Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: IncrdblHulk7 on June 16, 2004, 05:02:13 pm
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Just wanted to post the rough CP layout that I am planning on building. Any comments would be appreciated. I plan on building a modular panel - similar to Docs. Each panel will be 12" wide x 14"(???) deep. The Cab would be able to accept 3 of these panels at a given time - making it 36" x 14".
I have attached a JPG of a couple of the panel layouts that I could come up with. Made the pic low res - so blow I have described what is on each one.
1st row (1 and 2 column) - Vinicator Panels - Trigger modified joysticks
1st row (3 column) - Spinner panel with 3 buttons (enough?)
2nd row (1 and 2 column) - Fighter Panels - P360 with 7 buttons
2nd row (3 column) - TB with 3 buttons
3rd row (1 and 2 column) - Ikari Panels - LS-30 Rotary with 4 buttons (enough?)
3rd row (3 column) - WICO 4-way with 3 buttons (enough?)
Cant think of any other panels that I really want - for now! I would make some spacer panels - for example using 4-way panel and 2 spacers.
The main thing I was hoping on comments on is the depth of panels (I guess defined by depth of TB panel for GoldenTee play) and the number of buttons on spinner, 4-way, and Ikari panels.
Thanks
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Sounds cool! As for depth, 14" should be fine. My panels are 12" deep and have no issues with the trackball (hitting the glass when playing golf/bowling games).
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Some comments/suggestions I'd make are:
1) You'd save yourself alot of storage space, and money, if you went to (6) 6" panels for the joystick/button combos.
That would also let you build 1 button, 2 button and 3 button panels to use for games like Asteroids (http://home.comcast.net/~juniordog2/photos/asteroids.JPG), and Space Duel (http://home.comcast.net/~juniordog2/photos/spaceduel.jpg).
2) You need 4 buttons for Star Trek (http://home.comcast.net/~juniordog2/photos/startrek.JPG), if you want to play it with the spinner panel.
3) I would make the trackball panel have just the ball, and use a button panel next to it.
The buttons on the top like that are going to be really uncomfortable to use.
4) Three buttons should cover you on the 4-way, unless someone else knows of a game I don't play that uses more.
5) If you make the spinner separate from the buttons, you could put a joystick in place of the buttons for Tron/etc... (http://home.comcast.net/~juniordog2/photos/tron.JPG)
6) You may also want "regular" two-stick panels for Robotron/Smash TV/Total Carnage (http://home.comcast.net/~juniordog2/photos/smashtv.JPG).
7) The depth of the panels is a necessary evil if you want to play GT on it.
8 ) I've found the three button configuration like this (http://home.comcast.net/~juniordog2/photos/3button.JPG) more comfortable than the arched one, like you are showing.
9) If you do drop to 6" panels, I would recommend pushing the joysticks to the outsides of the panels like this (http://home.comcast.net/~juniordog2/photos/smashtv.JPG).
It lets you get 9" between centers on the middle ones, which is close to the distance on a factory Robotron.
10) You might want to add a Defender (http://home.comcast.net/~juniordog2/photos/defender.JPG) panel down the road for people who DON'T suck at it, like I do.
It's one of those "Oh My God!, you have THAT" panels.
11) The 36" x 14" panel should let you squeak a two-wheel driving panel in at some point too.
Having the extra depth that you do will really help, in that you can cock the wheels off to the side slightly.
That's about all I can think of.
Let us know how everything turns out for you.
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I think your panel layouts all look good. The only popular game layout you might be missing is Tron/Discs of Tron (spinner on left, 8 way button joystick on right) but you could probably simulate that with your spinner panel and vindicator panel side by side.
You probably don't need to limit yourself to 12" panels - you could use 2", 4", 6", 8" and 12" panels if you just space dowels (or another mounting connector) every 2 inches. If you have access to a table saw, you just set the fence once for each size and then cut as many as you want. Having separate joystick and button panels also helps simplify expansion (just add joysticks/buttons as you get them) and wiring (the RJ45's are great for single panels).
However, the above are relatively minor points - I think as long as you have your key games covered and know how you want to wire and secure the panels you should go for it!
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Thanks for all the input. I havent updated the drawing yet, but I am going to use a straight 3 button configuration for the 4-way and Spinner panels. I am also going to move the TB buttons onto the right side of TB panel (in a triangle configuration). Hopefully that will keep them from being annoying during golden tee. I want to place those buttons on the TB panel - just in case I have only the TB panel in my cab at a time.
My next questions is - what do you think of the button colors? I was about to order the controls based on the colors in the diagram above, but then I saw this issue brought up in another thread. I was trying to give each panel it's own color (Ikari - yellow, 4-way - red, fighter#1-green, fighter#2-orange, ...) . Do you think this would be an eye-sore? Should I stick to a more uniform color theme?
My Cab is most likely going to be stained wood (Oak), black T-molding, and grey laminate on the CP.