Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: djflip on May 02, 2004, 12:44:52 am
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Ok....one thing I can't seem to find online is how to use both plexiglass and t-molding on a control panel.
Let me try to explain.
My control panel uses 1/2" MDF (and so I am going to get 1/2" t-molding). I plan on adding a sheet of 1/8" Lucite (or lexan) to cover the graphic on the control panel. Here's where the problem lies. There will be 1/8" of plasic that the t-molding won't enclose. I think it will look awful (I might be wrong, but like i said, I can't seem to find any examples online).
Another concern I have is that I'm mounting my joysticks with the screws at the bottom (so you don't see any screw-heads on the control panel). This will leave the left side of the control panel with nothing holding down the Lucite. Should I be worried and maybe add a screw or glue or something to keep the lucite down? Or am I being too paranoid about nothing important?
Please let me know what I should do!
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Of course, you could always get 5/8" t-molding, but short of that, I used a curved router bit to bevel the bottom edge of the CP a bit (in your case it would be 1/8") and painted the bevel black to match the t-molding. Unless you are looking for it you won't notice it. Mine is a 3/4" CP with 1/8" lexan and 13/16" t-molding so the gap is smaller that yours would be, but you get the idea.
If you squint, you can just barely see it on the front edge of the CP in this photo.
(http://www.mamenation.com/side-trans2.gif)
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I actually just bought a piece of 1/2" MDF to make my control panel as well. My problem I forsee down the road is covering both the 1/2" MDF & the 1/8" plexi glass. I probably will go with a 3/4" t-molding but then I can't make the groove in the middle of the 1/2" mdf right?
Is it okay to offset the t-molding groove, meaning will the wood be strong enough on the edge even if I cut the groove closer to one edge?
Hope this makes sense.
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You can offset the groove, just make sure the slotting bit doesn't slip (less room for mistakes). One idea is to get plexi that is a bit thicker and try to make it look like it should stand out. Best two ways: bevel the edge of the plexi so that it looks decorative, or buff it to a crystal finish. I feel the plexi doesn't have to be hidden if it looks "finished".
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Welp, it all depends how far you're willing to go to achieve perfection. If the combined thickness of your mdf and plexi is 5/8" thick then you can just buy 5/8" t-molding and just make sure that you center your slot perfectly or you could buy 11/16" t-molding and get yourself an edge trimmer and plane down the 11/16" t-molding until its perfectly flush. Edge trimmers are a bit costly but perfection never comes cheap. Both T-molding.com and Outwater Plastics do have 5/8" and 11/16" t-molding along with most other special sizes but unfortunatly some sizes do limit your color choices. Here's an edge trimmer. http://www.outwater.com/teecut.html
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If you are going to use 1/2" MDF and offset, shouldn't you be using 1/4 plexi...1/2 = 2/4 + 1/4 = 3/4" T-moulding? Am I missing something? ???
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I should try to find 1/4" plexi but I doubt I'll be able to find any...where I live in Canada I'm surprised I even find lexan or plexi.. ;D I'll keep searching...
I plan on building the rest of the cabinet from 3/4" MDF so I doubt I'll buy different size T-molding for the CP but that is a good idea. Maybe I'll leave the t-molding overhang at the bottom of the CP and trim it with a utility knife.
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You can buy offset T-moulding you know.
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Thats exactly what I was going to say
http://t-molding.com/cart/customer/product.php?productid=11&cat=4&page=1
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Sweet, offset t-molding who would of thunk it! :D Thanks guys!