Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: KrawDaddy on July 15, 2004, 11:09:09 pm
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This cab is made from cabinet grade plywood with dato joints.
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Rename it BlurryCade. ;D ;D
Just giving you a hard time, but i would like a clearer picture, my eyes aren't that great as it is.
On a serious note though, looks really good so far. Always nice to see a cab with different style and shape. Did you get inspiration for this design somewhere or just make it up out of the blue?
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Pretty neat. Basically a low boy with a rotating monitor. I like what I see so far.
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Nice looking and original. Keep the pics coming!
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Hey
This is my own design. I will be dropping the monitor assembly another inch and I still need to cut the panels for the coin door assembly. Comments? Still looking for side sugestions! BTW the CP shelf is set to 4.5 degress, I thought it would be easier to build a CP without the angle.
Kind Regards\
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Sorry, I WILL get this >:(
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Looking good so far, cant wait to see the final result.
Keep the pic comming.
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coin door progress
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What kind of camera do you have?
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What kind of camera do you have?
I'm betting it's a digital camcorder with a very blurry still-mode.
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Maybe his camara is setting on macro mode ;D
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Hey
My camera is one of the first available, Its ancient.
Lets talk about something else, your all making me feel bad.
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They don't mean anything by it, they just wonder what the fuzzy-cab will look like when it's done.
Seriously, if anyone is responding in here, it's because there is an interest. I -think- you have a pretty unique design there, and this board is full of guys who live for details and PICTURES PICTURES PICTURES!
Yours reminds me of my bar hopping days...I mean I think she looks good, but that could be the beer colored glasses talking!
Now go borrow a camera and let us get a good look at it!
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It's coming along nicely. I really dig your style. I honestly cannot think of anything for sideart with the name "Nostalgia I". Nostalgia is kinda relative. What's nastalgic to you may not be for me, but I'm sure you'll come up with something. Keep your updates coming.
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Actually, Iam just planning to call it Nostalgia without the one. I was just trying to make the point that this is my first version of this design. I really like the set back attitude of the cabinet, theres nothing worse than a video screen in your face. We've played a few multiplayer games and its very comfortable. Also Iam looking for a good shape for the sides. They need to be designed next before i can build the marquee and speaker box. I want to continue with the same lines that are in the base and monitor box. BTW anyone else having problems with the new avga_mame_res_tool 1.02?
The picture below does not include new modifications, Iam droping the monitor box another inch.
Kind Regards\
KrawDaddy
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Nice cab going! ;D ;D ;D
Any hope for any meashurements posted? ::)
- Johnny
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Also Iam looking for a good shape for the sides. They need to be designed next before i can build the marquee and speaker box. I want to continue with the same lines that are in the base and monitor box.
very nice and unique. it looks like a piece of art or modern sculpture.
i think the shape of the sides are good as it is right now. maybe just add an extension at the top for the marquee and speakers.
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All modifications have been made and this is my final version of the base and monitor assembly.
Now on to the SIDE design!
Any IDEAS?
Kind Regards\
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Russian cabinet grade plywood -Comes in 5 X 5 sheets. About 11/16 thick. $38 bucks a sheet.
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My Model Pile, Expensive.
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Hey, congratulations on that fantastic joinery (jointery?) That construction looks really solid.
I like the design as well. Can't wait to see it with the Control Panel.
And, yes, most on here are overly obsessed with digital pictures. PaigeOliver will attest to that. :)
Keep up the good work.
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Extremely nice so far, and I like how the pictures are nice and clear now! I still like the name blurry cab though!
I like the design of your rotating monitor- it seems simpler than other ones ive seen on this site. Is the rotating action pretty smooth on it now? Does it take a lot of effort to rotate it.
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Hey
It takes very little effort at all, very smooth, Id like to say it only took one finger but its a couple of pounds of pressure. regardless, it is still extremely easy to move. Well worth the work! Later I should be able to adapt a motor to it. I beleive the design actually belongs to Mr Salty from some years back.
http://lillypad.4mg.com/lillypad/rotatepad.html
Since I decided to use a 27 inch monitor, I grossly enlarged the wheel to support the monitor. It is very strong and does not bend when picked up. It could have possibly been made smaller but it wasnt worth the worry.
Have others set up rotating monitors of this size?
Kind Regards\
KrawDaddy
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Sharp looking cab K.D. Just for the record though the laminate you are planning to use on your cab is called "Formica" not vermica. ;). Can't wait to see the cab when its finished. Kudos for breaking away from the typical upright design and creating a different look. :)
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Very nice woodworking, that's good to see. Nice execution on the design too!
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Your joint work is excellent. Nice job on a cool design.
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Id like to build an oversized marquee somewhat like this.
What do ya think?
Kind Regards\
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(http://arcadegames.home.mindspring.com/kraw1.jpg)
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Kick Ass!!!
Thanks pocketbikez!
The sides are supposed to hide the monitor box and trim the CP out. Although its a quick sketch and the demensions are wrong heres what I had in mind:
Could ya fire that up like your version?
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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i like your drawing. it keeps the same look as the monitor box. the total design of your cab so far is really beautiful and im glad your final blueprint stays in line with the original shape. at first when you said you were going to add side pieces i was afraid it would cover up all the nice curves and angles. your design is awesome. please keep us posted with your progress.
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Hmmmm, marquee area seems skinny. Will there be room for the marquee light and speakers? The rest of the cab is so fat (or should i say phat?) that maybe it just looks skinny in comparison. I would prefer it to be wider in keeping with the flow of the rest of the cabinet. Just some constructive crtiticism and usually from an art or design standpoint I am wrong so take it with a grain of salt. I still think it looks awsome, keep it up!
Edit...actually it is starting to grow on me already.
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Hey
The marquee area is 8in deep. Should be plenty of room for a light. I tried a thicker design but it took away from the shoulder like look. I think the first picture is a more acurate view.
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How did you mark out and cut the hole for the monitor so perfect? From experience it's I know it's not an easy task.
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One thought, this looks like a lowboy, so you must have to sit while playing. Is there space enough for your knees, or would you have to sit side saddle to play?
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-the control panel is a standard height. Its very comfortable standing in front of. Plenty of toe space!
-I start by drilling a hole in the center of the wood, then I made a jig and bolted it to the center of the wood and routered out the wheel. Then I drew two perpendicular lines across the bolt hole and worked my way out. I divided the monitor in quarters for measurments.
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-whammoed
Your absolutely right! Back to the drawing board with the side design. I really though that design would have looked good, so I cut it. For shame!
-I think a dark enclosed screen that players 3 and 4 could still see properly would be cool?
IDEAS?
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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For some reason, I don't think you should have the marquee and speakers built onto the sides. Your design is so slick and looks good already. I think you should have a seperate box for those and mount them to the top with a couple of 5/8" chrome pipes or something. Kinda like it's floating. I'm at work so I can't draw you up what I'm talking about, but maybe you can picture it.
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You seemed bummed at the beginning because everyone was ragging on your camera...I just wanted to say that each incarnation of your cab has looked SUPER sweet to me. I like it a lot. Original. neat to see a deep cab rather than Tall.
Also cograts on the new camera. ;)
allroy
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For some reason, I don't think you should have the marquee and speakers built onto the sides. Your design is so slick and looks good already. I think you should have a seperate box for those and mount them to the top with a couple of 5/8" chrome pipes or something. Kinda like it's floating. I'm at work so I can't draw you up what I'm talking about, but maybe you can picture it.
Great Idea!
Could ya still draw up a picture?
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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Just something similar to this. I'm sure you could make it look better than a couple of blocks, but this is just a quick pic to give you an idea of what I'm talking about.
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Hey
Thanks for the idea, Ill work with it. My problem is this:
The design of the cab included the sides to create a modular system. The sides will be detachable along with the marquee. If I mount the marquee on posts the sides will then become dead weight.
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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Love it!
Much more what I think flows with your cab. Fat all over. ;D
I ended up not minding the contrast of the skinny one before, but this is much better.
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SHARP ! 8)
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Thanks!
Any negetive comments out there?
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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Looks alot better. the first side just made the machine look way to flat almost stubby. But you put some Height on it and it looks like a beast. very Nice work.
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Hey
The first side is actually the monitor assembly and isnt a side at all. The monitor assembly sits on the base and the sides attaches to the monitor assembly. The sides will support the marquee and speaker box - the same width as the monitor assembly. the monitor bezel glass will rest on the monitor box face and butt up to the sides.
-It disassembles and can be quickly carried through a standard 30" door!
Kind Regards\
P.S. I deleted the pictures the posts referring to the old skinny side.
Kraw
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Oh.. :o
Well it looks very good. I can feel and Mammy coming on
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Very nice work. You inspired me with this design. I will incorporate parts of this into my showcase. I cannot wait to see the finished product.
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I've taken a little off the bottom of the sides.
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;)
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Looking good. ;D
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Break out the fun! First for Galaga! ;D
5 yrs just high enough
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First time playing FROGGER! :o
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That's gonna look reaaaaal nice. Can't wait to see the final product!
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First time playing FROGGER! :o
Wow this thing is quite a bit bigger then I thought from your earlier screenshots. What a beast! I like it! ;D
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DADO JOINTS!! It's about freaking time!! So glad to see a cabinet built like a....
cabinet! Fantastic woodworking KrawDaddy - gotta be the best I've seen on any project here. 100 yrs? You're kidding yourself... plenty of less solid stuff from the turn of the century is still in use. That piece of work'll last at least 500. Come to think of it, the glue between the plys will deteriorate before your joints loosen up! KUDOS! I am SO glad to see woodwork like this being done here.
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BTW is that a kayak or a surfboard on the wall (a few pics back)?
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Hey Pixel
Its a Kayak! Ya I like the Dado Joints, Theres no magic about building this cabinet, everybodys using all these crazy tools and L Brackets. L Brackets; what the hey are they? ???
I have found that DADO joints to be very strong and self aligning. Youll never use an L Bracket again. To cut them I set my depth to a 1/4in on my router and run it along a fence (3 dollar peice of angle iron) clamped to the board.
I fact the only tool I usually use to build a cabinet is a router and a four foot piece of 2" angle iron. Although I fire up the table saw for my end panel bevel cuts. If you use a circular saw to build your cabinet, your making a mistake. There are router bits that will accomplish amazing things.
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That cab is PHAT, er I mean FAT.
