Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Dexter on July 23, 2004, 07:53:50 am
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Hi all,
I'm sticking a 17" monitor into a cocktail cab kit. I'm planning on taking it out of the casing, bolting it through the ears on the tube, then fixing to 4 brackets to the wooden table top.
Two questions:
1. will the mount be sturdy enough?
2. will this create a shock hazzard as the metal tube surround will be in contact via 4 bolts to the wooden top
Thanks in advance
Dexter
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I never mounted my monitor to my top but most people mount them to the top so I'd assume it'd be strong enough. Hell someone even mounted a 27" to a cocktail top. As for the 2nd, I don't think so although if you are worried you can always take percautions.
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since you've taken it out of the casing then you are accepting some risk. the four bolts aren't going to be any more dangerous than the metal bracket on the monitor. i'm sure you'll be careful when you open the cab and when it's not open, everythings covered anyway...
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I have decased tons of PC monitors, you can touch the frames/ears/whatever while they are on just fine. That aint where the juice is. The juice is inside the tube, flyback, and in that cable that runs between them.
The tougher part about decasing a lot of computer monitors is the fact that there is often NOTHING holding the boards in place other than the plastic shell, and those models can be tough to deal with.
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those models can be tough to deal with.
Perhaps someone should start a "Computer Monitors with boards attached to the tube" topic...
I nominate the expert of using/decasing monitors for use in arcade machines, drumroll please... ... ...
Paigeoliver!
I just foolin 'round, but if you do have somewhat of a list of monitors that have that feature I'm sure it would come to good use!
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i'd actually assumed he knew that and was worried about the case where something goes wrong and the frame becomes live. this is what i did for my decase job. as you can see its almost a case again!! thats because i wanted it to be as slim as possible since it rotates. if it wasn't rotating i probably would have left it in the case
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and:
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those models can be tough to deal with.
Perhaps someone should start a "Computer Monitors with boards attached to the tube" topic...
I nominate the expert of using/decasing monitors for use in arcade machines, drumroll please... ... ...
the problem isnt that the board is attached to the tube. once there is no case, the board isn't attached to anything!! other than by wires to the tube which is the case regardless...
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the problem isnt that the board is attached to the tube. once there is no case, the board isn't attached to anything!! other than by wires to the tube which is the case regardless...
I can supply pics showing my solution to this. Easier in a cocktail orientation though.
shelf under cocktail top panel has a cutout for the tube and edge of the chassis board, 4 bolts for the tube, 2 for the chassis, and some thin sheet metal strips from the bottom edge of the chassis to the top two ears to stop it from moving around too much.
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I must take the opporunity to thank Spriggy here, he sent me a very detailed way to do this, which if all goes well I may get around to doing tomorrow. Just a matter of getting spare time and a friend to help.
However, it would still be nice to see those pics you mentioned. One can never absorb too much info before attempting something like like this.
Decasing and mounting doesn't sound too hard except this whole issue of the unattatched board, hmmm hopefully mine won't be too hard a model to deal with.
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i'd actually assumed he knew that and was worried about the case where something goes wrong and the frame becomes live. this is what i did for my decase job. as you can see its almost a case again!! thats because i wanted it to be as slim as possible since it rotates. if it wasn't rotating i probably would have left it in the case
wow thats a need piece of woodworking!
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The ears of the tube should be grounded. With the system plugged in, but off, take an ohmmeter and see if there is 0 resistance between the metal band surrounding the tube/corner ears and earth ground on the outlet. If there is high or infinite (1) resistance, then something isn't grounded right.
Arcade monitors are the same. Most cabs have an extra ground wire running directly to the frame (and thus the ears) to ensure it is fully grounded.
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Apologies for the delay in replying guys, just back in work today.
Just want to say cheers for all of the useful info
Dexter