Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Dougmeister on May 27, 2004, 01:31:02 pm
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1) Have been told that hacking a keyboard is a pain in the butt so I should look into buying a circuit.
2) I found these prices on the IPAC:
(28 inputs) $39.00
(56 inputs) $65.00
USB (28 inputs) $43.00
USB (56 inputs) $69.00
http://www.ultimarc.com/orderd.html
But cannot find the "KeyWhiz", which I've been told is cheaper (if you live in the U.S.) Anyone know where I can get this and is it a good product?
Thanks.
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http://www.groovygamegear.com
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Wow... that was quick. Thanks.
1) Is it just as good as the IPAC?
2) Why buy it? Will it save me hours upon hours of aggravation or what?
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1) I haven't had experience with either, yet. I bought an IPAC because I was already ordering a T-Stick Plus and a J-Stick and it didn't increase the shipping.
2) Any keyboard encoder will save you time/aggravation vs. a keyboard hack. If they didn't, they would't be sold. ;D
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Again, thank you.
I am on somewhat of a limited budget, so I may try the keyboard hack first (already ordering joysticks & buttons from X-Gaming on eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13716&item=3293610641
3) That's a good price, right?
4) For a novice with some help from a more talented friend , how much time should be estimated for a keyboard hack? A few hours?
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Wow... that was quick. Thanks.
1) Is it just as good as the IPAC?
2) Why buy it? Will it save me hours upon hours of aggravation or what?
1) The KeyWiz doesn't support LED's. Otherwise, they're both excellent products.
2) My keyboard hack works very well and was dirt cheap. That said, I'd probably never do it again for a signifigant amount of inputs. If you don't love to solder, don't even try.
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I love my KeyWiz. I haven't used an IPAC, though, so I can't compare them. It is so easy to use. The only thing you might not like is the hard switch to turn on the keyboard port. I understand the reasoning for it (to improve performance), and it doesn't bother me since I rarely have to plug in a keyboard, but others might not like it.
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Wow... that was quick. Thanks.
1) Is it just as good as the IPAC?
2) Why buy it? Will it save me hours upon hours of aggravation or what?
You can search the boards for comparisions, but basically -
KeyWiz supports 32 inputs, I-PAC supports 28.
KeyWiz has a more flexible shift (Shazaaam!) function.
I-PAC has USB support.
I-PAC has keyboard LED support
I-PAC has an automatic keyboard pass-thru, Keywiz has a switch to select between arcade controls and keyboard.
I-PAC remembers memory settings (if not using defaults), KeyWiz must have custom settings loaded from software (run the KeyWiz app at boot-up).
Beyond that, they do the same things -
As far as why either one if better than a keyboard hack - see
http://www.mameworld.net/emuadvice/keyhack2.html
but basically, a keyboard hack is limited to at most 20 (16 with some tricks, usually) non-ghosting inputs. These will not match the MAME defaults, and cannot be reprogramed for different applications. Also wiring is more difficult, and apart from the time and effort involved, there is a very real possibility of frying your computer if you aren't experienced at soldering.
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Thank you all very much.
You've convinced me to go w/ the KeyWiz.
What about that eBay auction I listed up above? Are those good prices for 2 joysticks and 20 buttons ($20 + $8 shipping)?
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3) That's a good price, right?
It's the same price as their website, and they aren't up to the quality of Happ Controls, but they're not bad, and it's hard to say $20 for 2 joys and 20 buttons is a bad deal regardless.
4) For a novice with some help from a more talented friend , how much time should be estimated for a keyboard hack? A few hours?
Depending on your skill-set and that of the talented friend, the KeyWiz Eco for $26.95 (?) has all the feature of the KeyWiz MAX (except maybe the keyboard pass-thru, and just requires you to solder your own components to the board.).
If you're dead-set on hacking a keyboard - following the guide I linked to above, expect about 1.5 hours for mapping out the matrix, 1 hour for choosing keys, and probably 1-2 hours for soldering (never got beyond choosing the keys myself). And 1-2 hours for wiring to controls.
Cost will be around $10-15 too if you have to buy wire, solder, and terminal strips (which I would recommend doing).
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If you feel you still need to solder something you can always buy the KeyWiz Eco. ;D
$20 for 20 pushbuttons with switches and 2 joys sounds good to me. I'm not sure what the quality is, but if you're strapped you can always replace them later when you have the $.
If you're just starting do yourself a favor and make your list and check it twice. That way, you don't buy something from somebody and pay to have it shipped just to turn around and buy something else from the same vendor and have to pay shipping again.
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Another note on hte KeyWiz vs Ipac, the Ipac is the only one to work with a Mac.
-S
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Ok. So is this all I need?
Two (2) joysticks
Twenty (20) buttons
One (1) KeyWiz Max
If I go w/ the cheaper version, I just need to buy some solder and borrow a soldering gun, right?
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Ok. So is this all I need?
Two (2) joysticks
Twenty (20) buttons
One (1) KeyWiz Max
You might want different colored start and coin buttons. You might want quick disconnects to connect to the joysticks and buttons. You need wire. You need something to mount the joysticks and buttons in. Computer - etc . . .
If I go w/ the cheaper version, I just need to buy some solder and borrow a soldering gun, right?
and wire and the expertise to use the soldering gun. (Also, I would recommend using terminal strips with the Eco Version, although that will eat up most of your cost savings . . .