It looks real sturdy, great design.
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Heres the jig I used for my Marquee
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Jig in use :( little dark
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The basic design ive chosen. Itll be chopped and installed with the lower one in the marquee box.
It will not sit on the top, I placed it there to give an idea of the curved marquee.
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Hey Man! You're gonna need some bendable arcade marquee brackets! And there's a guy on ebay by the name "wwvideogames" who has 2! Check his ebay store.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13718&item=3245622098&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V (http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13718&item=3245622098&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V)
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Success! ;D ;D ;D
There is still a spacer and speaker board to create for the marquee assembly.
Comment?
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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Close Up.
This marquee kicked my...
:-[
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:D
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;D
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KrawDaddy- that is a work of art. I can hardly wait to see the marquee lit up.
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That is Sweet!!!
;D
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Looks really nice. Are you going to have the speakers between your monitor and marquee where there's no board right now or are you going to make it into the marquee?
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what if he were to divide the marquee in half width wise, put in another matching bowfront piece to split the opening into two equal halves, lightbox on top speakers below...
what are the dimensions of the marquee?
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The speakers will be within the board that connects the monitor to the underside of the marquee. I dont want to split the marquee boox because the back of the marquee will have a door to seal the light, the light will be mounted on the door. Also, the marquee will look kick ass if it is girthy.
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REALLY like the design of your cabinet. I have a basic question, if you could answer...what is the length from front (CP) to back?
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Hey
Iam guessing my control panel will fall between 18 and 20" deep. With this in mind the cab is between 59 to 61 inches deep.
-5 FEET!
Better have a big game room!
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This is definitely one of the best "new design" cabs I have seen. It's a monster, but a sweet sweet one. I don't know what you were smoking when you thought this up, but it must have been great stuff!
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Hey Man! You're gonna need some bendable arcade marquee brackets! And there's a guy on ebay by the name "wwvideogames" who has 2! Check his ebay store.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13718&item=3245622098&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V (http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13718&item=3245622098&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V)
Those don't look long enough for his marquee?
Hit Home Depot and get some the the wall brackets used for drop ceilings. It is PERFECT for marquees. It is also only $2.27 for 12 feet! Then all you have to do is tin snip your own bites out of it for your marquee.
Krawdaddy,
Too bad you didn't oversize and route a marquee goove in the bottom panel of the marquee box. That way you could have just laid the lexan in there and made your own top bracket.
The way you have it looks like you are going to have to add a securing bracket to the bottom as well?
Or maybe I can't see it well.....
Looks great so far!
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Too bad you didn't oversize and route a marquee goove in the bottom panel of the marquee box. That way you could have just layed the lexan in there and made your own top bracket.
Now, I couldn't see it in there, but I think having a top bracket (just a different idea, nannuu, bear with me, I'm not kicking your idea down) isn't necessary, looking at your design.
KrawDaddy, since you have a router, what about this for your marquee:
Get a 1/4" channel (or box or whatever they name it by you) bit, and use a hardboard template and bearing guide to make a groove on both the top and bottom panels of your marquee box. Using 2 pieces of 1/8" plexi to sandwich your marquee between, it should easily bend to fit the curve of your marquee, keeping the original shape, rather than a curved front with a "boxy" and set back marquee.
I really can't craft a picture to show you, but I have a feeling you have already been thinking of this when you went with this marquee design.
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DrewKaree, i think you mean 1/8" plexi?
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DrewKaree, i think you mean 1/8" plexi?
you know what's so retarded? I even previewed that and re-read it to make sure it made sense ::) You are indeed correct, and I've gone back and fixed it. Thanks
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What I want to know is if this cab will fit through a door-way!
I think his pics showed it's being built in a garage or warehouse, right? So what happens when it's finished and must be moved into his home??
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Hey y'all
Take a few seconds and read the very first post and youll see that it will fit through a 30" door. The base is 28" wide, the monitor box turned sideways (with the monitor removed of course) will fit through a 30" door. The sides detach with finish t screws and the marquee box which the sides support removes and is easily carried through a door way. If you look behind at the monitor youll see shelves that the monitor box uses to support itself on the thinner base.
-As for the marquee retainer. Iam forced to uses some kind of flexible L-shaped bracket.
Thanks for all the ideas guys.
I liked the 1/4 slot but the box is built and the bowfront is also at a 5 degree angle. I would have had to make a special jig to do it, and I want to keep the arcade true to form. I.E. T-molding and marquee retainers.
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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;D
Modular marquee is done!
I still need a door for the back. The door will support the fixture.
Btw- The marquee is designed to appear tp float between the side.
now to decide what type of sound system to use. There plenty of room on the speaker board.
Comments?
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:)
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:)
Finish bolts will be used in place of the clamps.
This way it can be quickly removed for transport.
Easy accsess to the fixture
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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What a hulking beast! I like it!
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VERY NICE CURVES !!!!.... ;) ;D :o :o
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I bought some 6X9 midway reproduction speaker covers
and I think Ill be placing some high-end PC speakers behind them on a shelf.
Comments?
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I still love this project, just worried because we haven't heard anything new on it. You were on such a roll Krawdaddy!
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Hello
I have the speaker grills mounted and the control panel shape is cut. Ive been playing with a mock up CP. It has a few odd ideas I havent see on anyone elses CP, so don't laugh! Ill post some pics tonight if anyone is interested.
?
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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please post pics. Keep us updated
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Hello
I have the speaker grills mounted and the control panel shape is cut. Ive been playing with a mock up CP. It has a few odd ideas I havent see on anyone elses CP, so don't laugh! Ill post some pics tonight if anyone is interested.
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Kind Regards\
Kraw
Definitely interested! Post those pics!
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Goddam you Kraw, you're cab is sheer brilliance! And I'll re-iterate the comments regarding the woodworking - Are you some kind of master-craftsman? as the quality is extraordinary.
Full respect to you and your cab matey....now I'd like you to build me a cocktail ;D
Craig
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Evening'
Thanks for the great feedback! Ive been having a great time working on this cab but it sure is time consuming!
Well heres the first pic!
The speaker grills are midway pacman reproductions for 9 dollars a piece. PC speakers will be placed behind them. I didnt think auto speakers looked very retro.
The CP has wood stacked under it for elevation.
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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You can see where my tempered grey tinted glass will slide under the speaker board.
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The speakers will be placed back here. You can see the marquee door that will seal the light in. Its fastened with thumb screws for quick removal. The light fixture will be mounted on the front side of this door.
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:D
Theres the glass slot. The marquee assembly will be attached to the sides with wood inserts and thumb screws.
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The control panel. DONT LAUGH.
Ive mock tested the hell out of this thing.
-theres plenty of elbow room.
-screen can easily be seen from all positions.
-Most important games are 4 way games such as pacman. The 4 way in front center will be a 20th reunion.
-All controls can be used standing or sitting on a stool without interfering with any other controls.
-The track ball is clear for a good golden tee push without hitting anything!
-The stick next to the trackball is a diagonal 4 way.
-the odd shaped holes are hand holes. there will be a board mounted below to support PINBALL BUTTONS. The buttons are placed at 21.25" just like a real one. Ill have to lean forword though, but Id do that anyway. The buttons are set 3" from where my palm will rest and 2.5" from top. Some room for slapping!
-Spinner placement feels nice!
-the 4 way and spinner will share the fire button found to right of 4way stick.
-3 buttons on top are menu
-3 buttons below (next to trackball) are for the trackball, nice wrist rest in center for this.
-Nice place for graphics in center.
-start and coin buttons on top
COMMENTS
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;D
The side will be cut alittle and the CP will go back 3/4"
The front curve matches the marquee.
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:D
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Awesome Design. It's always great to see a breakaway from the norm. Keep up the good work!!!
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I'm really interested in seeing how your hand holes will turn out. I don't recall seeing anyone doing that before.
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WoW!!! Looks good.
What are the measurements of your machine?
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My only concern is where the trackball is. But it really only matters if you play Golf games like Golden Tee or Tiger woods. Cause you might be banging the hell out of the monitor.
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My only concern is where the trackball is. But it really only matters if you play Golf games like Golden Tee or Tiger woods. Cause you might be banging the hell out of the monitor.
The monitor glass is at 35 degrees and the ball is so far forward that it would be hard to slam it. But ill look into bringing it back some.
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looks great but do you have to have a 4 player panel. With a two player setup you could keep the panel the same width as the cab. I just think it would look oodles better that way. Just an opinion though. If you will have lots of friends over playing 4player games at the same time then of course functionality trumps aesthetics.
Again, great job, keep up the good work!
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;D
I have 5 kids!
Hello Simpsons!
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;D
I have 5 kids!
Hello Simpsons!
Gotcha, nuff said ;D
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I could angle the back corners. Maybe this would make it flow better with the cab.
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Yes, I think that would look nice
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Antbody interested in doing the artwork?
A thought...
When I was a kid my local arcade was called "The Gold Mine" It was a 20' by 150' arcade, basically a mine shaft. It was completely dark and the only illumination was some brass lamps and the glow of the monitors. Every 15' they had posts supporting the shaft walls. They had bracing up toward the intersection of the wall and ceiling. Very Cool atmosphere. I though maybe I could change my cab's name and get gold mine graphics ie rock, beams, lamps, small carts, indiana jones tracks, shovels, you get the idea.
Any takers?
BAD IDEA?
Heres a picture, although I would like square rough hewn posts
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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I absolutely love this idea! :D Really nice theme. And a gold mine is very descriptive of the bounty of games available in a MAME cabinet. I say go with it.
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Yep, good idea. Unique cab deserves unique artwork. also even though the theme holds significance to you, I think others will enjoy it.
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:o
Control panel base!
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:)
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:D
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Evnin'
The control panel top will slide back 3/4" when I notch the sides. So its sitting 3/4 to far ahead on the base.
Comments?
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Looks great. You got some mad wood working skills everything looks so clean.
Wheres the Keyboard going? Im just curious.
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I think the sliding keyboard is a joke. No offence!
Ive got a wireless that will sit in the back and will be pulled out when needed.
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Cool I was just wondering I didnt see anyplace for.
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Good job...the two angle cuts on the back of the cp look good. Doesn't look like its just bolted on that way. Nice. ;)
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Good job...the two angle cuts on the back of the cp look good. Doesn't look like its just bolted on that way. Nice. ;)
Thanks! I hope the CP does the rest of the cab justice. Its hard to integrate a 4 player CP properly.
