Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: rampy on July 26, 2002, 01:42:42 pm
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What are your experiences with different types of paint for getting arcade like finishes (for those who prefer painting to laminate et al)?
Specific questions:
1. what type of paint for metal hardware like coin doors, metal marquee holders etc (semi-gloss black? )
2. What type of black for the sides of a cabinet (flat, semi, glossy)? water, oil, latex, enamal, other?
3. One of the example sites described using grill paint and backing carriage bolts... has anyone else tried that? (don't have the link off hand)
*shrug* other painting tips? Planning on using a super fine/smooth roller for the context of the application (i.e. not spray can or professional spray kit)... although will probably use spray can paint for the coin door/metal pieces...
thanks!
rampy
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1) For the coin doors the "original" on most is a semi-gloss black wrinkle finish. Since wrinkle finish paint is not avalible everywhere I would try to save as much of the original finish as possable and then repaint the entire door with semi-gloss black. Other metal pieces (cocktail table glass clips, speaker grills, marquee holders, ect) are usually just semi-gloss black and CPs are usually semi or gloss black.
2) I painted my upright with semi-gloss spraypaint. It took a bunch of paint and was a pain but it turned out ok. I would recomend spray for an even finish but I think with the right roller an a good oil based paint you could get a good finish also.
3) Grill paint should work fine, there are other paints thay you actually have to put in an oven to cure, I imagen they would work well too. I actually powder coated my bolts so they would never rub off.
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what's this "powder coating" you speak of? I know not of this =P
Seriously though, never heard of the stuff.
rampy
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Powder coating is wher you take a metal object and charge it with high voltage (electrostatic) and spray plastic power that is charged the other polarity. Then you put it in any oven and cure it. Now it a plastic coated metal part. It take some special equipment to do it but the powder coat is bullet proof. It resists almost everything and if you scratch it you can eather buff it out or just put it back in the oven ar recure it and the scratch is gone!
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Thanks for the feedback jelloslug... although the powder coating is bit over the top for my application and some heavy duty paint is well within my tolerences =P
rampy
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Well, if you know someone who does powder coating for you.... it isn't that over the top.
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1) For the coin doors the "original" on most is a semi-gloss black wrinkle finish. Since wrinkle finish paint is not avalible everywhere I would try to save as much of the original finish as possable and then repaint the entire door with semi-gloss black.
You mean there is a wrinkle finish type paint? I would like to look into that. I heard that a close to wrinkle finish can also be done with normal paint and log fur rollers; is this true?
I would like a light to medium wrinkle on my control panel, which will include a metal mounting plate for a trackball.
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For my cab I used Rustoleum Painter's Touch Latex Semi-gloss black. I rolled it on and it turned out pretty nice with a kinda textured feel to it.
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Look here for wrinkle paint: http://www.eastwoodcompany.com/cgi-bin/sgsh0101.exe?&UID=2002072908211788&SKW=TSC15&FNM=20 (http://www.eastwoodcompany.com/cgi-bin/sgsh0101.exe?&UID=2002072908211788&SKW=TSC15&FNM=20)
Thats where I got my powder coating stuff too.
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Look here for wrinkle paint: http://www.eastwoodcompany.com/cgi-bin/sgsh0101.exe?&UID=2002072908211788&SKW=TSC15&FNM=20 (http://www.eastwoodcompany.com/cgi-bin/sgsh0101.exe?&UID=2002072908211788&SKW=TSC15&FNM=20)
Thats where I got my powder coating stuff too.
Thanks, I know where to get it when I start painting. :)
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Zynolyte also makes black wrinkle spray paint. It's Black # 1300 and the can is barcoded 036333013004. Manufacturer is Zynolyte Products Co. Inc. in Carson, California. Also, Antique Electronic Supply (www.tubesandmore.com) in Tempe, Arizona carries black wrinkle paint as their part number S-F227 ($6.95).
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I've found a paint that works wonders, and is far easier to apply than wrinkle paint.
