Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: SirPeale on April 09, 2004, 03:07:35 pm
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.250" Female Quick Disconnects, red and blue, now in stock. Order them right from here:
(link removed, store going to new location)
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I just bought a HUGE box of those at Autozone. Autozone has all the Qd sizes, but unfotunately they only seem to stock one or two packages of them at a time.
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Got any of them still? I bought 100 of your .187 and they're great.... but I got a bunch of cherry switches that need the .250.... and I shudder at the thought of going into Radio Shack.....
Any stock? :)
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pm sent..... ;)
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Changed first message to reflect new product on site.
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Peale, is shipping included in the prices you have listed online? I started to order some disconnects, but when I got to paypal I realised that no shipping had been calculated.
-S
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Indeed! Prices are as they have always been - shipping included for all items. No matter what, or how many, you order.
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Can't beat a deal like that. I'm headed back to place my order.
-S
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Ordered some quick connects last week and just got them today. Very fast delivery. Just wanted to say I'm very satisfied.
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Same here. I got mine Saturday. I can't find them for anywhere near this price locally.
-S
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Still have some .250", but a lot of the .187" red and blue, available on the site above.
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A bump from the past. I'm going to start offering QDs again - I think. My old supplier jacked the price up on them by 250% or so. I have another supplier of them, BUT - they're not totally shielded, just the butt end. How important is total shielding to you people?
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Personally, I think full shielding is not necessary...
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Personally, I think full shielding is not necessary...
As do I.
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It's not necessary, but I have had better luck with the fully insulated ones staying crimped...
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Full shielding is important for 120 VAC connections, especially around things like backdoor and coin door kill switches for safety, especially when not covered by those Midway/Atari black plastic surrounds.
Nice for shielded distribution blocks or fuse blocks on power boards, though those are not too common and usually are just soldered raw open anyway. Also nice for lamp connections that can more easily be shorted next to all the metal of a coin door/mech.
Shielding however is not required on coin switches, joysticks/buttons or on ground connectors, like to ground strips on power boards.
So I vote both...no..neither...no.... humm, no choice :)
In summary: .250's usually I prefer fully insulated. .187's, uninsulated unless lamp connections, which often are .110 anyway.
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Entirely dependent on what you are using it for and where. Anywhere that the QD will move, yes. Anywhere that it is very closely placed next to another metal surface, yes. Anywhere it will be carrying substantial current, yes.
For regular stuff like a joystick, that is spaced out, and other non-immediately close to another metal surface low voltage situation, no.
That said, I tend to use shielded QDs anyway, mostly because I like to overengineer a bit and the cost difference on these is minimal.
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Keep those votes coming. Although it's pretty one sided at this point.
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I like the shielded ones better. A little more protection sure won't hurt. Besides I like the idea of only having to buy one version of the same size connector.
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How do you shield a single conductor wire? Do you mean insulated?
Shielding is like the metal braid or foil around a coax cable and is used to keep noise off of the signal...
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Yes, it's being used in that sense here.
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Yes, it's being used in that sense here.
What Chad said. I say shielding in terms of the vinyl being a 'shield' around the entire QD.
And it looks like I've got my answer. I'm getting butt-insulated, instead of total-insulated. I called my old distributer and they have no explanation why the price tripled on them.