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;)
Wood inserts, thumb screws and wing nuts. The thumbs screws position the wood and grab some threads and the windnut clamps the wood without having to apply torque to the insert.
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:)
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:)
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;)
BTW heres the base alone
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I think the sliding keyboard is a joke. No offence!
Ive got a wireless that will sit in the back and will be pulled out when needed.
why not just say you are going to use a wireless keyboard and not make a comment someone might take offence from? ::) pfft
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I think the sliding keyboard is a joke. No offence!
Ive got a wireless that will sit in the back and will be pulled out when needed.
why not just say you are going to use a wireless keyboard and not make a comment someone might take offence from? ::) pfft
Why is a sliding keyboard a joke? Many people have them including me and they come in very handy at times.
I can understand why you wouldn't want one on your cab as their really isn't room for one but that is not the point.
Gary
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::)
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Iam sorry I offended everyone with my snive sliding keyboard comment. It will NOT happen again. I can only hope that we can find some common ground and return to our freindly and informative posts.
:-[
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Iam sorry I offended everyone with my snive sliding keyboard comment. It will NOT happen again. I can only hope that we can find some common ground and return to our freindly and informative posts.
:-[
KrawDaddy your a funny guy, by the way your cab looks really cool
Gary
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Iam sorry I offended everyone with my snive sliding keyboard comment. It will NOT happen again. I can only hope that we can find some common ground and return to our freindly and informative posts.
:-[
KrawDaddy your a funny guy, by the way your cab looks really cool
Gary
Your right, people spend alot of time building there cabs, and to hear a negative comment related to there own project is frustrating, I went overboard, I guess I just get tired of shifting through the unrelated posts and was worried the same thing was about to happen this thread.
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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Back to the meat
Heres a close up of the CP to cabinet joint. Theres just enough room for T-molding around the back of the CP and down the side. All the corners will be rounded before I apply the Formica.
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Here a pic with the CP in the proper position.
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The bezel
My trimmed Happ 27" bezel. The corners will be cut off the bezel. There will be 2.25" boards mounted to the monitor disk which the bezel will be screwed to. A black plastic disk (same size as monitor disk) will have a monitor cutout in the center. This will be mounted over the bezel to finish the trim out. There will be 1/4" trasparent gray tempered glass over the monitor box. There will be either more tint to trim out the corners or some black cardboard under the glass. (obstructing the view of the corners of the box)
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Your cab is really coming together nice. Seems you got everything all planned out and it's all going so smoothly. Here's my question. Have you run into any snags? It just seems that it's going so smoothly for you and I was wondering what was going on behind the scenes. Don't forget we can learn from your mistakes as much as we can from your seemingly flawless cabinet.
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Your cab is really coming together nice. Seems you got everything all planned out and it's all going so smoothly. Here's my question. Have you run into any snags? It just seems that it's going so smoothly for you and I was wondering what was going on behind the scenes. Don't forget we can learn from your mistakes as much as we can from your seemingly flawless cabinet.
Hey
Ill give ya the low down on some of the nightmares that Ive encountered l8r. The list is too long for just one post :)
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Heres how Iam going to support the bezel. The thickness of the bezel has been added to the perpendicular boards. I havent decided what material Iam going to use for the trim ring. The boards should add a little more support for the monitor. (doesnt need it)
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Iam sorry I offended everyone with my snive sliding keyboard comment. It will NOT happen again. I can only hope that we can find some common ground and return to our freindly and informative posts.
:-[
Heh, you don't want to give your opinion on why you said that huh? I feel the same way I can tell you guys why. It doesn't look like an arcade machine then :) But that's my opinion.
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I love the unique look of this. Awesome.
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why not just say you are going to use a wireless keyboard and not make a comment someone might take offence from? ::) pfft
This is EXACTLY the reason I don't announce my projects or submit them to the examples page. There is a LOT of interest in this project, but of course, there has to be this kind of petty crap that just ruins it.
KrawDaddy, you have every right to express your opinion. If people get offended, that's their problem. I think you have no reason to apologize to anyone, and I'll gladly second your opinion: sliding keyboards suck. I've never seen a keyboard on any arcade machine (Thayer's Quest is the exception, before everyone posts to correct me).
Oh, yes, I'd like to include a quote from RayB from another thread:
Sell it! Cuz if your cab will end up looking like MikMan's, it will look like crap. (No offense Mikman, but i really don't like the end result with that super tall coin door).
Uh Oh!! He might have offended someone!! Fortunately, everyone on that thread was mature enough to take it for what it was worth, and not get upset by it.
Come on people, the discussion was going really well up to this point. Let's try to leave the pettiness out of it. Let people have their opinions.
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There are ways and means to express you opinion without being rude Mameotron.
The fact is it doesn't matter how good you think your cab is someone is not going to like it that
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why not just say you are going to use a wireless keyboard and not make a comment someone might take offence from? ::) pfft
This is EXACTLY the reason I don't announce my projects or submit them to the examples page. There is a LOT of interest in this project, but of course, there has to be this kind of petty crap that just ruins it.
KrawDaddy, you have every right to express your opinion. If people get offended, that's their problem. I think you have no reason to apologize to anyone, and I'll gladly second your opinion: sliding keyboards suck. I've never seen a keyboard on any arcade machine (Thayer's Quest is the exception, before everyone posts to correct me).
Oh, yes, I'd like to include a quote from RayB from another thread:
Sell it! Cuz if your cab will end up looking like MikMan's, it will look like crap. (No offense Mikman, but i really don't like the end result with that super tall coin door).
Uh Oh!! He might have offended someone!! Fortunately, everyone on that thread was mature enough to take it for what it was worth, and not get upset by it.
Come on people, the discussion was going really well up to this point. Let's try to leave the pettiness out of it. Let people have their opinions.
my opinion is this...
if someone says something i dont agree with im going to respond. what caught my attention is how he said out of the blue that a keyboard drawer was a joke and then followed up the comment with "no offence!" like that would make an offensive comment not matter. i challenge anyone to go to a black nightclub at midnight and start calling black people the N word and follow up the comment with "no offence!" and see if it covers your ass.
if someone doesnt want to debate in the forums then they shouldnt say something on another persons cab is a "joke". :D
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well guys
Thats 13 POSTS directed toward my snive keyboard comment.
CANT WE ALL JUST GET ALONG?
Are we ready to move on yet?
:-[
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well guys
Thats 13 POSTS directed toward my snive keyboard comment.
CANT WE ALL JUST GET ALONG?
Are we ready to move on yet?
:-[
Yes....let the discussion on the mouse begin. :)
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HA!
15 HA HA HA
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i like this cab because of its unique shape and high quality construction. the shape isnt like any other cab ive ever seen. did you use any type of classic design for inspiration on the shape?
also this is the first cab ive seen that makes a 27" d9200 look small. what made you decide on the rotating monitor and did you ever consider going with a non rotating 33" to fill it out?
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I really dislike monitors that are nearly verticle. The display hurts my eyes and when playing with multiple people it is really uncomfortable for me.
My favorite games are generally verticle games. These games like galage and mspacman have monitors that lay almost flat. very comfortabe on the eyes.
There is no question on the rotating monitor. With the monitor in the horizontal posistion my verticle games have borders and the display is the same size as a 19 in monitor, although the scan lines and proportions look the same, its still differant. When I turn the monitor mspacman is full size and authentic. There is NO COMPARISON. As long as Iam playing MAME with you guys, Ill never build a mame machine without one.
So I Compramised. rotating monitor, and 35 degree monitor, not too verticle but gives the impression of a laydown monitor. Galaga looks wonderful. With the monitor setback alittle 4 player games are very comfortable.
I guess the hole thing is a compramise. The modular design and rotating monitor were the basic ideas that I started with. I built the generic monitor box and I built everything else around it. There work no preconcevied plans. I designed as I built.
I have ideas to slim down the cab next time, but I need that beefy monitor disk. I really like it this way for 4 players, Iam planning on having a cool bezel to fill the corner voids. I would build another one just like it.
Also, remember I can carry this this into my house part by part by myself without a dolly.
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I always felt the monitor angle on a Galaga or Pacman cab was an ergonomic nightmare. I'm amazed some people actually like it that way. Don't you get pain in your neck from looking down all the time? If I had been playing Galaga for a couple of hours I could hardly keep my head up straight.
Perhaps in in this case it's not so much an issue though since the screen is so far away from the players anyway. You probably need to worry more about light fixtures on the ceiling reflecting of the monitor.
On the rotating monitor question (by pocketbikez), I think you need a 38" monitor to replace a 27" monitor to get the same size for vertical games without needing rotating. 33" would be a lot smaller.
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Bezel is done! White area needs to be painted a matching color. Maybe some MAME decals between the screws on the long sides of the monitor? The white material is flexible plastic with a texture simular to the happ bezel.
-Onto CP mounting!
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Very nice. I'm glad you're making my cabinet so quickly. I can hardly wait to get it! ;D
Maybe some MAME decals between the screws on the long sides of the monitor?
Huh? You won't see them under your smoked glass anyway would ya? Unless you're not going to use smoked glass. In that case... I wouldn't put any MAME references there. But you can do whatever you want with your own cab.
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OOH your right! I guess Ill just paint it black:)
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Good choice. Now get to work on that CP! <cracks whip> ;D
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You can still see through smoked glass somewhat. You could put Galaga or Defender style graphics on the bezel and it would look good in either orientation.
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Formica Progress! :D
The CP mounting blocks have been installed.
Feedback?
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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Another
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Looks great ! you got some wood working skills allright 8)
Curious about something though,what you doing for the inside ? I see visible inside part isnt laminated nor painted..you forgot or something ???
I mean I wouldnt wanna paint anything after formica is installed..just a thought :)
(you can always cover the laminated part with masking tape or something then spray paint)
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Looks great ! you got some wood working skills allright 8)
Curious about something though,what you doing for the inside ? I see visible inside part isnt laminated nor painted..you forgot or something ???
I mean I wouldnt wanna paint anything after formica is installed..just a thought :)
(you can always cover the laminated part with masking tape or something then spray paint)
AH
Those parts will be covered tommarrow. Just started
All parts not covered with Formica will be varnished.
You interested in doing some artwork?
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Kraw-
Maybe I missed your background in the thread somewhere, but...
