Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: kahlid74 on April 08, 2004, 01:01:14 pm
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The CP I am designing is going to be approximitely 44" in width. The door to my place is somewhere around 40". The problem being that the control panel needs to have the ability to come off so that the arcade cabinet can be moved.
Instead of having to cut the wires and reattach them each time, or some other scheme, I decide to use Cat5e Stranded and solid with Keystone jacks. I know other people have asked/used this method before, and I was just going to post saying it worked very well. We are building a wooden box right now to house the I-Pac and to let the keystone jacks reside on.
The end result should be a stable box with 8 keystone jacks that you plug 8 RJ45 ends into. I will be using Stranded Cat5e for the buttons, joysticks and other stuff.
Theoretically the Cat5e should be fine, but my friend brings up a good point being the fact that stranded cat5 is very thin, and might have issue transmitting an electronic current. We will see when it is all done.
www.gamersanon.com/arcade.html (http://www.gamersanon.com/arcade.html)
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This has been commented on in depth within the past week.
Most people use molex connectors or even cut a parallel cable in half and reverse it so they plug into each other.
One other new method being tossed around is a flat metal contact on the cabinet and on the control panel having a screw with the wire hooked to it so when the cp is sat in the cabinet, the connection is made.
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cat5 jacks are good... I'm using that too....
1 hand operation... won't have a chance to bend or broke a pin....
but on the other hand... the other guy who did contacts is also very good if you have a switchable panel...