Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: vader on November 27, 2004, 03:03:42 pm
-
Was considering using a cambolt system when building my new cab. Do you guys recommend it and what would be the upside/downside to this..would it be sturdy or would it be like some of that cheap office funiture that wobbles if you breathe on it ? Reason I was considering this is it would eliminate any screws showing from the outside and I would avoid having to putty in the screw holes and sand them down. I know brackets would be another option, just felt like I would pass it by you guys. Are there any other suggestions ?
Tim
-
Are you talking about something like these? (http://images.rockler.com/Rockler/images/57218-lg.jpg)
Upsides
Quicker assembly
Easy knockdown if you need to move it
Clean look from outside of cab
Stability will be just fine - won't be a worry, although you may need a few more along the long backside
Downsides
Price per connector (dunno your source, but those run between 5-10 bucks per, depending on size)
Time involved in making sure alignment is correct
Tools required for installation kinda pricey (forstner bit) but only a one-time buy
May still require screws along backside of cab due to size, or require 2-3 more connectors
PITA screwing in the bolt part of this connector - YOU MUST PREDRILL THE HOLE FOR THE BOLT
Other options would be to just use screws on the outside of your cab, but use a countersink bit to set the screw heads even with the top of the cab....it sucks to have to do it, but with a R/O sander, it truly isn't that much work to get a clean surface again.
If you're using plywood, you could use 1x1's and screw from the inside .
-
Wow, had no clue they were that much....would be cheaper to buy a desk and use those, lol....I guess it's off to counter sinking and putty for me....did that on my past one, was just considering different options
Tim
-
vader88, have you tried pocket screws? You can get a non-Kreg jig fairly cheap and you can get pocket screw plugs too.
-
not familiar with that....do u possibly have a link to that ?
Tim
-
You use a jig to drill the holes first, kinda like toe-nailing something, here's an advanced jig picture
(http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/31995-md.jpg)
After you drill the holes, you drop in some pocket screws (they have a flat underneath the head to draw the two pieces together
(http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/3656y.jpg)
Then you can either leave the holes open (such as in your case, where they won't be seen) or plug them with these
(http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/23026.jpg)
Pocket hole attachment 101. There will be a quiz tomorrow ;D
-
I *think* these can be had for less than $5-10 a piece.....at least I seem to recall seeing a bulk pack of replacement parts in special hardware section at Lowes.
I have never had much luck with overall stability using these types of connectors for anything that is going to withstand much weight. A basic cab might not be too bad but when you go to add a monitor or TV, depending on size you are talking as much as 100-150 pounds of dead weight.
I built my upright from 5/8" MDF and 1"x2" stringers with countersunk wood screws then putty/paint.
I think this is the best option unless you have a workshop full of tools and are a master with wood dowels and dados or something.
Best of luck in your project.
-
If you're using plywood, you could use 1x1's and screw from the inside .
Im using MDF, but this is what im thinking of doing with mine, seams to be a much cheaper alternative. I was thinking of a cam type system, mainily cause I seam to move around a lot, but abandoned the idea cause of the wobble factor.
Those cams that DrewKaree posted look way strong, but as he stated, they cost the earth. I'd go with the 1" x 1" block idea