Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: JJS on August 25, 2004, 11:07:34 pm
-
I've finally got all of the parts needed to make a DK JR (minus a lower marquee bracket which I think I'm going to have to fabricate), and decided to try to copy my DK cabinet to make a DK JR. It's going ok, all that is left is the marquee area, PCB mount, and coinbox then I can paint it. Does it look OK?
and oh yeah - a cap kit for the monitor.
BTW - does anyone know if the Sharp monitors used for Nintendo games (I believe its a 2001N) run on 100V like the Sanyo 20 EZV? I just got a Sanyo and a Sharp and don't want to plug it in until I'm sure.
Thanks,
Joe
-
Sorry I could post the image, I tried to put it in as an attachment but I don't think it worked.
I finally got a pic!
Here it is:
(http://users.adelphia.net/~jschofield/images/DKCab.jpg)
-
Progress - Here's a test fit to make sure the marquee, monitor bezel, and control panel will all fit. :)
(http://users.adelphia.net/~jschofield/images/dkCabFitment.jpg)
-
that looks like a nice cab!!
dirt
-
Thanks - Only a few things left to do and then I can paint it.
The hardest part was actually securing the bottom marquee bracket because I had to fashion one out of aluminum and it sticks so far out that its hard to fasten it to the cab.
Joe
-
What are you going to use over the plywood so it's nice and smoooooth?
~Ray B.
-
What are you going to use over the plywood so it's nice and smoooooth?
~Ray B.
I was thinking of some type of sanding sealer, then a few coats of primer. I will have to check out what they have at the store when I go to get that orange paint mixed. I will probably ask the people at the paint store what will work best.
Joe
-
what's up with the Zelda grinder in the background?
-
That's what I use to sharpen my lathe tools and stuff....
Its a slow speed so that you don't blue the tools too quick.
-
MDF and particle board are not the same thing.
You have alot of work ahead of you to make that smooth.
Looks good so far!
-
MDF and particle board are not the same thing.
You have alot of work ahead of you to make that smooth.
Looks good so far!
Thanks...
I was hoping that some sanding sealer would fill in any voids, then give it a coat of primer or two.... Have you had any experience with something like this?
-
the best thing might be BONDO. Lay it on there and sand it smooth.
-
I wouldn't need a think coat though would I ? I would maybe think that just enough to fill in any voids. I still haven't sanded it down yet - I sunk the screws in then plugged the holes so you wouldn't be able to see the screws.
Tomorrow I will be switching the wires on the hoirizontal and vertical coils on the yoke because whoever had the monitor before me switched them and now the image is upside down and backwards. Bob Roberts' page on yokes was invaluable. The wires were exactly as he described and of course, they're backwards.
http://www.dameon.net/BBBB/yoke.html (http://www.dameon.net/BBBB/yoke.html)
Joe
-
The filler does not need to be real thick. You will see what needs to be filled and sanded the first time you put any primer or paint on it.
Do the best you can before priming, but you always miss spots...
Good luck.
-
So I guess its no biggie to have to add bondo over the primer is it?
Thanks - I will give it a try.
-
If you don't have bondo, wood putty smooths things out nicely as well. Do a skim coat then sand smooth.
-
I may try both on the top or inside the cabinet to see which is easier to spread. I'll bet if I thin out the wood putty it might be easier to spread.
-
I may try both on the top or inside the cabinet to see which is easier to spread. I'll bet if I thin out the wood putty it might be easier to spread.
Well, this comes under the heading of "Don't Ever Do This"... I wen to the store, and they didn't have any bondo, but they did have a general type filler. It turned out that when mixed with water was a spackle type filler. Well, IDIOT me proceeded to put it on and everything went alright with sanding it smooth and then 2 coats of primer. Well, I masked off the back edges so I could paint the rear of the machine black and later when I went to take the tape off, EVERYTHING UNDERNEATH IT CAME WITH IT. It didn't surprise me too much, but I really should have known better because I do a lot of woodworking. Anyway, I then got out the random orbit sander and am now left with once again a bare cabinet plus LOTS of dust that it took me a while to clean up (still not done cleaing all of it yet). All I can say to walls83 is YOU WERE RIGHT!!! Bondo is the only way to go..... Grain filler isn't thick enough, and wood putty is too thick to spread.
Joe
-
bond can be found at auto parts store