Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: JackTucky on September 10, 2004, 03:14:52 pm
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I have some switches that work sometimes and then don't work other times. Are there contacts to be cleaned? Do I bend them so they make better contact?
They are for a shufflebowler. Sometimes the pins go up, sometimes they don't.
Thanks.
Art
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The four main things you need to check are:
1) Are the leaf switches too far away from the bottom of the button.
The closest one should be almost touching the button when the button is NOT pressed.
The other one should be very close to that one.
The best way I've found to bend them is to use needle-nosed pliers (the bent kind if you have them), and apply light pressure right next to the blocks that separate the switches.
2) Do the contacts line up to each other.
If they don't, you can TRY to line them up, but it's easier to just replace the switch.
3) Are the contacts clean.
Use some contact cleaner on them, or rub them with a pencil eraser if you're in a pinch.
4) Are the contacts at the other end of the switch dirty or loose.
If they are quick disconnects, pull them off, clean the blades as best you can on the switch, and rub the quick disconnect on the switch a bit while you put it back on.
If doing all of that doesn't fix the problem, you're into wiring/hardware problems/etc...
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Best way to make leaf switches better? Replace them with microswitches! ;-)
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Often times they're even mounted wrong. The button should press against the single leaf, which in turn presses against the other leaf that is backed by the triple thick piece of much less bendable metal.
I've seen it so often that they're mounted with the rigid piece next to the button and that means when pressing down the two leaves keep pressing each other more and more giving you very little to an intermittent contact.
Also all 3 parts (both leaves and the rigid piece of metal) should be totally flat and straight. If they're the old style multi-part switches using fiberglass board to separate the layers, then take them apart, flatten the metal and reassemble. If newer "cheaper" plastic molded, then take a thin but rigid piece of metal and carefully bend the pieces so all 3 are perfectly parallel to each other and the contacts at the end of the switch touch perfectly. There should always be about a 5 mm separation between the leaves.
Electronic contact cleaner plus a super fine grained (200 or better) sand paper or "000" or "0000" steel wool should be used on the contacts to clean them off. Dont use cheap nail files, they will remove most of the metal and leave gouges that will have multiple burrs that can cause intermittency in contacts. Non abrasive is best, or very very fine abrasives otherwise.
Thinking microswitches are better is a fallacy. Yes, they do not tend to bend, but unfortunately you cannot get in and clean their contacts like you can a leaf switch, and purists really do like leaf switch feel vs the noisy click of a microswitch.
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and purists really do like leaf switch feel vs the noisy click of a microswitch
I feel like leaf switches have an advantage on rapid fire games. You can "float" the button above the contact better and fire more shots per second than with microswitches.
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Thinking microswitches are better is a fallacy. Yes, they do not tend to bend, but unfortunately you cannot get in and clean their contacts like you can a leaf switch, and purists really do like leaf switch feel vs the noisy click of a microswitch.
Microswitches are superior for a lot of applications. That said, arcade games aren't one of them. On the other hand, ever try and keep a EM pin fully operating in a salt air environment? ;)
Someone needs to develop a membrane switch to replace both the Cherry microswitch and leaf switch for arcade use. We'd then have non clicky arcade joysticks and buttons, without the maintainence issues of leaf switches.
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Um, you all missed the boat getting into the leaf vs. microswitch arguement, and in discussing the buttons.
The original poster is discussing an EM bowler, there are no buttons, and microswitches are not possible.
If you are unfamiliar with EM games (or even standard pinball machines), well, they are filled with leaf switches. Dozens, hundreds, why an EM Bingo may have 1000 or more of them.
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Um, you all missed the boat getting into the leaf vs. microswitch arguement, and in discussing the buttons.
The original poster is discussing an EM bowler, there are no buttons, and microswitches are not possible.
If you are unfamiliar with EM games (or even standard pinball machines), well, they are filled with leaf switches. Dozens, hundreds, why an EM Bingo may have 1000 or more of them.
Party pooper. ;)
I've always cleaned leaf switches with some contact cleaner and a business card.
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Contact cleaner and a business card works the best. Also a pencil eraser works good too.
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NO!!!! :o no sand paper.
a dollar bill will also claen them
honest. I have been around arcades when that were all leafs.
That was what I used. just slide a crisp dollar bill between the contacts and press the button and pull the dollar out. that worked every time
any sand paper no mater how soft the grit will be way to harsh.
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Brown paper bags work well for cleaning the contacts on leafs too.
-S
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What about a light sanding of the little round contact points on the leaf switches?
You obviously didn't read my post above:
Electronic contact cleaner plus a super fine grained (200 or better) sand paper or "000" or "0000" steel wool should be used on the contacts to clean them off. Dont use cheap nail files, they will remove most of the metal and leave gouges that will have multiple burrs that can cause intermittency in contacts. Non abrasive is best, or very very fine abrasives otherwise.
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thanks for all of the suggestions. there are about 30 switches for the pins.
Art