another the same size (but setup with what I stated above).
Let me know what you think! :)
d.
(http://members.rogers.com/dspritchett/cp1.jpg)
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How wide is it?
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You can probably do it if you make the CP a couple of inches deeper ( so you can have trackball in the middle with spinner directly above it ). I think you will need to flag away the 4 way and just use T-stick pluses for your 8 ways which will mean they are switchable.
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My control panel is very similar to yours. I decided to skip the dedicated 4 way and used switchable sticks (Ultimarc T-Stik Plus). You actually only need one of these I think, but I one in each spot. I haven't added a spinner yet, but if I do it'll be above the trackball.
One thing I noticed with your layout that might make it harder is that your buttons are down low. I used the Capcom layout which puts the stick in line with the center of the two rows of buttons. This left plenty of space for a 3" trackball. I could have freed up even more space if I opted not to use the mounting plate. It's also helpful to keep your 1 & 2 player start buttons out of the center, because that's where you'll need space for the extra's.
Sorry about the quality of this picture, this was right after I got done, and the panel was a bit smudged up from building. If you're using the cab for MAME only, you can map 3 of the regular joystick buttons for games. I wanted my ball to work as a 3 button mouse, so i used a separate set.
(http://home.comcast.net/~tok/mamecab/images/pdcab_happlit.jpg)
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You can easily fit it. I put 2 stick and a trackball on a 17" wide panel. Se it here. (http://www.trimoor.com/mame_cab2/controls/index.htm)
Don't let others discourage you.
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If your building the control panel itself. consider what it would take to add hotswap. Adds some more work but it really helps later on. (like when you find the defender joystick on ebay for 5 bucks... and decide to build a defender/stargate panel).
Also remember you want to take a swing at a trackball every so often.... I personally play centepede more then all other trackball games myself... so that wasn't a huge issue... but since I could add as much space as I wanted... giving the extra room on a dedicated cp was easy (I did add a tron stick on it also... tron + trackball isn't bad until I get a spinner... and it works with one extra game... not that I can remember which :)
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You can easily fit it. I put 2 stick and a trackball on a 17" wide panel. Se it here. (http://www.trimoor.com/mame_cab2/controls/index.htm)
Don't let others discourage you.
Thats a very nice panel, but I think you had to make a pretty hefty compromise by going with only 3 buttons (no newer fighters) and a layout that would be awkward for me. Would this be more comfortable if the buttons were angled the opposite way? Unless you stand angled when playing 2 up?
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I hate fighters, and it's a vertical cab, so 3 buttons are enough. The button layout looks weird, but I like it.
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OK folks. I finally got my cabinet home and assembled. (pictured above)
I'm really wanting to keep the integrity of the cab intact (the side panels)... so, I'm trying to avoid having to cut the sides to accomodate a control panel that will extend over the existing (width only) footprint of the cabinet.
However, that poses some problems.
Here is a mockup of the control panel I'm working on now.
(http://members.rogers.com/dspritchett/mockup1.jpg)
I was really wanting to include a spinner and a dedicated 4-way, but that doesn't look possible now (without making it look completely ugly)
What are your thoughts? The red line indicates the length of the original control panel (only 5.5"!!!) Obviously, I'll be overhanging my modified CP quite a bit. Is this going to look ugly?
If you think I'm best served to hack up the sides of my cab.. tell me. I want to do what's best here.
Thanks folks!
David
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Here is my suggestion. It looks weird, but let me explain it.
First pic:
The trackball is mounted so part of the casing is underneath the monitor glass. You cannot use a mounting plate with this configuration, as it would hang over the front edge.
If you do not care to try this, the panel can be extended past the original point, allowing you to use a mounting plate.
This will work, but it might be difficult to make, and might be awkward playing.
Second pic:
A 4-way stick is added to the top, and the trackball overhangs. There is also room for a spinner if you move the 4-way to the side.
Both:
The start buttons are mounted on the front of the CP box. They won't take up any valuable top space this way.
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You can rotate your joys 90 degrees and bring the buttons closer. that might give you room to shift the trackball up making it not so deep.
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Thanks guys.
Don't I need a trackball mounting plate? How do I do it without one?
I'm gonna go back to the drawing board on this one and see if I can implement your suggestions. I don't want to sacrifice comfort... so, I'm afraid things are going to be too cramped up.
Do you think it's wise that I don't hack up the sides of the cabinet in order to accomodate a wider CP?
d.
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I think you'll be much happier with the end product if you keep it inside the existing walls.
The lines on that cabinet would look really funny just ending at a big CP box.
Have you considered making swappable panels for this?
That would eliminate the cramping, and let you keep the CPs close to the original size.
It would look entirely natural if you held them in place using cross-dowel nuts in the existing triangular bracing to hold the CP in place with bolts through the top.
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Here is an example of a CP that someone did with this same cabinet. As you can see.. they extended beyond the lines of the original cabinet. If I was to extend them a bit further.. I think I could add the trackball without it looking too weird.
(http://members.rogers.com/dspritchett/cp2.jpg)
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If you get a pair of Ultimarc T-Stick Plus 4/8 way switchable joysticks, you don't need a dedicated 4 way.
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One thing I considered but didn't implement was putting the admin buttons under the monitor--which is basically just empty space. You could then fit the spinner in up there and put the trackball right below it without extending it much further. Definitely go 4/8 way switchable. i regret not doing this on my main machine.
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You don't need to use a mounting plate, but it's a lot easier. It also takes up much more space.
If space is tight, I say go without it. I think it looks better without the plate.
If the panel is wood, be prepared for lots of routing. If it's metal, just drill a 3" hole for the 3" trackball.
Do you plan on having the carridge bolts showing?
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I didn't want the bolts showing! And, I agree.. I think they look better WITHOUT the mounting plate. But, my woodworking skills are limited... so, if it's THAT much more difficult to put it on without a mounting plate, I may be in trouble!
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krick,
Nice compact deseign! Thanks for drawing that up! I'm going to work on it again tonight.
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For your reference. This is a pic of the existing metal control panel that I'm going to replace with the wooden one. Should give you a better idea of what I'm working with.
(http://members.rogers.com/dspritchett/existing.jpg)
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Wow, I'd like to see someone try to play that game!
I've never seen such a nice conversion.
Why don't you give metal a try? It's not much more difficult than wood. The trackball is especially easy to mount, and can be done without the mounting plate.
To prevent the bolts from showing, use t-nuts for wood panels. For metal, epoxy or weld the bolts underneath the panel.
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I definitely don't have the tools to do metal.
What do you mean, "such a nice conversion"? Is this a conversion kit? I'm really new to this.
d.
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I mean the panel was butchered throughout it's many conversions. Instead of using a new panel for a different controller configuration, operators simply drill more holes. What game has 23 buttons and 2 sticks?
You really don't need special tools for metal. Hole saws will work fine in both metal and wood, as well as drill bits.
The only thing you really need is something to make the straight cuts. Either a saber/jig saw, or a metal cutting blade in a circular/table saw. If you use aluminum, you can even get by using a wood blade. Sharp edges can be filed or sanded.