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Ok, almost done ;D
You've convinced me to buy the KeyWiz Max instead of the "Eco".
I have the computer and am *this* close to getting a cabinet.
I can get the quick disconnects and the wire at Radio Shack, eh?
And I'm not proud, so I may end up painting some of the buttons, unless xgaming will sell me a couple extra for the Player start, coin buttons, etc.
(Edit: they don't sell other colored buttons, so if you know a cheap place for a few, let me know)
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I have some X-gaming parts and they are okay, but...
they don't feel very good and they make an echo-y and loud click. I would go with one of the bundle deals on eBay for the Happs stuff. I will find you a link. Oh, and painting buttons seems impractical.
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I can get the quick disconnects and the wire at Radio Shack, eh?
And I'm not proud, so I may end up painting some of the buttons, unless xgaming will sell me a couple extra for the Player start, coin buttons, etc.
www.groovygamegear.com also sells the quick disconnects and the start and coin buttons. Search the boards as there are some better prices than Radio Shack if you are wiring a whole cab, but Radio Shack will get the job done (so would a hardware or autoparts store as well, though).
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I have some X-gaming parts and they are okay, but...
they don't feel very good and they make an echo-y and loud click. I would go with one of the bundle deals on eBay for the Happs stuff. I will find you a link. Oh, and painting buttons seems impractical.
This setup is $36 (the X-arcade one is $28 when you include shipping), but has free shipping; you could get all Happ parts with better switches and choice of colors for a couple bucks more.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13718&item=3294291684&rd=1
NoBonus
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I can get the quick disconnects and the wire at Radio Shack, eh?
Radio Shack only carries these in miniscule quantities. Order some from Peale (the red ones); I think he offers them at $6 for 100.
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This setup is $36 (the X-arcade one is $28 when you include shipping), but has free shipping; you could get all Happ parts with better switches and choice of colors for a couple bucks more.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13718&item=3294291684&rd=1
NoBonus
Any good reviews on the Happ "Ultimate" joysticks? Are these any good?
Happ has at least 3 joysticks (ultimate, super, and something else?)... Everyone seems to really like the "super"...
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This setup is $36 (the X-arcade one is $28 when you include shipping), but has free shipping; you could get all Happ parts with better switches and choice of colors for a couple bucks more.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13718&item=3294291684&rd=1
NoBonus
Any good reviews on the Happ "Ultimate" joysticks? Are these any good?
Happ has at least 3 joysticks (ultimate, super, and something else?)... Everyone seems to really like the "super"...
Thought you already ordered joysticks?
Ultimates are generally the least favorite here.
Supers are good for Capcom fighters and games like Time Pilot that want circular motions.
Competitions and generally preferred for games that need definite diagonals.
While you're ordering the KeyWiz Max, you might check out the Progidy or Omni-Stik. These have a very short throw, but that's better for a lot of games.
FWIW.
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Oscar has one. Goto his website to read it (www.oscarcontrols.com I believe)
As for my opinion
Supers - smooth circles.. No corners. Great for time pilot / gyrus
Compititions / Ultimates - corners. feel each corner.
Compitions are better then Ultimates... But you wont notice a difference until you play with them next to each other. But I don't believe I have ever heard anyone say that they liked an ultimate over a comp when they where both there...
This setup is $36 (the X-arcade one is $28 when you include shipping), but has free shipping; you could get all Happ parts with better switches and choice of colors for a couple bucks more.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13718&item=3294291684&rd=1
NoBonus
Any good reviews on the Happ "Ultimate" joysticks? Are these any good?
Happ has at least 3 joysticks (ultimate, super, and something else?)... Everyone seems to really like the "super"...
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Ultimates are awful. I originally bought some and replaced them within a few months with supers. The diagonals on them are super sensitive, so it's tricky to go straight in any direction. (Play Venture with them and you'll see what I mean.)
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Thought you already ordered joysticks?
Ultimates are generally the least favorite here.
Supers are good for Capcom fighters and games like Time Pilot that want circular motions.
Competitions and generally preferred for games that need definite diagonals.
While you're ordering the KeyWiz Max, you might check out the Progidy or Omni-Stik. These have a very short throw, but that's better for a lot of games.
No, haven't ordered yet.
I guess my problem is that I don't have an opinion yet on 4-way vs. 8-way. I really don't think I'll care as long as they are of good quality, a decent price ($35 each is a bit steep for now), and good for the most number of games.
So which auction would be the best way to go?
Competition - $43.95
14 Happ buttons, 2 Happ Competition joysticks, $43.95 (free shipping)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13718&item=3293406451
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Super - $46.50 (?)
2 Happ Super joysticks ($23.99 + $5 shipping)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3294497809
have to buy buttons separately ($1.25 each)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13718&item=3294291383
= $29 + (14 x $1.25) = $29 + $17.50 = $46.50 (+ extra shipping?)
I'm not comfortable buying the Prodigy or Omni-Stik, unless you think they are better "all-round" joysticks and comparable quality to the Happs.
- or -
maybe the Happ Super would be the way to go. Where is the actuator located that toggles the 4-way/8-way mode? Is it hard to get to?
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No, haven't ordered yet.
Good, spend some time researching your options first and you'll be happier when you do order. Decide what games you play, what style of joystick you like, etc, BEFORE you spend the money and then end up swapping stuff down the line for what you really want.