Rust-oleum makes 'texture paint' and is available most places where spray paint is sold. Creates a nice, easy self leveling finish. I've been using the 'fine' texture paint (http://www.rust-oleum.com/Product.asp?ddf=197&frm_product_id=20&SBL=1 (http://www.rust-oleum.com/Product.asp?ddf=197&frm_product_id=20&SBL=1))
and it works wonders. It's not 'exact' but it's pretty darn close.
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Rolling is definately the way to go, don't do a high gloss super smooth finish. With a roller and a thick coat of textured paint it will hide a lot of defects.
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Rolling is definately the way to go, don't do a high gloss super smooth finish. With a roller and a thick coat of textured paint it will hide a lot of defects.
Thanks eightbit.... All of this would have been good to know in 2002, my cabinet has long since been mostly finished.
I think we need to find Ken a job, as he's diggin up some ancient theads =P (i'm teasing ken, you're insight is welcome addition to the community!)
*Shrug*
rampy
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Rustoleum Black (OIL PAINT) and a FOAM ROLLER............Comes out AWSOME everytime !
Just make sure you prime the cabinet first.
Must Prime :-)
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Rustoleum Black (OIL PAINT) and a FOAM ROLLER............Comes out AWSOME everytime !
Just make sure you prime the cabinet first.
Must Prime :-)
Doesn't that take forever to dry? Do you know how long?
I used black super satin paint from Mautz...not sure if they are local or not.
Good luck
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Be careful with oil paint and foam rollers (just make sure to get one that is for oil paint) ... i had my mini foam rollers adhesive that holds the roller to the foam (or vice a versa) dissolved from the oil paint.... but it did make for a durable finish =)
*Shrug*
rampy
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Not sure exactly but I painted it one night and the next afternoon I was able to give it a second coat. Looks great.........Just Make sure you Prime first
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I used semi-gloss latex wall paint for most of my Mame cabinet. I used black Laura Ashley (from Lowes) on the front, cp, and some other areas. No priming at all, I just used a very fine foam roller. This finish turned out really well. I did several thinner coats (I tried heavy coats on a few rear panels and it didn't work NEARLY as well). It seriously looks nearly as good as a hard laminate such as formica. The only way to tell that it isn't laminate is to look at it VERY closely. Of course formica or another good laminate is going to be more durable, but this isn't a huge concern for home use.
For the sides of my Mame, I first used white primer, then used a blue American Tradition semi-gloss. I don't know if it was the brand of paint, or possibly because I primed, but this paint was MUCH harder to make look good vs. the black Laura Ashley I used. It took several coats and I never got it "perfect".
http://www.newwave.net/~flanham/wlanham/arcade/finished.jpg
For metal parts, depending on what they are. Rustoleum flat black and semigloss black work awfully well. I also tried a semi-gloss "grill paint" for (ironically) some fan grills on my VR I restored. These turned out perfect (no pictures yet). Not as durable as powder coating but since I didn't have easy/cheap access to the equipment it was out of the question for me.
For coin doors, I had great luck with a wrinkle finish I bought at an auto parts store. I had to experiment a lot to figure out the right way to get a good wrinkle. Basically, do 2 or 3 heavy coats, get it as heavy as you can without getting runs. This might mean holding it up to paint it and then laying it flat so it doesn't run while drying. Then it must be in direct, hot sunlight to get a good wrinkle. Hair dryer never worked for me but I got a pretty good effect from one of those super-hot shop lights. Give it about a week to dry fully (dry to the touch after about a day).
http://www.newwave.net/~flanham/wlanham/arcade/coindoor1.jpg
All that said... I've been using formica a lot lately, and it is much faster to apply and the end result is the best, in my opinion. I'll probably use it for any future projects. After getting the hang of it, applying it is quick and easy. The cost is worth it, particularly if you shop around for good deals. I've been buying "scraps" from a local cabinet shop. I bought a 4x4' piece of white for $17 and a 1.5x8' piece of black for $15, both used on my VR restoration. Totally worth it.
Wade