Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: the3eyedblindman on August 12, 2004, 07:20:18 pm
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I have been searching high and low for a router bit for the T molding and I came across a 1/8 inch slot cutter, now this would be 4/32 inch bit, and I believe the book (Project Arcade) says to use a 3/32 inch bit. How much can 1/32 of an inch difference be, thats like a grain of salt, so can I use this bit? I really need a reply soon.
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i believe the standard bit everyone uses is 1/16th. anyone that has used the 1/8" slot cutting bit has found that they need to use hot glue to keep the t-molding in.
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Ditto, hot glue gun will do the trick.
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No, I would rather just get the right bit, anyone have one or know where i can get one? I dont really wanna have to catalog order at home depot, would just like to pick one up.
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mlcswoodworking.com has them for $16 shipped.
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If there is a Rockler Woodworking center in your area, they carry the 3/32".
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=2119 (http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=2119)
Amazon sells the 1/16" Freud slot cutter, which is excellent, but expensive.
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Here is the direct link to the 3 wing slot cutters on mlcs. This is the best deal in town. They don't charge for shipping in the USA either.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_slot.html
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16$ is a bargin (no shipping ) I would jump on it! By the way,you do not want to make the slot to big and put hot glue it in. I know there are lots of people saying that this works,but you have come this far,why half ass it. Do it right and you will be happy. Peace OSG
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Yeah, jump on that $16 deal. I paid $20 for mine a few years ago. And getting it online is probably the best way to go. I remember I had to go to every store in town before I found a 1/16 slot cutter.
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Agreed. 1/16" is definately the way to go. And that price is excellent. Expect to find it for $30 everywhere else.
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It seems that everyone uses 1/16", but I have seen many comments that that size makes for a very tight fit and removing the molding causes some damage to the slot (removing MDF, ply etc.).
I used 3/32" on 5/8" molding and the fit is perfect. It's strong enough to hold without glue (I just fit it with a rubber mallet) and I can remove the molding without tearing any wood out of the slot.
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It seems that everyone uses 1/16", but I have seen many comments that that size makes for a very tight fit and removing the molding causes some damage to the slot (removing MDF, ply etc.).
Why would you remove it after you build it?
I also got the bit from MCLS. Can't say enough good things about it.
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1/16th is a VERY tight fit, you will need to use a rubber mallet to seat the T-molding in the slot. Note: this isn't necessarily a bad thing, it leaves a very professional looking job when seated.
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FWIW, cutting the slot a little oversized and using glue to snug it isn't really "half assing it." It's just a different way of going about it. Same outcome for a little more hassle and less money. I've done it both ways, and it looks the same. That's all that matters.
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Why would you remove it after you build it?
In my case, it was due to a re-design that required, altering the cab front.
I agree that most people won't need to remove it but it doesn't hurt to have the option. Plus, IMO it is designed to be removable without damaging the cab (similar to auto fasteners).
I just think 1/16th is too narrow a cut.
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I used 1/16th bit and have removed the T-Molding twice. Did not have any problems.. I was very careful... and after the third application the T molding still holds in firmly. It might be a matter of luck.
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I'm doing the 1/16" right now. It does require a mallot and the corners are difficult because the tip of the molding starts to flex and doesn't want to go in. However, once seated it does look very good.
I removed a small piece and it did have a tiny sliver of MDF stuck to it. Maybe 1/64" -- not enough to make the replacement piece loose or even easier to install.
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There is a trick to notching the inside for corners. Professionals have a notching tool, which is sold on some arcade websites for over $100. I used my wifes good scissors while she wasn't looking, and they worked fine.
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There is a trick to notching the inside for corners. Professionals have a notching tool, which is sold on some arcade websites for over $100. I used my wifes good scissors while she wasn't looking, and they worked fine.
I used a good utility knife and notched the inside and outside corners. Worked flawlessly.
Ed
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I bought a 3/32 inch slot cutter from mlcswoodworking.com and it was too big. I'll need to use glue to finish my project.
Go with 1/16. I will on my next cab.
I did get good service from mlcswoodworking, though.
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I used a good utility knife and notched the inside and outside corners. Worked flawlessly.
Ed
Could you explain how the notches should be cut?
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Could you explain how the notches should be cut?"
Spystyle has a good explaination with pictures about 2/3rds down this page:
http://spystyle.arcadecontrols.com/index4.htm
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By the way, I said last week that I'll need glue with the 3/32 inch slot, but I was wrong. It turns out that after painting, 3/32 is not too big afterall.
Sorry I doubted Saint.
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yep basically how it's shown in that picture, just remove some of the slot in the area where it has to bend around the corner.
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Here is the direct link to the 3 wing slot cutters on mlcs. This is the best deal in town. They don't charge for shipping in the USA either.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_slot.html
I also ordered my slot cutter from MLCS, and I was very pleased with the speed of shipping. I can't recommend them enough.
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Is this the one you guys are talking about? The three wing slot cutter?
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/cgi-mlcswoodworking/sb/order.cgi?rd=1&storeid=*1aab4045b0f44c9a035e7cae718b4c&sbid=SSMSB1092703371.28273&prevlocation=http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_slot.html
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Is this the one you guys are talking about? The three wing slot cutter?
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/cgi-mlcswoodworking/sb/order.cgi?rd=1&storeid=*1aab4045b0f44c9a035e7cae718b4c&sbid=SSMSB1092703371.28273&prevlocation=http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_slot.html
That's the one I bought!
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I bought that one too. It worked like a charm, and as Peale said before...it cuts through like butter!
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T-Molding.com sells a 1/16 slot cutter...
http://www.tmolding.com/cart/customer/product.php?productid=38&cat=5&page=1 (http://www.tmolding.com/cart/customer/product.php?productid=38&cat=5&page=1)
T-Molding slot cutter assembly for a router.
Includes arbor, bearing, cutter, and nut.
Use with molding 3/4" wide and smaller.
Shank Diameter: 1/4" (shaft width)
Cutter Height: 1/16" (slot width)
(http://www.tmolding.com/cart/product_image.php?imageid=42)
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I used a 5/64's I borrowed from a friend who bought it online and it was perfect size.
(1/64'ths bigger than 1/16", 1/64'ths smaller than 3/32). Worked great in oak laminated MDF and melamine laminated particleboard. Didnt try plywood.
Too narrow and you are likely to split the MDF pounding in the molding since MDF splits very easily.
I'd go 5/64ths if at all possible.
Alternately, you cold use the 1/16 and then route it from one side, then flip over and do it from the other side. The chance of you getting it "exactly" in the center on the first route is very small so doing it from the other side (only works if you havn't built the cab yet, just the raw piece) you would end up making it a tad wider. Or simply adjust the plunge by 1/64th of an inch and reroute from the outside.
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I looked at that MLCS page and found this: "Bit #5360 is designed for T-moldings."
But there is no #5360 on the page. Anyone know what width that was?
I do see that they have a 5/64" width bit. Guess I'll get that.
-foomench