"Who are you who is so wise in the ways of science?" And by science I mean woodworking. :P I can't get over how finished and precise your work is. This is one of VERY few projects that has me with my tail between my legs... cowering in the corner before your alpha dog woodworker greatness.
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Kraw-
Maybe I missed your background in the thread somewhere, but...
"Who are you who is so wise in the ways of science?" And by science I mean woodworking. :P I can't get over how finished and precise your work is. This is one of VERY few projects that has me with my tail between my legs... cowering in the corner before your alpha dog woodworker greatness.
Well thanks for the complement. ;) Although I dont think its deserved. I have a hard time with the balance of time and quality.
-My grandad and father are carpenters. Actually, my whole family... Now that I think about it, why did I become an Electrician?
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Very cool. Not only is your cabinet going to look great, it's going to be durable as hell. You skip the CP pics? You tease!
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Hows that SNAAKE?
:o
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In going through this thread, I saw the plywood referenced as "cabinet grade plywood". It looks a bit like birch ply to me, would that be correct, or what species is that? Also, where was it purchased?
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The thing that separates cabinet grade plywood from other types is that all the layers in cabinet grade are made from hardwood, i.e., cabinet grade birch plywood would be made from only birch.
This is often confused with veneered plywood, in which the layers are usually pine with only the top two surfaces made from hardwood (usually birch or oak).
Home Depot and Lowes have the veneered kind in stock, I don't know about cabinet grade. There is a plywood dealer where I live that sells only plywood- they have just about everything in stock there.
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Hows that SNAAKE?
:o
Perfect ! 8)
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I'm speechless... what an amazing cool cab you're building! Added this cab to my "favorites" :)
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In going through this thread, I saw the plywood referenced as "cabinet grade plywood". It looks a bit like birch ply to me, would that be correct, or what species is that? Also, where was it purchased?
Howdy
I bought the wood from a cabinet specialist store. The plywood is imported from Russia and is Baltic birch. They come in 5 X 5 sheets and costs 40 bucks a sheet. At one point I found that my marquee was 1/16 too wide so I used a router and took 1/16 of the face of the wood, sanded and it looks almost as good as the veneer face. There was a knot though. The cool think about this plywood is its resistance too warping and it has 13 plys!
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wow, nice design. I'm also surprised that you've picked a CP layout similar to what I'm planning on. Looking forward to the finished CP ;D
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The thing that separates cabinet grade plywood from other types is that all the layers in cabinet grade are made from hardwood, i.e., cabinet grade birch plywood would be made from only birch.
This is often confused with veneered plywood, in which the layers are usually pine with only the top two surfaces made from hardwood (usually birch or oak).
Home Depot and Lowes have the veneered kind in stock, I don't know about cabinet grade. There is a plywood dealer where I live that sells only plywood- they have just about everything in stock there.
Hey, thanks man! I never knew the difference! I hang cabinets and build them out of the "other stuff" and would have never known that unless you had said something. What's the cost differential between the two, and can it be purchased the same as regular i.e. one side sanded, both sanded, thickness, etc? Also, what's the weight difference? Same, lighter, or heavier? (I'm assuming heavier since you said it's hardwood layers vs. pine plys, but I dunno)
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Well I have a greater respect for you BYOAC dudes; Formica and t-moulding is a tedeous process. Heres my current progress, a few mistakes but for my first try, Iam satisfied.
-I put a bevel on all points where the T-moulding terminated. There hidden under other cabinet components.
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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:)
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KrawDaddy, every time you post a new picture, I want it to be the "IT"S FINISHED" picture, so I can see the end result! Still, I like seeing the progress picture by picture as well, so I can reason with my own progress (see, self, even a dynamite example like Kraw's takes time, relax!).
Congratulations on one of many original designs. Plans on making us a plan, or can I offer my services to do so? I'd need your measurements, obviously, but I'd bet there's a couple of guys who'd like your cab, only reduced to satisfy the wife ;)
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Man that looks slick. :o What are you doing for the top side panels?
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KrawDaddy, every time you post a new picture, I want it to be the "IT"S FINISHED" picture, so I can see the end result! Still, I like seeing the progress picture by picture as well, so I can reason with my own progress (see, self, even a dynamite example like Kraw's takes time, relax!).
Congratulations on one of many original designs. Plans on making us a plan, or can I offer my services to do so? I'd need your measurements, obviously, but I'd bet there's a couple of guys who'd like your cab, only reduced to satisfy the wife ;)
Ya! Maybe (depending on how the final product turns out) we could set up some plans, They would include changes id make on the next one. This is hopefully one of many!
My girlfriend bought the Formica a while back and it included 4 black 4X8 sheets.
So I guess my mind was made up for me. Iam gonna have another of those BLACK CABS.
This peice was a nightmare!
Kind Regards\
Kraw
P.S. Ill try to cut down on the photos, but taking pics breaks up the monotony of the garage. ;)
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cut down on pics?!?!?! Don't you dare ;)
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I have a suggestion.... MORE pics instead of less. :P
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P.S. Ill try to cut down on the photos, but taking pics breaks up the monotony of the garage. ;)
DON'T YOU DARE!! SHOW US THE MONEY ;D ;D
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Looking GREAT!
Where did you get those speaker grilles? They look good.
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Looking GREAT!
Where did you get those speaker grilles? They look good.
;D
http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?action=link&sku=SPKRCVRMID
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Hey, thanks man! I never knew the difference! I hang cabinets and build them out of the "other stuff" and would have never known that unless you had said something. What's the cost differential between the two, and can it be purchased the same as regular i.e. one side sanded, both sanded, thickness, etc? Also, what's the weight difference? Same, lighter, or heavier? (I'm assuming heavier since you said it's hardwood layers vs. pine plys, but I dunno)
Drew - The grading system is slightly different. Instead of AC or CDX grades, they have A1 or B3. A is the best face quality, while 3 would be the worst back quality. THey also have specific grades for certain species, it can get a little complicated. I just look for A and 1. It is heavier, some 4x8 sheets can go up to 60 lbs. each. The place I go has stuff pretty much only in 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" thickness, but I know it comes in more sizes than that. Prices change weekly with the market, but last week's prices were (A-1 quality, 3/4" thickness): Birch - $60, Red Oak - $80, Teak (TEAK?!?) $210.
KrawDaddy - Don't you dare stop with the pictures!! Just when you teased us this far you go and threaten to stop! We want more!!!
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On to the sides!
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My girlfriend bought the Formica a while back and it included 4 black 4X8 sheets.
So I guess my mind was made up for me. Iam gonna have another of those BLACK CABS.
Oh don't worry, yours is NOT one of THOSE!
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Here is some progress !
-Please give some feedback. I have enough black for the sides of the control panel but I must decide what color to use for the top of the CP.
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:)
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:)
Bevels are to minimalize the damage when I smack it against a wall
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:)
-Worked out good
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:D
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:)
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;D
-On to the CP!
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Stunning. I think this is my favorite cab. Would make a great Golden Tee game. :)
Allroy
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Jeezus, I hope you never have to move.
I'm not a real big fan of huge behemoths like that... To each his own! ;D
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Jeezus, I hope you never have to move.
I'm not a real big fan of huge behemoths like that... To each his own! ;D
It really is a HUGE :o machine for sure. BUT if you have been following the thread you would know that it breaks down quite easily into managable pieces for moving.
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Jeezus, I hope you never have to move.
I'm not a real big fan of huge behemoths like that... To each his own! ;D
It really is a HUGE :o machine for sure. BUT if you have been following the thread you would know that it breaks down quite easily into managable pieces for moving.
Looks like even the "manageable pieces" are bigger than a regular cab though 8)
I'm also not so much a fan of the design (the size and ergonomics aren't really my taste), but I'm really impressed by the astonishing craftsmanship. I just can't get over how everything seems to be built with sub millimeter precision.
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i hope when krawdaddy makes a webpage for the cab he includes a few step-by-step guides on how he did a few things like the router jig cuts and how he did the laminate cuts in the hard to reach places.
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Krawdaddy, I know I may have not told you before today this, but.
I love you.
;) That cabinet ROCKS.
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"That's one big motha..."
"Shut yo mouth!"
"I'm only talkin' 'bout Nostalgia!"
"We can dig it!"
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Is it really that huge? ;)
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ya shes pretty big but to hell with it. That thing rocks.
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ya shes pretty big but to hell with it. That thing rocks.
Just please dont forget this is my first cab. And its my own design. There are areas that Iam going to change on the next cab to slim it down some.
Ive never even built a CP yet!
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i think its a great cab. unique design, and the size is proportionate to the giant rotating monitor. Its better than a thousand remakes of a SF cab...and your woodworking is excellent.
And also by the looks of you, i certainly wouldnt insult the cab to your face :)
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Whadya mean? Kraw's the kid playing the cabinet. ;D
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Only needs a keyboard drawer, just kiddin looks great.
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Is it really that huge? ;)
Yep. And its a $#%**# MASTERPIECE! :o :o I agree the size is proportional to the rotating monitor. How many cabs have a TWENTY SEVEN INCH rotating monitor!?? Not a whole lot of dead space when the screen is horizontal from the looks of the bezel/frame. MAN! What I wouldn't give to have been a kid playing on that larger than life piece of work growing up. Anyone who doesn't think this is a huge leap in custom cab design is sorely mistaken. Sheer beauty, that. Finish the beast so it can go in the hall of fame.
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I can see people making "Mini" versions of that impressive design. It's certainly in no danger of tipping over is it ;D ? Can't wait to see it turn out!
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Holy moley, that thing is a MONSTER.
Sweet as hell tho.
I'm now dying to see the finished project!
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dunno why i never saw this before. looks fantastic!! what an original design. my own view is that you don't need a marquee but then it's not mine now is it? :)
you definitely want to use a motor on your rotating monitor. it'll have to be a bit gutsier than the one i use but i'm sure something will come along at the right price. hooray for rotating monitors!! once you've had one there's no going back i reckon...
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Jeezus, I hope you never have to move.
I'm not a real big fan of huge behemoths like that... To each his own! ;D
Thanks for the feedback! ::)
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KrawDaddy
You shouldn't feel you have to defend your design. It is groundbreaking and unique, and the craftsmanship is better than any cab I have seen to date. It is obviously wider than most cabs but this isn't necessarily a negative - it enables the huge rotating monitor which is well worth it in my book.
