Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Ryan on August 11, 2002, 01:37:46 pm
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I have an old Asteroids Deluxe and the control panel will be changed obviously. The overlay will be coming off and new will be put on.
My question is, the holes where the old buttons were need to be filled on the metal control panel, how do I go about doing this? I had read an example at one point that used some type of metal contact on the back of the holes and then used bondo. Just don't know enough about this, does anyone know what example it was? Anyone have anything similar to this, or know of some products that may work?
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Just avoid using welds as they will likely warp the CP. I heard of someone using epoxy to glue metal backing to the holes and then use bondo to fill in the recess. With epoxy, you'll have to sand the area to get a good grip on the metal. I'm planning on using this method unless I hear a better idea.
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I would say to do just as Keith O said, but I would weld the backing plate on rather than epoxy.
You definitely wouldn't want to stick weld, as you would most likely warp or burn though the CP. You could do it very easily with a small mig or wire-feed. I've done such repairs with my Millermatic and they've turned out just fine. I use a flux core wire, so I still need to mindful of the heat, but I typically use a very low setting as it isn't really necessary to get a full penetration weld for this kind of repair. If you mig weld with a bottle (CO2, Argon, mixed, etc...), you can weld as thin as 22ga. sheet without burn through or warping.
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The welding is not going to happen, I dont weld, and the welders I do know are used to welding huge welds on pipe. But the epoxy looks like my way to go.
Does anyone know of specific names for products to use?
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In that case, check out "cold weld" epoxies. There are a couple of different types, but popular ones are JB Weld, JB Quik, and I believe LocTite makes some, too.
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There is also epoxy puddy. Usally you can find it at an auto parts store. Works the same as JB Weld, and would might do better for patching holes than the "liquid" epoxy. Just another idea.
What ever type you use I would make sure to score the surface you will be applying it to very well, or it won't have anything to attach to.
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Whichever way you decide to go with, please post the results (pics would be great too) as I'm sure many here (including myself) would like to know how it turned out.
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Happ's makes button-fillers - essentially, plastic plus that should fit into the holes. Not sure if this is something you could use.
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The Happs is called the button plug for .98 cents, but looks like it would still show where the old buttons were. I just looked on Home Depots web site, it looks like they have a number of epoxys for metal. I think I will try the epoxys and one of their fillers.
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any welder can do this. even stick just lower the voltage. but MiG would be my choice.
a auto repair shop could do it for you. slip a worker $5.00 and a 6 pack and both you and him are happy
I got lucky I worked for Toyota a few years back and I save a few laps of steel they were tossing out. I saved them for some reason . as time went on I found out about mame. I took my Ms pac man CP to my factory and maintenance bent the metal into Ms pac CP shape for me for free.
check the recycle centers for metal sheets also ask friends or family who work in a factory. most maintance in a factory can bend the sheet into a simple "L" for you.
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My cabinet was a boxing game when I got it: 2 sticks with 3 buttons each. It was originally Vanguard: 1 stick left, 4 buttons right.
When they did the conversion, they just put a piece of plexi on top of the metal and put new holes through the metal. Didn't bother to do anything at all with the old holes. Since one of the joysticks is mounted right in the middle of the cluster of vanguard buttons, the plexi has a couple cracks. It's not too bad, though, esp. considering the quarter counter is at 10,000
Bob