I guess my problem is that I don't have an opinion yet on 4-way vs. 8-way.
Well, you can't play fighters or vertical shooters with a true 4-way. And you'll get frustrated playing Pac-Man or Donkey Kong with an 8-way. Depending how the panel is laid out, your options are -
Switchable 4-way/8-way joystick for player 1
8-Way joystick with www.oscarcontrols.com joystick restrictors for player 1
8-Way joystick and separate dedicated 4-way joystick (maybe wired to same inputs).
I really don't think I'll care as long as they are of good quality, a decent price ($35 each is a bit steep for now),
Granted $35 is a bit steep. These and the T-Stik Plus (www.ultimarc.com, short throw and even stiffer springs than the Prodigy) are the only "above panel switchable" options. You could get by with a Prodigy for P1 and an Omni-Stik for P2. Or if you don't mind reaching under the panel to switch modes, I recommended the Omni-Stiks, which are a lot less.
* So then you guys think this auction would be the best way to go?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13718&item=3293406451
That auction has a "BuyItNow" price of $43.95. You could order the same stuff from www.therealbobroberts.com for $37.60 ($1.45*12 for pushbuttons, $1.60*2 for start buttons, $8.50*2 for joysticks) and you could get whatever colors you wanted as well. The trick to E-bay is knowing what stuff fetches in the private sector so you don't get ripped off.
I'm not comfortable buying the Prodigy or Omni-Stik, unless you think they are better "all-round" joysticks and comparable quality to the Happs.
From what I've read on the boards, they are shorter throw and stiffer springs than the Happs, and at least as good if not better quality. (Most Happs joysticks are Industrias Lorenzo's, BTW, and the Omni-Stik is similar to a Suzo, FWIW). The shorter throw and stiffer springs should translate into quicker motions and greater precision, but without doing a side-by-side, it's hard to compare them, and it would probably be a lot of personal preference anyway.
* Or maybe the Happ Super would be the way to go. Where is the actuator located that toggles the 4-way/8-way mode? Is it hard to get to?
Nope, not the way to go - Okay, you get the newbie break here, but - There is no Toggle for the 4-way/8-way mode. The process goes something like this -
1) Remove E-clip holding joystick shaft to base (Hope it doesn't break or go zinging across room, never to be seen again).
2) Flip actuator (hourglass looking piece, right above the E-clip on exploded view)
3) Re-install E-clip and hope it doesn't go zinging across room at this stage either.
If you have easy access to the bottom of your joysticks, it can be done in a couple of minutes, but it's not a simple solution, and I wouldn't recommend it. Besides the fact that Supers in 4-way mode are not true 4-way sticks (you can still hit the diagonals) and don't work well for this.
EDIT: Didn't see your earlier post where you mentioned 2 E-bay auction, but Bob Roberts is still a better deal.
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Thanks. That's a lot to think about.
That auction has a "BuyItNow" price of $43.95. You could order the same stuff from www.therealbobroberts.com for $37.60 ($1.45*12 for pushbuttons, $1.60*2 for start buttons, $8.50*2 for joysticks) and you could get whatever colors you wanted as well. The trick to E-bay is knowing what stuff fetches in the private sector so you don't get ripped off.
But his shipping is $6 up to 1 lb, so other than picking my colors, it's really the same deal.
And do I want .25" or .187" Quick Disconnects? And how many, 25 or 50?
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And do I want .25" or .187" Quick Disconnects? And how many, 25 or 50?
You want female .187's with the red jacket (18-22 ga.) for buttons and joysticks, two per button or per joystick direction. Coin doors usually require .250's, but .250's in small quantities are easy to find at Radio Shack, Home Depot or many auto part stores.
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>Thanks. That's a lot to think about.
Of course.
>But his shipping is $6 up to 1 lb, so other than picking my colors, it's >really the same deal.
I would rather pick my own colors than use the colors someone else picked for the same price. Bob always throws in something free too, some Louisiana tradition :-)
>And do I want .25" or .187" Quick Disconnects? And how many, 25 >or 50?
Most of the Happ stuff uses .187, some of the joysticks use .25, but I don't know which ones offhand. You need two Quick Disconnects per switch, so two for each button and eight for each joystick.
Also - points of msg. board etiquette.
1) Don't change the subject line - Lots of us get E-mailed of replies. If I see "someone replied to Where to get a KeyWiz", I know what it's about. If I see "Someone replied to Thanks", I think "I didn't post in a thread about Thanks" ???
2) It's probably better to start a new post than to edit the previous one to add new questions. Lots of times people are replying while you're editing, and they'll read new posts, but might not go through previous ones.
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<shameless self promotion>Hey, I know a guy that has quick disconnects. Cheap, too!</shameless self promotion>
http://www.pealefamily.net/cgi-bin/closedShop/Item.pl?action=ShowItem&id=2&quantity=1
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Gotcha. Sorry 'bout that.
This is what I'm thinking now. I gotta save $ somewhere, so I think I need to hold off on the Happ or Omnistick joysticks.
2 Arcade Joysticks, 20 Buttons $19.95
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13716&item=3293610641
(2) P1/P2 Pushbuttons @ $1.79 = $3.58
(1) KeyWiz Max 1.5 - $34.95
(50) Female Quick Disconnects .187" - Blue - $3.49
(50) Female Quick Disconnects .187" - Blue - $3.49
(4) Pushbuttons (@ $1.39) = $5.56
= $47.58
+ $19.95
= $71.02
Whaddya think?
