Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: big daddy on October 02, 2004, 12:32:25 pm
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1) I'm going to use carriage bolts from the top to mount my happ super for support. I assume I need a flat head carriage bolt? Do I need to countersink the head into the control panel so it's not sticking up?
2) I notice the Happs trackball has a mounting plate that sits on top of the CP. Should that be recessed as well to be flat with the CP? Or do you leave it sticking up above the CP? (project arcade book seems to show it raised, which looks kindof wierd to me).
3) I plan on having a Control Panel overlay (from arcadegraphics) but not plexiglass. Will the CPO cover the carriage bolts and trackball mounting plate sufficient enough that I don't need to recess them? Or if I don't recess them will there be bumps in the CPO?
4) I have 3/4 in CP cover and 3/4 in tmolding. If I put tmolding around the CP, when I finally add the CPO will it still look ok? or will it be too think to look correct with the 3/4 in tmolding?
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Carriage bolts might be a little overkill for mounting a stick. I would try something that's gonna end up flush with your control panel surface. And you don't need to recess the trackball mount unless you want to mount it under your CPO.
If it's not perfectly flat your CPO will end up lumpy, and you don't want that, do ya? =)
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so does that mean the trackball mount goes ON TOP of the CPO? Seems like it look out of place to me, but are others doing it that way?
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i thought there were two kinds of trackball mounting plates -- the ones that go on top of your cpo and the ones that are recessed flush so they fit under the cpo.
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I assume I need a flat head carriage bolt? Do I need to countersink the head into the control panel so it's not sticking up?
Those are really personal prefernce type questions. If you don't want the bolt head showing then, by definition you must counter sink and the bolt head style is really irrelevant (although I think a round head carriage bolt would be very hard to countersink in 3/4" wood). If you want the bolts to show, then pick a bolt-head you like because . . . well, it will be showing!
I notice the Happs trackball has a mounting plate that sits on top of the CP. Should that be recessed as well to be flat with the CP? Or do you leave it sticking up above the CP?
Again, personal preference. If you think on top looks weird, then recess it.
Will the CPO cover the carriage bolts and trackball mounting plate sufficient enough that I don't need to recess them? Or if I don't recess them will there be bumps in the CPO?
Maybe I'm not understanding you, but if you lay a CPO on top of bolts-heads that are sticking up, you most definitely will have large bumps showing.
You want to apply your CPO to a flat surface, so you'l l want to recess the bolt heads.
I have 3/4 in CP cover and 3/4 in tmolding. If I put tmolding around the CP, when I finally add the CPO will it still look ok? or will it be too think to look correct with the 3/4 in tmolding?
What is a 3/4" CP cover? Are you saying that you are puting a cover on 3/4" wood? If so, CPO's aren't very thick so molding will look fine.
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I'd recommend recessing everything to make it flat.
I used carriage bolts from the top, countersinking them and then gluing them in place. Be sure to add the glue and then go ahead and attach the under-side components (e.g. joystick base). Otherwise your screws might not line up correctly and, depending on the strength of your glue, might be quite difficult to realign. But don't go overboard with the glue, especially if you're using a glue that expands (e.g. Gorilla glue). If that stuff expands and grabs ahold of your joystick base, then consider it stuck for life.
Then use bondo or wood filler to cover the holes. Sand and prime before applying the CPO. This worked great for me. Some others have used t-nuts:
http://www.octave-electronics.com/Parts/hardware/tnut.jpg
I guess they use a spade bit or whatnot to recess them slightly in the top, then the bolts screw in from the underside of the CP. I dunno... if doing it all over, I'd probably stick with the countersunk and glued carriage bolts.
Oh, and I think ClassicArcadeGraphics has two different thicknesses for their CPOs. You should ask them about it... it's possible that with the thicker one you wouldn't need to bother filling in the countersink holds.
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I agree that you want a flat surface for the CPO.
I guess they use a spade bit or whatnot to recess them slightly in the top, then the bolts screw in from the underside of the CP.
Yes, that's the method.
Oh, and I think ClassicArcadeGraphics has two different thicknesses for their CPOs. You should ask them about it... it's possible that with the thicker one you wouldn't need to bother filling in the countersink holds.
That will still show even on the thicker ones. You will need to fill in any holes.