Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: sofakng on May 31, 2004, 12:54:43 pm
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Today I made my first cuts on my new (and first) arcade cabinet. I'm following the Project Arcade book so I'm pretty much using LuSiD's plans. After I finish all my cuts, I'm going to paint the cabinet black.
So, should I get "Smooth" T-Molding or "Leather texture" T-Molding? I'm not sure what the difference is, but those are the two listed on happcontrols.com.
Also, how many feet should I order?
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Another question regarding T-Molding...
The project arcade book recommends a 3/32nd bit for the router and it says it's difficult to find. Does Lowe's or Home Depot carry them? Should I mail order one of these?
Lastly, if I plan on using plexiglass (or lexan) or my control panel, can I still use the standard 3/4" T-Molding from Happcontrols.com and that same routing bit? I'm assuming the T-Molding should cover the plexiglass/lexan AND the wood for the control panel... Will that work?
Sorry for so many questions!
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Here is a good place online to order a router bit:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_slot.html (http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_slot.html)
I think pictures describe the difference between smooth and leather T-molding.
http://www.t-molding.com/cart/customer/product.php?productid=3&cat=23&page=1 (http://www.t-molding.com/cart/customer/product.php?productid=3&cat=23&page=1) - Black Leather Tmolding
http://www.t-molding.com/cart/customer/product.php?productid=9&cat=6&page=1 (http://www.t-molding.com/cart/customer/product.php?productid=9&cat=6&page=1) - Black Smooth T-molding
Basically, the leather t molding is textured and the smooth is not.
For your control panel, you can use the same t-olding if you use 5/8" MDF instead of 3/4". Then you would use 1/4" lexan on top of the 5/8" MDF which would be covered perfectly by the t-molding. Also, remember to cut the slot in the 5/8" MDF off center.
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Well, I'm already using 3/4" MDF... I'd hate to buy another piece of MDF if I don't have to. What would I need to purchase to be able to use my 3/4" board? Also, where would I purchase it from? (and how many feet for each part of the cabinet)
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Sofa,
I've just cut all of my wood (Birch plywood) for my LuSiD based cabinet. I found out that you can order samples of different T-molding from T-molding.com! I urge you to do this so you can compare the different types. I got a sample of both the smooth and leather texture black T-molding and realized right away that the leather t-molding would be a better choice for one main reason. The smooth t-molding looked like it would show scratches and dents easier than the leather textured t-molding and I didn't want that to happen.
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Thanks!
I've ordered a bunch of samples from t-molding.com so they should be here in a couple of days (I'm guessing since I leave on the east coast near them).
I think I have pretty much everything figured out, but I'm still not sure on the router bit. I know I need a three-winged slot cutter size 3/32 bit from MLCS (thanks Octupus!), but I don't know which one to get. They seem to have different numbers and such? (one column says 1/4" shank set and the other says 1/2" shank set?)
Also, should I get a 3/32 bit or a 5/64? Saint suggested last night that a 5/64 would give a more snug fit.
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Regarding the router bit, the size shaft depends on the router you have. Some routers are not big enough to accept a 1/2" shaft... If you aren't sure about your router, you should just get the 1/4" shaft.
As for 3/32 vs. 5/64... the snugger the better, that is true. I used a 3/32 though and found that plenty snug. It was so snug that I spent a good deal of time cursing at how hard it was to push that stuff in (I used soap to make it easier to push in, but was still hard). I was routing wood though, MDF might benefit from the smaller bit since it isn't as rigid as wood? An MDF "expert" should know better.
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I like the leather T molding too. It just looks better. If it's smooth I'd get colors.
As far as how many feet, take a tape measure and measure the contour all the way down. Order about 10% more, or what ever is cheaper. you might get it cheaper if you order 50 feet, etc. You never know when you may need some more for a control panel, etc.
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LOL
it's funny the way people see the same thing in different ways :-)
The only time I would consider leather t-molding is if the machine was going to be on the set of a porn movie.
But hey, if it works for you, go for it.
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Perhaps scratches and such blend in better on the leather texture t-moulding?
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Can anybody else verify the 3/32 size bit? The t-molding.com site sells 1/16 size bits and says to use them for their 3/4" t-molding.
Now the t-molding.com 1/16 bit is $28 -- way overpriced.
Mlcswoodworking.com sells ALL sizes of bits for $9 (free shipping)... So thats where I'll probably order it from. Anybody know how long they take to ship?
So... for my 3/4" wood, should I buy a 1/16 size bit or a 3/32?
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I ordered the quarter inch shank 3 wing slot cutter from mclswoodworking. I got the 1/16 inch one and I was very happy with the results. mclswoodworking's web store is easy to use and I received the order fast. Highly recommended.
The only thing I would caution you on with the use of this bit is to be careful not to let the base plate of the router tilt at all. If it gets tilted at a slight angle, it will continue in that direction, making the slot "not centered" on the edge of your cab wall. I had this happen to me and I was able to repair the damge by making a sort of putty out of saw dust and glue, troweling it into the slot and letting it dry. I then ran my router through it again and it was good as new. But you would probably rather avoid the issue in the first place.
