Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Everything Else => Topic started by: SirPeale on October 12, 2004, 01:17:22 pm
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Found this lamp yesterday. It no worky.
I've managed to trace the fault to this little ciruit board. The wiring has continuity, so I've ruled out that as a problem.
The board is really simple; in theory the fault should be easy to trace, assuming you know something about electronics!
I have a *very* basic knowledge. So I can trace the path of current, but not know what each piece does (except the pot).
Here's the component side:
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Trace side:
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it looks like the flux capacitor might be faulty. If you can throw it very fast (around 88mph), you could try throwing it and seeing if it works w/out power. But w/out the 31gigawatts, I think you might be screwed.
I apologize, I'm very bored at work right now. Good luck.
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*grumble* just when I thought I had an answer...
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Peale, did you find one of those torchiere lights "diving" again?
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Naw, this is a decent looking polished stainless steel desk lamp.
I still have that torchiere lamp, now that you mention it. Should dig it out of storage and see if that has issues.
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Hmmm...Lets give this a go. It's been a while.
The Brown component, Looks like a capacitor to me <mylar capacitor perhaps>
The Black component is probably some sort of transistor or rectifier.
The blue one...My gut instinct tells me resistor<probably custom given no color bars>, but it could be a diode of some sort, or even another capacitor<less likely imho>
Since nothing looks swollen or burnt...I'd place the blame on the transistor. If there are any readable part numbers on any of the compnents post them here, maybe I can cross reference some of the numbers and come up with something more concrete.
Xar256 ;D
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Maybe I can help -- maybe not. :P
The square black thing could be a voltage regulator. Does it have any numbers/letters on it? You can then figure out what it is. A voltage regulator simply puts out a constant voltage -- 12 V, 5 V etc. Easy to replace.
You can measure the pot while it is connected to check if it's toast. Connect a multimeter to the various pins and turn it, if the resistance doesn't change it's busted.
The big orange thing is a capacitor, read the numbers, a replacement should be cheap.
The blue thing might be a diode, or maybe a resistor. Some resistors are coated though. Measure the resistance.
My guess is the pot is toast, you can break those fairly easily by twisting them too hard. It's a really simple circuit, someone with a real knowledge of electronics probably knows what it actually does. ;D
edit: after reading the reply above, the black thing is mostly likely a transistor. I don't think they'd put a voltage regulator there. lol
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It's a dimmer circuit. Looks like a pot, capacitor, DIAC diode, and a triac make up the simple circuit. Chances are the triac is shot.
This is easy to fix.
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It's a dimmer circuit. Looks like a pot, capacitor, DIAC diode, and a triac make up the simple circuit. Chances are the triac is shot.
This is easy to fix.
Bingo! It is a dimmer circuit.
The triac is the transistor looking thing?
There are letters and whatnot on it, but I'll need a magnifying glass to read it. It's really small.
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The triac is the transistor looking thing?
That should be the problem. Hopefully the numbers on it are readable, we might be able to cross reference a replacement for it then.
Xar256
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Any way to test to see if it's bad?
Pot seems okay. Reads nada when it's off, and gives off a reading when I slowly turn it up.
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It would be kinda hit or miss to try and test that without a part number. Without the specs on hand, it's not easy to tell if it's good or bad.
About the only thing you could do is see if it is shorting out. You'll probably need to pull the chip off the board to do it though. And just do a continuity check across all the pins <1-2, 2-3 1-3> If it shows 0 ohm resistance across any of those 3, that would be bad <at least in a transistors case>. Other than that...I can't tell you anything reliable without knowing for sure which pin is which, and what the part actually is.
Xar256 ;D
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Yeh, get the numbers off that black thing. Then I can tell for certain what it is.
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Here we go:
BT134
600E
PHm0438
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It is a TRIAC and it crosses to any one of these replacements:
NTE 5605
NTE 5606
NTE 5607
Motorola T2500D
Yours is probably open or not turning on. Your correct part number is actually: BT134-600E
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Thanks, Ken. Any way to test this?
And where can I pick one up?
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Triacs can be tricky to test. Alot of times it's easier to substitute a known good or brand new one if a bad one is suspected. They don't cost much. I think the NTE replacements are around $2.50 and you can buy them at any NTE distributor (www.nteinc.com)
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Well, I finally ordered it. Should be here, along with my new soldering station, next Wednesday.
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Got here today! Broke out the soldering station (I need a finer tip) and replaced the triac. Success! Mostly. Still doesn't light up, but that's because the bulb is blown. Once I replace that it should be golden, I already measured current at the bulb fixture.
Thanks again, Ken!
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When you replace the bulb, do it with the fixture unplugged from the wall outlet. Re-lamping with it plugged in can blow your new triac. Once the new bulb is in place then you can plug the fixture back in again.
Let us know how it works out.
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Ken is the MAN.
When my blender breaks, I'm going to post, I have this blue blender that makes a noise like a broken muffler.
Ken will reply, that's a Beachmatic 905, they are notorious for their plastic flywheels, get a new one from this guy, then just tap on the lid and the secret flywheel door will open, and replace it.
Art
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Ken is the MAN.
When my blender breaks, I'm going to post, I have this blue blender that makes a noise like a broken muffler.
Ken will reply, that's a Beachmatic 905, they are notorious for their plastic flywheels, get a new one from this guy, then just tap on the lid and the secret flywheel door will open, and replace it.
Art
I was thinkin the same thing
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I don't know nuthin'..... ;)