Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: mahuti on June 13, 2004, 05:29:12 pm
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We discussed a new swappable panel idea in this thread (http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=16113;start=0)
This weekend I tried to finally get a this new solution completely finished.
I did, and it worked, but not to my satisfaction, so I've given up the idea, and gone back to cables.
My goals were as follows
1. Create swappable panels that required no cables
2. Easy to install on the panel side for ease in the creation of multiple panels
3. Requires little maintenance
4. Very little explanation required to work the system
5. Robust & resistant to damage.
6. Cheap
Of those goals, I accomplished all but number 5. (and sort of number 3) Basically the system worked very well. Current, ground and button presses traveled from the screwheads to the leafs very well. I installed a system to keep the panel locked down with little effort. Using thin sheet metal & screws I was able to keep the system cheap and simple. On the panel side it was VERY simple & cheap. It would have required very little maintenance on the panel side, no adjustment on either side.
The major drawback was this... sometimes while inserting the panel into the cabinet, the leafs would slide under the screwheads and when the panel was removed, the leafs would get bent all out of whack. It took me a long time to set this up & install. Once I got the cabinet side installed correctly, the panels were pretty simple, but the ability to screw up the contacts when you remove the panel is pretty much a deal breaker. One of these solutions would be quite easy to create for a company... doing it in you garage, however, is a challenge.
Though, I'm officially giving up on this idea, I had fun trying it out. I'm still not happy with printer type connectors, but I think I will live with them for now.
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Again - ROTATE!!! ;D You can get 3 panels going with a rotatable idea. I've thought of a way to rotate 4 panels too, but not a big fan of it. Rotating solves all your goals above. The 2 drawbacks to rotating over swapping:
1) If you wanted more than 3 sets of panels, not much you can do other than make one of the panels modular as well.
2) Can't have huge controls on it since it has to spin (like a big steering wheel or T2 gun) - BUT - again you can make one of the panels modular and plug in a wheel, gun when you need it. 1UP plugs T2 guns onto his rotating panels. I didn't go that route, I am fine with the 3 panels I have, but if you are hell bent on a big control, that would be a way to do it.
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My case is that I have an original Defender machine that I want to keep in original shape. Spinning just won't work.
For me, swappable is the answer.
I definitely think spinning is awesome, and the right way to go on a custom cabinet.
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My case is that I have an original Defender machine that I want to keep in original shape. Spinning just won't work.
For me, swappable is the answer.
I definitely think spinning is awesome, and the right way to go on a custom cabinet.
Check out my website (click the WWW link to the left). My cab is basically a Defender shape and I rotate. The way I rotate my panels, most style cabinets can be retro-fitted to include my rotating panel design - with some slight modifications. Defender is my favorite game, I made the shape to be close to it's shape - the only reason I didn't make it exact is that I didn't try to get the exact dimensions, I just made it free-hand to look similar. So the shape of the Defender cab can work, the issue may be the space you have to work with that may be easily fixed.
How "deep" is your CP (from the glass to the edge by your belly)?
You would need at least 10" (I have 12" on mine). If it is less than 10", if you didn't mind a slight modification to your cab - you could easily build out the two sides of the cab by the CP a few inches (the two sides next to the coin door), you could make it completely flush and with some paint you would never see it. Hmmm.. that coin door may be an issue too, depending on how far that goes into the guts of the machine... How deep does that go into the machine?
One of my 3 panels is an almost exact replica of the defender layout as well, which was THE reason I went rotatable, I HAD to have a Defender panel - actually Defender was the reason I even built my cab.
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I don't like rotating panels. A quick snap-in swappable panel is more to my taste.
BTW a regular CP would be more like 6" or 7" deep.