Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Gradius on June 27, 2004, 03:13:16 am
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I've build two arcade control panels with sticks and pushbuttons and I'd like to build a Spinner. What's the best option. Do somebody sell already made spinners including everything ready to work, with the case or not? Or do they only sell the knob for those who want to install it with a hacked mouse. Also, what mouse would be best for hacking, optical or ball mouse? Do you recommend me the optipac? Could I build a spinner using a dial radio knob or should I buy a fultra or oscar spinner?
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Check out Oscar's site:
http://www.oscarcontrols.com (http://www.oscarcontrols.com)
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If you want to build your own, check this out.
http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=10;action=display;threadid=17522
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Why not build one ?
I am in the process of building a cross between "thenastys-spinner" and http://www.gearheadlabs.com/spinner/
My cost is under $12 ..not including an old mouse to hack. It's not finished yet but I am fairly confident that it will work fairly smooth.
The reason I am building mine is there aren't that many spinner games there are only 16 or 19 if you include the push pull type spinner games. I personally only play a few and I can't see spending all that money ...maybe I am just cheap.
BTW..the nasty thanks for the guide you made for everyone.
Just my 2 cents
Ed
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Quick question for spinner owners/builders. Should the spinner have up and down travel or should it be as snug as possible (vertically) while still allowing free rotation?
Thanks.
by the way, I was looking at the QuickSpin by Gearhead (www.gearheadlabs.com/spinner/)--which looks very nice--and it looks like it has vertical travel between the first metal collar under the control panel and up to the bottom of the control panel.
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Anyone?
Also, How do you keep the spindle from having side-to-side movement? I've got a 1/4" spindle and a 1/4" bushing, but there is still some play which translates into wobble at the encoder wheel.
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while it can be fun to build them... the cost savings isnt that mcuh... and it will take a bit of time to order, wait for parts, or hunt for parts (gas$ + time), build time...ect...
and then... you still will have a spinner that is lower quality with a wobble and some 'play' and maybe even a bit of sensor allignment issues.
I recomend the slikstick spinner because of the dual bearings ( www.slikstick.com ), or oscars latest vortex spinner.
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Yes, I fully agree with your reasoning on this topic as it is generally not much more expensive to buy than it is to build.
However, at this point I am trying to build many of these components mostly to learn the technology and building techniques. I will likely use these "scratch" built products for a secondary cab or for some standalone control panels. It is very likely that my main cabinet will have all bought pieces.
About 2 years ago I built a desktop control panel with two 8-way sticks and 6 buttons each using a hacked keyboard. This was a very fun and educational learning experience and I am very happy that I did it.
So, I will continue to hack together some controls as educational pieces.
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goto the project annoucements, the first one there shows how to build one or click on my link below the sig.
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I recomend the slikstick spinner because of the dual bearings ( www.slikstick.com )
I agree. The Slikstik Tornado is an incredible controller. Tempest plays like a dream with it.
-S
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Anyone?
Also, How do you keep the spindle from having side-to-side movement? I've got a 1/4" spindle and a 1/4" bushing, but there is still some play which translates into wobble at the encoder wheel.
Don't use a bronze bushing, use a bearing instead. You can get a bearing with the exact ID to match the OD of your spinner shaft. Check out any hobby store that sells Radio Control cars/planes, or online www.towerhobbies.com will (http://www.towerhobbies.com will) has a full line of bearings.
With a bearing you can eliminate 100% of shaft wobble side to side. Up and down motion can be limited with bearings on the shaft and a metal collar around the shaft to prevent up/down motion. You'll have a slight bit of up/down play, but even as much as an eighth of an inch is fine as long as the encoder wheel isn't hitting the encoder board...
Mike B