Unfortunately there are always going to be folks tossing negative opinions around. Personally I just don't comment if I don't like something. It just seems a bit nicer.
Just please dont forget this is my first cab. And its my own design. There are areas that Iam going to change on the next cab to slim it down some.
Ive never even built a CP yet!
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You interested in doing some artwork?
I am,so I get to be the guy who worked on the artwork for this unique cabinet ! :D
However,it really depends on what theme you will be interested in.Making fighters related stuff is cake now a day but I am not sure about old school stuff like pacman,galaga,etc.The cab looks great btw..diggin all that angles and corners ! 8)
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Krawdaddy, I think you should have a contest on your artwork. It would be an honor to have your artwork on that cabinet.
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I havent talked to SNAAKE yet but I have talked to Pixelhugger and he's already helping out other BYOAC people. Iam really at a loose as to what Id use for a theme. I do know Id like to use the same graphics theme on future versions of the cabinet. (Ive got some plans for a slimmer version under the table) If anyone is interested maybe they could throw up a few graphic ideas. The gold mine would be sweet but how the hell do you do that? Besides that Iam not a fighter guy but I do like early eighties stuff, also, I collect Atari 2600. SNAAKE is prolly sniffeling over the fighter theme letdown.
I will pay for any final graphic files
If anyone could do the Gold mine theme it would be Pixel or SNAAKE!
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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:o*drool* :o
I'm speechless.... that is an awesome cab. I can't wait to see the end results!! Keep up the good work, and keep the pics coming!
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"...If anyone is interested maybe they could throw up a few graphic ideas. The gold mine would be sweet but how the hell do you do that? Besides that Iam not a fighter guy but I do like early eighties stuff, also, I collect Atari 2600. SNAAKE is prolly sniffeling over the fighter theme letdown.
I will pay for any final graphic files
If anyone could do the Gold mine theme it would be Pixel or SNAAKE!
Kind Regards\
Kraw
This really doesn't follow the goldmine idea exactly, but I was thinking it would be cool to have a bunch of gold coins that had classic game figures on them - pacman, mario, etc. Check out the BYOAC token thread below to get an idea of what I'm envisioning. Pixelhugger did a great job rendering various examples. Maybe have a dragon's lair type treasure room full of these coins and other arcade related golden trinkets laying around? That sort of goes along with the goldmine idea and it incorporates classic gaming elements. Just thinking outloud.
http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=13;action=display;threadid=19172
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"...If anyone is interested maybe they could throw up a few graphic ideas. The gold mine would be sweet but how the hell do you do that? Besides that Iam not a fighter guy but I do like early eighties stuff, also, I collect Atari 2600. SNAAKE is prolly sniffeling over the fighter theme letdown.
I will pay for any final graphic files
If anyone could do the Gold mine theme it would be Pixel or SNAAKE!
Kind Regards\
Kraw
This really doesn't follow the goldmine idea exactly, but I was thinking it would be cool to have a bunch of gold coins that had classic game figures on them - pacman, mario, etc. Check out the BYOAC token thread below to get an idea of what I'm envisioning. Pixelhugger did a great job rendering various examples. Maybe have a dragon's lair type treasure room full of these coins and other arcade related golden trinkets laying around? That sort of goes along with the goldmine idea and it incorporates classic gaming elements. Just thinking outloud.
http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=13;action=display;threadid=19172
Can ya do it SNAAKE? :D
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Ouch! I just noticed SNAAKE was banned for abusive postings :'( ! I don't think he'll reply...
Check his profile (http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?action=viewprofile;user=SNAAAKE)
EDIT: Wait... There's SNAAAKE, who is banned, and SNAAKE who is not... Huh ???
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Check PM. Like I said I'm backlogged for a while but I'd like to talk about this.
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So we go for coins dropping with classic chracters on the coins or something like that) ? Not too sure where the theme is going but you can start working on the buttons,track,spinner placement and I will try to come up with something cool(on 56k for like atleast another week..heavy rain around here busted the cable line or somethin I didnt get a clear answer from my ISP yet)
Pixelhugger can definettly do better things in illustrator though since he is a professional graphic designer(guessing??) and I just know photoshop.
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Pixelhugger can definettly do better things in illustrator though since he is a professional graphic designer(guessing??)
That is true.
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Heres the first submission!
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Wow
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I like the contrast of the blue and gold. Have you already decided on button/joystick colors?
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I like the contrast of the blue and gold. Have you already decided on button/joystick colors?
No not yet. Ive just finished sealing the bare wood and am installing the coin door and wheels. My girl freind has given me a corner in the LIVING ROOM for the beast. ????????????????
Anyway, Iam ready to start work on the CP, I wanted everything else to be finished first. So ill need some sugestions on the colors.
I really like the way the theme is headed, all though i envisioned brown stone on gold.
Also if enyone is interested Ive think Ive found a cheap viable flexiable marquee molding.
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That's good. That way you can see what colors will fit your finished artwork. If you're wanting to base them on that.
Brown and gold seem pretty close colors to me. I think it would turn out looking kinda monochromatic. But hey, unfortunately, it's not my cabinet. ;D
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here's a quickie i have thrown together. Not hi-res but just a general idea.
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KrawDaddy,
I'm interested in your possible cheap viable flexible marquee molding. I would love to hear any ideas and suggestions.
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Ive been busy lately hopefully I can get some work done on the cab.
I have sealed all bear surfaces, and glued and painted the bezel.
Ive ordered two of the betson long shaft 4 way joysticks and ill be ordering the rest from happ tommarrow.
As you can see its now sitting in my living room. Now to formica the CP.
The screw are backed out of the bezel alittle to allow the paint to dry.
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;)
BTW nice artwork!
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2 weeks no update?
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He's got to be working on that control panel. ;D
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Heres a little update.
-Some progress on CP
-Ive ordered a Pinball Lockdown Bar that Iam going to hack the ends off of and mount on the CP to give comfort and the feeling of a real Pinball machine. Heres the bar...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=6122728807&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
-I recessed the trackball plate and it will be laminated over.
-I am going to drill pilot holes and use socket cap wood screws to mount the joysticks...Anybody have problems with this?
-Ive ordered some tempered transparent gray glass for my monitor.
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:)
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-I am going to drill pilot holes and use socket cap wood screws to mount the joysticks...Anybody have problems with this?
Just curious, but why wouldn't you use tee-nuts? Especially if you're going to laminate it. You won't have to worry about stripping the wood out or some body tearing your joysticks loose.
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I dont think people give credit to how strong a properly installed wood screw is, and since my arcade would never be installed in a public place I would rather not bore through the laminate and leave it as clean as posible. If they do get ripped out I could install carrige bolts at that time. What do you think?
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I second Witchboard's comment. When you use t-nuts there are no extra holes in the laminate, only the one where the stick goes through. T-nuts also give you the ability to remove and reinstall the machine screws as many times as you like. It is really no different than what you are doing with the trackball.
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-I am going to drill pilot holes and use socket cap wood screws to mount the joysticks...Anybody have problems with this?
Just curious, but why wouldn't you use tee-nuts? Especially if you're going to laminate it. You won't have to worry about stripping the wood out or some body tearing your joysticks loose.
Ahh...sorry, I was confused on what t-nuts where. I think I will try them. Iam going to recess the wood with the router and place tape over them so there will be no contact cement in the threads. Sound right?
What size machine screw do you guys use? 10-32 8-32...?
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You wouldn't need to bore through your laminate, they would be mounted under it just like your trackball mounting plate. Pretty much everything froggerman said. ;)
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what are those L shaped cutouts right above the 1st and 2nd player controls?
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-I am going to drill pilot holes and use socket cap wood screws to mount the joysticks...Anybody have problems with this?
Just curious, but why wouldn't you use tee-nuts? Especially if you're going to laminate it. You won't have to worry about stripping the wood out or some body tearing your joysticks loose.
Ahh...sorry, I was confused on what t-nuts where. I think I will try them. Iam going to recess the wood with the router and place tape over them so there will be no contact cement in the threads. Sound right?
What size machine screw do you guys use? 10-32 8-32...?
Yes this sounds right, but I use a Forstner bit to countersink the t-nuts. but it is the same idea. I think 10-32 is a good size to use, just make sure they fit through the holes in your controls.
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Hand holes for pinball buttons that will be mounted undernieth
-I'am using 10-24
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Ack! how tedious!
CP ready for finish!
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;D
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;)
They are extremely excited!
Now to build the Pinball button walls
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I can't believe how freaking big that thing is!
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Krawdaddy I have followed your progress from the start and the final product is looking awesome.That is a Monster of a cabinet and looks like it could take two giants playing streetfighter 2 to budge that thing.How much does that thing way 400lbs?Cant wait to see your cp finished it looks very well planned.
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I am really looking forward to seeing your pinball buttons. I want to see how wide apart you set them and if you use the glass lock-down. This think is really coming together!
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The buttons are exactly 21.25" apart. Kevin steele from retroblast measured his machine. The buttons will be properly placed to.
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;)
They are extremely excited!
Now to build the Pinball button walls
Can you blame them? This is going to be an awsome cab when complete. What's the joy on the upper right hand corner? From the mounting holes I'm guessing a 45 degree 4 way for Q*bert.
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What angle are you using on your control panel?
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-Yep its for qbert. I bought 2 betson 4way ball top joysticks with the long shafts for wood CP's.
-The CP is set at 4.5 degrees and the marquee is tilted in 4.5 degrees so there perpedicular to one another.
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KrawDaddy:
Beautiful cabinet design you've got there! I was wondering if you currently had anybody lined up to do graphics for the CP overlay? If not, I'd love to take a crack at it.
- Dan
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Actually Ive got a BYOAC who is working on the marquee who requested to be anonymous. I may have him work on other portions of the graphics. This spring Iam going to start on a new slimmer version of this cab. However, this time Iam going to build the CP around the overlay. So the rest of the graphics of this cab will likely be aftermarket Mame graphics. This winter If your interested I may ask you to help me with my newer design graphics since I want them printed and in hand before this spring.
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T-nuts are installed...Thanks for the ideas!
wood is sealed on bottom ready for formica.
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wow really coming along. What are the two L- shaped cutouts for? I assume they are to attach the pinball stuff to, but how exactly do you plan on doing that? Can't wait to see it finished.