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(50) Female Quick Disconnects .187" - Blue - $3.49
(50) Female Quick Disconnects .187" - Blue - $3.49
The blue disconnects are not correct for this project; they are for 10-14 ga. wire. You need the red ones. Peale sells them $6.00 for 100.
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Thanks, Chris. Looks like Peale gets some more business!
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Gotcha. Sorry 'bout that.
This is what I'm thinking now. I gotta save $ somewhere, so I think I need to hold off on the Happ or Omnistick joysticks.
2 Arcade Joysticks, 20 Buttons $19.95
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13716&item=3293610641
(2) P1/P2 Pushbuttons @ $1.79 = $3.58
(1) KeyWiz Max 1.5 - $34.95
(50) Female Quick Disconnects .187" - Blue - $3.49
(50) Female Quick Disconnects .187" - Blue - $3.49
(4) Pushbuttons (@ $1.39) = $5.56
= $47.58
+ $19.95
= $71.02
Whaddya think?
The X-Arcade buttons and joysticks are also available separately from
http://www.xgaming.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=X&Category_Code=exp, Not sure how much shipping is, though.
My personal opinion is that this is fine if you very rarely play 4-way games, otherwise, if you play a lot of 4-way games, I would recommend spending the additional $17 for Omni-stik's
($13.50*2 - $9.95)
or the additional $13.50 for one Omni-Stik which you could mount in the center of the panel in 4-way mode.
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The X-Arcade buttons and joysticks are also available separately from
http://www.xgaming.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=X&Category_Code=exp, Not sure how much shipping is, though.
My personal opinion is that this is fine if you very rarely play 4-way games, otherwise, if you play a lot of 4-way games, I would recommend spending the additional $17 for Omni-stik's
($13.50*2 - $9.95)
or the additional $13.50 for one Omni-Stik which you could mount in the center of the panel in 4-way mode.
What do you think X-Gaming means when they say:
"These sticks can be used for classic arcade games, fighting games, 4 way classics, 8 way games and virtually any game." Can you "toggle" these sticks (with some difficulty) the same way you can the Happ Super?
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And what's the deal with the OmniSTIK "Basic"? It says it is:
"true 4-way and 8-way switchable with a simple twist of the bottom plate."
Is it really that easy? (I.e., lift the control panel or open the coin door and twist the bottom plate?)
Also, the ordering page on GGG says something about a "pre-attached mounting plate" for $12.50 plus $1 additional shipping. Do I need that?
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If you're going to get QDs, esp the red ones, you better order now. I've only got two packs of 100 each left (of the red) but plenty of blues.
Edit: gone now! All I have left is the blues, both .187" and .250"
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What do you think X-Gaming means when they say:
"These sticks can be used for classic arcade games, fighting games, 4 way classics, 8 way games and virtually any game." Can you "toggle" these sticks (with some difficulty) the same way you can the Happ Super?
It means they want to sell you a joystick. "Can be used" and "Can be used effectively" are often two different things.
I'm not sure if the actuator can be swithced or not. Nor really how bad they are for 4-way mode, but they wouldn't be a first choice.
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>And what's the deal with the OmniSTIK "Basic"? It says it is:
>"true 4-way and 8-way switchable with a simple twist of the bottom >plate."
>Is it really that easy? (I.e., lift the control panel or open the coin >door and twist the bottom plate?)
Yes. OSCAR had a draft review of the Suzo 500 which is very similar somewhere. Basically there is a square opening in the red plate on the bottom of the joystick that the shaft travels in. Rotating the red plate moves the square into a diamond and PREVENTS (important) the stick from hitting the diagonals.
>Also, the ordering page on GGG says something about a >"pre-attached mounting plate" for $12.50 plus $1 additional >shipping. Do I need that?
Depends on how good you are with wood/metal working. The mounting plate is a 5-inch square plate that makes the stick look like a Prodigy without the actuating lever, although now for $26. It makes installation super easy, though.
Other options - You can get a piece of sheet metal, cut a 1.75" hole in the center, cut a 4"x3.5 inch hole in your CP, mount the stick to the metal plate and the metal plate to the CP.
You can cut a 1.75" hole in the CP and bottom mount the sticks.
You can route a 1.75" by 1/2" recess for the "shoulder" of the joystick and cut a .75" (or 1-1/8") hole in the center of that for the shaft.
If you're really good with woodworking, you can top-mount the sticks in your cp and then use formica to cover the very top of the panel so the sticks don't show.
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Ok, how about this order:
GroovyGameGear:
$34.95 OmniStik "Prodigy" (1)
$13.50 OmniStik Basic (1)
$34.95 KeyWiz Max (1)
$ 3.58 P1/P2 Pushbuttons ($1.79 x 2)
$27.80 Pushbuttons ($1.39 x 20)
$8.95 shipping (US Priority mail, insured)
Sub-total: $123.73
Peale
$6.00 100 Red quick disconnects (100)
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Total: $129.73
Is there any way to bring this down in price at all? I can get the buttons cheaper at xgaming, but they may not be as good (?) and I would have to pay shipping.
I could skip the "Prodigy" and get 2 "Basics", but I really want to be able to switch between 4- and 8-way mode at least for player 1.
