Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Everything Else => Topic started by: RacerX on September 14, 2004, 04:59:42 pm
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I'm currently the high bidder at a local auction on a Olympic Hockey pinball machine that powers on but will not throw balls. ;)
About how high should I go on this? No way my max of $35 holds up.
I'll attach some pics.
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Next pic.
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30 no more.
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Last one.
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If it powers up,thats half the battle. If the balls dont eject out its probably a bad selenoid. This machine was made in 1972 by Williams,parts should still be availabe for it. If you really want this machine, I would ask whomever owns it right now,to take the glass off,pick a ball out by hand,and launch it around the playfield to see if the pop bumpers,drop targets etc work. If they work then pay whatever you think its worth. Not much collectiblilty to it, But pinball machines are fun to tinker around with. OSG
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That's an EM type pin (Electromechanical). Generally, EM pins run anywhere from $300-$600 range for a working unit in decent shape (in my area anyway). Mint machines can go for more.
Non working EM pins run anywhere from $1 to a few hundred, depending on the game and overall condition.
Anything with an animated backbox, such as this one, tend to be a little more desireable and run toward the higher ends of the ranges.
People into pins are usually split on EM's, either they dig 'em or they can't stand 'em. As a rule, they aren't as desireable as newer electronic pins and there seem to be fewer collectors of these. Reasons vary from maintence to slower play and less flashy playfields then newer pins.
I myself have a 1974 Gottlieb Soccer EM at my house. I like it, alot. Properly setup and with a clean and waxed playfield it plays pretty fast and I haven't gotten bored with it yet. There's something about the noises it makes, clangs, rattles and such, that can't be found in newer pins.
That said, there are some downfalls to EM pins. One is keeping them running. If you were to look inside you would see rows of relays, contactors and switches, that means hundreds of sets of contacts to clean and keep adjusted. Adjusting those contacts is an art form and it's easy to create more problems than you solve if you don't know what you are doing. Having a manual/schematic is almost a must-have. Next, game specific parts can be very hard to find. Backglasses, playfield plastics and such are usually only found from other collectors or ops parting games out.
The good news is, %95 of the time, a dead EM pin is usually just a contact problem somewhere and is an inexpensive fix. The relays, contacts, coils and rubbers are common parts and easy to obtain from pin vendors. A fully and properly serviced/shopped EM pin should provide you with years of play and enjoyment.
D
P.S. I have a head/backbox for that game if you need any parts. I don't have the base cab or playfield anymore, just the head.