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sweet :D
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I can't remember if this was hit on already, but I just noticed your player 3 & 4 joys are angled. A lot of people suggest that they be set to true up, like 1 & 2. I guess if you haven't moved beyond this point you could always just run some extra holes and tee-nuts and decide which you like better. Since they will be under your laminate you could just use the ones you liked and not the others.
Just thought I would throw that out there. I wasn't sure how permanent your overlay was going to be, but if you were going to finish it like the rest of the cab, just thought it may save some trouble in case you didn't care for it the other way.
Looking forward to seeing this finished. :D
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Whats the size for the marquee again ? ???
I got my cable back online.I can try to put something together. Will be using all vector files and make a background from scratch or something.
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:-\
Almost done.
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Wow
I JUST read through this thread. I echo and double all of the compliments you have recieved so far.
Just brilliant.
How is it that no one is talking about the L-shaped cutouts though? That detail just blew my mind. Did you see this somewhere or is that your idea? I cannot wait to see that with the lockdown bar corners. Do you have both the horizontal and vertical pieces?
You might have room to put a mini marquee between those two cutouts that had some type of pinball art on it with glass over it. Your thumbs would never know the difference. Maybe it would only light up when your hands were in the slots. That would be sick!
Really, just awesome man.
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Well thanks
Iam just putting the lockdown bar on for now, Its my first cab and iam excited to get it done. Those are great ideas for my next version though.
-BTW With this design I hope to have unlimited access to the trackball do anythin cross in front of it may be a hinderance. Maybe theres a way to get all in there...playfield glass too.. ;)
Oh ya I havent seen the pinball handholes before but somebody else may have.
Kind Regards\
Ben
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Well thanks
Iam just putting the lockdown bar on for now, Its my first cab and iam excited to get it done. Those are great ideas for my next version though.
-BTW With this design I hope to have unlimited access to the trackball do anythin cross in front of it may be a hinderance. Maybe theres a way to get all in there...playfield glass too.. ;)
Oh ya I havent seen the pinball handholes before but somebody else may have.
Kind Regards\
Ben
If you were to do it I think you would need to have routed out 1/4" deep square between the two openings so the artwork and glass could drop in and be flush with the surface to allow the trackball clearance. That would be too many steps back though.
I am really amazed at the entire design, quality of work, choices in materials and hardware. My jaw is still on the deck over the pinball controllers. You can bet you are gonna see more of that.
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I almost forgot. The whole way through the first half of the thread I kept saying to myself..."Boat in the Basement." No way is that thing going in the front door... :)
I see it is out of the garage and in the house, is the cab actually small enough or do you have double doors somewhere?
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I broke the cab down and carried all the parts in the house and up a stair well (except for the base-girlfriend helped) and put it back together in 13 min.
Brokedown the cab will easily fit through a 30" door.
\kraw
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How is it that no one is talking about the L-shaped cutouts though? That detail just blew my mind. Did you see this somewhere or is that your idea? I cannot wait to see that with the lockdown bar corners. Do you have both the horizontal and vertical pieces?
I had no idea that is what the L-shaped cutouts were for. I can hardly wait to see it with the lockdown bar.
Great work.
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after you put the laminate on how did you cut the holes so perfectly?
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Not trying to speak for KrawDaddy, but here is one way of doing it.
Use a flush cut laminate router bit. In the picture, the roller bearing rides along the wood (yellow) and cuts a perfect copy on the laminate (black).
It does cut an exact copy, so your original holes need to be really good. Of course, everything KrawDaddy does looks to be really good!!
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Wow I love those pinball holes. I'm designing a removable CP where the pinball buttons would be inside too (sort of). The idea is to also incorporate a tilt sensor (the part with the buttons should be able to move around a bit and sense motion). Basically like the pinball controllers you can buy for your PC.
I'm also going for a pinball plunger. Are you using a plunger too? There were some threads earlier on how to hook that up.
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Whooo Hoo it fits perfect!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
what a relief.
Cameras a little dirty.
Iam going to mask off the circular area over the monitor and spray paint the underside black to hide all wood areas.
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heres how the back worked out.
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Fits like a glove. ^_^ Good work.
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What is the measurements of your CP?
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you could also mask off the visable monitor area and paint the backside of the glass bezel.
(http://arcadegames.home.mindspring.com/krawbezel.jpg)
* update
i just reread your post and painting the bezel glass is exactly what you described. at first i thought you were going to spray paint the inside of the monitor box.
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Painting the glass was a total and udder failure. Dont waste your time unless you find special paint.
So..I bought black contact paper (shelf Paper) and it worked great. The glue stuck well and can probably be removed. It was placed on the back and the glue is transparent unless you look very close with a detail light. Good enough.
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:-\
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:: speechless ::
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The Harley Davidson of arcade cabinets.....
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Why not use smoked plexi or smoked glass ?
Wouldnt it be EVEN better ?
???
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Painting the glass was a total and udder failure. Dont waste your time unless you find special paint.
So..I bought black contact paper (shelf Paper) and it worked great. The glue stuck well and can probably be removed. It was placed on the back and the glue is transparent unless you look very close with a detail light. Good enough.
out of curiosity, please explain how it was a failure?
i both spray painted and used a foam roller to paint the backsides of plexi. i used some contact cleaner to remove any oily residue before painting and it worked out great.
btw your cab is coming together and looking fantastic!
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The Harley Davidson of arcade cabinets.....
what an insult!! this is the Vincent Black Shadow of arcade cabinets...
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Painting the glass was a total and udder failure. Dont waste your time unless you find special paint.
So..I bought black contact paper (shelf Paper) and it worked great. The glue stuck well and can probably be removed. It was placed on the back and the glue is transparent unless you look very close with a detail light. Good enough.
out of curiosity, please explain how it was a failure?
i both spray painted and used a foam roller to paint the backsides of plexi. i used some contact cleaner to remove any oily residue before painting and it worked out great.
btw your cab is coming together and looking fantastic!
I bought what I thought was good spray paint and cleaned the glass with thinners and then alcohol and the paint had no adhearance. Have you painted glass before? Maybe plexi has a slighly more porous surface. There is paint that is specifically made for glass. But I only found it in small quantities for art.
maybe I should have used contact cleaner.
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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Why not use smoked plexi or smoked glass ?
Wouldnt it be EVEN better ?
???
I used transparent gray since everyone I talked to recommended this. Oscar also had a review on it.
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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:: speechless ::
:o ditto
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What is the measurements of your CP?
Yo Krawdaddy, I'm interested as well. Can you hook us up with the basic dimensions of your CP?
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Looking good. Nice and dark. I think the contact paper was a good alternative. I'll have to keep that in mind. ^_^ The cool thing about that idea is, if you have bezel artwork or instrucaions, you could put those on the backside of the glass and the contact paper would tape it in place. Of course this would be on non-smoked glass. Can't wait to see it in action.
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that thing looks badass ;D hands down.
the only concern i have is with a cabinet so big and beefy that your monitor is a little on the small size and seems drarfed by the many of the cabs features. your marqee is even larger than your monitor!
i think you could afford (if you could afford) to go alittle bigger to get some better overall proportion.
but thats just my opinion, and opinions are like as#holes,everones got one..
looks kick ass!
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This is absolutely brilliant! :D
But I have one question... are you doing this for the enjoyment of the games..... or the woodworking? ;)
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Heres my final Marquee. Thanks to the anonymous artist!
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That is effing sweet.
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Whats funny is that I will always recall this cabinet as Nostalgia as opposed to Gold Mine.
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Anonymous? LOL... we know who you are. 8)
Where's that CP update!? It's been so long since an update you're probably working on the wiring.
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Anonymous? LOL... we know who you are. 8)
Where's that CP update!? It's been so long since an update you're probably working on the wiring.
Yea, it looks like PH's work.
1) There BLUE in it and...
2) It totally F'ing rocks!
If it was not PH then someone else has some mad skills out there.
This cab is going to be one of the best looking cabs out there. Most original too.
Can't wait to see the finished product.
Great job.
Bob
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Whats funny is that I will always recall this cabinet as Nostalgia as opposed to Gold Mine.
nostalgia.... the arcade he frequented... was called goldmine...
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What about the same marquee design but replacing "Goldmine" with "Nostalgia"?? Just a thought.
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What about the same marquee design but replacing "Goldmine" with "Nostalgia"?? Just a thought.
Why would he do that if he wants his machine to be called Goldmine? And why would there be a picture of a goldmine as the background if it says Nostalgia?
Looks great Krawdaddy, get us more pics :)
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I was being sarcastic because this machine will always be known as Nostalgia to most of us for a long time. Its grown on me.
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I like the Marquee a lot, but I don't think it is Pixelhugger's. It has blue, but not that electric, glowing blue he uses so often. And Pixel generally uses more line elements.
And, I could be wrong.
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I was thinking of swapping out the T-moulding for Blue. Any opinions?
Heres some progress...
-Marquee file has been uploaded and is being printed by arcadegraphics.com as they are the only ones that could print a marquee this large.
-I am waiting on 23 blue buttons from Happ.
-Iam currently building the walls for the pinball handholes
-All 4 way controls and trackball have been wired. Progress has slowed :)
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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I would love to see your cabinet with Blue t-moulding. Its awesome now but the added color will rock.
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There are too many black and blue MAME cabs in the world. I say GOLD t-molding! You got a theme going... run with it!
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No question about it go with blue t-molding.It would just make it look better.
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There are too many black and blue MAME cabs in the world. I say GOLD t-molding! You got a theme going... run with it!
Me two! Golden T-molding is the way to go with this machine, and any of the accents (i.e. yellow lighted coin drops, gold spinner knob, etc.) Can't wait to see a finished product!
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gold t-molding for sure
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I usually despise the color gold, but I think gold or yellow T-molding would look very good on your cab, especially with some yellow/gold accents like coin slots like mentioned.
Then again, with the background fo that marquee and the blue buttons on the way, blue would look great too.
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A little progress.....
My camera is still dirty.
My Marquee is on its way!
I still have to enclose a few more sides of the hand holes but I intend to leave the side toward the players open. The inside will remain hidden from the players perspective but will allow the glow from the trackball light to flood into the hand hole compartment.
Opinions?
I still have to hack the pinball lockdown bar ends and mount them. They will trim out the corner
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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:)
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temp wiring for pacman and galaga.