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(50) Female Quick Disconnects .187" - Blue - $3.49
(50) Female Quick Disconnects .187" - Blue - $3.49
The blue disconnects are not correct for this project; they are for 10-14 ga. wire. You need the red ones.
Not exactly correct.
The blue disconnects (at least the ones I offer) are for wire ga. 16 to 14. Whether or not they are appropriate for any project depends on the wire size used and how many wires will be grouped inside the connector.
Think of "daisy chaining" 20 to 18 ga. wire and you will see where these can come in handy. But again, it depends on the project. :)
RandyT
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Is there any way to bring this down in price at all? I can get the buttons cheaper at xgaming, but they may not be as good (?) and I would have to pay shipping.
Well, if you're going to get a prodigy, you might want to get a mounting plate for the basic as well (just so they'll look balanced on the CP). I realize I'm going the wrong way on price.
Otherwise, your cheap option is to use the Xgaming buttons and joys for 8-way games, and add a basic Omni-Stik for 4-way games.
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I have a set of the X-gaming sticks/buttons and they work OK for me, but they're NOT of the quality of my Happs Comps., either. The buttons work well and the joysticks do function acceptably in both 8 and 4-way modes, but are a real pain to switch, especially when mounted. I'm replacing the X-arcade joystick in my classic cab with a 4/8-way switchable model (not sure which yet)
If you're not going to play a lot of 4-way games (or all 4-way games), the X-arcade sticks should work well. The Happs comps. would work great in the same aplication IMO. It is hard to beat 2 sticks and 20 buttons for $26 shipped, however. You can always upgrade later.
If you're looking to save money, go with the Keywiz. I have an Eco in my classic cab and it was a snap to setup. I had it up and runnning in under an hour. None of the keyboard hacks I put together were nearly as easy or fast to get going.
The cab I'm currently working on (my powerhouse cab, fighting games ans such) will have Happs comps and pushbuttons and will be interfaced through a keywiz. (no offense to Ultimark, the Ipac is a dead cool device, but i can get the Kewiz for significantly less and it does everything I need it to)
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You won't regret spending the extra for a Prodigy stick. IMO it's the best switchable stick on the market.
-S
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Ok, last try:
X-Gaming:
$27.90 2 Joysticks, 20 Buttons ($19.95 + $7.95)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13716&item=3293610641
GroovyGameGear
$34.95 OmniStik "Prodigy" (1)
$34.95 KeyWiz Max (1)
$8.95 shipping (US Priority mail, insured)
Peale:
$6.00 100 Red quick disconnects (100)
= $112.75
Thoughts? Can it be done cheaper w/ a switchable 4/8-way stick? X-Gaming buttons gonna be good enough? Am I missing anything else (other than wire)?
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Ok, last try:
X-Gaming:
$27.90 2 Joysticks, 20 Buttons ($19.95 + $7.95)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13716&item=3293610641
GroovyGameGear
$34.95 OmniStik "Prodigy" (1)
$34.95 KeyWiz Max (1)
$8.95 shipping (US Priority mail, insured)
Peale:
$6.00 100 Red quick disconnects (100)
= $112.75
Thoughts? Can it be done cheaper w/ a switchable 4/8-way stick? X-Gaming buttons gonna be good enough? Am I missing anything else (other than wire)?
You're losing your player start buttons. I'm not sure how 2-player games will do with 1 Player using a prodigy and player 2 using an X-arcade. I think the X-arcade buttons would be okay.
I still recommend either using a Prodigy for P1 and an Omni-Stik basic for P2 (and buy the buttons rather than the X-Arcade package), or use the X-Arcade joys for P1 and P2 and use a separate Omni-Stik basic as a third dedicated 4-way stick.
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If you're going to get QDs, esp the red ones, you better order now. I've only got two packs of 100 each left (of the red) but plenty of blues.
Edit: gone now! All I have left is the blues, both .187" and .250"
Peale, no difference other than aesthetics, right?
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If you're going to get QDs, esp the red ones, you better order now. I've only got two packs of 100 each left (of the red) but plenty of blues.
Edit: gone now! All I have left is the blues, both .187" and .250"
Peale, no difference other than aesthetics, right?
Wrong - Go to Radio Shack or an Auto Parts store. The overlap varies, but
Yellow - Thick heavy gauge wire
Blue - Medium gauge wire
Red - Small gauge wire.
Most of these switches would want the red tabs, but the blue could be used were you are trying to run multiple wires to the same Q-D (like a ground loop or sth.)
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Drat. Well, not gonna order 'til next week at this point, so if you get any more, Peale, let me know. Otherwise I'll order from GGG or visit The Shack.
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Clarification - I meant actually go to Radio Shack or an auto store and LOOK at the connectors to get an idea of the difference, not necessarily to buy them there.
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Gotcha. Thx.
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I did just run out, but I ordered more.
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Cool. What's the best way to check next week if you have them back in stock or not? This thread? PM? E-mail? Website?
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Definitely website.
I *just* received a message from my supplier. They stated that they're OOS, and won't be restocked until the second week of June.
I'll post in the for sale forum when they're back in stock.
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Ok. Thanks.
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(no offense to Ultimark, the Ipac is a dead cool device, but i can get the Kewiz for significantly less and it does everything I need it to)
If cost is an important issue check out the I-PAC VE (www.ultimarc.com/ipacve.html)
BTW we also sell the Suzo System 500 sticks.
