Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: ThePaul on July 12, 2004, 04:33:13 pm
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So I got my slot cutting bit from MCLS .. but I have no idea how to assemble the thing LOL. I can't find any info on it on the web?
there is the cutting part the shank(?) two washers, a bearing and a plastic spacer(?)
What order do I screw these things together in? =)
Thanks for helping this poor noob.
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Mines a Freud but I'm sure there all assembled somewhat the same :)
Here's some pics I took of mine to help you get an idea.
(http://twinpinefarm.net/images/slotcutter2.jpg)
Pay particular attention to the way the cutting edge is pointing ... if you put the cutter on backwards ... it's going to smoke like your wood is on fire ... lol (It doesn't take long to figure it out ... your eyes start watering and then you start choking from all the smoke blowing up in your face ... lol ... as you can probably tell I've made that mistake ;) )
(http://twinpinefarm.net/images/slotcutter.jpg)
Hope that helps you out ;D
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another Question? Project arcade calls for a 1/16 or a 3/32 slot cutter. I purchased the 3/32 looking @ the digram @ t-molding.com. The slot is way to big and the molding doesn't fit snug. What the deal? IS there a biger molding that I could buy for 3/4 face and 3/32 slot?
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Sorry I haven't read that book :-\
I only know of two slot sizes ... 1/16" and 5/64"
1/16" being used for 3/4" t-molding
5/64" being used for 9/16" & 13"/16 and larger
When picking a slot cutter .... there's one key thing to remember....
Subtract 1/32" from the t-molding channel insert width.
For example ....
- 3/4" channel insert width is 3/32"
3/32" - 1/32" = 1/16" (correct slot cutter width)
- 13/16" channel insert width is 7/64"
7/64" - 1/32" = 5/64" (correct slot cutter width)
For your t-molding to fit correctly ... you'll need a t-molding with a channel insert width of 1/8" and to be honest ... I've never seen one that wide :-\
Only thing I can tell you is to either use glue to hold it in place (poor solution if you ask me) ... or the better method is to fill the slot with wood putty, sand it level, buy the correct slot cutter, and re-cut it. (... if you have a variable random orbital sander ... it will make quick work of it ... I'd say an hour for the wood putty to dry, 20 minutes to sand it level and 5 minutes to re-cut the slot ... a simply fix :) )
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Why the book mentions 3/32 is beyond me?" usally a 1/16 or 3/32 will do" My fault for not checking up on it. I'll glue it in... not going to buy another 30$ bit. Sucks if it doesn't work out.
Thanks for your help.
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No worries. I've put new T-molding on old cabs and there were pretty loose, just run a bead of glue in there before you press it in. If it starts to pop up run some pieces of masking tape around the edge until it dries.
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"Subtract 1/32" from the t-molding channel insert width." ?
Explain this image. 1/16 molding in a 3/32 slot?
(http://t-molding.com/cart/product_image.php?imageid=2)
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BigNIck, the 3/32" is from barb to barb on the t-molding. You want the barbs on the t-molding to dig into the slot so the barbs will hold the t-molding on. Therefore, you must make the slot smaller than the barb to barb dimension.