;D
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;)
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This thing looks amazing so far. I'm very impressed. I have a simple question - what type of wood are you using and how did you cut the pinball holes on the CP so smooth with the rounded corners and everything? Looks great! ;D
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This thing looks amazing so far. I'm very impressed. I have a simple question - what type of wood are you using and how did you cut the pinball holes on the CP so smooth with the rounded corners and everything? Looks great! ;D
Hey
Its cabinet grade plywood. Youll have to go to a cabinet maker to buy it. It was $40.00 bucks for a 5X5 sheet. Theres 13 plys and its imported from russia.
I make 99% of my cuts with a router and a piece of 2X2 steel angle iron I position as a straight edge for each cut. The corners are free hand.
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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Love those "Pinball Holes."
The only thing that feature needs is a better name... :-*
Did you consider having 4 buttons for the...ahem..."Pinball Holes?"
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Love those "Pinball Holes."
The only thing that feature needs is a better name... :-*
Did you consider having 4 buttons for the...ahem..."Pinball Holes?"
Hey
I had hoped to have 4 holes but Ive run out of room...a flaw in my design. The current button placement is the same as an actual machine. 2" from top to center of button and 3.5 from front to center of button. The hand holes would have to be cut longer. Maybe next time.
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Pinball pockets?
Still sounds somehow perverse.
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Pinball pockets?
Still sounds somehow perverse.
As in "Pocket Pinball?" :P
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Is pocket pinball better then pocket pool? ???
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Is pocket pinball better then pocket pool? ???
Yea it is more fun, but it still a single player game.
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Heres my idea for a marquee retainer. It seems to hold the plexi well and looks okay. It uses clear 3m double sided tape to hold it. The moulding is 1/4" carpet flexible cove moulding.
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???
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???
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That really looks great. I would consider a few staples as well, I imagine that over time the tension from the curved lexan will test the 3M tape.
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How about heating the lexan in the oven a bit and then mounting it to the cab? That way it will follow the form and not always be pulling against the curve.
Edit: and how about velcro strips instead of the carpet tape so that you can change the marquee?
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DONE!
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That looks slick - I can't wait to see it attached...
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:P
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Definitely needs new T-Moulding now. ;) Blue or Gold either one.
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I say we keep the black molding as is ! the overall look is too clean 'n slick to mess with 8)
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Looks AMAZING. :o
The colored t-molding will really show off the angles of the cab!
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looks good. i agree with adding a few black screws on top and bottom to firm up the marquee holder and trying out some blue tmolding. i also would install a 2nd bump pinball button in each pinball hole, right behind the regular button, and use my pinky finger to bump left or right in visual pinball. if your gonna have the holes might as well make em as functional as possible. maybe install a white colored plastic window in the hole to let light thru instead of leaving it open. and if the bezel contact paper adhesive method doesnt look 100% perfect id redo it with the glass paint. this cabinet is too cool to start being impatient and rushing things. take your time and make each step perfect.
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Just wanted to stop by and say WOW!!! Have been following this from the beginning, and your woodwork is inspirational. When space allows (maybe in the next house ::)) I plan to do something very similar. Hope you have your plans out by then ;)
Also want to cast my vote for blue t-molding. I really think that would set it off!
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Looks fantastic! I am really looking forward to seeing your pinball hold-down bar. Getting very close to finished now.
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KrawDaddy, you are a genius !!! That is a MONSTER cab, simply beautiful.
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KrawDaddy,
Are you doing anything in the controls to replicate the "nudge" or "Bang back" in Visual Pinball? Also, what front end are you using?
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KrawDaddy,
Are you doing anything in the controls to replicate the "nudge" or "Bang back" in Visual Pinball? Also, what front end are you using?
Hey
I was thinking of using a vibration detector. Anybody had any luck with this?
-Ive placed 4 screws to support the tension of the lexan. Thanxs for the tip. I wont have to worry about it now.
-I havent decided which front end Iam going to use yet but it will prolly be MAMEWAH
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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LOL.
I know it's too late, but as an alternative name...
"BIG Pimpin'!" ;D
Again, man, I like that cab.
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messin 'round with photoshop...
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Wow! Now thats what I call great expectations.
Now ya got me wondering......
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ROFL... I'm sorry, I just noticed where your front bump was. I can see you playing vpin when your wife walks in while your bumping your table. "HOW COULD YOU!", she darts off down the hall sobbing. ;D
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Hey, Kraw. How do the Betson 4-ways compare to some of the others? I'm in search of a ball-top 4-way, but don't have the space (or the desire to route or cut) to add a reunion 4-way with plate. Have you tried some of the other alternatives to be able to compare? If they work well for Dig Dug, Ms PacMan/PacMan, Donkey Kong, Ghouls & Ghosts (these are the ones I play most), I will probably get one. Also, how much is shipping from Betson?
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GREAT JOB! GREAT CRAFTSMANSHIP! WOW!
Welcome to the "monster machine's" club .......
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:P
Out of curiosity.... what sort of expenses did this run? I've been following the progress and am totally impressed with the skill you've put into this project!!! Definitely an awesome machine...... I expect to see this one in the Hall of Fame!
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Wow! lot of questions.
Its been some time since I checked my thread so Ill be commenting on questions pretty quick.
The wire is 16 AWG Machine tool wire from work...I know Its cumbersome. And its a mess...first CP and Iam still making changes.
But its done. ya..
player buttons 1 2 3 are parallel with the red 4 way buttons and the three blue trackball buttons for missile command. The 4 ways and player 1 are in parallel. pinballs are in parallel with appropriate buttons. there will be a molex connector for the coin mechs I used WEGA push-in connectors for splices as I shy from double crimping
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Looks like you were doin' a little GameBoy-ing between wiring, huh?
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LOL, can't put those little things down for too long!
I love the bump button and plunger, hope that works out, would love to see how to do those mods!
This is a dream cab btw!!!!! w-o-w
Anthony
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Well heres the finished CP.
I still need to mill my pinball lockdown bar and mount it, 5 min job. Ive decided not to mount nudge buttons, maybe next time along with the plunger. I may have some mineshaft artwork made for the CP...We'll see.
Iam going to buy some standard mame artwork for the sides and some other misc decal for other areas. This one is now ready to playtest so I can start making changes for my next version after New Years. Iam going to start with the artwork and CP this time.
I am sure everyone is gettin alittle tired of looking at this thread anyway.
I hope to be giving the dimensions of the CP sometime next week. I know the machine is rather large but it seems to fit the living room just right and it is easily transportable. My friends are in love. This cabinet really shines with everyone gathered around it. I think I accomplished everything I wanted in my first machine, so Iam satisfied. Although it lacks on the artwork side of the house, Ive learned enough now to build a real nice one and in the mean time I have something to play!
BTW, Iam extreamly happy with the layout, no complaints from anyone. I definatly recommend placing the 4 way front and center and the trackball behind. I can get great bowling swipes without hitting my hand on a joystick behind it. And No my hand does not hit the glass.
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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Thanks for all the help guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hopefully, the next one will be fit for the Hall of Fame.
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<Standing Ovation>
Encore! Encore! Cried the audience in thousands, ENCORE!
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^ ahahhahahahahahh ;D
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Thanks for all the help guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hopefully, the next one will be fit for the Hall of Fame.
well, in the mean time, you'll have my vote for this one [can't wait to see some CP art on there!] Great job!
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awesome work. congrats on a job well done. keep us posted on your ideas for the next version.
any info on how the finished monitor rotate mechanism works? is it motorized? pics please
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Your cab has my vote for the hall of fame and a mamey,great work Kraw!One question why not splurge on matching side art?
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Yea, it seems a shame to just slap something on the side.
At least redo the marquee logo and stack the words "the Gold Mine".
Awesome job by the way. Very impressive.
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Oh this baby has already won the Mamey for best cab. I just told my 'judge buddies' I wasn't going to post it until it was 'done'. The only one I could imagine knocking this one out of the spotlight would be the Mission Impossible cab, but we all know that that one is just an urban myth! ;D
Congrats Kraw, I'll wait a week or so to see if you get pics of the finishing touches, but the crown is definitely yours!
http://www.mameworld.net/massive/Awards/Cabinets/cabinets.html
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Oh this baby has already won the Mamey for best cab. I just told my 'judge buddies' I wasn't going to post it until it was 'done'. The only one I could imagine knocking this one out of the spotlight would be the Mission Impossible cab, but we all know that that one is just an urban myth! ;D
Congrats Kraw, I'll wait a week or so to see if you get pics of the finishing touches, but the crown is definitely yours!
Unbelievable!
I had though the cab was too lacking in the artwork area (and other places) to ever take the idea of a Mamey or The Hall of Fame too seriously...
Well maybe this will entice me enough to get off my bumm and some dimensions out there so others can fix my mistakes. ;)
Next tuesday I have access to a CNC mill and hope to cut my pinball bar.
Kind Regards\
Kraw
Ill be out of town this weekend
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...the Mission Impossible cab
Impossibel?? Was that a freudian slip? ::) Or is there another cab thread I should be following....
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I don't know what to say.
It's just too awesome for words. It's the ultimate mame machine bar none.
It's stylistic, it's functional, it's slick.
I stand back with the crowd and bow to you, I am not worthy.
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...the Mission Impossible cab
Impossibel?? Was that a freudian slip? ::) Or is there another cab thread I should be following....
Heh heh heh play on words ;)
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Very innovative and unique. haha did the "measurements of.." question ever get answered. maybe Kraw will put up a build diary on the web answering these questions?
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Very innovative and unique. haha did the "measurements of.." question ever get answered. maybe Kraw will put
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KrawDaddy, for the life of me I CAN'T remember where I saw this, I want to say it was OSCAR but I am not sure. Someone made an actual bump sensor using some sort of shock sensor from radioshack. It was fairly simple to do, and all you had to do was mount it to somewhere stable and it would create an input that you could wire to the keyboard encoder. I don't know if I am just rambling here and you already know of this, but if not maybe someone here remembers where to look for it and can help you out.
Amazing woodworking too, very impressive.
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Here is some tilt/bump info:
http://www.arcadecontrols.com/arcade_vdt.shtml
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Heres a little update...
Pinball bar has been milled. I milled a spacer to elevate the plate and allow for the glass bevel clearance. Feels more realistic.
What do ya think?
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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(http://www.diegotorres.com.ar/mensajeitor/foro/caritas/erstaunt090.gif)
Sweet! And excellent idea!