Also try the math with all the wire and disconnects vs the Mini-PAC (www.ultimarc.com/minipac.html) to be honest I have not tried this calculation!
Andy
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(no offense to Ultimark, the Ipac is a dead cool device, but i can get the Kewiz for significantly less and it does everything I need it to)
If cost is an important issue check out the I-PAC VE (www.ultimarc.com/ipacve.html)
BTW we also sell the Suzo System 500 sticks.
Also try the math with all the wire and disconnects vs the Mini-PAC (www.ultimarc.com/minipac.html) to be honest I have not tried this calculation!
Andy
Andy, are you still going to be selling a version of the Mini-Pac with 36 inputs?
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<Sound of Doug's head exploding>
Ok, someone explain to me the pros and cons of buying the KeyWiz Max and some quick disconnects vs. what Andy is selling...
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<Sound of Doug's head exploding>
Ok, someone explain to me the pros and cons of buying the KeyWiz Max and some quick disconnects vs. what Andy is selling...
Mini-pac has been discussed on the board before. The base model, you will pay almost as much as a KeyWiz with shipping, and you have to hack an IDE cable which makes it hard to change positions of the wires if you change your mind. The model with the wire harness is probably more expensive than wiring your own, you will probably have quick-disconnects which are too large in some cases, and some of the wires will probably be longer than you would prefer, but you save the time and effort of crimping.
I haven't heard of the I-PAC VE before. I would say it's very comparable to the KeyWiz Max, with the following differences:
Price should be a wash between shipping for the KeyWiz and buying the USB cable for the VE.
VE supports Keyboard LED's, but I'm not sure how you wire them up (bi-directional on 1A and 1B and 2A like a standard I-PAC ???, maybe?)
VE is USB only, KeyWiz is PS/2 only. IMHO, USB is more convenient for a desktop controller, and PS/2 is better performance-wise for a keyboard encoder in an arcade cab, but opinions vary widely.
VE has no keyboard pass-thru, but also doesn't need one.
The shifted key function works differently between the two units. I feel the KeyWiz is slightly more flexible for specialized applications, but it's a matter of opinion also.
Finally, the programming software is different between the two products. I like the set-up of the KeyWiz software and it has the ability to launch a program with a specified codeset. The VE's IPCD software is a unique concept in that you program the unit using an image of your CP. I'm not sure if it has the ability to launch an application with a codeset, but you could do this with it with batch files.
You can download the VE's software and test it out to see what you think.
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Andy
Andy, are you still going to be selling a version of the Mini-Pac with 36 inputs?
This is not completely dead, the problem is the complexity of adding it to the WinIPAC IPD software. But I might do a version with 32 programmable and 4 fixed inputs (what do I "fix" them to ??)
The reason for this is the IPD software already has 32-input functionality (for the I-PAC VE)
Andy
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Aren't there any decent, dedicated 4-way sticks out there? Every Happ seems to be 8-way and the OmniStiks you can toggle.
I'd get the OmniStik Basic for $13.50, but it seems that I'd need to buy the mounting plate for an additional $12.95 + $1.00 extra shipping to use that one. At that price, I may as well pay the extra $7.50 and get the Prodigy, right?
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Aren't there any decent, dedicated 4-way sticks out there? Every Happ seems to be 8-way and the OmniStiks you can toggle.
I'd get the OmniStik Basic for $13.50, but it seems that I'd need to buy the mounting plate for an additional $12.95 + $1.00 extra shipping to use that one. At that price, I may as well pay the extra $7.50 and get the Prodigy, right?
The best dedicated 4-way is probably the Happ Galaga/Ms-Pac stick, but that needs a mounting plate also. Seimitsu also makes a good 4-way (actually switchable) but I think you can only find them on E-bay.
The Omni-Stik in 4-way mode is a good option. Mounting was discussed above, and the Prodigy was recommended above also.
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As for dedicated four ways, Betson/Imperial also has a ms pacman/galaga reunion stick (short shaft). But...they also sell a Qix/Space Invaders reunion 4-way (about 1 inch longer shaft). Stock number is 47-9075-07. I imagine these could be mounted to a wood cp.
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(Sorry, Peale - can't wait 'til 2nd week of June - thanks for the warning that your stock was running low, though!)
Thinking about just getting the Quick Disconnects from GroovyGameGear, but don't know which ones to get:
Connectors
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Female Quick Disconnects .187" - $1.99
Quantity: 25 pcs
These can be used with the Omni-Stik(tm)for simple hookups.
Female Quick Disconnects .187" - Blue - $3.49
Quantity: 50 pcs
These can be used with the Omni-Stik(tm)for simple hookups.
Female Quick Disconnects .25 - $1.99
Quantity: 25 pcs
These can be used with our pushbuttons for simple hookups.
Female Quick Disconnects .25 - $3.49
Quantity: 50 pcs
These can be used with our pushbuttons for simple hookups.
Female Quick Disconnects .187" - Red - $1.99
Quantity: 25 pcs
These can be used with the Omni-Stik(tm)for simple hookups.
Female Quick Disconnects .187" - Red - $3.49
Quantity: 50 pcs
These can be used with the Omni-Stik(tm)for simple hookups.