Good luck
Bumble
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Ok, I have owned a zillion cabinets and replaced some t-molding, a glared at other pieces of t-molding.
The black leather t-molding holds up like nothing I have ever seen. I have never had to replace that stuff, even on heavy use games that had been on route for a decade or more (classics, with current, or close to current tax stickers). While I have had to replace the smooth black stuff on minty warehouse games that had tax stickers on them that expired in 1981.
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Colour choice has a lot to do with your decision. I believe that the leather texture is only available in black and red. The smooth is available in many colours.
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I went with leather, really a personal style choice. Re the amount, as someone else mentioned, you should be able to estimate from your cab plans. Roughly, is your cab about 6' tall? going to do both sides front and back? That's 24' right away, add a little more for curves/angles/control panels...probably need 30-35'?
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Thanks for all the great suggestions everybody! It sounds like more people prefer leather, but I'll wait for my t-molding.com samples to arrive (I've ordered samples of black leather and black smooth plus a few other colors).
My main concern right now is the router bit. I'd like to order it within the next day or so, and hopefully it will arrive before I leave for vacation next week.
So far it looks like one person recommended a 3/32 bit, and one person recommended a 1/16 bit. The t-molding.com site appears to recommend a 1/16 bit.
Anybody else have any suggestions on whether I should get the 1/16 or the 3/32?
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Can anybody else verify the 3/32 size bit? The t-molding.com site sells 1/16 size bits and says to use them for their 3/4" t-molding.
Now the t-molding.com 1/16 bit is $28 -- way overpriced.
Mlcswoodworking.com sells ALL sizes of bits for $9 (free shipping)... So thats where I'll probably order it from. Anybody know how long they take to ship?
So... for my 3/4" wood, should I buy a 1/16 size bit or a 3/32?
t-molding.com says 1/16" (0.0625")
outwater.com says 0.065"
5/32" = 0.078125"
The moulding is 3/32" (0.09375") at it's widest, so a 3/32" would be loose, 5/32" would be snug, and ~1/16" tight.
I have cut my slot with a 1.6mm (0.063") bit and am waiting on the moulding to arrive. Worst case scenario it's too tight, so I just adjust the bit up a little and retrace the cut to open it up some.
Also, the complete assembly isn't $9, that's just the arbor and bearing. You need part #5341, including the tri-wing blade. $16, so still cheaper. A two wing blade assembly cost me AUD$37 locally.
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Thanks for all the great suggestions everybody!
I've ordered a 1/16" (full assembly, $16) slot cutter bit, and a 1 1/8" forstner bit from MLCSWoodworking.com. Hopefully I will have all the bits I need now.
Anybody else have any suggestions for routing the t-mold slot? Most people seem to say it takes a good long time, but my dad says it will take "5 minutes" to do the whole cabinet. Is he correct?
Anybody have any tips for me when doing the actual routing/cutting?
Thanks again!
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Anybody else have any suggestions for routing the t-mold slot? Most people seem to say it takes a good long time, but my dad says it will take "5 minutes" to do the whole cabinet. Is he correct?
Anybody have any tips for me when doing the actual routing/cutting?
practice on a few scrap pieces of mdf. both to get the depth correct and to get used to the router.
i set the mdf panels on sawhorses about waist high, then i stand over the router and at a medium pace i route all the way around the side panel. i concentrate on keeping the router level and close to the wood while going around corners. it takes me about 45 seconds to route one side panel.
dont stop and start the router midway, it will leave a wide spot.
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Yes, if you're using 3/4" T-molding, you'll definately want the 1/16 inch slot cutter. I also went with the 3 wing slot cutter from MLCS Woodworking (make sure you get the complete assembly with arbor and bearing), and have used t-molding from both t-molding.com and t-mold.com, and you just use a rubber mallet and gently tap the molding into your slot, and it's not coming out.
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Did you use any wood glue to keep the t-molding in place, or did it fit snug enough that you didn't need any glue?
Also, how far around does the t-molding go? You don't put it on the bottom, do you? I'm assuming it makes an upside 'U' shape on the sides (which accounts for two "pieces" of t-molding) and then 90% around the control panel (which makes 3 "pieces").
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Did you use any wood glue to keep the t-molding in place, or did it fit snug enough that you didn't need any glue?
No, no, no! No glue. a 1/16 inch slot will hold the T-molding nice and tight. In fact, you'll have to tap it in.
Also, how far around does the t-molding go? You don't put it on the bottom, do you? I'm assuming it makes an upside 'U' shape on the sides (which accounts for two "pieces" of t-molding) and then 90% around the control panel (which makes 3 "pieces").
Whether you go all the way round the bottom is a personal preference. I did, but you don't have to if you don't want to. I didn't use T-molding on my CP so I wouldn't be able to advise you there.
Bumble