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Sorry for my ignorance, but could you explain what that does? Is it just aesthetic or does it serve a purpose? As you can tell I do not have a lot of knowledge about pinballs, but that looks intriguing.
Thanks again and keep up the good work, Fred.
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The metal piece is off a real pinball machine. Its modified to mount on my CP and provide the feel and comfort of the beveled corner for my palms.
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Oh man, that is TIGHT! I wanna come over and play, lol.
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Oh man, that is TIGHT! I wanna come over and play, lol.
Well, that's because he has the screws in there. I'm sure if it's TOO tight, he can back 'em out and make it a bit looser. And how can you tell if it's tight just by looking at a picture? ;)
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Oh man, that is TIGHT!
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And then put little microswitches (is that redundant?) under them and map those to nudge...
I think if you had said "little tiny microswitches - the miniscule kind", THAT would have been redundant ;)
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Source for tiny microswitches. My daughter just got the two barbies from the princess and the pauper. These things sing. In the box they had a very small microswitch that was wired to the back of the barbies with a plug that is used as the demo button when in the box. While I was taking apart all of those wire ties, stitched thread, tape and zip ties I saw the switches. I pilfered them instantly. Don't know what I'll use them for yet.
PS, why are the toys so imbedded with the packages now. (I know theft) What a pain in the azz. Are these things machine packed? Nah they must have hundreds of tiny fingers in asia doing it. Talk about a suckey job. Oh well, toy remover from package is my station in life on x-mas morn.
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Would there be any chance you could send me the plans for your Arcade please? I so want to make a cabinet like your's it looks amazing.
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this is probably the sweetest cabinet i ever saw :o
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This cabinet really looks fantastic and has given me tons of ideas for my project
But I am not used to having the monitor laying back so far
How much of an angle do you have it on KrawDaddy?
Is this so that all four players have a better view of the screen?
I am worried about glare and feeling like I need to lean way over to get a good view.
If you could take a few pictures of a game from the player's eye view that would be very helpful! :)
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That cabinet is so great, one would not need any other arcade machines, especially not a warlords cocktail... :angel:
But seriously, nice job. Great innovation.
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Thanks for the compliments guys. The monitor is at 35 degrees. Its great for verticle games but Iam going to up the ante to 40 degrees on the next version. I dont have a ceiling light fixture in my living room so glare has not been a problem. One flaw which I have taken care of in my next version of the monitor box is that the screen sits too high from the CP when in the horizontal position. Also I have come up with a way to shave 3 to 4 inches off the width of the cab. The next version will move the marquee closer and the sides will shroud the monitor more. I also want to use a motor to rotate the monitor.
Also, it has come to my attention that people think my cab is too big. Thanks for the input....
Many people have asked for plans but Iam not going to release them. this was my first cab and has its share of design flaws. My next version will be started this spring and I will be posting measurements as I build it so others can build along. I will also release any artwork that I have made.
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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Hey, just want to say its an amazing cab you've already built - And I'm looking forward to seeing your mark 2!
I started drawing up plans for a rotating monitor a while back based on http://lillypad.4mg.com/lillypad/rotatepad.html - which is what I believe you based yours on?
I stopped when I realised I was after a large monitor (25" or bigger) as I figured it would be hard to implement. Seeing yours has re-inspired me however! I like your monitor 'stand' that sits on the base unit - looks nice and sturdy - but I have a couple of questions if thats ok.
1) It appears that the monitor (and the circular frame its attached to) is simply placed with its 4 castors resting on the 'hole' peice, and against the 2 castors pointing 'up' (I hope that made sense). Is that all that keeps it in place? I'm planning a monitor at less of an angle and am concerned at how to keep it fixed.
2) How do you rotate it? you don't appear to have left a 'slot' for the wheel to stick out at the side. Do you have to lift the glass and push it round? Also - what keeps it in position once rotated?
Oh, and also - I assume it is degaussed (or re-powered) on rotation to correct for colour issues (magnetic lines etc...). Is this manual or automatic?
Apologies for all the questions - I *really* like what you've done.
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Hey,
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Well your correct about the casters, thats all it is.
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Having the ability to go back and change the monitor angle or anything else is a great feature of having a modular design.
I'm shopping for parts right now.
I hope I'll be ready to build along with you on your M2 project
Could you post a parts list of what you plan to use?
I had an idea of using ball transfer units around the wood circle for the monitor rotation
(http://www.balltransfer.com/cover.jpg)
http://www.balltransfer.com/index.htm
http://www.omnitrack.co.uk/
Possibly sandwiching the lower portion of the circle to keep it from flipping up.
These roll really well, you might have seen them on a conveyor assembly before
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What if we designed the cab around a monitor box that had a heavy duty industrial hinge up front so we could rotate the monitor and change its angle from Pac-man layback to verticle for shooting games!
Kraw
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I'm not sure what you mean..
Have you seen the rotating mount from the Quadro arcade machines?
Carsten Wessels used one in his Centipede cabinet.
http://www.retrospieler.de/e-monitormount.html
http://www.retrospieler.de
It looks like it was made from a bicycle rim and some old skate wheels or something. :)
Very good design though.
It should hold the monitor just fine at any angle.
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I meant to change the angle on the fly. just as you would rotate it on the fly.
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OK, I get it now
You could put a hinge near the top or bottom of the screen or a pivot in the middle.
I think a hinge at the bottom would be best so that you could keep a constant on the amount of spacing from the control panel.
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Having the ability to go back and change the monitor angle or anything else is a great feature of having a modular design.
I'm shopping for parts right now.
I hope I'll be ready to build along with you on your M2 project
Could you post a parts list of what you plan to use?
I had an idea of using ball transfer units around the wood circle for the monitor rotation
(http://www.balltransfer.com/cover.jpg)
http://www.balltransfer.com/index.htm
http://www.omnitrack.co.uk/
Possibly sandwiching the lower portion of the circle to keep it from flipping up.
These roll really well, you might have seen them on a conveyor assembly before
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Well, I really like the Quadro mount too.
The "skate wheels" fit into the rim so that it's impossible for it to flip up
You would just need to weld the octagon frame and drill out holes for the wheels, motor mount, and switches.
You could weld your tilt hinges onto the octagon frame as well.
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I found out from Carsten that the Quadro mount IS actually based on a bicycle rim and the motor to turn it is just a wiper motor off of a car ;D
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Hey KrawDaddy!
Where did you go dude?
I'm still working on getting my parts together.
I have an ArcadeVGA and IPAC on the way and I hope to get a monitor within the next week
Can you give me a rough idea of the other stuff I'll need so I can be working on getting it all together?
If I end up with a few extra materials that will still be fine.
I'll just use it on my second project ;D
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Hey dude, Iam still with ya!
I have a friend that is going to build with me. Were going to set a web site up so you can follow along with us. This weekend we hope to make some important decisions on the design and then start with the monitor box. Youll need a good router!
As for arcade parts, take your time, and buy em when you need them. New products come out all the time.
Kind Regards\
Kraw
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Hey thats good news! Looking forward to seeing more of you superb handy work....
I've been throwing together some sketch designs for my cab, and I have to stay I my well pinch your monitor box design. ;D Although It does not look as nice as yours as I want screen to be more upright.... (makes the curve at the back a lot sharper).
I'm new to routing (this could be interesting) but now I've got an excuse to learn. You've already thrown plenty of tips in this thread, so I'd love to see the odd tip on setting up jigs etc... (hint hint!) I'd be interested to know how the triangular supports at the inside bottom of monitor box are attached....
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I have an older router attached to a little routing table
but I have been thinking about getting a new one.
Can you recommend one that doesn't cost a fortune?
I'd also like to know how you deal with all of the router dust.
Router dust makes my lungs angry
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I'm A fan of this kit -
Porter Cable 1-34 In. HP Variable Speed Router Kit
Porter Cable
1-34 In. HP Variable Speed Router Kit
Model 694VK
$199.00
(Home Depot Listing)
Not sure what price range you are looking to stay in. This kit has a fixed and plunge base, so you could save some money by picking up just the fixed base model. The reason I'm sold on them is that the Woodshop at my local college uses them - and they have highschoolers beating up on the equipment all the time. The guy who runs the shop says the Porter Cable Routers are the only thing the kids haven't been able to break (5+ years of year round use).
I just picked up the above for my home shop a few weeks ago, and I think they are rock solid. Possibly the last router you'll need.
As for the dust - usually just a disposable dust mask works for me. If it is mainly your router table causing the discomfort - look into a dusct collection cabinet. They work in tandem with a shop-vac or other dust collection system. Very slick, and effective.
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I have a Porter Cable sander that I like quite a bit
Maybe i'll give their router a try
what's the plunge base for anyway?
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I have a Porter Cable sander that I like quite a bit
Maybe i'll give their router a try
what's the plunge base for anyway?
The plunge base allows for the cutting blade to spin above the work surface.
When it 'plunges' you are pushing the blade down into the wood.
This allows you to make cuts inside the outer edges of your panel.
Useful for cutting out trackball and joystick holes.
A regular "non-plunge" router is good for trimming corners and edges of wood.
I have a Porter Cable sawzall and love it.
BobbyG66
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The second issue you had (wood dust) can be somewhat handled by the first (what router).
Get yourself the Porter Cable Router with the vacuum attachment handle.
As for costing a fortune, please define a fortune in terms that tell us what it means monetarily, and quality-wise.
I'm going to bet the majority of people who have used them (myself included) will tell you Porter Cable ends up costing very little when compared to replacement costs, headaches due to inferior design, horsepower, features, and durability of other brands.
The Porter Cable line of routers also has to have the most varied and extensive line of attachments for a router out there, which means if there's an application you want to use it for, someone probably thought of it, and made a jig or attachment to make your work easier to do.
As for dust, find yourself a dust mask able to filter down to 5 microns (I think it's microns, anyhoo) and you should GREATLY eliminate your problems with wood dust.
Other measures will also help, such as an air filtration uinit bought or built by yourself, and a vac system, but those are WAY beyond cheap and reasonable solutions to implement for simply building a cab.
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OK :)
You guys have convinced me
I'll be shopping for a Porter Cable Router with the vacuum attachment handle
Thanks for the recommendation!
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Played mame last night, and just wanted to bump this thread, since it made me get in the hobby to begin with.