Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: SirPeale on April 21, 2004, 08:43:29 pm
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Based on Bob Roberts plans, with some changes for using a PC instead of an arcade power supply.
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With this setup, it has eliminated the need for a power strip. Everything is already controlled from one switch, just flick it on and you're up and running!
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yes but for those of us who are not wiring guru's, (namely me) its much easier and safer for rookies like myself to just fork out 20 bucks and get a smart strip or craftsman auto switch that does the same thing. its probably not as clean and professional, but it gets the job done.
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Believe me, I'm no guru, but Bob Roberts made this easy with his schematics. The only thing I did was remove the arcade power supply, hack off the end of a PC power cord (not the PC end, the plug end) crimp on a 'U' connector, and hook it to a distrbution block (barrier strip)
I sweated doing this for a while, thinking about it one way and the next, and finally just took the plunge. Worked first time.
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Am I missing something here? Seems to me if your PC bios does not support power-on after powerfailure (or similar) you still have to flip a switch for the PC after flipping the switch for the cabinet.
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This schematic depends on whether or not you're using an ATX power supply, too. I'm using an AT. Should have posted that, but still...it would work in that scenario (with restart after power loss)
There is something I haven't tested yet, that's bridging pin 15 and ground on an ATX power supply. Should render it on all the time. That way you would still have the one switch solution.
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AHHH !! Very nice indeed to see this on-screen.
Glad my pictures helped a little bit. Or at the very least gave some insight on what you're hoping to accomplish.
http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=18453 (http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=18453)
I was ABLE to use an ATX power supply, and wire my cab exactly like the BobRoberts diagram. I just for the life of me can't remember how the PowerON pins on my board are jumpered.
I believe, when looking at the wires....its more than likely an unused wire on the Jamma Harness, as I'm using the Jpac.
Also, like mentioned in the previous post. The OS is DOS, which doesnt require a shutdown process similar to windows.
The main switch on top of the cab powered EVERYTHING at one flick. I also don't recall altering any settings in the BIOS for power features.
Still, it feels pretty good inside knowing you've helped someone out. ;)
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Actually, your setup wasn't even a consideration in the process. Sorry to burst your bubble!
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No bubble bursting going on in here, mate !
I just figured since I had posted about this 2 days ago with no reply, that you might have been off secretly working in your lab to devise a solution. ;)
We're already on the same page as far as wiring. Perhaps I was wrong to think different, or for that matter even assume your thread was in any relation to my wiring question.
It's cool though , no problems on this end. 8) I'm all for putting both of our ideas together and reaching a workable solution. Instead of using the SmartStrip, Craftsman or any other strip. :-\
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hey dont be knockin the craftsman!!! 8)
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I'll have to take some pictures when I finally get everything the way I want it.
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With this setup, it has eliminated the need for a power strip. Everything is already controlled from one switch, just flick it on and you're up and running!
What about surge protection? My understanding is that the filter in the diagram only handles interference, but not large spikes. Is that right? I guess you could always put a surge protector between your home power and this circuit.
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I believe that's what the fuse is for. You get a surge, fuse blows, not the computer.
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I believe that's what the fuse is for. You get a surge, fuse blows, not the computer.
Makes sense, as long as the fuse is small enough.
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Wow...can't believe I did that a year ago. Seems like yesterday.