Female Quick Disconnects .25" - Red - $1.99
Quantity: 25 pcs
These can be used with our pushbuttons for simple hookups.
Female Quick Disconnects .25 - $3.49
Quantity: 50 pcs
These can be used with our pushbuttons for simple hookups.
http://www.groovygamegear.com/cgi/surfshop/shop.cgi?ud=UkpEVFNOM0lYRSUlJSUlJTEwODYwOTEwMDUA&storeid=1&c=search.htm&categories=0023
This is what I'm thinking of buying:
$34.95 OmniStik "Prodigy"
$13.50 OmniStik "Basic"
$13.50 Mounting Bracket
$34.95 KeyWiz Max
$16.68 Pushbuttons (12 @ $1.39)
$ 3.58 P1/P2 Pushbuttons (2 @ $1.79 ea)
$ 1.39 (Yellow button for coin)
$ 8.95 Shipping (US Priority mail, insured)
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$127.50
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Thinking about just getting the Quick Disconnects from GroovyGameGear, but don't know which ones to get:
Choices look good on the joysticks.
If you are using 22 gauge wire, you can probably get two wires into the "red" connectors. Three or more would need the "Blue" ones.
So you shouldn't need many if any blue ones.
Sounds like GGG uses 0.25 for the buttons and 0.187 for the joysticks, but I would E-mail RandyT before you order to verify.
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Choices look good on the joysticks.
If you are using 22 gauge wire, you can probably get two wires into the "red" connectors. Three or more would need the "Blue" ones.
So you shouldn't need many if any blue ones.
Sounds like GGG uses 0.25 for the buttons and 0.187 for the joysticks, but I would E-mail RandyT before you order to verify.
They look good to you because I finally took your advice :)
1) So if I only need the blue ones (will verify w/ RandyT before I order), and each button needs 2 and each joystick need 8, I should only need 34 connectors, right?
2) What buttons should I include?
I'm thinking about only putting 4 buttons per player... that will limit certain games, but I'm thinking only fighters (which I'm really not "into" anyway, w/ the possible exceptions of Virtua Fighter and Mortal Kombat... do they need 6 buttons?), do you think that will limit me unnecessarily?
I was going to do: 4 buttons per player, 1 coin button, 2 player start buttons, and a couple of extra for good measure. Whaddya think? Am I missing anything?
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They look good to you because I finally took your advice :)
Fair enough!
1) So if I only need the blue ones
I said you would only need the red ones and few if any blue ones.
(will verify w/ RandyT before I order), and each button needs 2 and each joystick need 8, I should only need 34 connectors, right?
I counted 15 buttons and 2 joysticks, so 30+16=46 ???
2) What buttons should I include?
I'm thinking about only putting 4 buttons per player... that will limit certain games, but I'm thinking only fighters (which I'm really not "into" anyway, w/ the possible exceptions of Virtua Fighter and Mortal Kombat... do they need 6 buttons?), do you think that will limit me unnecessarily?
Well I would consider Mortal Kombat a fighter - It used 5 buttons, but I think later versions had a sixth "run" button.
Personally, I don't play fighters, and I ended up planning on 7 buttons per player (and dual pinball flippers) on the theory that I like the looks of the modified SF / HotRod SE layout, it will be handy for some PC and Nintendo 64 games (in Project 64), and I would rather have buttons I don't need than need buttons I don't have.
Again, though it comes down to - Are there games that you play (often) that only having 4 buttons per player would hamper you?
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Man, I should not have given up caffeine... yeah, I meant "red'... doh.
And my math was messed up, too. So if I go w/ 6 buttons per player, the count would be:
12 player buttons (2 x 6)
2 player "start" buttons
1 "coin" button
Thus, I would need 46 connectors, as you said.
Ok, almost done.
When I look at my bill, I start to wonder why I don't just buy a Hotrod for $100 and be done with it... what's the downside there? They are strictly 8-way joysticks?
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When I look at my bill, I start to wonder why I don't just buy a Hotrod for $100 and be done with it... what's the downside there? They are strictly 8-way joysticks?
I know the feeling . . . although you're only $27 more than the HotRod, but you have to buy the wood also.
Downsides - First, like you said - HotRod uses Happ Supers, so you're back to popping off E-clips to get into 4-way mode and then they're not really good 4-way sticks.
Plus the encoder on the Hot Rod is not programmable and also probably not as good as a KeyWiz or I-PAC. Won't matter much for MAME, but if you start looking at other Emulators, or PC Games . . .
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but basically, a keyboard hack is limited to at most 20 (16 with some tricks, usually) non-ghosting inputs.
deleted. Oops, i had a math error
You can usually get more than 20. Some keys are not pressed during gameplay. Also, you have polar axis on a joysick. Definately, don't use a matrix for a 4 person fighter.
btw, I just bought a Memorex at CompUSA for $6 (before a $6 rebate). I have the matrix layout if anyone is interested. I will e-mail the layout to the person that runs this site: (http://www.mameworld.net/emuadvice/keyhack2.html). I was surprised to see the size of the IC compared to the older keytronics I have used in the past.
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Actually, you get a lot more than that without any ghosting problems. It takes a rectangle of three (plus the ghosted fourth key) to create a ghost condition. So on a 8 X 14 matrix, you could have 56 non ghosting inputs (8 * 14 / 2). Of course a few of the hooks would be unusable because they are special keys (I.E. windows shutdown, sound controls...etc). I guess, the only reason I think ghosting would be a problem is on a 4 player fighting game. You may have to remap in mame, though I have never had to remap.
