Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: chrisindfw on March 19, 2004, 02:27:55 pm
-
Quick and dirty...
What wood did you use for your control panel and/or Cabinet?
-
3/4" MDF, but I would rather have used ply.
-
3/4" MDF with Lexan on top.
Worked great.
-
My cabinet's built of 3/4" plywood, and I built my control panel out of the same.
-
I used 3/4 MDF on the two side panels and the shelf which holds the TV and 1/2 MDF everywhere else. This reduced the weight of the beast.
PS: I loved the MDF since I did not need to sand it before painting
-
PS: I loved the MDF since I did not need to sand it before painting
ditto
but I used 3/4 MFD of my first cab and I'm doing it with a Pine/Birch plywood this time around. 3/4 inch again though.
Allroy
-
3/4 MDF -- which seems to be the standard. It's easy to work with and strong. Perfectly level surface, so no need to sand. Takes paint well. Super heavy, so your cabinet won't rock when you play (but you'll need help to move it when you're done). Make sure to wear a mask when you cut it, and I'd recommend cutting it outside unless you have a dust collection system going in your workshop -- the fine particulate dust gets everywhere (including your lungs).
-
Steel. ;)
-S
-
5/8" MDF.
-
5/8" MDF here
-
whole cab including cp...
3/4 in brich plywood
-
I used 5/8 particle board on most of it. Next one will be MDF (probably). I do like PB, but if you hit it too hard it will shatter easily :)
-
3/4" plywood for the back part, and 1X poplar for the CP modules.
I used solid wood for the CP part because I have a rounded front edge.
Plywood doesn't work as well in that application.
-
I'm using 3/4" plywood. I would have prefered to use 3/4" MDF but I can't find it at either Lowes or Home Depot around here. MDF is generally cheaper when compared to a plywood that will give you a similarly smooth surface.
-
if you go 3/4" MDF, your will save money on your T-molding (if you go that route). All other sized are 'special'
I dont think plywood is as easy to cut the slot for the T-molding as MDF, but you get a LOT less sawdust.
MDF is strong enough. So you don't have to worry about that.
I went MDF and am happy with it. I didn't paint, (vynal) and I didn't have to sand before applying. If you go with a lexan top, I don't think it will matter at all. You might want to get the better grade plywood if you are going to put artwork between the lexan and CP.
-
I used 1,282 layers of tin foil for my first cab cp. I learned my lesson after that! On my next cab I used 1,283 layers.