I believe on an 8x14 matrix, you would have 14 non-ghosting inputs and then you could double up the joystick directions, so 18 inputs if using two joysticks (without ghosting/blocking etc.)
I will e-mail to the person that runs this site. (http://www.mameworld.net/emuadvice/keyhack2.html). I was surprised to see the size of the IC compared to the older keytronics I have used in the past.
That would be me. I'd be glad to look at the matrix, but I see no way you get 56 inputs.
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Yeah, you're right, too early in the morning. 56 inputs, what was I thinking. I hit post, and then immediately realized my error. At least it wasn't a work e-mail to my boss :). I will e-mail you in a few minutes with the layout. The layout is not that bad for mame actually. But the price is right.
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Ok. Finally ready to order, but...
Where do I buy 22 gauge wire for this project? How much do I buy? Is 22 ga the right size?
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LOL...I'll have some more the same time I get the disconnects.
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Timing is half of life, isn't it?
I'll just scrounge some wire up around here. Thanks anyway!
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Ok. Finally ready to order, but...
Where do I buy 22 gauge wire for this project? How much do I buy? Is 22 ga the right size?
Where - Someone posted a link on the forum for a reasonable website for this. Not sure if GGG has it. Bob Roberts does. www.allelectronics.com used to be I think they discontinued it. Radio Shack if all else fails.
Amount - You need twice (power and ground) the distance from each switch to the encoder. (A little less than twice because you can "chain" the ground wires from one switch to the next in a loop). Plus extra for slack/mistakes, etc.
Size - Stranded is usually preferred over solid, but either will work. Also in case you don't know lower (numerical gage is thicker wire). Look under your car - Internal dash wiring is 18-22 gauge - The wire coming off the alternator is probably 12-14 gage - The wires off the batter are probably 2-4 Gauge. 22-Gauge is usually picked because it's thick enough to be easy to work with but thin enough to be inexpensive. 20 or 18 is fine as well if you can't find 22. Lots of people use DB25's for swappable panels and the internal wire for that is usually 28 or 32 gauge. It works (especially going to screw terminal blocks), but I wouldn't want to put crimp connectors on it if I could avoid it. OTOH, you could wire your panel with 10-gauge wire, but it would be expensive, less flexible to bend around corners, and wouldn't gain you anything (overkill).
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but basically, a keyboard hack is limited to at most 20 (16 with some tricks, usually) non-ghosting inputs.
deleted. Oops, i had a math error
And I wrote up the reply before I saw you deleted that. That will teach me. Posting the details anyway.
You can usually get more than 20. Some keys are not pressed during gameplay.
I said twenty non-ghosting inputs (usually max), details below. Of course, you can use all the remaining keys for Coin, Start, Admin functions, etc., if you're not worried about pressing them during gameplay.
Also, you have polar axis on a joysick.
Meaning I think that the joystick up and down switches can't be pressed at the same time, but I accounted for that to get from the sixteen to 20 inputs.
Definately, don't use a matrix for a 4 person fighter.
There aren't any arcade games that are 4 person figters. There are some console games. You can usually support 4-player 2-button games (TMNT, Simpsons) with a keyboard hack.
Now here's my initial explanation:
I felt the need to clarify some of the things in this post before others get confused. There is enough mis-information on keyboard hacks on the web already,
First you do not have to press 4 keys that form a rectangle to get blocking, only three. And while they have to form a rectangle, they don
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Ok, guys, I'm done. I ordered from GGG and should have the stuff within a few days.
Thanks to all for your patience and help.
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I'm wondering why nobody is mentioning the Ulitmarc T-Stick Plus for a 4-way/8-way switchable stick. People in another thread had me convinced that was what I should get.
Is this prodigy stick that you guys are mentioning better?
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I'm wondering why nobody is mentioning the Ulitmarc T-Stick Plus for a 4-way/8-way switchable stick. People in another thread had me convinced that was what I should get.
Is this prodigy stick that you guys are mentioning better?
Main comments I've read on the T-Stick (and Plus) said it had a short throw (good), stiff springs (not good, but personal preference), and very loud clicky micro-switches.
The Prodigy is supposed to have short throw, medium spring tension, and normal microswitches without spring actuators.
Apart from that, the Prodigy has an activation lever above the panel, so it's easy to look at the stick and tell whether it's in 8-way or 4-way. OTOH, the switching mecanism for the T-Stick Plus is below the CP and you lift the entire handle up to switch it, so it looks like a normal joystick when it's sitting in the panel.
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Andy
Andy, are you still going to be selling a version of the Mini-Pac with 36 inputs?
This is not completely dead, the problem is the complexity of adding it to the WinIPAC IPD software. But I might do a version with 32 programmable and 4 fixed inputs (what do I "fix" them to ??)
The reason for this is the IPD software already has 32-input functionality (for the I-PAC VE)
Andy
*drudging up another buried thread..*
ive been wanting to get a minipac too but i am holding back until i get some firm info on this. i have just noticed that on the UK page the 36 minipac VE listed as "Available Feb 2004" whereas there is no mention of it on the normal minipac page. is this just a case of an outdated webpage, or is there any news on this?